开云体育

I am fine if you post interest in selling/buying boats but pls contact original poster via email.

I am considering the purchase of a new (to me) boat as a retirement "toy". I have previously owned a 9.2A and a 7.9 Grand Slam. I have lived-aboard a number of other sailboats for over 25 years and cruised extensively. I have a short list of several high quality boats to consider. I would seriously consider a reasonably priced 27. I would prefer that it be the original "A" interior (pre-'86) and also with a 2GM engine (no outboards), but neither would be a "kill the deal" issue. I am located in the Chesapeake and have no problem with doing an on-the-water delivery from anywhere on the East Coast. The expense of trucking would have to be taken into account for boats located elsewhere. If you have one or know of someone that may be willing to sell. please contact me.

Note it seems Allen's email has been hacked, I have removed it from the group.

End of the season. Learned a lot more about my boat this year.

hi I just bought hull #45 and I need a 155% with hanks. and a good Main email me or call 502-396-4071 thanks David

For those of you with a backstay adjuster on your boat, do you have pictures of how it is attached to the transom? If so, could you post them in the "Photos" section? Thanks. -- Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

Hi Folks, I just finished replacing my bow light with a Perko Bi-Color Navigation light (chrome finish), Model 0170MBO, which is an EXACT replacement for the OEM Lucas light 0120. My local West Marine ordered it for me from Perko, since they don't keep it in stock. Cost was about $60; delivery was ~one week. The black plastic (polymer) version is about 10 bucks less. Here's the Perko web page: http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/product/931/ My installation was straightforward since my wiring was intact, and the entire project took about 30 minutes. The festoon-type lamp was pre-installed in the housing. Unfortunately, it is not an LED, but it is nonetheless very bright. An instruction guide can be found on the Perko website: http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/pdf/0170%20Series%20Inst%28USCG%29.pdf I have posted photos of my installation in the "Photos" section under the "Bow Light Housing" album. Cheers! Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

I have already winterized the boat but thought that I might ask if I have missed anything. I took the raw water inlet hose off the sea cock and ran almost two gallons of 100 below thru the engine until I saw the color in the exhaust water comming out the stern. I have not drained the muffler. I drained the fresh water from the sink in the head and ran 50 below till I saw the color in the tap. There is about 1 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze in the fresh water system. The foot pump in the gally sink is now broken but I can see some antifreeze in the inlet hose. The waste water tank was pumped dry and about a gallon of 50 below was put in the toilet and pumped thru. I could not get the last screw out of the water impeller so I left it for the spring. Loosened the fan belt. Batteries are in the basement on blocks. Still looking for a really good storage charger. Filled the fuel tank with treated fuel. Pumped out the bilge and some water in the engine area. Made ribs out of electrical pipe and covered the boat with three tarps. Took out the interior and everything else that I could to store inside. Has anyone replaced the galley foot pump? How do you get to it? Seriously, I looked and it appears to be under a wood shelf that may have been installed and then the galley section set into place. Has anyone found a good replacement for the two color bow light? Brand and source? Same for the foot pump? I closing, I must say that this has been a great boat with a great engine. I have really enjoyed it this summer, I just wish for some better weather. October made the season for me as I got out five times in ten days! Have a good winter and an even better sailing summer. Allen Hinkelman.

Hi I have been corresponding with an outfit called ShipShape Products Inc. 732 E. 4th St. Duluth, MN 55805 Phone: (218) 624-5677 Website: www.shipshapecanvas.com They advertise in Good Old Boat magazine. And their winter cover prices seem reasonable. Has anyone used them before? If not, has anyone have made a winter cover and if so, who did you use? I need to get an accurate measurement for a quote. Will let you know if I move ahead. Rick

The scuppers on our boats are a lousy design, IMHO. Not only do they rely on hoses which deteriorate with time, but it's not a straight run from the cockpit scupper drain to the through hull, either. The drains are much to small for the size of the cockpit, too. My scupper hoses were black 2" O.D., 1 3/4" I.D. fuel-grade hose (without wire). My hoses were cracked and leaking on both sides of the boat, so I replaced them all with white sanitation hose before launch this year (I actually had water leakage from the lake while sailing last year, since the lower hose on the starboard side was cracked just above the upper hose clamp). I could *just* flex the white sanitation hose enough to install them after I warmed them up with a heat gun, but it was not easy installation. The hoses runs are quite short between the fittings -- 4" or so, so flexing any hose of that length to pop it on the fittings is very difficult. I was really concerned that I would compromise the through hull by pushing and pulling on it too much, but I managed to install them without causing a through hull leak. Also, because the white sanitation hose that I used required significant pressure from the hose clamps to make the joint watertight, I also ran a bead of 3M 4200 along the cut edge of the bottom piece that meets the barb of the through hull. That's the joint which is critical. Keep in mind that the top of that barb is only an inch or so above the waterline. At any significant angle of heel, I'm pretty sure the top of the barb and the joint is below the waterline. Hence, the 4200. So far, no leaks. My suggestion would be to look for some type of hose that is more flexible and softer than either typical exhaust hose or sanitation hose. Make sure it doesn't have a spiral wire in it. I should have tried an auto parts store, in hindsight. Hope this helps. Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

Today was a good day on my boat but a quick look in the lazerette showed the starboard scupper hose had shrunk and was loose from the cockpit drain fitting. I was able to move it up a little and get it connected back but obviously I need to replace the hoses. I didn't have anything with me to measure the diameter of the hose barbs, does anybody know what size hose is needed? The port side looked ok and it had a "Y" fitting for the bilge pump, I will replace it too. Mark S2-27, #15 Nashville

Launched yesterday. Packing gland was pretty dried out, leaking a few cups before the flax finally sealed. Stayed in a transient slip overnight. Weather forecast was good for today, but cool (60 degrees F). We shoved off at 8:30 AM, and had a 6+ hour cruise to our home port. My younger brother had not sailed the boat to date, and he was reluctant to give up the tiller, which was fine by me. :) All-in-all, a good first day of the season on the water, with no surprises or problems, and we did have a nice sail (although we did motorsail for a bit). The Yanmar performed up to specs, which makes me happy (bloody loud, though, when motorsailing at 6.3 kts). It's good to be back in our comfy home port slip, albeit about 3 weeks later than normal... Dave S. 1987 S2 27 "Clio" Hull #80 PS. Did I mention that I spent >2 hours yesterday on my hands and knees just cleaning the deck? She's pretty clean, if I do say so myself... :)

Has anyone replaced the plywood stiffener on the lazarette hatches. I have a couple pieces of teak that I could epoxy in their place but hate to remove the hatches to do it. The plywood is about gone and falling apart.

When you replace your water pump impeller, do you lightly grease the paper gasket, or not? Thanks in advance for your responses! --Dave PS. As Bones said in Star Trek: "I'm a doctor, not a bricklayer!" Well, I'm a sailor, not a diesel mechanic.

Well, I finally got to go to my boat today and clean it up for the first time this year. My batteries are dead and I need to get a couple new ones. I am recovering from back surgery and just couldn't climb down ther to check them out. Does anybody recall what size the batteries are the fit between the fuel tank and the engine compartment on the original design 27? I am thinking group 27 or 31?? Mark Nashville S2-27 #15

I delayed mine 2 weeks due to the cold....

I wipe the toe rail down with Penetrol a couple times a year. It makes it nice and black, seals them and lasts several months. I do it on a hot sunny day so it will dry quickly. Mark Nashville Hull #15 Bill, sorry for delay..digging out from the 35 inches of snow we received last weekend...tired of shoveling driveway, roof, etc... Re the "weeping toe rails" i feel your frustration...i haven't found any solution. and its a pain to clean off after the boat as been sitting on the hard for 6 months...i thought of doing a really deep cleaning of the tos rail..with a toothbrush...amd the maybe waxing the rail to see of that helps.. might try it on a section of the rail, if it works.... thx for posting pictures.

Glad to see there is a group of S2 27 owners. I have owned hull # 44 since 1998. Has been fresh water sailed. Have enjoyed the boat and have a lot of miles under her keel thru the years both racing and cruising. Bill

Hi Rick, I, too, have a cantilever mount for my ST4000. I've posted a picture of my Autohelm tiller bracket in the "Photos" section in the "Autohelm" folder. The pin on the tiller bracket is 18" from the rudder pivot point, which is important for the proper throw of the ram. The cantelever "peg" (threaded rod) was too long when I bought it, so I cut it with a hacksaw to about a 2" length. The mounting socket which the threaded rod screws into is mounted flat on the angled part of the vertical coaming with three through-bolts with a backing plate and some 3M 4200. When screwed in, the rod itself is angled upward a few degrees upward from horizontal...it doesn't really matter, though, since the attachment rod on the end of the ram (which fits into the hole on the cantelever rod) has the ability to pivot. Just make absolutely sure that the hole in the threaded rod is up and square. The downside to this mounting scheme is that the starboard lazarette lid doesn't open completely because the mounting socket sticks out 1/2" or so, and blocks it. That doesn't bother me; I simply bungee it up when I need to climb down there. Hope this is clear, and that it helps somewhat. Sorry about the tardy response to your original message. ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

We're about to take my boat to the coast and put it in the water (very excited). It occured to me that I don't know how big the fuel tank is. Would someone please tell me how big the tank is and also, how many hours I can run the engine at idle, charging batteries, and/or at 3,000 rpm under power.