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Hi Does anyone know off-hand the diameter of the stanchion posts? I am looking to buy a spinnaker pole chock (Forespar) so I can store my pole on deck vs. in the cabin. Thanks! Rick

Mark I am pretty sure they are Beckson ports. Made 10 min from my house in Bridgeport, Conn. I posted a file in called the s2 13page letter - may have info there. Thanks. Rick Perret +1 203 545 9598 Sent from mobile device.

Has anyone replaced their port lights in the "V" berth area. I noticed mine are begining to crack and need replaced. I think they are Bomar, black but I am having trouble identifying the correct size. Mark Nashville S2-27 #15

Here is a link to a site I recently came across on the Internet. It describes with many large picture the repair process of rotten balsa core around a chainplate from underneath (on a S2 27). Link: http://taylorsmill.com/boatweb/Core Patch.htm Charles

First, Hello to all. I'm quite amazed at the quick and helpful response I got from my first post. Many thanks to all who replied. And thanks you Rick for the welcome message. The fist significant issue I'm facing pertains to the rubber shaft tube itself: indeed, mine is held by 2 stainless clamps at each end of the rubber tube that transitions from the shaft tube on the boat to the actual stuffing box as per Rick's description. There are no visible nuts sticking-out of the tube on the shaft, so it really need to be removed to access the nuts and bolts. (it doesn't look like the pbase.com website pictures) Now, after removing all 4 clamps, the rubber shaft tube doesn't move at all, even when using a pipe wrench. So far, I was afraid of applying more power to loosen the tube. I'm afraid to damage the rubber if I apply more pressure.. Also, when it gets loose, do I have to de-couple the prop shat from the transmission and pull-it partly out in order to remove the rubber shaft tube? Unless it is cut open at the bottom, I don't see how I can access the stuffing box nuts otherwise. (the boat is not in the water at the moment) Is this the kind of stuffing box you have on your boats? It looks like the original and not a new dripless stuffing box. Has anybody installed a new dripless stuffing box on their boat? If so, is the engine vibration causing premature wear? I will take picture tomorrow and try to post-it so you can actually see what's on my boat. Thanks again for all the help. Charles (BTW, is the hull# corresponding to the last two digits of the hull ID number? If it's so, I'm the owner of the last S2 27 build as it finishes with XXXXXXXXC585)

this year, after stepping my mast (keel stepped) rather than slopping silicone in the mast partner/compression plate area i tried something different - butyl rubber tape (available at most RV stores and some auto parts stores). i had seen this technique posted in sailnet recently (by the same guy who posts the great boat project information on pbase.com - mainesail is his internet avatar i believe..) apparently years ago boat manufacturers used this stuff extensively (probably vintage 60's-70's boats). I used this because apparently it's easier to remove than silicone - time will tell if it holds back the rain - there was a rainy day a week or so ago - the headliner area around the mast was dry - so maybe it works - we'll see and i'll report back. Rick

I'll check this coming weekend, but my stern light was manufactured by Lucas, out of the UK. I would think that Perko would make a very similar replacement, something like this: http://gator49.hostgator.com/~zeromyst/ecatalog/index.php?cPath=213_51_89_96 Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

Hi, I'm the owner of a 1985 S2 27 since summer of 2006 and I sail on Lake Champlain in upper NY state. Every spring, I find an increasing amount of water in the bilge during the first days (where I must run trough a narrow river for 10 miles with the engine before reaching the lake). This is water I can easily pump with the hand pump. Initially after a day in 2006, than a week, than about two weeks last year, a small amount of water found it's way into the bilge. But after 'the season's beginning break-in period' the bilge remains pretty much dry for the remaining of the summer. Considering this type of regressive leak, the stuffing box is the prime suspect. Especially that I never maintained-it since I have the boat. I recently removed the 4 collars, but was unsuccessful in removing the rubber to check the stuffing box assembly and perform preventive maintenance. I'm clueless as to how I should proceed. Your comments and suggestions are welcome.

Sorry Rick, no info to assist with mast wires. I have to decide whether to pay for the bucket lift before launch or wait til after and climb my mast to fix the windex and re-thread the spin halyard. But before that, there's a water pump O-ring, both fuel filters, clean the fuel tank, bottom paint top coat, and I really ought to take the PO's home port letters off the transom this year. Hope it stops raining for a few minutes this month... Bob

"Jesse's Girl" is apparently up for sale in St Joe, Michigan... http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/S2-27-2204604/St.-Joseph/MI/United-States The boat in Norfolk, VA, is still for sale (been listed for at least a year.) It has been re-powered with an 18 HP Yanmar 2GM20F(V). http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/S2--1708326/Norfolk/VA/United-States I have no interest in either of these boats, but I have spoken with the owner of the boat in St Joe...he and his wife are great folks. It's a nice boat, and certainly a good value at that price. Maybe we can stir the pot a bit, and help these owners get them sold.

Finally posted a series of photos in the "More Bilge and Keel Bolts" Photos section of the keel configuration and the keel bolts for my 1987 "B" model, hull #80. Somewhat different from Rick's "A" model. Note the use of mild steel washers, which are very rusty. Very shallow bilge, just like the earlier models. I probably should do something about the rusty washers in the near future...ahh, well, I like livin' on the edge... ;) Ha!

Hey Rick, Okay...the vids caused Both Firefox and IE to crash when I clicked on them to get them to run in both browsers, so I downloaded the vids to my machine (right click, then "Save Link As" in Firefox.) Thanks for posting them. My interpretation: your belt is either loose or stretched. Should only have a quarter inch or so play. I think I'd replace the belt. Check for cracks; if you find some, replace the belt, then carry a spare. At 1800 rpm or 2400 rpm, she doesn't move around very much, but at idle she does shake a bit, just like mine (well, perhaps a bit more). Could be that both of our rubber engine mounts need replacement. Of course, since she's a one-lunger, she's gonna thump and shake a bit... One guy's opinion... The shaking question might be posted on the Yanmar Yahoo list. Could be some good (i.e., knowledgeable) responses there. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Yanmardiesel Cheers! Dave S. S2 27, Hull #80

Is my v-belt moving around too much? also at idle does your yanmar shake as much as mine does??? Commissioned in the water Monday - but my new seacock leaked - so had to haul out and figure out what the heck is going on.... Rick

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right....its going to be 20 degrees here in CT - 2 weeks ago it was 70. go figure. tried to sand bottom last week - but my Home Dept Rigid sander started shocking me - ie, I was the ground... after 3 jolts I thought it best to live sans a clean bottom this week. Best part was going to HD and getting a new sander. It came with lifetime warranty - person at sales deck says $35 refurbish fee.....i say - what? - sears and lowes does exchanges on all their tools - got a new sander from them in about 5 min. Also bought a breaker box for end of cable and tester...(i know the box at the yard was fine - but i don't want to get shocked again) today was a day in the boat toy store - Defender Industries up here in CT. defender.com - their prices normally are well below West Marine - and they are a mail order business - 1X per year they open their warehouse - 3 days of sales. QUESTION - any of you guys rewire your mast? I'm replacing the steaming/deck light that I purchased today - didn't know if there is a wiring conduit or not in the mast - any tips on ensuring wiring is supported properly? thanks Rick

Anyone in the group ever get an official S2 27 PHRF rating for racing in a JAM fleet? Page 4 of the Owner's Manual gives a 174 rating, but I suspect that is for a spinn fleet, and without an inboard engine. The New England PHRF fleet (http://www.phrfne.org/page/567) lists two base ratings: S2 27 = 180 S2 27 IB (for inboard) = 186 Last summer, my local club assigned me a 206 rating for the two JAM fun races I entered, so I'm just curious how close that rating really is. My boat is the 5'9" deep keel model. Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

Interested in seeing what other folks bilge and keel bolts look like - especially the backing plates. i posted in files section some bilge shots when I first purchased the boat - i added some stainless backing plates since then.

So the rails are finally sanded down and ready to refinish. I purchased a quart of west marine 5 star varnish which is the epicanes high gloss but labeled WM. First I plan to varnish the inside portion (back) of the rail first. This is to get a feel for using the epifanes product and any mistakes won't be seen...also when I have to do the outer side I won't risk ruining the finish f I then needed to do the back. I am also in the process of filling the standoff tubes with thickened epoxy. I did one tube and it went well. Once the rails are done, I reach a decision point...do I take the stand off tubes and bed them onto the rails first? If I do it this way the only beddeing I need to do in the spring are the ends of the standoff tubes that lie against the cabin top. Alternatively perhaps I could bed the tubes to the cabin top first? Then fit the rail after the fact?? Interested in your opinions? Thx Rick ...91days to launch.....

FYI - now back to work! http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque3.htm Rick