Not Yet. I'll be doing the same project soon.

Bob

Mark

Why not use wood clamps to hold them in place while the hatch is in an open position? My port hatch plywood started to rot in the corner. Just a little rot. I thickened up epoxy and put a ton of duct tape over the repair..it actually worked perfectly...

Then again I have used strange methods in the past viz.. O. My old boat I wanted to install a depth sounder w/o drilling a hole in hull. Everyone recommended the oil filled tune method epoxied into inside of hull. Instead of doing all that work I took some toilet bowl set wax and placed the transducer in a blob of wax in the hull (interior). Worked perfectly, amd the current boat owner told me it works fine after 6 years. Actually toilet bowl wax seems to harden somewhat in cooler temps and could be used to fix a leak in a pinch. I carry a ring of wax on board.

Rick

I do have a question for this little group. Have any of you had to replace
the plywood that is glued to the underside of the lazarette hatches? Mine
are rotten and I intend to replace them as soon as the weather gets warmer.
It looks like they are just 3/8 ply epoxied to the vertical surface. Since
the hatches are riveted on I guess they will have to be done in place, not
sure what I will get into trying to get the old off. Then holding them in
place waiting on the resin to set could be a problem since there are no
screws to hold them.

Mark
#15

Bob,

My Bimini extends aft of the backstay about even with the rail. I had them
just put two 5 inch round holes in the top to allow the backstays to pass
through. It does reduce the amount the adjuster will move but it is fine
for cruising. We put zippers on each side so the backstays don't have to be
disconnected to install or remove the top.



Thanks for the info, Mark.
How about the backstays? Did you split the bimini and extend behind them?

Bob

Thanks for the info, Mark.
How about the backstays? Did you split the bimini and extend behind them?

Bob

开云体育

Hello Mark,

Let me second Rick's welcome to the group.
My boat has middle aged main, 135 and a cruising chute by Winters. You might inquire there, as they've done at least one set for the S2 27.

I'd be interested in the ice box pump set up you used, as well as any bimini info you can pass along.

Bob

Thanks for the welcome Rick,

What mods and upgrades have I done? The early things are roller furler,
lazy jacks, all lines aft with clutches, adjustable topping lift, Harken
traveler and spinnaker gear. Then Bimini Top, cockpit cushions, folding nav
table and stereo system. Breaker electrical panel upgraded wiring,
instruments, it still has the Loran installed, GPS, VHF and Ham radios.
Put pump on the ice box to pump overboard through the galley drain instead
of draining in the bilge. Installed sea (lake) water pressure wash down
pump with outlet in cockpit. I put a large padeye in the cockpit for
temporary installation of a mainsheet so I can single hand easier.

I have rebuilt all of the pumps on the boat including the head several
times. The engine is original in all respects other than filters and one
throttle cable. It still runs like new and will start in below freezing
weather with only a few cranks. I have taken the boat down the river to
Kentucky Lake (200 miles one way) several times and have run the engine for
12 hours a day at 3200 r.p.m. without a miss or hiccup. My boat will cruise
at about 6.5 knots unless I overload it, I did get 24 statue miles per
gallon on one of my trips average upstream and downstream.

The interior still has the original cushions and drapes. We take them home
every couple of years and clean everything up. I have had to re-glue the
headliner several times but it is still original as are the cushions and
curtains. I have had to re-bed the chain plates every couple of years and
the deck hardware only once. I have replaced the running rigging every five
or six years. Since the boat is in the water all year long it takes a
beating from the elements but has held up very well, I have it pulled every
4 or 5 years for a bottom job. The only blisters have been on the keel,
never one on the hull or the rudder. I have a two blade fixed prop and have
always thought I would put a feathering on it but never found the deal I was
happy with.

Sails are 110, 155 heavy, 155 Mylar, 150 nylon light, 3/4 oz spinnaker, and
shopping for a new main.

I live less than a mile from the club so I can get there after work and
before dinner. It makes a huge difference it my ability to take care of it.
We have toyed with the idea of taking it to the Florida Panhandle for a year
or two but not yet, maybe when I retire, which is not far away.

I tried to upload a picture but I am apparently limited for some reason. It
let me create an album but not upload.

Mark

Mark,

Welcome to the group!

I know there are only a few of us... But they only made 85 boats. My hope in forming the yahoo group was to identify maybe 20% of us if lucky....

Thanks for the thoughts on the handrails. Waiting for a snow/rain free day here in Connecticut in order to sand down the rails. I need to teak clean/brighten the rails so need to wait for warmer weather...but for sure can fix some of the stand-off tubes in basement

Regarding the main, I have what may be an original main and a ca. 2004 Kevlar racing main (north). I noticed that the Kevlar Main has less roach then the original UK main. The backstay really interferes with a "roachy" main and is a real hassle in light air. The Kevlar is nice, she sails well with her and the 150 genny.

I have hull #28 and have owned her since 2007 having upgrade from a Tanzer 22. Was lucky that the P.O. installed new diesel engine and running rigging. This year I'm doing some minor updates -- new steaming/deck light, fixing the profurl furler - needs a new $20 titanium screw, new starboard foot block (replaced the port foot block in fall), refinish boards and rails, and refitting a new raw water intake, and maybe installling a new battery isolator.

What work have you done since 87?

Rick

Nice to find a group of S2-27 owners. My name is Mark and I live in
Nashville TN. I own hull number 15 laid in 85. I have owned my boat since
1987. It is located at Harbor Island Yacht Club on Old Hickory lake just
east of Nashville. I have done lots of upgrades over the years and just
can't find any reason to buy another boat. Although I have raced it over
the years it is not my primary interest. I spent 15 years on the foredeck
of a J22 and that was enough for me.

My handrails and hatch boards are in the garage right now getting fresh
varnish for about the 5th or 6th time. BTW, a trick on filling the stand
off tubes is to use a hole saw and cut pieces of teak then epoxy them in the
tube. The guide hole of the hole saw centers the 1/4 inch bolt and they
don't rot out.

I am in the market for a new mainsail, any thoughts? I am thinking roughly
3/4 battens for the top three and a loose foot, big roach, one reef and a
Cunningham.

Mark

My battery charger is a Dytek. There is precious little info on the internet on these chargers, since they are apparently out of business. In addition, my boat didn't come with a Dytek owners manual or original literature. Do any of you know if this is original (OEM) equipment on the S2 27? I *do* know that Hunter used them on some of their boats. Some internet references refer to them as "fry-tek", meaning they cook the batteries. From that disparaging reference, I assume that they are not modern 3 or 4 stage chargers, with a float cycle. Anybody have any literature they would be willing to post? BTW, I have two group 24 batteries on my boat. Thanks!

Dave S.
1987 S2 27 "Clio"
Hull #80

Here are some edited versions of messages I posted on the S2 Yahoo site a few years ago. Although I had an S2 7.3 back then, I hope that my experience will be of value.

On my (old) S2 7.3, I also had to deal with the rotted wood dowels that were inside the stainless steel stand-off tubes. Years of neglect by the PO led to water infiltration, which rotted the wood dowels inside the tubes (nearly all of them!) I found a dowel rod (broom handle, actually) that was the exact O.D. as the stand-off tube's I.D, cut them to length (note, one end was NOT flush cut, rather angled slightly), drilled them, sealed them with WEST, including the inside of the newly-drilled bolt hole, then re-bedded properly during the re-installation. The installation was a two person job, with one of us outside and one inside. Keep in mind that the handrails are "bent" into place...start at one end, and press the rail down as you work toward the other end. Another note: keep track of which stand-off tube goes where. Mine were not all identical lengths/angles. The angled end of the stainless steel stand-off tubes fits on the deck to compensate for the slope of the deck, with the acute angle oriented "out and down" when looked at from the side. I used 4200 as sealant, since it remains flexible and is way easier to remove than 5200. Allow the 4200 to cure for 24 hours prior to snugging down the rails tightly. Don't allow the bolt to turn when you do this, or you'll break the 4200 seal--only turn the nut on the inside!

And yes, the bolts on my 7.3 came in different lengths, too, so I kept track of which one went where.

After removing the handrails and before installation, I sanded the handrails, then treated them with Starbright Teak Brightener, allowed them to dry, then re-sanded. Used four coats of Cetol Light on the handrails, followed-up with two coats of Cetol Gloss. During the three weeks that the handrails were off the boat, I used a small piece of duct tape over each hole in the deck to keep the rain out. I also checked the deck core around each hole for rot, reamed out the rot where necessary, filled those with thickened epoxy, and re-drilled.

OK. Now the PO of my 27 did the same job on my boat, but he filled the standoff tubes with thickened epoxy, then drilled out the bolt holes on a drill press. IMHO, this is a better fix for the long term, although my WEST "dowel job" will serve the new owner of my old 7.3 for years to come.

Sorry that this post was a bit windy, but I hope these comments are of some value.

Dave S.
1987 S2 27
Hull #80

Hi Rick,

I'll be looking at that job soon too. Thanks for the preview. Epoxy filling the stand-off tubes is a good idea. I might try one of the putty style epoxies like a PC7 before trying to pour West System resin in there. It might get pretty warm and make bubbles curing in that much volume. Although mixing in the light fairing compound should help. Notch some wood blocks and clamp them to drill out the center.

Did you have to take down the teak handrails inside the cabin? It a little tight to get at the fasteners under them, but haven't tried yet.

Thanks,

Bob

Nice system. Looks like the plastic hinge folds over the lifeline and the vertical slat carries the weight. Do you unstep the mast every winter? Retune the rig with a gauge or eyeball?

Bob

posted some pictures of my winter cover frame - a carpenter friend of mine designed this so the frame ribs fold up for easy storage.

If you look closely at one of the ribs, you;ll see a red patch between the wood - this is actually piece of shower pan liner - screwed into the wood. It folds easily and is stable.

Rick

So part of my winter fun is refinishing the handrails. A pain to remove as one of the nuts was stuck to a bolt, and then I accidentally cut the wrong bolt...so now I have to get 2 new bolts.

At any rate, the handrails are attached by 5 stainless tubular supports - inside the tube is a piece of teak rounded to fit inside the stainless tube to support the bolt as it goes thru the tube and into the deck.

Of course several of the teak pieces inside several of the tubes are completely rotted. And the inner diameter of the tube does not appear to be a standard size. Any thoughts on how to cut some new teak pieces for the stainless tube?

My other approach was to fill the tubes with epoxy so they'll never rot.

Rick
s/v Esperance
S2 27, Hull #42

Ditto on all counts: My boat is #50, 1GM10, 2 blade prop, fixed. About 5 knots max.

My external oil line on the lower port side began leaking this summer. It appears to be rusted through where the retainer clip wraps around it. I ordered all three new lines from Torrensen and they informed me that the leaking one was no longer available even from Yanmar! The other replacements are copper tubing brazed to the banjo fittings. Looks like I'll have to do the same to the old fittings, unless there's another source for new old stock out there.

Thanks,

Bob

I have an '85 S2-27. Have same engine and a martec folding 2-blade prop. The boat is definetly underpowered. It should have a 2gm-10.

I rarely get above 5.1 knots, but rarely have motored sans wind, tide and clean bottom...;)

Thanks.

Rick Perret
+1 203 545 9598

Sent from mobile device.

Just curious. Which engine do you have in your 27? My boat is hull #80, built in 1987 (modified cabin layout, as shown in the '87 brochure in the "photo" section). My engine is a Yanmar 1GM10, with a small two blade fixed prop. The boat is much underpowered, IMHO. I can manage about 5.5 kts at 3200 rpm with a clean bottom and no wind or current.

How about yours? Year, hull #, engine, and performance?

According to page 20 of my 1987 Owner's Manual, the mainsail area is 172 sq ft, and the class jib (whatever *that* means) is 170 sq ft, for a total of 342 sq ft with both. Don't know if the class jib is 100% or larger, though, since my sails are not original. Regardless, IMHO, 222 sq ft for a 100% seems much too large...

--Dave