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capillary tube vs valve


Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
 

In James Lerch's system he uses an adjustable valve to "tune" the
amount of cooling derived from an air conditioning compressor to cool
his cold trap... I have a similar cold trap (3 actually) that I have
not set up yet. They came with compressors, expansion chambers and
capillary tubes.

Should I go ahead and try using the capillary tubes or change over to
an adjustable valve? I would have to re-weld, silver solder the
capillary tubes back into the chambers to get them working.

Does the tubing aperature actually have to be changed if the
compressed liquid type is changed? I'm not sure what the original
refrigerant was but the system is fairly ancient. Most likely I'd
have to change refrigerent types to a newer approved refrigerant.

Anybody out there have any ideas on what would be the best way to
proceed?

Looks like I might need to start a "compressed gasses" group...

Ken Hunter


James Lerch
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Ken,
?
Interesting question,?unfortunately the answer has a whole bunch of variables!? So here's my stab at an answer.
?
The Cap Tube size/length needed depends on the following variables
?
Pump Volume (speed)
The type and amount of refrigerant being used
High side Temp / Pressure to get liquid refrigerant at the cap tube
Low side Temp / Pressure desired for cooling.
?
Since you indicate you don't know the original refrigerant being used, nor the quantity, ?its going to get a little difficult.?
?
So, the question is how to proceed with what you've got... Hmmmmmmm
?
My best suggestion is a source of R-22 freon (or its environmentally friendly equivalent)
?
R-12/R-124a might work, however the system won't get as cold given the same low side pressure.? However R-124a is available at any Wal-Mart or?auto parts store...?
?
In any event the best course of action might be to just pick a handy refrigerant and give it a try!?? Pull a modest vacuum on the system,??fire up the compressor and watch the low side pressure.?Next add JUST A TOUCH of refrigerant, and what you want to achieve are two things
?
#1 Liquid refrigerant going thru the Cap Tube (just listen to the system, liquid refrigerant will sound different than gas flow thru the Cap tube, I avoid attaching gauges to the high side of a freon system but you could do this and note the Pressure/Temp relationship and calculate if your getting a liquid)
?
#2 The lowest low side pressure possible, while still maintaining item #1 :)
?
If the above doesn't get cold enough for you, either increase the length of the Cap tube, or decrease it's internal diameter.
?
On my system, I used just a "Squirt" of R-22, a dang near totally closed valve, ?and my low side actually runs @ -10 inches of mercury as displayed on the HVAC gauge set during?"normal" operation.
?
BTW, if you have to guess on a Cap tube length, Guess LONGER than you think.?
?
Also, a trick you might try If you find the low side pressure is still higher than you want, gently crush the cap tube with a vise, in effect decreasing its internal diameter. This will add increased restriction to refrigerant flow, lowering the low side pressure/temp.? Only problem with this idea is if you "Over do it!" :)
?
Best of luck!? BTW, have any pictures???
?
Take Care,
James Lerch
(My telescope construction,testing, and coating site)
?


Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
 

Hi James,

Thanks for the informative post on the Capillary tube usage.

I don't know much about those things but I'd have to guess that the
capillary tubes I have are about 6-8 feet long (in a 3 inch dia
coil), maybe 1/16th inch OD and have a hole so tiny that I can't blow
air through them. I can take some photo's later but doubt that you'll
be able to see anything.

The 3 compressor units came on a frame with my 3 diffusion pumps,
valves etc. and 2 of thecapillary tubes were broken off at the point
where they were (looks like) soldered into the expansion chamber. I
haven't taken them apart to see what's inside but I imagine just a
couple inches of the capillary tube is sticking into the chamber.

Thought I could re-solder (maybe have to silver solder) the Capillary
tube back into the chamber and give it a go to see what happens. I
think I have a photo of the valves that also shows the compressors...

I'll need to find a set of A/C gauges to give it a try. Interesting
that you said just to give it a shot of freon... I gather the idea is
to get the maximum pressure differential across the chamber while
still delivering a compressed liquid to the chamber to be expanded.

I'll try to get some measurements of the Capillary tubing and some
photo's this week if it get's warm enough to get outside to the barn.

There sure is a lot to learn.

Ken Hunter


Darald Bantel
 

On Sun, 2003-01-26 at 08:32, Ken Hunter wrote:
Hi James,

Thanks for the informative post on the Capillary tube usage.

I don't know much about those things but I'd have to guess that the
capillary tubes I have are about 6-8 feet long (in a 3 inch dia
coil), maybe 1/16th inch OD and have a hole so tiny that I can't blow
air through them. I can take some photo's later but doubt that you'll
be able to see anything.

The 3 compressor units came on a frame with my 3 diffusion pumps,
valves etc. and 2 of thecapillary tubes were broken off at the point
where they were (looks like) soldered into the expansion chamber. I
haven't taken them apart to see what's inside but I imagine just a
couple inches of the capillary tube is sticking into the chamber.

Thought I could re-solder (maybe have to silver solder) the Capillary
tube back into the chamber and give it a go to see what happens. I
think I have a photo of the valves that also shows the compressors...
Yes - it is necessary to silver solder. If you just use a tin lead (or
whatever the newer version is) you run a severe risk of failure. Silver
solder done well has a tensile that is higher than your base material
where regular tin lead (I think the new version is zinc tin???) is
considerably weaker (about 5000# tensile if my information is correct
(it was for 37% Sn solder)).

I'll need to find a set of A/C gauges to give it a try. Interesting
that you said just to give it a shot of freon... I gather the idea is
to get the maximum pressure differential across the chamber while
still delivering a compressed liquid to the chamber to be expanded.

I'll try to get some measurements of the Capillary tubing and some
photo's this week if it get's warm enough to get outside to the barn.

There sure is a lot to learn.
Maybe I should introduce myself. I am a machinist with a fair amount of
welding experience that also likes to tinker. Astronomy has been
something that I have wanted to get into for a long time so I am
gathering information and we will see from there.

Has anyone here silvered a mirror and then coated it?

Just wondering how something like that would work out.

Darald


Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
 

Hi Darald,

James is the ONE to ask about silvering... He has done quite a few
mirrors that way and I believe he's made a few attempts at coating
them to prevent tarnishing. I'd bet that he can give you all the info
you need to Silver then give you his reasons for Aluminizing too...

Check out his web page. The URL for his web site is in the LINKS
section

<------- over there

Ken Hunter

--- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Sun, 2003-01-26 at 08:32, Ken Hunter wrote:
Hi James,

Thanks for the informative post on the Capillary tube usage.

I don't know much about those things but I'd have to guess that
the
capillary tubes I have are about 6-8 feet long (in a 3 inch dia
coil), maybe 1/16th inch OD and have a hole so tiny that I can't
blow
air through them. I can take some photo's later but doubt that
you'll
be able to see anything.

The 3 compressor units came on a frame with my 3 diffusion pumps,
valves etc. and 2 of thecapillary tubes were broken off at the
point
where they were (looks like) soldered into the expansion chamber.
I
haven't taken them apart to see what's inside but I imagine just
a
couple inches of the capillary tube is sticking into the chamber.

Thought I could re-solder (maybe have to silver solder) the
Capillary
tube back into the chamber and give it a go to see what happens.
I
think I have a photo of the valves that also shows the
compressors...

Yes - it is necessary to silver solder. If you just use a tin lead
(or
whatever the newer version is) you run a severe risk of failure.
Silver
solder done well has a tensile that is higher than your base
material
where regular tin lead (I think the new version is zinc tin???) is
considerably weaker (about 5000# tensile if my information is
correct
(it was for 37% Sn solder)).

I'll need to find a set of A/C gauges to give it a try.
Interesting
that you said just to give it a shot of freon... I gather the
idea is
to get the maximum pressure differential across the chamber while
still delivering a compressed liquid to the chamber to be
expanded.

I'll try to get some measurements of the Capillary tubing and
some
photo's this week if it get's warm enough to get outside to the
barn.

There sure is a lot to learn.
Maybe I should introduce myself. I am a machinist with a fair
amount of
welding experience that also likes to tinker. Astronomy has been
something that I have wanted to get into for a long time so I am
gathering information and we will see from there.

Has anyone here silvered a mirror and then coated it?

Just wondering how something like that would work out.

Darald


Charles Mitchard
 

Hi Ken,
a bit late but this site may have what you are looking for
Its also a great set of instructions on how to build your own cooler using old fridge pumps.
well worth a look.

Charles

Does the tubing aperature actually have to be changed if the
compressed liquid type is changed? I'm not sure what the original
refrigerant was but the system is fairly ancient. Most likely I'd
have to change refrigerent types to a newer approved refrigerant.

Anybody out there have any ideas on what would be the best way to
proceed?

Looks like I might need to start a "compressed gasses" group...

Ken Hunter


Ken Hunter
 

Charles...

Thanks for that link...

A lot of good information on the refrigerants but not much mention
of how to adjust or figure the capillary size.

I've got it bookmarked for later reference.

Ken Hunter

--- In VacuumX@..., Charles Mitchard
<charlesmitchard@i...> wrote:
Hi Ken,
a bit late but this site may have what you are looking for
Its also a great set of instructions on how to build your own
cooler using
old fridge pumps.
well worth a look.

Charles


Does the tubing aperature actually have to be changed if the
compressed liquid type is changed? I'm not sure what the original
refrigerant was but the system is fairly ancient. Most likely I'd
have to change refrigerent types to a newer approved refrigerant.

Anybody out there have any ideas on what would be the best way to
proceed?

Looks like I might need to start a "compressed gasses" group...

Ken Hunter

---
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arcstarter
 

--- In VacuumX@..., Charles Mitchard
<charlesmitchard@i...> wrote:
Hi Ken,
a bit late but this site may have what you are looking for
Its also a great set of instructions on how to build your own
cooler using
old fridge pumps.
well worth a look.
Hey if Ken starts a "Compressed Gas" list - let me know!

One can acquire a EPA 609 license for $15 + an online test. The 609
is required to purchase most anything other than R134. One place is


The overclockers site seems fairly accurate, except for methane.
Methane won't liquify at any pressure whatsoever at temperatures
anywhere close to ambient. Critical temperature (which is -82C) is
too low. Same for Argon and certain other gasses listed on
overclockers.

Large over the road vehicles configured for natural gas often contain
a cryogenic plant in order to keep their methane fuel liquid (and
therefore reasonably dense). Mostly local semi tractors in
California.

The following provides useful information about many interesting
substances:

?
Select your gas, and the site will regurgitate the facts!

A site containing an interesting critical point experiment:


-Bill