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Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

The part of the scupper that extends through the hull into my lazarettes--and to which the hoses attach--are plastic. I fact, they are threaded where they go through the hull via a kind of large hex nut. If memory serves me correctly (might not), they are mushroom type on the outside of the hull.

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

I was pretty sure the scupper through hulls were plastic, but we won't
know for sure until I can check. They are definitely mushroom head, not
flush.
I would replace the hose with something tougher than that bilge pump
grade stuff that's in there now. I bet it's a total pain to change
unless the trough hull fitting or the cockpit floor flange were removed;
too short to bend.


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

Hey Bob,

Thanks your your tip, too. I couldn't find that product at the local Walgreens, but they has a similar silicone tape product for automobile water pump hoses and radiator hoses at Autozone. Bought a 10 ft roll for 8 bucks. Drove out to the boat after work to find another 2 cups of water in the lazarette, so I mopped up the water, snugged up the hose clamps a bit more, then wrapped cracked area of the hose with the silicone tape. Guess I'll see in a couple of days if that solved the problem (at least in the short term.) I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I have worried that those hoses were
vulnerable to impact from something getting loose or snagged on them in
the lockers. My through hulls are just below the waterline and I suspect
they need to be rebedded. When I pull mine out I'll be potting the holes
to avoid core rot. (Or fixing the rot that's already there!)

There is a 'level wrap' silicon rubber tape that will seal to itself and
might get you to the end of the season. Here's the consumer version...



Bob


Re: engine compartment

 

Yes, there's fiberboard faced plywood in my engine compartment too. Clorox cleanup in a spray bottle is my mold destroyer of choice. Ventilate if you use it inside though.

I did the PSS shaft seal when I had the engine out. This is it's second season and she's bone dry. I used to have a pernicious oil leak so I never considered a bilge pump in there. I would have had a slick leading the EPA & the Coast Guard right up to my transom. I kept absorber sheets in there and hand pumped the water into a bucket. Usually at the end of every weekend along with the ice box melt water from the bilge.

Bob


engine compartment

 

so Friday I finally put in a bilge pump under the engine compartment - i have been getting water from the ever leaky stuffing box - that I may replace this fall - but that is another story for another time...

my 1985 model has in the engine compartment, on the sides - a brown fiberboard on both sides of the engine - do your compartments have the same fiberboard. absolutely stupid design as they have some mold on them - and now trying to figure out how to best clean and or seal it.

of course the root cause is the stuffing box - at least I am 85% sure it's the box - that causes water to gather under the engine...


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

interesting - mine are flush - assume when you look inside that they are mounted on a raised block of solid firberglass (vs thru a cored part of the hull).

agree about mounting issue - i think you could probably remove the cabin floor fitting from the top - hopefully they didn't use 5200 to mount that..)

who ever put my scuppers in used something fairly thick - like exhaust hose or stuffing box hose. they are bone dry

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

I was pretty sure the scupper through hulls were plastic, but we won't
know for sure until I can check. They are definitely mushroom head, not
flush.
I would replace the hose with something tougher than that bilge pump
grade stuff that's in there now. I bet it's a total pain to change
unless the trough hull fitting or the cockpit floor flange were removed;
too short to bend.


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

I was pretty sure the scupper through hulls were plastic, but we won't know for sure until I can check. They are definitely mushroom head, not flush.
I would replace the hose with something tougher than that bilge pump grade stuff that's in there now. I bet it's a total pain to change unless the trough hull fitting or the cockpit floor flange were removed; too short to bend.


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

Bob, are your thru hulls flush or are the bronze mushroom type? Also, are yours beginning to seep seawater into the locker?

i placed a large boat fender between the scuppers and res of lazarette to somewhat protect them. i might fabricate some type of large pvc tube to encase the whole lemgth of scupper to prevent damage. my old boat, a Tanzer 22 had full lemgth fiberglass scuppers molded in.

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I have worried that those hoses were
vulnerable to impact from something getting loose or snagged on them in
the lockers. My through hulls are just below the waterline and I suspect
they need to be rebedded. When I pull mine out I'll be potting the holes
to avoid core rot. (Or fixing the rot that's already there!)

There is a 'level wrap' silicon rubber tape that will seal to itself and
might get you to the end of the season. Here's the consumer version...



Bob


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

i've thought about that too as i never liked the design of those scuppers.

i think you could take a glob of toilet bowl wax and stick it under the hull to close up the hole outside, then make the repair. my question s how do you put the new hose in as the cockpit floor and thru hull fittings leave you with no clearance to insert the hose in i think? or can uou easily remove the cockpit floor fitting pop the hose in, and the re-insert the fitting?

btw, toilet bowl wax is great stuff to have on-board...it can be molded, stops water flow, etc..

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

Just an FYI for y'all with a 27.

I had a minor, but pesky, water leak in my port lazarette, which I found was coming from a cracked scupper hose and a loose hose clamp. I've been getting water in the lazarette when heeled to port on starboard tack. I always thought that the hoses were a potential failure point, and in fact they are. My hose was pretty well dry rotted and cracked.

Has anyone on this list replaced one of these hoses with the boat in the water? I'm thinking about a short-term fix using a bicycle inner tube repair kit to get me through the rest of the season, then replace the hoses when the boat is on the hard after haul out.

What do y'all think? Anyone else had this problem?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


Re: Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I have worried that those hoses were vulnerable to impact from something getting loose or snagged on them in the lockers. My through hulls are just below the waterline and I suspect they need to be rebedded. When I pull mine out I'll be potting the holes to avoid core rot. (Or fixing the rot that's already there!)

There is a 'level wrap' silicon rubber tape that will seal to itself and might get you to the end of the season. Here's the consumer version...



Bob


Check those scupper hoses, people.

 

Just an FYI for y'all with a 27.

I had a minor, but pesky, water leak in my port lazarette, which I found was coming from a cracked scupper hose and a loose hose clamp. I've been getting water in the lazarette when heeled to port on starboard tack. I always thought that the hoses were a potential failure point, and in fact they are. My hose was pretty well dry rotted and cracked.

Has anyone on this list replaced one of these hoses with the boat in the water? I'm thinking about a short-term fix using a bicycle inner tube repair kit to get me through the rest of the season, then replace the hoses when the boat is on the hard after haul out.

What do y'all think? Anyone else had this problem?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


Re: Fuel Tank Update

Mark Swart
 

Victory -- Congrats! I'm also 99 percent sure that if she ran for 45 minutes with no problems, it will be fine as far as air in the line goes. The 1GMs are pretty forgiving.


Fuel Tank Update

 

Once I had the leaking fuel tank removed and I cleaned it really well on the inside, I took it to an aluminum welding shop in the area. Their overall assessment of the tank was that it was actually in really good shape. The PO apparently sealed up some prior leaks on the bottom with J-B Weld or something similar. One of those "repairs" blew out, causing the leakage. The welding company removed all of the J-B Weld, then dye tested the tank, and found six additional leaks on the bottom! They spot welded the leaks for a total cost of $50.

I have now re-installed the tank. It was a tight squeeze through the lazarette, and horsing the tank back into place was no easy task while lying on my back. The fill hose was the biggest challenge, since it is only 8" long and inflexible. I replaced the hose, since it was deteriorating on the inside. I added two gallons of diesel fuel (no leaks!), and started up the engine. There was still fuel in the primary filter and the fuel lines, so interestingly enough, I didn't need to bleed the system. Just to be sure there was no air in the lines, I ran the engine for about 45 minutes in the slip (hopefully, there aren't any air bubbles further up the system.) It's all good! :D

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on the project...much appreciated!


Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

Mark Swart
 

I think that sounds like a great solution. One other thing I noticed last week when I was in my lazarette, it looks like a solid piece of plywood under the tank? If so (and if I already had the tank out) I might considering drilling some 1 inch holes in an evenly spaced pattern. That would help air circulation under it without compromising any strength.


Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

 

Update on the fuel tank problem.

I pressure tested the tank using my 12 volt tire inflator and some dishwashing liquid, and found a single pinhole leak on the bottom at a corrosion site. The hole was not visible to the naked eye...really small, in other words.

I took the tank to the local aluminum welding shop. They will "zap" the pinhole that I found, but they will also "dye test" the tank for other leaks. If they find more, they will zap those as well, and possibly weld on an aluminum plate to cover the corrosion. I should have it back later today or early next week. Overall, an inexpensive fix that should last a long time.

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Welding on a new bottom plate sounds like the best fix to me, also. No
fittings to change. Now I want to look at my setup! If they capillary
water underneath maybe we should block it up on some 1/8" plastic strips
to avoid the moisture trap.
By the way, my tank hold more like 18 gallons.

Bob


On 7/19/2012 9:59 PM, uswa174 wrote:

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is
model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986. Yours
is likely identical. A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a
six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high
school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since
junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do? Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10
miles away) and see what they can do? Cover the bottom with JB-Weld,
and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside
with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel
tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it
with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not
really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions? Another option?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <>
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2437/5141 - Release Date: 07/19/12


Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

 

Regarding the mounting of the fuel tank, the OEM manufacturer stated the following in the quote for a new tank:

"FMT recommends tank to have a fully supported bottom with ?" neoprene rubber strips separating tank with support, and tank to be strapped or bracketed down."

--Dave S.

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Welding on a new bottom plate sounds like the best fix to me, also. No
fittings to change. Now I want to look at my setup! If they capillary
water underneath maybe we should block it up on some 1/8" plastic strips
to avoid the moisture trap.
By the way, my tank hold more like 18 gallons.

Bob


On 7/19/2012 9:59 PM, uswa174 wrote:

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is
model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986. Yours
is likely identical. A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a
six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high
school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since
junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do? Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10
miles away) and see what they can do? Cover the bottom with JB-Weld,
and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside
with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel
tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it
with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not
really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions? Another option?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


------------------------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <>
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2437/5141 - Release Date: 07/19/12


New poll for s227classassociation

 

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
s227classassociation group:

Do you own an S2 27? (some group members are not currently owners so checking who currently has the boat...

o Yes
o No


To vote, please visit the following web page:


Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.

Thanks!


Trailer Dimensions.....

 

Does anyone have handy their trailer dimensions for a custom S2 27? I might look at a trailer that was used for a J/27 - somewhat narrower, longer boat,

thx
Rick


Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

 

I have a broader question. What was the cause of the corrosion on your fuel tank, and why was it so bad as to cause a leak? This makes me wonder what kind of preventive measures should we be instituting to prevent this from happening on our own boats?

Since you have the tank out, measuring it will be easy. ?Surely there any other manufacturers of marine fuel tanks who could fabricate this? ?I don't know if $500 is a reasonable number for something like this, but I'd go with a newly fabricated tank given the trouble of getting it in and out of the boat. You'd be good for another 25 years with a new tank.


Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Welding on a new bottom plate sounds like the best fix to me, also. No fittings to change. Now I want to look at my setup! If they capillary water underneath maybe we should block it up on some 1/8" plastic strips to avoid the moisture trap.
By the way, my tank hold more like 18 gallons.

Bob


On 7/19/2012 9:59 PM, uswa174 wrote:

?

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986. Yours is likely identical. A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do? Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10 miles away) and see what they can do? Cover the bottom with JB-Weld, and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions? Another option?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2437/5141 - Release Date: 07/19/12




Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

 

sorry dave..just saw your mentioning por-15....,brain is fried tonite..

how long do you plan on keeping the boat? if this is a keeper i would prob bite the bullet and get a new tank. do the make "bladder style" flexible tanks rhat might be less? how about trying a smaller tank?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:


kopcoat..the folks that make por-15. have some fuel tank repair kits. maybe worth a try?





--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986. Yours is likely identical. A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do? Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10 miles away) and see what they can do? Cover the bottom with JB-Weld, and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions? Another option?


___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80