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Re: Racing the S2 27 - need more speed!
Joe,
sounds like you like to race. ? as far as pointing as high as others the only question is a 155 genny. ?you have to power up quick. with a 155 you have plenty of power with 5000# but may quickly over power you. the 155 will close the slot behind the main, allowing the main to be down powered and the boat probably goes to the Lee side IE loss of the ability to point. i cruise with a 135 and balanced helm up to around 12 knots and @6.3 knots 15 degrees heel. i would suggest a smaller head sail than 155 genny. A clean bottom does have an impact on pointing always. this boat likes 12 to 17 degrees of heel and a balanced helm. i do have the polars for a s2 27. they are real close to my boat. i will send them to ya if you desire them. the S2 7.9 tuning guide is a great guide for your boat. use the new mast specs. for your rig.? Nolan? nucdad1@... |
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Re: Racing the S2 27 - need more speed!
With my 150% I set the jib car on the track just aft of where the cabin top ends.? I move it slightly forward in lighter air and back in heavier air.? Downwind for me is the weakest point of sail for this boat.? I find that moving weight forward helps considerably.? If you have some extra crew send them forward with a couple of beers on the downwind legs. My biggest problem going to weather is trimming the main sheet.? I have the cabin top traveler and it's not very tweakable. It's important to get the boom up to center line without cranking down so hard that you take all the shape out of the sail.? Do you have the cabin top or cockpit traveler on yours?? I don't race often any more but have always been competitive with the boat.? Took first place overall in Kentucky Lake Race Week last fall.? And that was with the boat loaded down with full cruising gear (beer). From: "fultonjoe@... [s227classassociation]" To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 11:20 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Racing the S2 27 - need more speed!
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Hello all, I club race my boat. ?I just got a new headsail, it is a poly laminate/mylar sail, so more high tech than Dacron. ?My main is still an older Dacron sail. ?I still got beat pretty badly last night by the competition. ?We race JAM against two wing keel boats (San Juan 28 and Catalina 28) and four others, a Morgan 27, Tartan 28, Ericson 32, and a J 24. Even with the new head sail all of the boats out pointed me when going to weather. ?We held our ground on the next leg, beam reach. ?Finish was downwind, we lost some more ground there, but we were so far behind we did not set our whisker pole to go wing on wing like the rest of the fleet. I am wondering what the rest of you do to make your boats go fast? ?Specific items I wonder about are: 1.Do you use the inside jib cars or outside tracks Jib car tracks?. ?I tried inside when going to weather and outside on the beam and downwind legs. ? 2. Jib car placement for inside/outside? ?My head sail is a 155%. 3. ?Rig tuning tensions? ?I could not find a specific guide, but I think in one of these posts I read the S2 7.9 tuning guide is a good reference, is this correct? Any advice/references are welcome. ?I understand fully that the problem could just be my crew and my own abilities :) Thanks, Joe |
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Racing the S2 27 - need more speed!
Hello all, I club race my boat. ?I just got a new headsail, it is a poly laminate/mylar sail, so more high tech than Dacron. ?My main is still an older Dacron sail. ?I still got beat pretty badly last night by the competition. ?We race JAM against two wing keel boats (San Juan 28 and Catalina 28) and four others, a Morgan 27, Tartan 28, Ericson 32, and a J 24. Even with the new head sail all of the boats out pointed me when going to weather. ?We held our ground on the next leg, beam reach. ?Finish was downwind, we lost some more ground there, but we were so far behind we did not set our whisker pole to go wing on wing like the rest of the fleet. I am wondering what the rest of you do to make your boats go fast? ?Specific items I wonder about are: 1.Do you use the inside jib cars or outside tracks Jib car tracks?. ?I tried inside when going to weather and outside on the beam and downwind legs. ? 2. Jib car placement for inside/outside? ?My head sail is a 155%. 3. ?Rig tuning tensions? ?I could not find a specific guide, but I think in one of these posts I read the S2 7.9 tuning guide is a good reference, is this correct? Any advice/references are welcome. ?I understand fully that the problem could just be my crew and my own abilities :) Thanks, Joe |
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Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI didn¡¯t know this was a known problem. Mine does this but I just have gotten used to it. Not a big confidence booster but my Yanmar always fires up after a couple of clicks.Thanks for the heads up! Frank
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Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
Thanks so much, Brian. ?Excellent write -up! ?
Suffice it to say, I have really been frustrated by this starting problem.
I think that I'll give your solution a try. ?
?
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Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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? -----Original Message-----
From: "bsmokler@... [s227classassociation]" [s227classassociation@...] Date: 06/28/2016 11:55 AM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem ? Hi Dave,
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The Yanmar wiring issue is frustrating isn't it? ?I can't think of a worse way to drive off family members than the dreaded "click of death" from the starting system. ?My 2GM20F has the same issue.
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You can run 2 new, heavier, and properly tinned (marine grade) wires from the starting switch connections on the back of the panel to the starter solenoid connections that will "bypass" the degraded wire in the factory harness. This will allow you continue to use the factory starting button. ?Here is a pretty good instruction page on this solution from a Tartan owner with a 3GM series.
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Alternately, what I did on my boat was an easier solution that didn't involve me crawling into the area behind the head to get to the wires on the back of the control panel. ?I got a marine momentary contact electrical switch (a starter switch) from West Marine, 12ga marine wire (Anco 2 conductor jacketed marine), a marine sealed fuse holder, and a 30 amp fuse. ?My tool kit already has a selection of marine grade crimp-on ring and spade connectors, butt splice connectors etc. I fabricated ring connectors on to the 12ga and fastened them to the bolt/screw for the large (red) and small (white) wire connection points on the starter solenoid. On the larger (red) high current side I connected the fuse block to my wire and then connected that to one of the leads on the starter switch. ?The other side of the starter switch I connected to the smaller white wire connector on the solenoid. Basically, this is a fused version of taking a screwdriver to the leads on the starter solenoid or connecting a mechanic's style pistol grip remote starter switch to the solenoid. ?I mounted the switch in the side of the engine compartment near where the steps connect to the "engine hatch." ?There is just enough room to mount the switch on the side where the port cabinet next to the engine compartment is. It's hidden, and can't be easily kicked or pressed, unless you intentionally mean to access it.?
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I hope this make sense. ?I don't have any pictures of my set up, but when my factory switch just clicks, my auxiliary switch spins the engine with authority.
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Brian
S/V Pressure Drop
1986 S2-27 #46
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Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
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On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:53 PM, bsmokler@... [s227classassociation] <s227classassociation@...> wrote:
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Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
Hi Dave,
The Yanmar wiring issue is frustrating isn't it? ?I can't think of a worse way to drive off family members than the dreaded "click of death" from the starting system. ?My 2GM20F has the same issue. You can run 2 new, heavier, and properly tinned (marine grade) wires from the starting switch connections on the back of the panel to the starter solenoid connections that will "bypass" the degraded wire in the factory harness. This will allow you continue to use the factory starting button. ?Here is a pretty good instruction page on this solution from a Tartan owner with a 3GM series. Alternately, what I did on my boat was an easier solution that didn't involve me crawling into the area behind the head to get to the wires on the back of the control panel. ?I got a marine momentary contact electrical switch (a starter switch) from West Marine, 12ga marine wire (Anco 2 conductor jacketed marine), a marine sealed fuse holder, and a 30 amp fuse. ?My tool kit already has a selection of marine grade crimp-on ring and spade connectors, butt splice connectors etc. I fabricated ring connectors on to the 12ga and fastened them to the bolt/screw for the large (red) and small (white) wire connection points on the starter solenoid. On the larger (red) high current side I connected the fuse block to my wire and then connected that to one of the leads on the starter switch. ?The other side of the starter switch I connected to the smaller white wire connector on the solenoid. Basically, this is a fused version of taking a screwdriver to the leads on the starter solenoid or connecting a mechanic's style pistol grip remote starter switch to the solenoid. ?I mounted the switch in the side of the engine compartment near where the steps connect to the "engine hatch." ?There is just enough room to mount the switch on the side where the port cabinet next to the engine compartment is. It's hidden, and can't be easily kicked or pressed, unless you intentionally mean to access it.? I hope this make sense. ?I don't have any pictures of my set up, but when my factory switch just clicks, my auxiliary switch spins the engine with authority. Brian S/V Pressure Drop 1986 S2-27 #46 |
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Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
Hi Folks,
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I think that most S2 27 boats came with a Yanmar 1GM10. ?
How many of you have the dreaded Yanmar "starting problem," that is, you turn the key, hit the button, and just get a click? ?Hit the button between 2 and 10 more times, and eventually, the starter is energized and the engine starts. ?Apparently, this is due to an undersized wiring harness.
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Have any of you come up with a good solution to this problem (short of changing out the entire wiring harness)?
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Thanks for the input.
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Dave S.
s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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Re: calling all owners
I own #11. '85 racing model. Absolutely LOVE it. Needs a sail inventory upgrade, but she does just fine. I love the performance and comfort. They seemed to get these features spot on!
In case you care:
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For Sale
I wrote: Love the boat, not for sale!
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Oops. Just looked at a local 10.3 and both wife and I are interested in it.? So my 27 *is* for sale. Asking $9,000. If interested please?contact me directly at dhoffman888 @ for more info and photos. Regards, -Doug On Jun 9, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Doug Hoffman <dhoffman888@...> wrote: |
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Re: calling all owners
I have Hull #86, the last one built. ?I sail it in Massachusetts Bay and she has proven to be a sturdy vessel and quick for her size. ?I am the third owner - I bought it completely redone from an older gentleman who sailed it out of Milford, CT. ?I'm not sure where she was prior to that.
Last spring I added a bow sprit and a furling a-sym spinnaker which works quite well once you get used to the nuances. Great boat - highly reccomended ! John |
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Re: calling all owners [1 Attachment]
1985, hull #16 sailing on Ky Lake out of Paris Landing in west Tennessee. Bought her in 1990 and she's still going strong. I'm slowing down a little bit though.? Some friends took this picture a couple years ago. From: "'Dave S.' uswa174@... [s227classassociation]" To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 1:22 PM Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] calling all owners [1 Attachment]
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1987 S2 27, hull #80, fin keel, Model "B" interior.
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Sailing ground: southeastern Lake Michigan (attached photo; Chicago is off on the horizon, about 35 miles away).
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Dave S.
s/v Clio
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-----Original Message-----From: "Doug Hoffman dhoffman888@... [s227classassociation]" [s227classassociation@...] Date: 06/09/2016 08:37 PM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] calling all owners [1 Attachment] ?
1985 S2 27 Hull #3, bought it one year ago from original owner. Has never touched salt water.
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Diesel inboard, Harken roller furling for jib, Harken main traveler on cabin top, not rigged for a spinnaker but I want to add that, anyone got a spinnaker for sale?
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It¡¯s also a hot rod, points high with the deep draft keel, and likes the big rollers here on the Great Lakes. Love the boat, not for sale! ?:-)
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-Doug Hoffman
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photo attached, just before launch a few weeks ago with new bottom paint.
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On Jun 9, 2016, at 8:05 PM, Frank Wiewandt fwphoto@... [s227classassociation]?<s227classassociation@...> wrote:
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Re: calling all owners
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Oops. ?It appears that Doug's photo remained attached to my message. ? Sorry about that. ? ?
~~~~~~~~~~_)~~~~~~~~~
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Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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? -----Original Message-----
From: "'Dave S.' uswa174@... [s227classassociation]" [s227classassociation@...] Date: 06/10/2016 01:22 PM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] calling all owners [1 Attachment] ? ? ? ** ? ?
1987 S2 27, hull #80, fin keel, Model "B" interior.
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Sailing ground: southeastern Lake Michigan (attached photo; Chicago is off on the horizon, about 35 miles away).
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Dave S.
s/v Clio
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?
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Re: calling all owners
1987 S2 27, hull #80, fin keel, Model "B" interior.
?
Sailing ground: southeastern Lake Michigan (attached photo; Chicago is off on the horizon, about 35 miles away).
?
Dave S. s/v Clio
?
? -----Original Message-----
From: "Doug Hoffman dhoffman888@... [s227classassociation]" [s227classassociation@...] Date: 06/09/2016 08:37 PM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] calling all owners [1 Attachment] ? 1985 S2 27 Hull #3, bought it one year ago from original owner. Has never touched salt water.
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Diesel inboard, Harken roller furling for jib, Harken main traveler on cabin top, not rigged for a spinnaker but I want to add that, anyone got a spinnaker for sale?
?
It¡¯s also a hot rod, points high with the deep draft keel, and likes the big rollers here on the Great Lakes. Love the boat, not for sale! ?:-)
?
-Doug Hoffman
?
photo attached, just before launch a few weeks ago with new bottom paint.
?
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On Jun 9, 2016, at 8:05 PM, Frank Wiewandt fwphoto@... [s227classassociation]?<s227classassociation@...> wrote: ?
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Re: calling all owners
1985 S2 27 Hull #3, bought it one year ago from original owner. Has never touched salt water.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Diesel inboard, Harken roller furling for jib, Harken main traveler on cabin top, not rigged for a spinnaker but I want to add that, anyone got a spinnaker for sale? It¡¯s also a hot rod, points high with the deep draft keel, and likes the big rollers here on the Great Lakes. Love the boat, not for sale! ?:-) -Doug Hoffman photo attached, just before launch a few weeks ago with new bottom paint. On Jun 9, 2016, at 8:05 PM, Frank Wiewandt fwphoto@... [s227classassociation]?<s227classassociation@...> wrote: |
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