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This is sent offline from the forum. Here's the offer. Send me an Arduino Nano. I'll send you one with the basic DDS VFO software installed. I'll check it with my VFO prior to shipment. It will be a

Jack; I printed the DOC file above and tried to work through that today; no luck, because of my inexperience with computer downloads, files, and such things. I was confused too, on installing the

The attached Word DOC file contains suggestions for installing the IDE and downloading/installing libraries. Jack, W8TEE To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2016

This is the basic problem, I do not know enough about downloading, unzipping and installing the required software for this project. If I did, I would have this project up and running, probably. 73,

Sounds like you need to add the Wire Library. This link should held. Arduino - Libraries https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries Arduino - Libraries

Attached hereto, are photos of my 49-er build and it is now ready for the software application. The metal was taken from a old computer desktop power supply case. I had to do some cutting and riveting

Wow! Thanks Jack, John and N0ngq for your responses to my (this) thread. I can see now, that I am WAY over my head with this required, downloading of software. For example, I tried to download the

Good advice! >>>> As a rule, if I'm buying something new on the Internet, like a display, I always ask the vendor which library the device uses. If they can't answer that question, I look for another

Also, it is common for the constructor that creates the LCD object to be overloaded. For example, the code from our project uses: LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); ?//

Another thing to watch for is the LCD I2C address "(0x27, 16, 2)" in line 99, I have some that are 0x27 and others that are 0xF3. I marked the address on the PCB on the ones I have. LiquidCrystal_I2C

Hi Karl The solution could be that you haven?t adjusted the display contrast! On the backside of the display, there is a small (blue?) potentiometer. You have to adjust this, when you see the 16

First, make sure you have the latest version of the Forty-9er software from Farrukh's site: ?www.farrukhzia.com/k2zia? Second, there are non-standard libraries that must be installed in the

Nathan: Are you getting any signal from the DDS? Do you have access to a scope? Frank Moskal

Gentlemen: With the hardware all connected, I powered up the Arduino from my computers USB port, and the LED on both the Arduino and DDS board lit up as well as the blank (16 square segments only)

ok I have built my radio kit and the dds vfo and when I power it up everything looks good. I can get the display to change the frequency and when I key it make a nice sound a bit loud but nice sound.

There seems to be problems with the encoder switch connection. I am puzzled by this because the schematic clearly shows the encoder connected to D4 on the Nano. The problem is that people don't seem

So I decided to check the actual current draw to be sure I had a decent choice. I prepared a 50 ohm resistive load for the antenna, plugged in my ear buds and set the supply voltage to 12.0 volts with

It worked beautifully. Thanks. However to get rotary push switch to work, had to change from pin7 to pin 4.... Now everything works. Tnx agn... KJ4ZI

I asked the same question when I was coding the warning system. As always in amateur radio, it depends. My SLA batteries fully charged give me 12.7v. Setting the lower limits to 11.7 and 11.5 would

My thought is that 13.5VDC is perfect for 2-3w output Brian. And to go easy on Q5, What is the output at 13.5V? And did yo use a heat sink? Although the D882 transistor could be pushed further in PCM