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I've been wondering about my rusty keel blot washers too. Why in the world wouldn't they have been stainless? I would like to replace them this spring as they are pretty crumbly. How tight do we torque the nuts? (If it ever stops snowing.) Thanks, Bob

Here's a little pictorial of the chainplate area core repair I had to do last spring instead of launch early... http://taylorsmill.com/boatweb/Core Patch.htm

Woops. Those deep checks need to be filled before the varnish goes on. Finish can't really act as a filler there. You might try to spot the dips with varnish for a few days but keep in mind as the stuff builds up it gets slow to dry. We've got time before launch though! If I was in a hurry I would belt sand it all off and go again. I would fill with one of those acetone type putties like Famowood.

OK - so i am on coat #3 of varnish: first coat - 50% thinned. second coat - 25% thinned 3rd coat I just did (20 min ago) - and posted pix in photo section. I am getting these valleys of no coverage in areas where there is deep grain (back side of handrails). i sanded between coats - any thoughts where I am messing up? Thx. Rick

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the s227classassociation group. File : /Yanmar-parts-Quick-reference-2007.pdf Uploaded by : s227classassociation <rperret@...> Description : Quick Reference Guide of Yanmar Parts - with Pictures You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/s227classassociation/files/Yanmar-parts-Quick-reference-2007.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles Regards, s227classassociation <rperret@...>

The manual I was referring to in my previous post was a yanmar 1gm10 manual.

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the s227classassociation group: Any interest in attending the US Sailboat Show in Annapolis Fall 2010? We can meet as a group. o Yes o Maybe o No To vote, please visit the following web page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/s227classassociation/surveys?id=2586372 Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups web site listed above. Thanks!

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the s227classassociation group. File : /Boat Commissionin_2010.xls Uploaded by : s227classassociation <rperret@...> Description : Handy file for planning boat comissioning - has workplan, link to where you can get local tide tables, yanmar part numbers, and calendar print out. You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/s227classassociation/files/Boat%20Commissionin_2010.xls To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles Regards, s227classassociation <rperret@...>

all - i have an older softcopy of the manual in case anyone is interested. let me know and I will email to you. Also, finally sanded down my weatherboards and handrails. when the weather gets a little warmer - probably March - i am going to clean them with spic-n-span/water (Practical Sailor recommends that vs. teak cleaners). This year I may try teak oil vs Cetol - i didn't like the look of Cetol - too orange. A friend uses Bristol Finish - might try that - anyone here used that in the past? Also, ordered a new titanium screw and smooth clevis pin (the pin is part of the furling system to attach the link plates to the lower part of furling unit) for my Profurl furler. Amazing - $17 for a screw. The pin was $32 - my current pin had some corrosion and under magnification was pitting. But $32 is cheaper than a downed rig...ordered the parts from pyacht.com - they are an authorized distributor of Profurl parts based in Severn, MD. Now working on my 2010 "to-do" list.... Rick

Dave S. The S2 owner's book lists a battery charger as "optional", and says it is "activated from the 100v switch panel". Mine is an after market installation for sure. My battery charger is a Ray Jefferson model "15-3" Regulated D.C. Battery Guard, for mounting on a vertical surface. It's hung on the back of the bulkhead behind the head, starboard side, and has a simple three prong cord to plug into the duplex outlet in the head. I'm on a mooring so it hardly ever gets used. Bob

I received my quote for a new main today and I was quoted full "tubular" battens. I have no experience with the tubular battens and thought I would ask if anybody here has them? I have had a FB main for years and always thought my main was too flat most of the time. Mark Nashville S2-27 #15 "Witchcraft"

None of that high tech experience here! My old main has 4 traditional pockets and fiberglass battens 22.5 to 29" long. And it's hardly ever very flat! Bob

40 bucks to unstep & re-step? that's a great club benefit! Here's something I found tuning my rigging last spring after a chain plate repair. I tried the halyard to toe rail measuring scheme, but it just felt too stretchy and inaccurate, so I clipped the end of a 100' steel tape measure to the halyard and hoisted it up to the top. This felt So Much more accurate to center the masthead. A 50' tape would work on this boat, of course. Bob

Hi Rick, I'll be looking at that job soon too. Thanks for the preview. Epoxy filling the stand-off tubes is a good idea. I might try one of the putty style epoxies like a PC7 before trying to pour West System resin in there. It might get pretty warm and make bubbles curing in that much volume. Although mixing in the light fairing compound should help. Notch some wood blocks and clamp them to drill out the center. Did you have to take down the teak handrails inside the cabin? It a little tight to get at the fasteners under them, but haven't tried yet. Thanks, Bob

Nice system. Looks like the plastic hinge folds over the lifeline and the vertical slat carries the weight. Do you unstep the mast every winter? Retune the rig with a gauge or eyeball? Bob

Not Yet. I'll be doing the same project soon. Bob

Mark Why not use wood clamps to hold them in place while the hatch is in an open position? My port hatch plywood started to rot in the corner. Just a little rot. I thickened up epoxy and put a ton of duct tape over the repair..it actually worked perfectly... Then again I have used strange methods in the past viz.. O. My old boat I wanted to install a depth sounder w/o drilling a hole in hull. Everyone recommended the oil filled tune method epoxied into inside of hull. Instead of doing all that work I took some toilet bowl set wax and placed the transducer in a blob of wax in the hull (interior). Worked perfectly, amd the current boat owner told me it works fine after 6 years. Actually toilet bowl wax seems to harden somewhat in cooler temps and could be used to fix a leak in a pinch. I carry a ring of wax on board. Rick

I do have a question for this little group. Have any of you had to replace the plywood that is glued to the underside of the lazarette hatches? Mine are rotten and I intend to replace them as soon as the weather gets warmer. It looks like they are just 3/8 ply epoxied to the vertical surface. Since the hatches are riveted on I guess they will have to be done in place, not sure what I will get into trying to get the old off. Then holding them in place waiting on the resin to set could be a problem since there are no screws to hold them. Mark #15

Thanks for the info, Mark. How about the backstays? Did you split the bimini and extend behind them? Bob

Hello Mark, Let me second Rick's welcome to the group. My boat has middle aged main, 135 and a cruising chute by Winters. You might inquire there, as they've done at least one set for the S2 27. I'd be interested in the ice box pump set up you used, as well as any bimini info you can pass along. Bob