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Can't find any pix after an extensive 9-second search. Will take some later on this week. Guy Brandenburg, Washington, DC My blog, mostly on Education in DC: http://gfbrandenburg.wordpress.com/ My

Hmm. Mine doesn't seem to look like that. Have had zero problems with cooling of oil and so on. I could be wrong. WIll coat a mirror in the next couple of days and take photos. AND I will use a

Guy, I attached a picture ( build 248) of what oil vapor back streaming looks like in my chamber. The water got turned off to the coolant jackets and the thermal override did not kick in. The oil

Guy, I have found that to get rid of really stubborn contamination you may need a wet wipe with a little CeO and using very gentle pressure on a wet cotton rag. A few circular wipes around the ( wet )

Vladimir, Could you tell me the purity degree or lever the O2 and Ar gas you use! Thank's! Attila The Hun

Vladimir, Neither the type of glass, nor the date of the last polishing, nor the vacuum level, nor the oil seem to me to be the source of the problem. We clean the glass, which is generally (but not

Yes, indeed, lots of variables. What do YOU use for the final drying, Vladimir? Guy Brandenburg, Washington, DC My blog, mostly on Education in DC: http://gfbrandenburg.wordpress.com/ My home page on

Hi Guy, There are too many possible causes of that "weird residue": old glass surface, bad cleaning (both wrong materials and bad hands), bad vacuum quality, wrong ion cleaning.... What kind of glass

Question to all: How do you perform your final mirror-drying operation before putting that sucker into your backyard or basement vacuum chamber? In our plain-vanilla mirror-coating operation at the

If you have no other takers, I would be willing to assist as a co-moderator. I am a group owner or moderator of about 20 astro-theme Yahoo groups as well as a mod on Cloudy Nights so one more wouldn't

Ken, Yes, they got here. I totally forgot about them till you mentioned them again. I been making mirrors 100% of the time and have not even fired up the vac chamber in months. I am up to 18" mirrors

Thanks Drew... I never heard if you received the rotary actuators and was able to use them or not??? I have an 8 inch that's polished but not figured that I may send your way sometime, possibly in the

Ken, Hope your leaving G-job is on your terms and not forced. I too am looking at layoff ( due to someone canceling the space program ) or I would take the backup slot. Any time you need to coat a

Greetings... I have changed the availability of the Group's Archives to allow non-members to access the past messages, perhaps this will cause a bit more interest in the Group and lead to a more

Sorry I didn't see your question earlier. The coater is on eBay with no minimum and no reserve, ends 10/26 I believe. The link is in my other posting. Again, sorry I didn't see your question before!

Hi, Everybody, I just put my coater up for sale on eBay... No minimum bet and no reserve, so it goes in five days! Here's your chance to get the major components of a coater, probably at a low price.

Ah, cool, guess I learned something today.

I am having INFICON XTM 300 for film thickness measurement. The orginal iintruction manuals has been lost. If any of our community member having these manuals, kinlfy send me the scanned copies to me.

Hi Guys, Thank's for the answers. Yes I was a bit uncertain. I don't want to heat up the chamber. Just want to desorb the water monolayer from the walls. So that is why I asked the UV lamps. I found

Sometimes the DP temperature may be critical. You can not just loose the pumping speed, but also to get a strong oil backstreaming, so better to use the original heater. Usually variations about