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Got my ticket! 6
A week ago last Sunday took the Technician test. Passed it. Then took the General even though I hadn't prepped for it. Passed it. Got my ticket today. Please add my call sign to the roster. Dale Frye WM4UUB
Started by Dale Frye @ · Most recent @
It's Alive! [1 Attachment]
Good to see that you got it working! I'm adding my BCI filter in permanently. I'm hoping to get the rig back in time for Field Day. Jack, W8TEE
Started by jjpurdum @
It's Alive! [1 Attachment]
Good job Jeff! I hope that when I finish mine, I have the same results! The first 49-er kit that I assembled, also put out just under 2 watts. Then for fun, I put my HF-Packer linear amplifier (kit built) behind it and that gave me 10 watts out, and that made a big difference when I call CQ! 73, de KO8S, Karl
Started by Karl Schwab @
The VFO functions good 4
OK, hooked everything up last evening, nary a peep or received signals out of the 49er. So, got some time on our fancy digital 'scope here at work to check out the DDS VFO and it is working perfectly (J3 adjusted to 5V p-p) so I guess it's the 49-er. When I bought it off of E-Bay it was the cheapest one at a little over $9.00 and to be honest the components were not the best (some of the 0.1 caps measured out at 0.067), I have ordered a second one from another vendor - $13.00 this time and I'm going to go through all the components B4 I insert and solder them. Could be a wonky NE602 I suppose, I have a few in stock so I'll try substitution. However, that said it did put out 1.8 watts into a dummy load when keyed. Just gotta get it to hear something now. I'll let y'all know how I make out. 72/3 fer nw es God Bless de Wayne - NQ0RP
Started by wayne.dillon@... @ · Most recent @
Understanding the Mini-360 Buck voltage Regulator 2
Up to the time that I decided to build this radio from the March 2016 QST, I had never heard of the "mini-360 Buck voltage regulator! I have built a few electronic kits recently and this was a new one for me! I decided to search the Internet for more information on this component. I found a great answer on YouTube that compares this regulator to the linear 3 terminal regulators that I am familiar with. Give the link below if you are as curious as I was. 73, KO8S, Karl https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giGRrODKJSE
Started by ktschwab@... @ · Most recent @
New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio
Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the SoftwareControlledHamRadio group. File : /vfo-source-rev6-volt.ino Uploaded by : hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...> Description : Implementation of the Voltmeter function of the VFO. V1.1 which is a bug fix to correct the voltmeter display going blank when the encoder button is depressed. You can access this file at the URL: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SoftwareControlledHamRadio/files/vfo-source-rev6-volt.ino To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398 Regards, hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...>
Started by SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... @
Just finished and it works!
Not yet on the air but I have done the setup and got the 4 volts p-p on the output from the rig. The earbuds hiss. Now I need to set up the antenna, adjust the frequency constant and give her a try. I don't have a frequency counter and am not near my shack. When I get there I will use my old icom 720a and that should be good enough. the only bump in the road was learning the correct address for the lcd and figuring out the wire for the step changes in tuning was one pin off. I first tried using an rf probe on my old vtvm for the output voltage but did not see a voltage on the output. I switched to the old tektronics scope and noticed I needed quite a few turns to make the change big enough. It probbably would have worked with the vtvm but I am didn't have the courage to keep turning at that time. David Voit WB6TOU
Started by dvoit@... @
Pilot error? 23
This project appealed to me almost immediately after seeing it in QST and I thank and congratulate the authors on a terrific project. I am not a computer guy nor an engineer and am a complete newbie at any of this construction (call me a rube if you will, or worse) but I have run into problems and would ask the group for assistance. I had not had any major issues (I thought) building the 49'er with mods, and a generally smooth course in assembling the VFO. Problem 1: Never having used the Arduino before, I was pleased to pass the "blink" test and to see "hello, world!!" appear on the LCD screen (with the proper sketches uploaded). As to "polling" I puzzled over the connective wiring from my Keyes rotary encoder, but thought that I had it figured out until I could only see "left" on the IDE Serial Monitor, no matter which way I turned the knob. After trying various permutations of the connections to the J-1 header pins without getting this fixed, when I reversed the CLK and DT lines as follows: CLK > 3 (pin 22) DT > 2 (pin 18) SW > 4 (pin 17) + > 5v (pin 9) Gnd > G (pin 20) Lo and behold, "polling" worked perfectly with correct CW/CCW identification. I uploaded the VFO software, and there it was - working as advertised, with correct frequency changes, and correct function on the switch to change the steps. I assembled the units, power supply to both boards, VFO J3 to the 49'er new J1 (sometimes labeled as J1 but I think I identified it as J2 on one version of the manual (page 11) and J6 on the 03/16 version of the manual (page 6), ground to middle pin of block, R-8 vertical, headphones and key in place, and gingerly turned on the rig. The splash screen came up and looked good; frequencies changed and switch worked OK. Immediately I heard loud AM broadcast signals from 2 local stations - I mean really loud. Not being sure of how to deal with the T/R part of this, I left it unconnected. Problem 2: Although the display indicates that the frequency is changing, I hear no 40 meter signals beneath the AM broadcast QRM, and nothing seems to be happening no matter how much I change the VFO 7.025 to 7.29 mHz on the dial. It looks like there is no signal from the VFO. I tried to measure the output on J3 and see only millivolts on my DVM (I do not have a scope) starting at about 950 mv and dropping on its own, despite any adjustments to R1 (which does not seem to make any difference.) Why is the voltage so low coming from J3? Why is is dropping on its own? Problem 3: When I connect the T/R from the VFO pin 23 (labeled 12 on J1) to the 49'er remaining pin on the new block, I have no audio signal at all other than my own CW in the headphones. What are the correct connections between the new block on the 49'er and the VFO? I know that I have set the rotary encoder completely wrong by everything I have read here and elsewhere, but it looks like it is working. Is is possible that the encoder is manufactured in reverse? I re-checked my 49'er wiring, made sure that only 5v on the buck regulator was correct, retraced things, but obviously, I missed something. Can anyone help please? Thanks - Ivan - WC2S
Started by Van Hulm @ · Most recent @
Question 11
If you have built a Forty-9er, I'm wondering what the furthest contact you've made is and, if you recall, what was your RST. In the QST article I said that I was going to put my Forty-9er on display with a sign saying that it can be built for about $50. I'm sure I will be asked how far it can communicate and the more reports I can give, the more I will feel like I've met my goal. My furthest contact was about 700 miles with a 559, but I haven't had much operating time lately. Let me know! 73, Jack, W8TEE
Started by jjpurdum @ · Most recent @
Original Forty9er with New BCI Filter
Well, I finally got enough time to etch a small PCB for the BCI filter I posted here a bazillion years ago. Photo attached. Jack, W8TEE
Started by jjpurdum @
help---compiler error 5
I'm trying to compile controller software for a LDMOS linear. It uses a 4x40 LCD screen and I included the Liquidcrystal440 library. I'm new at this...any suggestions??. Mark NU6X Sedona, AZ Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from C:\Users\Mark\Documents\Arduino\controller\controller.ino:76:0: C:\Users\Mark\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Liquidcrystal440/LiquidCrystal440.h:95:16: error: conflicting return type specified for 'virtual void LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)' virtual void write(uint8_t); ^ In file included from C:\Arduino169\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Stream.h:26:0, from C:\Arduino169\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/HardwareSerial.h:29, from C:\Arduino169\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:224, from sketch\controller.ino.cpp:1: C:\Arduino169\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Print.h:48:20: error: overriding 'virtual size_t Print::write(uint8_t)' virtual size_t write(uint8_t) = 0; ^ exit status 1 Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560. This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Started by Mark NU6X @ · Most recent @
Arduino and Windows 10 9
Well gentlemen, I just updated my PC to the Windows 10 operating system; now something new to learn too! I am wondering, how the Arduino software for the 49-er (March 2016 QST build), and Windows 10 will get along? I am about ready to give it a try, but I would like to have your input. Also, should I program the Arduino off of the daughter board or on it? I believe I had read doing both in the instructions. One said that the PC could/might be damaged and the other indicated (to me), that it was programed on the board. This should be EXCITING, especially if all of this works! Thanks, 73, de Karl, KO8S
Started by ktschwab@... @ · Most recent @
Bento Box QRP - was "Pilot error" 3
Finally figured out the assorted issues and was actually not that far off after all. Was reminded that sometimes asking the right questions is more important than getting the right answers. I put it all into a plastic Japanese lunch box, and think that calling it a "Bento Box QRP" rig is appropriate. It may not be pretty but it does work. Pictures attached. You can also see Jack's BCI filter on a pcb which works very well. Thanks to the group for assistance, and especially Brian, AB6UI who Elmer'ed me in the best traditions of ham radio. Ivan - WC2S
Started by Van Hulm @ · Most recent @
Hang time from key down to recieve mod.
I have build the 49¨¦r, but have not ( yet ) the original Nano/DDS board avalible. I use another, similar, construction of a VFO and other software, and have made the 2 stage amplifier, on a vero board. And if works pretty good. But I have had som timing problems after releaseing the key to recieve; it took too long time! It is the time constant on the gate of Q1, that has to be changed in my case. I have replaced the capasitor CP9 ( 1uF) to a 47nF, and now I think it?s work perfect. 73 de OZ1QZ / John
Started by john.k@... @
connecting boards. 10
I am new to this and I am looking all over trying to figure where to put the wires from the 49er j1 and j2 connector that we added to the vfo board. if I read correctly it says j2 hooks up to j2?? and the other j1 to j1 #24 on vfo. but in the picture that I am looking at http://www.farrukhzia.com/k2zia/40m-modular-CW-TRX.jpg http://www.farrukhzia.com/k2zia/40m-modular-CW-TRX.jpg View on www.farrukhzia.com Preview by Yahoo it shows them on the j3 and another spot. please straighten me out Thanks Nathan K7NDM
Started by K7NDM.nate@... @ · Most recent @
Question of transmit freqency 2
The 49¨¨r is a nice, pretty sensitive, transciever. I love that it can "detect" the SSB stations also. But in the CW band you hear the same station on both sides of the zero point. Which side do you have to tune to, to get the right transmit freqency? 73 de OZ1QZ / John
Started by john.k@... @ · Most recent @
New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio
Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the SoftwareControlledHamRadio group. File : /vfo-source-rev6-volt-alert.ino Uploaded by : hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...> Description : Added input voltage cautions and warnings to the basic voltmeter implementation. To adjust the triggers for your application go to line 518 or thereabouts and edit the lines that start with #define. As it sits the voltmeter will start flashing at the rate of 750ms for a caution and 250ms for a warning. Adjust the #define line above the triggers definitions to what looks good to you. You can access this file at the URL: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SoftwareControlledHamRadio/files/vfo-source-rev6-volt-alert.ino To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398 Regards, hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...>
Started by SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... @
Q5 (D882) Issue
2.5 Ohm Resistor Stablizes Q5 Final... Noting D882's emitter is tied directly to ground, I thought it might ease Q5's burden to add a small power sharing/stabilizing resistor in the emitter leg. I cut the emitter lead short and wrapped it up along the transistor body (print side) allowing insertion of a 2.5 ohm, 1/2 w, 5% resistor between emitter and ground. Now, as long as the VSWR is good, I can transmit a steady 3 watt signal while adjusting the tuner. There is less heating at D882's collector because there's a small aluminium heat sink, but also, the small emitter resistor shares some of the power dissipation. ...now to make my first contact. .. _ Jim - AB1BR
Started by James Davison @
Implementation of the voltmeter option 11
On the VFO board are components R7, R8, and C7 going from the 12v bus to pin 26/A7 of the Arduino. The intent of these components is to provide a voltage divider so the Arduino can sense the input voltage, provide the required calculations, then display it. Knowing your input voltage is especially useful for battery operations. To implement this feature is mostly adding some code to the Arduino sketch and a little bit of calibration of the circuit. To calibrate the voltage divider you will need a voltmeter, preferably a digital one, and a precision screwdriver. Remove all power from the unit. Remove the Arduino and AD9850 modules. Measure the voltage of your power supply or battery to at least two decimal points. Three decimal points is better. Now the math part but it is easy. Take the measured power supply voltage and divide by 3.5. This will result in a target voltage that you will adjust the voltage divider circuit to. Assume a battery with 12.220v. Divide by 3.5 and that results in 3.491412..... Round that off to 3.491. target voltage = supply voltage / 3.5 With the Arduino and AD9850 modules still removed apply power to the VFO board. Place the positive voltmeter lead on pin 26/A7 of the Arduino header. It's the fifth hole up from the bottom on the left Arduino header. There is a convenient hole between the J1 header and the left Arduino header to place your probe onto. Place the negative voltmeter lead on the ground point near J2/J3. Adjust R8 till you get as close to your target voltage as possible. Calibration of the voltage divider circuit is complete. Remove power and prepare the Arduino for the next step. While the Arduino module is removed, compile and load the new sketch available in the files section. Reinstall the Arduino and AD9850 modules to the VFO board. Apply power to the VFO and the voltage will be displayed between the step increment and the license class on the second line and updated once a second. Till later Hank K5HDE
Started by Hank Ellis @ · Most recent @
Software Upgrade 5
I am trying to upgrade the software on the DDS to Rev 6.10. Am having problem with getting the right LiquidCrystal_I2C.h file to work in the library. I got this message when I tried to compile the program.. I got an error on this line " LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7,3, POSITIVE);" The error message is POSITIVE was not declared in this scope. Thanks for any help and advice
Started by dbarnes@... @ · Most recent @
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