Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- S227Yachts
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers - DONE
This was easier than I thought.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bilge was pretty clean after the absorbant mats sat for a week... The banjo bolts for both pipes came off easily. I had to remove my raw water intake tube as it was blocking access. The shorter lube pipe had some surface rust along some of its length, and at the port banjo fitting closest to the water pump. But there were no holes. The longer pipe was the problem. As others have said the water seal in the pump fails, causing it to leak, the it drips along the engine until it hits the retaining clip for the longer pipe...that causes water to then drip down the tube. The new pipes arrive unfinished....For the longer pipe I painted with primocon primer and a couple costs of rustoleum...what i had in garage at the time. I plan to cover the pipe with some left over rubber hose. I also did not install the retaining clip i have to clean it as it was still rusty....will reinstall later...for the shorter pipe i smothered the exterior with lancote. Banjo bolts were torqued down to 150 in-lbs. I read somewhere that the if the water pump seals fail on these engines, the pump is designed to leak...not sure if this is urban legend or for real... at any rate i am going to watch that pump like a hawk....and i may stick on some kind of small "dam" just under and to right of the pump on the lower engine block in hopes of diverting any leak straigh down...not sure how to do that... i kept old part as i may go to a shop and see if the can weld new pipes to the banjo fittings as a backup, or simply use flexible break hose or the like.... Ran motor for about 20 min....no leaks..tomorrow i'll see if there is any leakage. hopefully i'm set for a few more years.... Next job after mid Oct haulout is new cutless bearing and dripless stuffing box! That job might be a bit more involved... --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
Yep, the pipe and banjo fittings are assembled. My parts manual shows them in a drawing so I never thought to order otherwise. When they were out of stock I tried to make the front pipe from 8mm stainless pipe and the fittings I un-sweated from the old one. After all that aggravation, and having a weepy joint anyway, the price of the new ones seemed rather reasonable. The lasting benefit of that project is a leftover piece of 1/4" tubing that fits my dipstick oil pump inlet and reaches to the bottom of the fuel tank. I've pulled some watery fuel out a couple times now in the spring.
As for cleaning the bilge, I tried all sorts of soapy stuff early on, but it was always a mess. When there was a couple inches of water from the stuffing box and half a quart of oil from the engine all happening at once, I found that letting an absorber sheet or two float in there for a few days would get 99.5% of the oil. Pull the sheets and bag them for disposal. Pump the water into a bucket, mix in some soap to lather up the last few drops. Correct me if I have sinned, but this went over the side with no sheen or residue. Then a pretty simple soap & water scrub out of the bilge was all it took. I've had a clean sheet under the engine all season now. Just a few dirty drips from checking the oil. I remember struggling with wrench clearance... Maybe a short adjustable opened way up? (I had a hard time finding a metric one...) |
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
that's how they make a profit!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
BTW - see my prior response to Bob regarding parts nomenclature... Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
Bob
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks - i just received the order. Are there any installation tips here? It seems fairly straightforward - and i can probably find the torque settings somewhere in the yanmar manual somewhere. ALSO: folks should note that the lube oil pipes ALREADY have the pipe joint bolts (not the Banjo bolts) already brazed onto the pipe. I ordered the pipe joint bolts and now have to return the bolts....so be forewarned! Will let you all know how the install goes - most of the time spent will be cleaning the 1Quart+ of diesel fuel that spilled into the bilge under the engine.....sigh Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
Whoa! Those Yanmar oil pipes are spendy...what are they made out of...platinum? Sheesh. And they rust out, to boot!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--Dave S. --- In s227classassociation@..., s227classassociation-owner@... wrote:
|
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
Thanks guys - spoke to Torresen, I will post the parts diagram and part numbers in the files section..
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
I got my replacement oil pipes from Torresen.com. They have some regional sales district restrictions though. The first time I ordered, they were out of stock on the long one. It's a very common failure point due to the water pump dripping on it and rusting it out behind the retainer clip. I left the retainer clip off.
The banjo bolts are reusable. Get new copper washers though, with extras. Bob |
|
Re: Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
Sorry that I don't know the part numbers, but I suspect that the folks at Torresen Marine do ()
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Their phone number is 231-759-8596. I wasn't aware that the oil pipe could be a potential problem...thanks for the heads-up. --- In s227classassociation@..., s227classassociation-owner@... wrote:
|
|
Leaky oil pipe syndrome...part numbers
j have the infamous leaking oil pipe, discovered tonite after motoring to mooring...and seeing black water in the bilge...ugh...knew it would happen. oil pressure alarm didn't go off, and i didn't have time to check further...suspect it's a slow leak...bit enough to make the water black..
does amy know part numbers for the pipes, and related hardware? assume i need banjo bolt and new washer? or could i reuse the banjo bolt and just get new pipe and washer? thx! |
|
Re: Availability of replacement rollers for Lewmar traveler?
maajique
I replaced my original traveler on the cabin top with a Schafer system, I may still have the original travler stops and car. Send me a picture of what you want and I will take a look.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Jim --- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" <mark_swart@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: New Thread: PSS shaft seal
Longer version:
The 3/4 shaft size is not often stocked by dealers. I ordered direct from PYI. I had the engine out for oil issues and found the cutless bearing to be sloppy too. The prop came off easily so I pulled the shaft from inside. I did replace the cutless bearing. Subsequent attempts to pull the shaft coupling were abandoned. (I've already broken enough cast iron parts over the years...) Assembling the shaftseal this way means the shaft has to be super clean since the rotor has o-rings inside and it's a long slide. Of course there was bottom paint to strip off and polishing to do. I lubed the o-rings, but I don't remember what with at this moment. I ran the vent tube as far up as poss in the space between the companionway steps and the cockpit. It's not the two feet above waterline that they ask for but if I'm knocked down that far, a 3/8" hose is not going to make much difference in the amount of water coming in. The toughest part was aligning the shaft collar & engine. If you are lucky enough to get yours apart at the coupling, great. I pulled my water tank out of the portside locker and took out the plywood divider to get decent access. If you are doing this without pulling the engine, I bet this would still be the best way to get to the parts. Ever see the Yogi that stuffs himself in a box? Think small. It wasn't too bad, actually. The length of shaft between the log tube and the transmission was just enough in my case. I don't know if there is much variation between boats. You may want to measure ahead of time. There are a couple of photos of the completed installation posted in the "Details" folder. Hope this helps. Bob |
|
Re: Availability of replacement rollers for Lewmar traveler?
i've replaced rollers on my harken...i lost about 8 torlon balls when removing the track, i wrote to harken. not only did they send me the balls for free, the also sent me the car ball loader. ball for free and no shipping charge...
via iPad |
|
Availability of replacement rollers for Lewmar traveler?
MarkS
Last year I bought a Harken traveler car, but the catch is I have to replace the track to fit the car (T track). The reason I did this is because one of the rollers for the original Lewmar traveler had broken. Once I took it apart, I saw that the rollers are actually replaceable. Looked on Lewmar's site but couldn't find anything, has anyone else had a problem with or replaced these rollers? I'm 2 hours from the boat for the next year, so if I could get it back to a correctly performing stock setup I can always finish the Harken conversion later once I am closer.
Thanks! -Mark |
|
Re: New Thread: PSS shaft seal
Mark Swart
Mine has one, was on it when I got the boat. Never leaked until we moved the boat. It was out about a month, then the weekend we launched it leaked. Since then it has stopped. I'm guessing a piece of algae had dried in there somehow, then once it all got wet again it went away. I'm a big fan of the dripless. From: Bob Taylor To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 8:02 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: New Thread: PSS shaft seal
?
Short version;
I did it myself, pretty easy. Caveat: I had the engine out. Would I have been able to do it with the engine in place? Probably not. The coupling was absolutely not coming off of the shaft. So I had to put it together from the prop end. That's a little risky; a long way to slide the O rings. I'll find my photos and post them later. |
|
Re: New Thread: PSS shaft seal
Short version;
I did it myself, pretty easy. Caveat: I had the engine out. Would I have been able to do it with the engine in place? Probably not. The coupling was absolutely not coming off of the shaft. So I had to put it together from the prop end. That's a little risky; a long way to slide the O rings. I'll find my photos and post them later. |
|
New Thread: PSS shaft seal
Although this new thread is not S2 27 specific, Bob Taylor mentioned in the engine compartment thread of a few days ago that he had a PSS shaft seal installed on his boat last year, and he hasn't had a drop of water in the bilge (or under the engine?) ever since. Music to my ears. Anyone else here on this list have a PSS shaft seal? I've been thinking about the PSS system since I bought my boat in '08.
Bob, what can you tell us about the process? I seem to recall that they are not UNreasonably priced, but did you have it installed, or did you do it yourself? Was it spendy to have it installed? The PSS website () makes it look pretty easy for the do-it-yourselfer, but hey, but I'm a sucker and have been fooled before! If I were to do this job--or have it done--I'd want to replace the cutless bearing at the same time, since I'd have the shaft disconnected anyway. My cutless bearing is likely as old as the boat. Hey, you lazy lurkers, chime in! Let's get this party started! ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 |
|
Re: Waaay overweight!
I recently ran across an article discussing a production sailboat model where the author pointed out that the shoal draft version had a much heavier keel, but that data was never published in specifications.
My boat is the shoal draft, is yours also? That might account for some of the overage. |
|
Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.
Mark Swart
I used a similar tape on a leaky exhaust hose on a previous boat and it worked fine to get me through the season. The one I bought was red. It should hold up for the scupper. From: uswa174 To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 8:48 PM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.
?
Hey Bob,
Thanks your your tip, too. I couldn't find that product at the local Walgreens, but they has a similar silicone tape product for automobile water pump hoses and radiator hoses at Autozone. Bought a 10 ft roll for 8 bucks. Drove out to the boat after work to find another 2 cups of water in the lazarette, so I mopped up the water, snugged up the hose clamps a bit more, then wrapped cracked area of the hose with the silicone tape. Guess I'll see in a couple of days if that solved the problem (at least in the short term.) I'll keep you posted. Thanks again. ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor wrote: > > Thanks for the tip, Dave. I have worried that those hoses were > vulnerable to impact from something getting loose or snagged on them in > the lockers. My through hulls are just below the waterline and I suspect > they need to be rebedded. When I pull mine out I'll be potting the holes > to avoid core rot. (Or fixing the rot that's already there!) > > There is a 'level wrap' silicon rubber tape that will seal to itself and > might get you to the end of the season. Here's the consumer version... > > http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/mighty-fixit-flexible-silicone-wrap-tape/ID=prod6044187-product > > Bob > |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss