The manual I was referring to in my previous post was a yanmar 1gm10 manual.

I received my quote for a new main today and I was quoted full "tubular"
battens. I have no experience with the tubular battens and thought I would
ask if anybody here has them? I have had a FB main for years and always
thought my main was too flat most of the time.

Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15 "Witchcraft"

?

tape measure makes more sense for sure. i do notice halyard stretch, when measuring do you account for the fact that the halyard is off center from the mast centerline?

also, you mentioned a chainplate repair. anything we need to double check for? did you have any visible chainplate leaks into the cabin? I don't see any leaks, but do need to remove the covers to check the plate condition between the deck. I remember changing chainplates on my 1973 Tanzer 22- i went to a local machine shop - owned by a local sailor - he fabricate plates for $75.

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@yahoogroups.com, Bob Taylor .> wrote:
>
> 40 bucks to unstep & re-step? that's a great club benefit!
>
> Here's something I found tuning my rigging last spring after a chain
> plate repair. I tried the halyard to toe rail measuring scheme, but it
> just felt too stretchy and inaccurate, so I clipped the end of a 100'
> steel tape measure to the halyard and hoisted it up to the top. This
> felt So Much more accurate to center the masthead. A 50' tape would work
> on this boat, of course.
>
> Bob
>

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.124/2599 - Release Date: 01/04/10 03:24:00

  

Hi Rick,

I'll be looking at that job soon too. Thanks for the preview. Epoxy
filling the stand-off tubes is a good idea. I might try one of the putty
style epoxies like a PC7 before trying to pour West System resin in
there. It might get pretty warm and make bubbles curing in that much
volume. Although mixing in the light fairing compound should help. Notch
some wood blocks and clamp them to drill out the center.

Did you have to take down the teak handrails inside the cabin? It a
little tight to get at the fasteners under them, but haven't tried yet.

Thanks,

Bob

Here are some edited versions of messages I posted on the S2 Yahoo site a few years ago. Although I had an S2 7.3 back then, I hope that my experience will be of value.

On my (old) S2 7.3, I also had to deal with the rotted wood dowels that were inside the stainless steel stand-off tubes. Years of neglect by the PO led to water infiltration, which rotted the wood dowels inside the tubes (nearly all of them!) I found a dowel rod (broom handle, actually) that was the exact O.D. as the stand-off tube's I.D, cut them to length (note, one end was NOT flush cut, rather angled slightly), drilled them, sealed them with WEST, including the inside of the newly-drilled bolt hole, then re-bedded properly during the re-installation. The installation was a two person job, with one of us outside and one inside. Keep in mind that the handrails are "bent" into place...start at one end, and press the rail down as you work toward the other end. Another note: keep track of which stand-off tube goes where. Mine were not all identical lengths/angles. The angled end of the stainless steel stand-off tubes fits on the deck to compensate for the slope of the deck, with the acute angle oriented "out and down" when looked at from the side. I used 4200 as sealant, since it remains flexible and is way easier to remove than 5200. Allow the 4200 to cure for 24 hours prior to snugging down the rails tightly. Don't allow the bolt to turn when you do this, or you'll break the 4200 seal--only turn the nut on the inside!

And yes, the bolts on my 7.3 came in different lengths, too, so I kept track of which one went where.

After removing the handrails and before installation, I sanded the handrails, then treated them with Starbright Teak Brightener, allowed them to dry, then re-sanded. Used four coats of Cetol Light on the handrails, followed-up with two coats of Cetol Gloss. During the three weeks that the handrails were off the boat, I used a small piece of duct tape over each hole in the deck to keep the rain out. I also checked the deck core around each hole for rot, reamed out the rot where necessary, filled those with thickened epoxy, and re-drilled.

OK. Now the PO of my 27 did the same job on my boat, but he filled the standoff tubes with thickened epoxy, then drilled out the bolt holes on a drill press. IMHO, this is a better fix for the long term, although my WEST "dowel job" will serve the new owner of my old 7.3 for years to come.

Sorry that this post was a bit windy, but I hope these comments are of some value.

Dave S.
1987 S2 27
Hull #80


--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@> wrote:

Hi Rick,

I'll be looking at that job soon too. Thanks for the preview. Epoxy
filling the stand-off tubes is a good idea. I might try one of the putty
style epoxies like a PC7 before trying to pour West System resin in
there. It might get pretty warm and make bubbles curing in that much
volume. Although mixing in the light fairing compound should help. Notch
some wood blocks and clamp them to drill out the center.

Did you have to take down the teak handrails inside the cabin? It a
little tight to get at the fasteners under them, but haven't tried yet.

Thanks,

Bob

40 bucks to unstep & re-step? that's a great club benefit!

Here's something I found tuning my rigging last spring after a chain
plate repair. I tried the halyard to toe rail measuring scheme, but it
just felt too stretchy and inaccurate, so I clipped the end of a 100'
steel tape measure to the halyard and hoisted it up to the top. This
felt So Much more accurate to center the masthead. A 50' tape would work
on this boat, of course.

Bob

Nice system. Looks like the plastic hinge folds over the lifeline and
the vertical slat carries the weight. Do you unstep the mast every
winter? Retune the rig with a gauge or eyeball?

Bob