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i haven't seen any torque specs unfortunately - there are some standard torque specs for certain size/grade stainless bolts - my guess is 100 ft lbs is probably ok - that is what i sort of did.

i'll take a pix of my backing plate - 3/16" stainless plate about 2 x 2" with rounded corners and tapered edges to prevent any hard spots. it seems that mild steel washers are common on lots of boats

yes, in most salty water - long island sound. the one near the mast seems to get wet due to water coming in from the mast. re the interior pan to hull joint - its interesting that you have same issue

Here's a little pictorial of the chainplate area core repair I had to do last spring instead of launch early... http://taylorsmill.com/boatweb/Core Patch.htm

I've been wondering about my rusty keel blot washers too. Why in the world wouldn't they have been stainless? I would like to replace them this spring as they are pretty crumbly. How tight do we

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote: [snip]Once the rails are done, I reach a decision point...do I take the stand off tubes and bed them onto the

Hey Rick, My keel bolts look similarly rusty to those in photo #5. No real backing plates, per se, only large washers (~1.5" diameter) made from mild steel, and very rusted. Washers are bedded with 3M

Are you in salt water? mine still look like new except for the one near the mast. I have cleaned them up from time to time but very little rust. It looks like maybe the nuts are not stainless. I also

Interested in seeing what other folks bilge and keel bolts look like - especially the backing plates. i posted in files section some bilge shots when I first purchased the boat - i added some

Hi Rick, Yes, go ahead and spot sand and fill the checks. One hint for fillers; try to make sure you don't use a lighter color to fill with. It's much less distracting to use filler slightly darker

Bob these are the back part (inside) of the rail. So won't be seen. Could I spot grind those areas, then fill/varnish? Thx. Sent on the Sprint? Now Network from my BlackBerry?

Woops. Those deep checks need to be filled before the varnish goes on. Finish can't really act as a filler there. You might try to spot the dips with varnish for a few days but keep in mind as the

OK - so i am on coat #3 of varnish: first coat - 50% thinned. second coat - 25% thinned 3rd coat I just did (20 min ago) - and posted pix in photo section. I am getting these valleys of no coverage in

That must be a nice cruising area - do you go up to Chicago or St Joe, MI or further? Went to school at IU Bloomington, a friend was from South Bend so went up there a few times. Rick

I like the Epifanes finish system because it allows me to thin the first coat to 50% to get a very deep penetration. If the subsequent coats go on promptly and are thinned progressively less, I feel

My friend used bristol on his coronado 25 weatherboards - they look beautiful - it was a rich red color and mirror gloss. But the stuff costs 2X epifanes...or in my case West Marine 5 star high gloss.

Has anyone tried Bristol Finish? It is a two-part product, and I have heard that it is extremely durable. The PO of my boat used Epifanes on my handrails back in 2006, and they are now peeling/flaking

Hi Rick & Mark, Agreed, Epifanes is very good material. This fall I used several gallons on an architectural restoration. Their recommendation to thin the first coats and work up to full strength is

Rick, I just finished my hand rails for the 6th time. Once they are clean and sanded I hand rub three or four coats of tongue oil into the wood letting each coat dry for 24 hours or so. Next I sand