Re: Low Audio, CP2 Proximity sensitivity
CP2 is part of the audio amp. Is there any chance you have the polarity reversed?
Jack, W8TEE
From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2016 12:47 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Low Audio, CP2 Proximity sensitivity
?
This is a corrected message.. Disregard my previous...
Hi all,
After connecting and powering up the 49'r and dds-vfo combo I've discovered a problem...
Been checking out an issue with very low audio on my 49'r. I'm feeding it with a signal from my HP8640B and I can hear the signal and tune up and down from center with is about 30hz off right now. Problem I have is it's real low in headphones (tried two sets).
I've been double checking components and found that CP2 is real sensitive to hovering my finger nearby. When I do, I get a much higher almost overdriven like audio level with my SG tone and what appears to be a mixing of the SG signal and almost a hum sound. By tuning, I'm able to get the SG tone and higher audio to resonate together.. Not sure what's going on..
Using a Elenco XP-752A for the supply power at 12V even and a couple amps.
Not sure where to look.. Mods all went well, everything else from what I can see is in correctly from what I can see.. Just real low audio.. Connecting to an antenna at this point doesn't get me anything.. The signal generator tone gets in but not to the point that it's booming..
Steve NS3L
|
Low Audio, CP2 Proximity sensitivity
This is a corrected message.. Disregard my previous...
Hi all,
After connecting and powering up the 49'r and dds-vfo combo I've discovered a problem...
Been checking out an issue with very low audio on my 49'r. I'm feeding it with a signal from my HP8640B and I can hear the signal and tune up and down from center with is about 30hz off right now. Problem I have is it's real low in headphones (tried two sets).
I've been double checking components and found that CP2 is real sensitive to hovering my finger nearby. When I do, I get a much higher almost overdriven like audio level with my SG tone and what appears to be a mixing of the SG signal and almost a hum sound. By tuning, I'm able to get the SG tone and higher audio to resonate together.. Not sure what's going on..
Using a Elenco XP-752A for the supply power at 12V even and a couple amps.
Not sure where to look.. Mods all went well, everything else from what I can see is in correctly from what I can see.. Just real low audio.. Connecting to an antenna at this point doesn't get me anything.. The signal generator tone gets in but not to the point that it's booming..
Steve NS3L
|
Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
No, I followed what you were saying, but the 12V does stress the voltage regulators that are on board. Yeah, memorizing is a lot different than learning.
Jack, W8TEE
From: "Aaron Heverin aaronhev@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2016 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] winding torrids and red wine don't mix
?
Hi Jack... and thanks for the reply.?
Just so there's no confusion, the Mini-360 bucking module has indeed been adjusted for a solid 5v as per Farrukh's instructions. The "issue" I was having - if you want to call it that - was the adjustment of R1 on the DDS board. I was supposed to set a peak-to-peak voltage of 4 volts to J3 on the board. So although I used an RF-probe to make this adjustment to 4 volts on R1, Dennis informed me that the probe actually gave me an RMS value. I need a peak-to-peak voltage. As Homer would say... "DOH!"
So guys... anyone going for their Extra and simply thinks memorizing the question pool because you're NEVER going to use the math jibberish as long as you live... FAIL! 4 volts RMS x 1.414 = 5.656. Multiply this by 2 to get peak-to-peak and you get 11.3! So if there was any wonder why my D882 smoked to hell... here you go.?
Thanks, Dennis for helping me remember what I should have never forgotten!
Aaron - N2HTL
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Re: QRP Quarterly Article
I don't have my copy yet, but good to know it's out. Actually, when I get the software done for the antenna analyzer, I'll integrate that into the 49er and post the file. My guess is Tuesday of next week and this project should be done. If you want to, just look for the code that changes the increment value and work it in there.
Jack, W8TEE
From: "dfine01@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2016 10:09 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] QRP Quarterly Article
?
Nice article in the new issue of QRP Quarterly, Jack.? Where do we slip that code into the 49er project code to take advantage of the quick QSY feature.
Dave, W0DF
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Nice article in the new issue of QRP Quarterly, Jack.? Where do we slip that code into the 49er project code to take advantage of the quick QSY feature. Dave, W0DF
|
Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Hi Jack... and thanks for the reply.?
Just so there's no confusion, the Mini-360 bucking module has indeed been adjusted for a solid 5v as per Farrukh's instructions. The "issue" I was having - if you want to call it that - was the adjustment of R1 on the DDS board. I was supposed to set a peak-to-peak voltage of 4 volts to J3 on the board. So although I used an RF-probe to make this adjustment to 4 volts on R1, Dennis informed me that the probe actually gave me an RMS value. I need a peak-to-peak voltage. As Homer would say... "DOH!"
So guys... anyone going for their Extra and simply thinks memorizing the question pool because you're NEVER going to use the math jibberish as long as you live... FAIL! 4 volts RMS x 1.414 = 5.656. Multiply this by 2 to get peak-to-peak and you get 11.3! So if there was any wonder why my D882 smoked to hell... here you go.?
Thanks, Dennis for helping me remember what I should have never forgotten!
Aaron - N2HTL
?
Aaron:
The rig is really rated at a max of 3W, not 5W. I would encourage you to limit the input voltage to the rig at 12V and adjust the VFO board for 5V per Farrukh's instructions. Adjust so output doesn't exceed 3W. It wouldn't hurt to put a heat sink on the PA transistor, either. The finned clip-on types are great, but stupidly expensive. You can make your own, too. Take a soda can and cut out about a 1" square piece. If the paint looks ugly to you, sand it off. Put the transistor on the piece you just cut out and cut from either side in about the height of the transistor and in about 1/4" from the side. Then cut from the bottom so you are left with a tab on the bottom, like this:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?+----------------------+ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? A ? ? ? ? B ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?+-----+ ? ? ? ? ?+-----+ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? +--------+
The idea is to mold the tab around the transistor. You may have to cut a diagonal slit at points A and B to make it easier to bend around the transistor. Once you have it fitting snugly on the transistor, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing that's a little longer than the length of the tab from the bottom, over the leads and up to cover the tab that's been molded around the transistor. (Obviously, you have to do this before you mount the transistor.) Now heat up the tubing so it shrinks to hold the heat sink firmly in place. It's borderline ugly, but it works. While it probably looks better to bend the sink over, the vertical position should use its own convention air currents to wick the heat away more efficiently.
Jack, W8TEE
?
Hi Don.?
Dennis already responded to the coil issue you were having so I won't tie up the thread with that. I'm curious though how you happened to fry the D882. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, I made a serious error by using an RF probe to adjust R1 for 4 V. With Dennis' help, it was determined that by doing the adjustment that way, I was actually putting out close to 11 V into the D882 on the 49-er board. I'm surprised mine lasted as long as it did. Per Dennis and Jack's suggestion, a scope really needs to be used to measure this voltage... but perhaps there are other methods other folks can chime in on that would make it a little easier since not everyone has access to a scope.?
Once my replacement D882s arrive, but before I install one of them, I'm going to try and measure the actual voltages at the transistor - measuring collector to base, collector to emitter, and emitter to base. According to the data sheet for the NEC D882, the maximum voltages should be 40, 30, and 5 volts respectfully, I'm going to assume that the emitter to base voltage was WAY beyond 5 volts and that's what killed my D882.
Another possible thought came to mind. I think it was Jack who had mentioned in an earlier thread that achieving a true 5 watts out of the 49-er was a bit of a reach and doing so would result in overheating of the D882. I should have listened to that advice because when I made the adjustment to R1 while looking at the output of J3 on my RF probe, I was getting slightly MORE than 5 watts out of the radio. Stupid me thought that was great!?
R1 is the type of variable resistor where you have to give some serious rotation in order to see a drop or rise in it's value. I was thinking that in lieu of using a scope to make the adjustment to R1 for 4 volts, in my case perhaps it might work if I watched a wattmeter while adjusting R1 until I see a drop in output power - like to 4 watts out or just slightly under 5 (which is where the output was before I started messing with R1).? Since I could rotate R1 several turns before a drop actually occurred, I may be safely putting the peak to peak voltage back where it needs to be so nothing else goes up in smoke. The trace on my scope is blurry so adjusting for a true 4 volts is going to be tough.?
You're lucky, Don, ?in that your replacement D882s have arrived. Mine should be here any day now as I ordered them from Tayda Electronics and they usually take a week.?
Aaron - N2HTL
On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 9:12 PM, kc1at@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
?
OK so my 49'er is deaf...worse than me (double hearing aids)...takes about 1 millivolt out of my Wavetek SG to hear anything worth listening to.....(like a Hallicrafters S-120 with low line voltage.) Output is low too...maybe a 1/2 watt or so...
I think I mis- wound the torrids...so L3 is 11 turns (per the instructions) ...so do you count 12 passes thru the center ???? ( the first turn is really 2 passes thru the core??? right ???) same for L4..how many passes are thru the core ???? ,...16 or 17 ???..I did double check the caps...those are all correct.
Yeah and I smoked the final when I was tuning it up too (after a while key down)...got my stash of finals from China the other day...these things aren't like 6146's are they ??? hahahaha
..been following the heat sink thread...I'm trying to make some sort of heat sink for it....
any help appreciated for an old tube guy struggling to get into the 20th century...
Don KC1AT
ps...the arduino part/ VFO works flawlessly ...hahahaha..love this project.
-- Aaron
|
Re: winding toroids and red wine don't mix
OK...rained off and on most of the day so it was a good day to work on the board. I fixed the toroids and found a few other mistakes and questionable solder joints....adjusted the VFO output to about 3 volts (with the scope this time)...got 1 1/2 watts out of it. I'll wait to get a heat sink on the transistor before I push it up to 4 volts. Found an old CPU heat sink that might work. Got to check the edge distance to see if it will squeeze onto the board.
Also the sensitivity is a lot better now....I got a head cold and my ears are plugged so I can't comment on the audio level...its probably OK but hard for me to hear...did hear someone calling CQ around 7028 and a few other signals out there.
Searching for a case now....
tnx for all the help
don KC1AT
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Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Thanks Dennis....I'll pull a turn off each of those toroids. (notice the correct spelling)
Aaron....I hate to tell ya why the 882 blew out....BUT, the scope was on my other bench and I didn't have a decent LV power supply on that bench soooooo since I was only getting a 1/2 watt output I thought I'll just crank up the VFO output a bit to get about 2 watts out....that didn't work....I got my 882's from a Chinese supplier on eBay, I think they were 10 pieces for $1.79...took about 2 weeks to get here. I also picked up some 8050's from Mouser last week,,,,just in case.
Suppose to rain here today so maybe I can work on the board and get it going.
tnx for the help
don KC1AT
|
Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Aaron:
The rig is really rated at a max of 3W, not 5W. I would encourage you to limit the input voltage to the rig at 12V and adjust the VFO board for 5V per Farrukh's instructions. Adjust so output doesn't exceed 3W. It wouldn't hurt to put a heat sink on the PA transistor, either. The finned clip-on types are great, but stupidly expensive. You can make your own, too. Take a soda can and cut out about a 1" square piece. If the paint looks ugly to you, sand it off. Put the transistor on the piece you just cut out and cut from either side in about the height of the transistor and in about 1/4" from the side. Then cut from the bottom so you are left with a tab on the bottom, like this:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?+----------------------+ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? A ? ? ? ? B ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?+-----+ ? ? ? ? ?+-----+ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? | ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? +--------+
The idea is to mold the tab around the transistor. You may have to cut a diagonal slit at points A and B to make it easier to bend around the transistor. Once you have it fitting snugly on the transistor, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing that's a little longer than the length of the tab from the bottom, over the leads and up to cover the tab that's been molded around the transistor. (Obviously, you have to do this before you mount the transistor.) Now heat up the tubing so it shrinks to hold the heat sink firmly in place. It's borderline ugly, but it works. While it probably looks better to bend the sink over, the vertical position should use its own convention air currents to wick the heat away more efficiently.
Jack, W8TEE
From: "Aaron Heverin aaronhev@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2016 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] winding torrids and red wine don't mix
?
Hi Don.?
Dennis already responded to the coil issue you were having so I won't tie up the thread with that. I'm curious though how you happened to fry the D882. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, I made a serious error by using an RF probe to adjust R1 for 4 V. With Dennis' help, it was determined that by doing the adjustment that way, I was actually putting out close to 11 V into the D882 on the 49-er board. I'm surprised mine lasted as long as it did. Per Dennis and Jack's suggestion, a scope really needs to be used to measure this voltage... but perhaps there are other methods other folks can chime in on that would make it a little easier since not everyone has access to a scope.?
Once my replacement D882s arrive, but before I install one of them, I'm going to try and measure the actual voltages at the transistor - measuring collector to base, collector to emitter, and emitter to base. According to the data sheet for the NEC D882, the maximum voltages should be 40, 30, and 5 volts respectfully, I'm going to assume that the emitter to base voltage was WAY beyond 5 volts and that's what killed my D882.
Another possible thought came to mind. I think it was Jack who had mentioned in an earlier thread that achieving a true 5 watts out of the 49-er was a bit of a reach and doing so would result in overheating of the D882. I should have listened to that advice because when I made the adjustment to R1 while looking at the output of J3 on my RF probe, I was getting slightly MORE than 5 watts out of the radio. Stupid me thought that was great!?
R1 is the type of variable resistor where you have to give some serious rotation in order to see a drop or rise in it's value. I was thinking that in lieu of using a scope to make the adjustment to R1 for 4 volts, in my case perhaps it might work if I watched a wattmeter while adjusting R1 until I see a drop in output power - like to 4 watts out or just slightly under 5 (which is where the output was before I started messing with R1).? Since I could rotate R1 several turns before a drop actually occurred, I may be safely putting the peak to peak voltage back where it needs to be so nothing else goes up in smoke. The trace on my scope is blurry so adjusting for a true 4 volts is going to be tough.?
You're lucky, Don, ?in that your replacement D882s have arrived. Mine should be here any day now as I ordered them from Tayda Electronics and they usually take a week.?
Aaron - N2HTL
|
Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Hi Don.?
Dennis already responded to the coil issue you were having so I won't tie up the thread with that. I'm curious though how you happened to fry the D882. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, I made a serious error by using an RF probe to adjust R1 for 4 V. With Dennis' help, it was determined that by doing the adjustment that way, I was actually putting out close to 11 V into the D882 on the 49-er board. I'm surprised mine lasted as long as it did. Per Dennis and Jack's suggestion, a scope really needs to be used to measure this voltage... but perhaps there are other methods other folks can chime in on that would make it a little easier since not everyone has access to a scope.?
Once my replacement D882s arrive, but before I install one of them, I'm going to try and measure the actual voltages at the transistor - measuring collector to base, collector to emitter, and emitter to base. According to the data sheet for the NEC D882, the maximum voltages should be 40, 30, and 5 volts respectfully, I'm going to assume that the emitter to base voltage was WAY beyond 5 volts and that's what killed my D882.
Another possible thought came to mind. I think it was Jack who had mentioned in an earlier thread that achieving a true 5 watts out of the 49-er was a bit of a reach and doing so would result in overheating of the D882. I should have listened to that advice because when I made the adjustment to R1 while looking at the output of J3 on my RF probe, I was getting slightly MORE than 5 watts out of the radio. Stupid me thought that was great!?
R1 is the type of variable resistor where you have to give some serious rotation in order to see a drop or rise in it's value. I was thinking that in lieu of using a scope to make the adjustment to R1 for 4 volts, in my case perhaps it might work if I watched a wattmeter while adjusting R1 until I see a drop in output power - like to 4 watts out or just slightly under 5 (which is where the output was before I started messing with R1).? Since I could rotate R1 several turns before a drop actually occurred, I may be safely putting the peak to peak voltage back where it needs to be so nothing else goes up in smoke. The trace on my scope is blurry so adjusting for a true 4 volts is going to be tough.?
You're lucky, Don, ?in that your replacement D882s have arrived. Mine should be here any day now as I ordered them from Tayda Electronics and they usually take a week.?
Aaron - N2HTL
?
OK so my 49'er is deaf...worse than me (double hearing aids)...takes about 1 millivolt out of my Wavetek SG to hear anything worth listening to.....(like a Hallicrafters S-120 with low line voltage.) Output is low too...maybe a 1/2 watt or so...
I think I mis- wound the torrids...so L3 is 11 turns (per the instructions) ...so do you count 12 passes thru the center ???? ( the first turn is really 2 passes thru the core??? right ???) same for L4..how many passes are thru the core ???? ,...16 or 17 ???..I did double check the caps...those are all correct.
Yeah and I smoked the final when I was tuning it up too (after a while key down)...got my stash of finals from China the other day...these things aren't like 6146's are they ??? hahahaha
..been following the heat sink thread...I'm trying to make some sort of heat sink for it....
any help appreciated for an old tube guy struggling to get into the 20th century...
Don KC1AT
ps...the arduino part/ VFO works flawlessly ...hahahaha..love this project.
|
Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Hi, Don
Nope, you have one extra turn on each coil.? Each time the wire passes through the core counts as a turn.? 12 passes through the core means 12 turns.
Hopefully that will help clarify the coil winding!
73,
-dennis W6DQ Inyokern CA
From: "kc1at@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2016 6:12 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] winding torrids and red wine don't mix
?
OK so my 49'er is deaf...worse than me (double hearing aids)...takes about 1 millivolt out of my Wavetek SG to hear anything worth listening to.....(like a Hallicrafters S-120 with low line voltage.) Output is low too...maybe a 1/2 watt or so...
I think I mis- wound the torrids...so L3 is 11 turns (per the instructions) ...so do you count 12 passes thru the center ???? ( the first turn is really 2 passes thru the core??? right ???) same for L4..how many passes are thru the core ???? ,...16 or 17 ???..I did double check the caps...those are all correct.
Yeah and I smoked the final when I was tuning it up too (after a while key down)...got my stash of finals from China the other day...these things aren't like 6146's are they ??? hahahaha
..been following the heat sink thread...I'm trying to make some sort of heat sink for it....
any help appreciated for an old tube guy struggling to get into the 20th century...
Don KC1AT
ps...the arduino part/ VFO works flawlessly ...hahahaha..love this project.
|
winding torrids and red wine don't mix
OK so my 49'er is deaf...worse than me (double hearing aids)...takes about 1 millivolt out of my Wavetek SG to hear anything worth listening to.....(like a Hallicrafters S-120 with low line voltage.) Output is low too...maybe a 1/2 watt or so... I think I mis- wound the torrids...so L3 is 11 turns (per the instructions) ...so do you count 12 passes thru the center ???? ( the first turn is really 2 passes thru the core??? right ???) same for L4..how many passes are thru the core ???? ,...16 or 17 ???..I did double check the caps...those are all correct. Yeah and I smoked the final when I was tuning it up too (after a while key down)...got my stash of finals from China the other day...these things aren't like 6146's are they ??? hahahaha ..been following the heat sink thread...I'm trying to make some sort of heat sink for it.... any help appreciated for an old tube guy struggling to get into the 20th century... Don KC1AT ps...the arduino part/ VFO works flawlessly ...hahahaha..love this project.
|
Re: DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
That's because the lowest increment value is 10, not 1.
Jack, W8TEE
From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2016 7:44 AM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
?
I finally got the?DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!! It appears everything loaded fine.. Just have to do some color coding of wires, only had blue ones to start.. Waiting on the multi colored ones to arrive. It work nicely. ?
I do have a question however about the last digit on the display.. During testing of all the increments, I noticed the last digit always stays at 0.. Is there something I have wrong? Code issue? Is this a expected function?
Now on to completing the 49'r kit..
Steve, NS3L? ?
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DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
I finally got the?DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!! It appears everything loaded fine.. Just have to do some color coding of wires, only had blue ones to start.. Waiting on the multi colored ones to arrive. It work nicely. ?
I do have a question however about the last digit on the display.. During testing of all the increments, I noticed the last digit always stays at 0.. Is there something I have wrong? Code issue? Is this a expected function?
Now on to completing the 49'r kit..
Steve, NS3L? ?
|
Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
Hi Steve. Yes... that lettering on the DDS VFO board is a bit of a confusing issue especially for anyone not familiar with an Arduino, or header pin configuration for that matter - although it's not really an Arduino thing. I had asked several members of our club where they thought "pins 2 and 4" were located on the board and they called out the same thing you did... the pins CLEARLY labeled "2" and "4" on the board. :-)
If you take a look at the schematic for the radio and the DDS modification, you will see J1 called out. Follow the pin-out as per the schematic and you'll have no problems. Pin 1 is 12v as is pin 2... pin 3 is ground as is pin 4.?
Aaron - N2HTL
?
OK I may have figured this out..
On the DDS-VFO board itself there is lettering all along J1 and I tried connecting to the two lettered "2" and "4" however I actually ended up connecting to the right pins anyway to get the regulator set. Turns out pins 2 & 4 of J1 lettered 12V & G is where I should have been in the first place.. The lettering 2 & 4 at the yellow pin headers is what threw me off..
All is well..?
Steve..
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Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
I did get 12v and ground on pin 2&4. I just had it wrong in the first place. The ?board is stenciled with 2&4 and I had misread the instructions. The diagram got me on the right pins.?
On Wednesday, April 20, 2016, 4:00 PM, Jack Purdum jjpurdum@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] wrote:
?
Pins 8-10 should all be +5V, while 3-6 are GND. Pins 1 and 2 should be +12V with respect to GND. The fact that you do not see 12V on pin 2(+) and 4(-) makes me wonder about the external power supply. What does it read? I don't know what you're doing when you say:
When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money..
Please explain...
Jack, W8TEE
From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 3:33 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
?
I have a dilemma, I followed the instructions for setting the regulator, however the connection points called out J1, pins 2 & 4 for the 12V+ did nothing. I had the 12V ground to one of the G's. I connected the DMM to the 5V+ and G to pick up the voltage output from the regulator but got nothing.
When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money..
Question... Why didn't the 12V+ work through pins 2 & 4? I checked the solder points and they are good. What would explain this and if pins 2 & 4 didn't work for setting the regulator what adverse affect will that have after I seat the modules?
Steve NS3L
|
Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
Pins 8-10 should all be +5V, while 3-6 are GND. Pins 1 and 2 should be +12V with respect to GND. The fact that you do not see 12V on pin 2(+) and 4(-) makes me wonder about the external power supply. What does it read? I don't know what you're doing when you say:
When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money..
Please explain...
Jack, W8TEE
From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]"
To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 3:33 PM
Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
?
I have a dilemma, I followed the instructions for setting the regulator, however the connection points called out J1, pins 2 & 4 for the 12V+ did nothing. I had the 12V ground to one of the G's. I connected the DMM to the 5V+ and G to pick up the voltage output from the regulator but got nothing.
When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money..
Question... Why didn't the 12V+ work through pins 2 & 4? I checked the solder points and they are good. What would explain this and if pins 2 & 4 didn't work for setting the regulator what adverse affect will that have after I seat the modules?
Steve NS3L
|
Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
OK I may have figured this out..
On the DDS-VFO board itself there is lettering all along J1 and I tried connecting to the two lettered "2" and "4" however I actually ended up connecting to the right pins anyway to get the regulator set. Turns out pins 2 & 4 of J1 lettered 12V & G is where I should have been in the first place.. The lettering 2 & 4 at the yellow pin headers is what threw me off..
All is well..?
Steve..
|
Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
I have a dilemma, I followed the instructions for setting the regulator, however the connection points called out J1, pins 2 & 4 for the 12V+ did nothing. I had the 12V ground to one of the G's. I connected the DMM to the 5V+ and G to pick up the voltage output from the regulator but got nothing.
When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money..
Question... Why didn't the 12V+ work through pins 2 & 4? I checked the solder points and they are good. What would explain this and if pins 2 & 4 didn't work for setting the regulator what adverse affect will that have after I seat the modules?
Steve NS3L
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When is an Arduino not an Arduino
Some may recall or have TI Launchpads. Similar in operation to Arduino, there is an IDE that allows you to develop Arduino code into them.
Here is a screenshot of the free IDE, called Energia - look and feel very similar to the Arduino IDE
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jjpurdum