¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: Software not finding a driver

 

Thank you very much, worked a treat. Had to tell W7 to update" the driver, ran through without a hitch. I have another machine in the wings which, when I get to it will be a dedicated Linux box.
Again many thanks,? frustration over!
God Bless de Wayne - NQ0RP


Re: Software not finding a driver

 

On Windows you need to install the driver for the?CH340G chip that is used. FTDI changed their Windows drivers to detect and refuse to work with other chips. It could be worse. FTDI at one point actually bricked non-FTDI chips.

None of this is an issue when using Linux. The cheap Chinese boards just work.?

?c

?


Software not finding a driver

 

Good morning/afternoon all,
I am having trouble with the software finding/loading the correct driver for my Nano. Yes I have run the driver set-up in the Drivers directory of the Arduino software and the installation reports all OK but when I plug in the nano it says "driver not loaded"
I'm wondering if the nanos I bought have "knock-off" FTDI usb chips on the boards (only paid a couple of bucks each for them from china)?
Running windoze 7
Any help/suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Wayne - NQ0RP



Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

 

Always a good idea!

Jack, W8TEE



From: "Karl Schwab ktschwab@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: "SoftwareControlledHamRadio@..." <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...>
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

?
Thanks Jack, I just ordered that same offer on Ebay, now I have to wait!? I'll check them all first before I solder them to the PCB!? de Karl, KO8S


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:24 PM, "Jack Purdum jjpurdum@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" wrote:


?
I got these:




Jack, W8TEE



From: "ktschwab@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:15 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

?
Thanks Wayne, I am finding the same problem with the mini-360 soldered on my board.? I had bought two kits from Farrukh so I tried the other mine-360 out of the circuit and it read about the same as you are finding.? I'll try and find some more mini-360's and hope for the best!? 73, de Karl, KO8S







Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

Karl Schwab
 

Thanks Jack, I just ordered that same offer on Ebay, now I have to wait!? I'll check them all first before I solder them to the PCB!? de Karl, KO8S


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:24 PM, "Jack Purdum jjpurdum@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" wrote:


?
I got these:




Jack, W8TEE



From: "ktschwab@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:15 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

?
Thanks Wayne, I am finding the same problem with the mini-360 soldered on my board.? I had bought two kits from Farrukh so I tried the other mine-360 out of the circuit and it read about the same as you are finding.? I'll try and find some more mini-360's and hope for the best!? 73, de Karl, KO8S





Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

 

I got these:




Jack, W8TEE



From: "ktschwab@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 3:15 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

?
Thanks Wayne, I am finding the same problem with the mini-360 soldered on my board.? I had bought two kits from Farrukh so I tried the other mine-360 out of the circuit and it read about the same as you are finding.? I'll try and find some more mini-360's and hope for the best!? 73, de Karl, KO8S



Re: Faulty Mini 360 Buck voltage regulator in the nano-DDS kit

 

Thanks Wayne, I am finding the same problem with the mini-360 soldered on my board.? I had bought two kits from Farrukh so I tried the other mine-360 out of the circuit and it read about the same as you are finding.? I'll try and find some more mini-360's and hope for the best!? 73, de Karl, KO8S


Re: C8 Cap on on Nano DDS VFO Rev-2 PCB--Where does it go?

 

Thanks Hank, that is what I thought but I wanted to be sure.? With a close look at the bottom of the board, I can see where the two solder points are joined for the C8 connection.? Well, I connected C8, and I am unable to set the voltage to 5v on the mini-360.? The adjustment that I am able to get is 10.5 down to 8.3v with 12v being applied.? Soooo, something is definitely wrong somewhere.? Looks like I will be making another post on this problem!? Karl, KO8S


Re: New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio

 

The Arduino IDE places every new program in its own "sketch folder" as a way of organizing files. If you load up the IDE and click the File --> Preferences menu sequence, the first thing you see on the new dialog box is where the IDE is sticking your sketches by default. On the other hand, if you move Hank's code file to a specific directory you want to use, just use the File --> Open menu sequence to scroll to that directory and click on the *.ino file. All Arduino main sketches use that secondary file name.

If you need help, there's a really super book titled Beginning C for Arduino that provides more details and assumes you've never written a line of code before.

Jack, W8TEE



From: "ab1br@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio

?
Hi Hank, ?
Why does Arduino want your new rev. 6 file in a sketch folder and what is that?
I'm a newbie...

Thanks, Jim AB1BR



Re: New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio

 

Hi Hank, ?
Why does Arduino want your new rev. 6 file in a sketch folder and what is that?
I'm a newbie...

Thanks, Jim AB1BR


Re: C8 Cap on on Nano DDS VFO Rev-2 PCB--Where does it go?

 

I see where there can be some confusion. A picture is worth if not a thousand words then at least a couple forum posts.


On page 4 of the VFO assembly manual is a photo of the populated VFO board. The C8 electrolytic fits just below the mini-360 using the right two holes.


If you were using a LM7805 voltage regulator then the voltage regulator would mount on those three holes. Then the C8 cap would mount on the two holes that are inline with the mini-360 output holes. The cap would then occupy the space where the mini-360 would be.


Clear as mud?


Till later

Hank K5HDE


C8 Cap on on Nano DDS VFO Rev-2 PCB--Where does it go?

 

I have populated the Nano DDS VFO PCB that I?have from K2ZIA with the last component remaining; the C8 capacitor 100u-25v.? In looking at the?PCB outline for the placement of C8, I see two outlines for it and solder pads for it under?or nearly so, the mini-360.? Not wanting to make any mistakes this far into the build, could someone please clarify?the?connection points for C8 for?me???After?I accomplish this, I will be able to continue on with the project.? 73, de Karl, KO8S ?


Re: Implementation of the voltmeter option

 

I think your values are fine. Use symbolic constants for the voltages at the top of the source file. Then, if someone is unhappy with the voltages, it's easy to change them. It's important that, even if you're driving the rig with an external power supply, don't let the voltage at Hank's measuring points go above 12V. I think I recall someone saying they fried the final when they ramped up the voltage.

Jack, W8TEE



From: "HankEllis@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 12:25 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Implementation of the voltmeter option

?
This first version of the voltmeter just displays the voltage. In the next version I'd like to include undervolt and overvolt cautions and warnings.

I'd like to get a consensus from the group as to what the triggers should be. This is outside my experience level so some input from the rigs' designers and those that have built similar QRP units in the past would be helpful.

For example,?assuming a 12.0v power supply, the display would give a caution if the voltage drops to 11.5v or rises to 12.5v. If the voltage further drops to 11.3v or rises above 12.8v then the display would give a warning.

Help me nail down these numbers.

Till later
Hank K5HDE



Re: Implementation of the voltmeter option

 

This first version of the voltmeter just displays the voltage. In the next version I'd like to include undervolt and overvolt cautions and warnings.


I'd like to get a consensus from the group as to what the triggers should be. This is outside my experience level so some input from the rigs' designers and those that have built similar QRP units in the past would be helpful.


For example,?assuming a 12.0v power supply, the display would give a caution if the voltage drops to 11.5v or rises to 12.5v. If the voltage further drops to 11.3v or rises above 12.8v then the display would give a warning.


Help me nail down these numbers.


Till later

Hank K5HDE


Implementation of the voltmeter option

 

On the VFO board are components R7, R8, and C7 going from the 12v bus to pin 26/A7 of the Arduino. The intent of these components is to provide a voltage divider so the Arduino can sense the input voltage, provide the required calculations, then display it. Knowing your input voltage is especially useful for battery operations. To implement this feature is mostly adding some code to the Arduino sketch and a little bit of calibration of the circuit.


To calibrate the voltage divider you will need a voltmeter, preferably a digital one, and a precision screwdriver. Remove all power from the unit. Remove the Arduino and AD9850 modules. Measure the voltage of your power supply or battery to at least two decimal points. Three decimal points is better.


Now the math part but it is easy. Take the measured power supply voltage and divide by 3.5. This will result in a target voltage that you will adjust the voltage divider circuit to. Assume a battery with 12.220v. Divide by 3.5 and that results in 3.491412..... Round that off to 3.491.
target voltage = supply voltage / 3.5


With the Arduino and AD9850 modules still removed apply power to the VFO board. Place the positive voltmeter lead on pin 26/A7 of the Arduino header. It's the fifth hole up from the bottom on the left Arduino header. There is a convenient hole between the J1 header and the left Arduino header to place your probe onto. Place the negative voltmeter lead on the ground point near J2/J3. Adjust R8 till you get as close to your target voltage as possible. Calibration of the voltage divider circuit is complete. Remove power and prepare the Arduino for the next step.


While the Arduino module is removed, compile and load the new sketch available in the files section. Reinstall the Arduino and AD9850 modules to the VFO board. Apply power to the VFO and the voltage will be displayed between the step increment and the license class on the second line and updated once a second.


Till later

Hank K5HDE






New file uploaded to SoftwareControlledHamRadio

 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the SoftwareControlledHamRadio
group.


File : /vfo-source-rev6-volt.ino
Uploaded by : hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...>
Description : Modification to base VFO code to implement the voltmeter option.


You can access this file at the URL:



To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:



Regards,


hankellis1958 <HankEllis@...>


Re: part number for the 22 uH indutor

 

Hi Don, ?I have your address as:

N5DM?USA flag?USA

Donald J Mayhall, II
835 Merridel
Houston, TX 77024
USA



Re: Pilot error?

Bo Barry
 

Use J3, not J2 and adjust to about 12v on AC voltmeter. DC reads about 7 volts. The output should be set to 4 volts peak to peak AC with a scope. Cheap voltmeter reading should do. I may have read a bit more than 12.
Technically it should read 7 plus..707x4.0. ? ?

Hope that helps.
I'm working on the needed filter.

Good luck

Bo W4GHV?


On Sunday, June 12, 2016, xeragi@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
?

This project appealed to me almost immediately after seeing it in QST and I thank and congratulate the authors on a terrific project.? I am not a computer guy nor an engineer and am a complete newbie at any of this construction (call me a rube if you will, or worse) but I have run into problems and would ask the group for assistance.


I had not had any major issues (I thought) building the 49'er with mods, and a generally smooth course in assembling the VFO.?


Problem 1: ?Never having used the Arduino before, I was pleased to pass the "blink" test and to see "hello, world!!" appear on the LCD screen (with the proper sketches uploaded).? As to "polling" I puzzled over the connective wiring from my Keyes rotary encoder, but thought that I had it figured out until I could only see "left" on the IDE Serial Monitor, no matter which way I turned the knob. After trying various permutations of the connections to the J-1 header pins without getting this fixed, when I reversed the CLK and DT lines as follows:

CLK > 3 (pin 22)

DT ? > 2 (pin 18)

SW ?> 4 (pin 17)

+ ? ? > 5v (pin 9)

Gnd > G (pin 20)


Lo and behold, "polling" worked perfectly with correct CW/CCW identification.


I uploaded the VFO software, and there it was - working as advertised, with correct frequency changes, and correct function on the switch to change the steps.


I assembled the units, power supply to both boards, VFO J3 to the 49'er new J1 (sometimes labeled as J1 but I think I identified it as J2 on one version of the manual (page 11) and J6 on the 03/16 version of the manual (page 6), ground to middle pin of block, R-8 vertical, headphones and key in place, and gingerly turned on the rig.? The splash screen came up and looked good; frequencies changed and switch worked OK.? Immediately I heard loud AM broadcast signals from 2 local stations - I mean really loud.? Not being sure of how to deal with the T/R part of this, I left it unconnected.


Problem 2: ?Although the display indicates that the frequency is changing, I hear no 40 meter signals beneath the AM broadcast QRM, and nothing seems to be happening no matter how much I change the VFO 7.025 to 7.29 mHz on the dial.? It looks like there is no signal from the VFO.


I tried to measure the output on J3 and see only millivolts on my DVM (I do not have a scope) starting at about 950 mv and dropping on its own, despite any adjustments to R1 (which does not seem to make any difference.) ?Why is the voltage so low coming from J3?? Why is is dropping on its own?


Problem 3: ?When I connect the T/R from the VFO pin 23 (labeled 12 on J1) to the 49'er remaining pin on the new block, I have no audio signal at all other than my own CW in the headphones.? What are the correct connections between the new block on the 49'er and the VFO?


I know that I have set the rotary encoder completely wrong by everything I have read here and elsewhere, but it looks like it is working.? Is is possible that the encoder is manufactured in reverse?


I re-checked my 49'er wiring, made sure that only 5v on the buck regulator was correct, retraced things, but obviously, I missed something.


Can anyone help please?


Thanks - Ivan - WC2S




--
Note: I prefer THIS email address over my? e-mail address
'Bo' Barry
Assoc. Prof. Emeritus!! (=free parking @ UNCC)
Engineering? Technology Dept.
Univ. of NC @Charlotte
Charlotte, NC 28223
(704) 792-7427 cell #


Re: part number for the 22 uH indutor

Bo Barry
 

Debco

On Sunday, June 12, 2016, bnwidmaier1@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:

?

Does any one have a part # (from Digikey or another vendor) ?for the 22 uH inductor for the mod to the Forty 9er. ?

I do not believe that it was included with Farrukh's DDS parts or the Fory 9er kit.


73,


Bob Widmaier?


K3jop



--
Note: I prefer THIS email address over my? e-mail address
'Bo' Barry
Assoc. Prof. Emeritus!! (=free parking @ UNCC)
Engineering? Technology Dept.
Univ. of NC @Charlotte
Charlotte, NC 28223
(704) 792-7427 cell #


Re: part number for the 22 uH indutor

Bo Barry
 

I got all the parts needed from a small company named Debco I think. Cheap and fast.

On Sunday, June 12, 2016, bnwidmaier1@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:

?

Does any one have a part # (from Digikey or another vendor) ?for the 22 uH inductor for the mod to the Forty 9er. ?

I do not believe that it was included with Farrukh's DDS parts or the Fory 9er kit.


73,


Bob Widmaier?


K3jop



--
Note: I prefer THIS email address over my? e-mail address
'Bo' Barry
Assoc. Prof. Emeritus!! (=free parking @ UNCC)
Engineering? Technology Dept.
Univ. of NC @Charlotte
Charlotte, NC 28223
(704) 792-7427 cell #