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Re: winding torrids and red wine don't mix
Hi, Don Nope, you have one extra turn on each coil.? Each time the wire passes through the core counts as a turn.? 12 passes through the core means 12 turns. Hopefully that will help clarify the coil winding! 73, -dennis W6DQ Inyokern CA
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winding torrids and red wine don't mix
OK so my 49'er is deaf...worse than me (double hearing aids)...takes about 1 millivolt out of my Wavetek SG to hear anything worth listening to.....(like a Hallicrafters S-120 with low line voltage.) Output is low too...maybe a 1/2 watt or so...
I think I mis- wound the torrids...so L3 is 11 turns (per the instructions) ...so do you count 12 passes thru the center ???? ( the first turn is really 2 passes thru the core??? right ???) same for L4..how many passes are thru the core ???? ,...16 or 17 ???..I did double check the caps...those are all correct. Yeah and I smoked the final when I was tuning it up too (after a while key down)...got my stash of finals from China the other day...these things aren't like 6146's are they ??? hahahaha ..been following the heat sink thread...I'm trying to make some sort of heat sink for it.... any help appreciated for an old tube guy struggling to get into the 20th century... Don KC1AT ps...the arduino part/ VFO works flawlessly ...hahahaha..love this project. |
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Re: DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
That's because the lowest increment value is 10, not 1. Jack, W8TEE From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2016 7:44 AM Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
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I finally got the?DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!! It appears everything loaded fine.. Just have to do some color coding of wires, only had blue ones to start.. Waiting on the multi colored ones to arrive. It work nicely. ? I do have a question however about the last digit on the display.. During testing of all the increments, I noticed the last digit always stays at 0.. Is there something I have wrong? Code issue? Is this a expected function? Now on to completing the 49'r kit.. Steve, NS3L? ?
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DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!!
I finally got the?DDS-VFO, Display, & Rotary encoder working..!! It appears everything loaded fine.. Just have to do some color coding of wires, only had blue ones to start.. Waiting on the multi colored ones to arrive. It work nicely. ? I do have a question however about the last digit on the display.. During testing of all the increments, I noticed the last digit always stays at 0.. Is there something I have wrong? Code issue? Is this a expected function? Now on to completing the 49'r kit.. Steve, NS3L? ? |
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Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
Aaron Heverin
Hi Steve. Yes... that lettering on the DDS VFO board is a bit of a confusing issue especially for anyone not familiar with an Arduino, or header pin configuration for that matter - although it's not really an Arduino thing. I had asked several members of our club where they thought "pins 2 and 4" were located on the board and they called out the same thing you did... the pins CLEARLY labeled "2" and "4" on the board. :-) If you take a look at the schematic for the radio and the DDS modification, you will see J1 called out. Follow the pin-out as per the schematic and you'll have no problems. Pin 1 is 12v as is pin 2... pin 3 is ground as is pin 4.? Aaron - N2HTL On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 3:51 PM, ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
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Aaron
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Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
Steve Nordahl
I did get 12v and ground on pin 2&4. I just had it wrong in the first place. The ?board is stenciled with 2&4 and I had misread the instructions. The diagram got me on the right pins.?
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On Wednesday, April 20, 2016, 4:00 PM, Jack Purdum jjpurdum@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] wrote:
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Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
Pins 8-10 should all be +5V, while 3-6 are GND. Pins 1 and 2 should be +12V with respect to GND. The fact that you do not see 12V on pin 2(+) and 4(-) makes me wonder about the external power supply. What does it read? I don't know what you're doing when you say: When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money.. Please explain... Jack, W8TEE From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 3:33 PM Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
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I have a dilemma, I followed the instructions for setting the regulator, however the connection points called out J1, pins 2 & 4 for the 12V+ did nothing. I had the 12V ground to one of the G's. I connected the DMM to the 5V+ and G to pick up the voltage output from the regulator but got nothing. When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money.. Question... Why didn't the 12V+ work through pins 2 & 4? I checked the solder points and they are good. What would explain this and if pins 2 & 4 didn't work for setting the regulator what adverse affect will that have after I seat the modules? Steve NS3L
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Re: Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
OK I may have figured this out..
On the DDS-VFO board itself there is lettering all along J1 and I tried connecting to the two lettered "2" and "4" however I actually ended up connecting to the right pins anyway to get the regulator set. Turns out pins 2 & 4 of J1 lettered 12V & G is where I should have been in the first place.. The lettering 2 & 4 at the yellow pin headers is what threw me off.. All is well..? Steve.. |
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Setting the voltage on the Mini-360 regulator
I have a dilemma, I followed the instructions for setting the regulator, however the connection points called out J1, pins 2 & 4 for the 12V+ did nothing. I had the 12V ground to one of the G's. I connected the DMM to the 5V+ and G to pick up the voltage output from the regulator but got nothing. When I moved the 12V+ to one of the 12V (white pins at the far end of the header the voltage showed up and I was able to get the regulator at exactly 5V on the money.. Question... Why didn't the 12V+ work through pins 2 & 4? I checked the solder points and they are good. What would explain this and if pins 2 & 4 didn't work for setting the regulator what adverse affect will that have after I seat the modules? Steve NS3L |
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Re: Heatsink for the 49'r?
Someone once told me: ? ? ?All electronic devices run on white smoke. Once the smoke gets out, the device dies. Seems to be true... Jack, W8TEE From: "Aaron Heverin aaronhev@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Heatsink for the 49'r?
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Hi Steve. I can tell you first hand that the D882 MUST have a heatsink on it. I actually blew mine up the other day... not necessarily because it was running hot, but because I made an error in adjusting the peak-to-peak voltage from R1 on the DDS VFO board. Thanks to Dennis' input on the subject, I found that the voltage on my DDS was somewhere in the neighborhood of 11 volts and NOT 4 volts! Needless to say, the 49-er operated for a time... then the D882 just popped and the smoke went flying. A TO-126 case is plastic. Even with the 49-er operating at the correct voltage, the D882 is going to be very warm (almost hot) - which mine was before I fiddled with the peak-to-peak voltage adjustment and blew it up.? You'll have to come up with some clever mounting techniques in order to place the heatsink on the transistor then mount it in its correct spot on the 49-er. A possibility is to mount it with the leads bent at 90 degrees to the board. Of course, that means you've got the transistor/heatsink sticking out the side of the 49-er. If you search for "TO-126 Heatsink", there are several options that come up that may fit in the tight spot on the 49-er board. I've ordered 20 replacement D882s from Tayda Electronics. Once they come in, I'll be able to play with the heatsinks I have on hand to see what works as far as mounting the combo on the 49-er. Aaron - N2HTL On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:05 PM, ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
Aaron
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Re: Heatsink for the 49'r?
All: It wouldn't hurt to put one on, especially if you're running over 12V on the board. I've not tested it, but i read somewhere that the PA transistor get very hot above 12V. Jack, W8TEE From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 9:05 PM Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Heatsink for the 49'r?
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I've seen some images of Forty9'rs with small heat sinks.. What is the consensus on this.. Is there enough heat generated to warrant adding one.. particularly in smaller enclosures, or should good ventilation be enough ?? What have users found that works as a good bolt on one? Steve NS3L
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Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
Aaron Heverin
You can order the parts for the 49-er modifications - along with pretty much anything else you'd need - from either Debco Electronics (), or from Tayda Electronics (). I've actually ordered from both on Jack's recommendation, although Debco is right in Ohio and the shipping was blazing fast. The owners are both hams and very nice people to deal with. Prices at both places are pennies for these small components. Keep in mind that although both stores may have the same values in caps, inductors, and other parts... one may have a selection of products the other doesn't so plan your shopping list accordingly. :-) Aaron - N2HTL On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 8:59 PM, Kay or Frank Moskal kayandfrank@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
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Aaron
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Re: Heatsink for the 49'r?
Aaron Heverin
Hi Steve. I can tell you first hand that the D882 MUST have a heatsink on it. I actually blew mine up the other day... not necessarily because it was running hot, but because I made an error in adjusting the peak-to-peak voltage from R1 on the DDS VFO board. Thanks to Dennis' input on the subject, I found that the voltage on my DDS was somewhere in the neighborhood of 11 volts and NOT 4 volts! Needless to say, the 49-er operated for a time... then the D882 just popped and the smoke went flying. A TO-126 case is plastic. Even with the 49-er operating at the correct voltage, the D882 is going to be very warm (almost hot) - which mine was before I fiddled with the peak-to-peak voltage adjustment and blew it up.? You'll have to come up with some clever mounting techniques in order to place the heatsink on the transistor then mount it in its correct spot on the 49-er. A possibility is to mount it with the leads bent at 90 degrees to the board. Of course, that means you've got the transistor/heatsink sticking out the side of the 49-er. If you search for "TO-126 Heatsink", there are several options that come up that may fit in the tight spot on the 49-er board. I've ordered 20 replacement D882s from Tayda Electronics. Once they come in, I'll be able to play with the heatsinks I have on hand to see what works as far as mounting the combo on the 49-er. Aaron - N2HTL On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:05 PM, ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:
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Aaron
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Heatsink for the 49'r?
I've seen some images of Forty9'rs with small heat sinks.. What is the consensus on this.. Is there enough heat generated to warrant adding one.. particularly in smaller enclosures, or should good ventilation be enough ?? What have users found that works as a good bolt on one? Steve NS3L |
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Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
Steve: ??? Forty-9er parts are on the way, should be there Friday or Saturday.? A couple of 56pf and 22 uH.? Also some additional stuff you might need. Frank Moskal -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
Thanks Frank My address is good on my qrz page..
Thanks to the others.. I still need the 56pf capacitor so if someone has that I'd like to have one.. My local RS didn't have the cap, but I did get the 5.1V zener. Steve
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Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
Steve: ???? If that is a 22uH inductor then? Mouser part no. 70-IM2-22.? Give me your address and I'll send you a couple. Frank Moskal -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
My post on April 10 gives the supplier's URL: I find them to be a good source for parts like this. Jack, W8TEE From: "ns3l@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio]" To: SoftwareControlledHamRadio@... Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 7:13 AM Subject: [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] Re: Capacitor for the LC Circuit is a 56pF
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Where can I purchase the 22uf inductor.. I doub't my local radio shack has these..I know I can most likely get the 56pf cap from RSbut right now I have the 49'r kit underway and need this one part.. Steve NS3L
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