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Removing rudder when trailering
MarkS
I've posted a couple of pics of my boat loaded to her new trailer, so far so good. Still have a few more straps to go.
I'm strongly considering leaving the rudder in place for the trip. I have a ratchet strap holding the tiller to center, and it has several feet of clearance between the rudder and the ground. I know, I know, I'm being lazy. But getting it up into the boat is going to be a pain, plus once it's in there I have to find a way to secure it so that it doesn't damage itself or anything else inside. We will be launching from trailer next month once we get to Elephant Butte Lake, NM, I'll post some pics of that process afterwards. It involves a loooong tow strap due to the gradual incline of the ramp, but it sounds like it's pretty common out there (no lifts on the lake due to wildly fluctuating water levels). |
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
Just heard today from the OEM supplier, Florida Marine Tanks...of course, they don't stock the tank (I accept that...the boat is 25 years old, after all), but a newly fabricated tank will take 5-6 weeks (which takes me well beyond half the season at this point) and at a cost of $450 plus shipping. Seriously? $450 for an 8 gallon aluminum tank?
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In spite of what they say on their FAQ, I'm going to look for a welder of aluminum in my neighborhood. --- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
No petcock on the bottom, unfortunately...
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I'll post some pictures of my tank in the photo section. --- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
I don't know for sure, but is seems so (well, at least for my boat) since the model number on the tank's label is FMT-8-S2, and it has a November '86 manufacture date stamped on it (my boat is an '87).
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The tank is 8 gallons, and was manufactured from 5052 aluminum. I just sent FMT an email for a price quote on a new tank. I'll let you know how pricey it is when I hear back from them. --- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
Dave - did S2 OEM tanks from Florida Marine?
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--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
the one area where I am NOT leaking is the fuel tank....as the P.O replaced the tank when they installed the new engine in 2006...
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BTW - is there a petcock at the bottom of the tank that may be leaking? --- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
Given what is stated on the tank manufacturer's website FAQ,
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<>, I will replace the tank. Since this is the first of potentially many other leaks, I might as well solve the problem as permanently as possible. I only want to do this job once! A neighbor on the dock suggested that I repair the tank with J-B Weld...I'm not sure that is a good idea. Another suggestion was to take it to a local welding shop for repair. Here's what they say on the FAQ: "Is my tank repairable? FMT does not recommend repairing tanks." "My tank has corrosion. What can I do? Once corrosion has started, it can not be stopped. FMT recommends a replacement tank." Cheers! ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
Mark,
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Thanks for your response. My fuel tank was manufactured by Florida Marine Tanks, and it measures 14" length x 14" width x 10" height, with a stub out for the fuel filler opening at 1.5" on the height. The opening for the lazarette is 12", so it should JUST come out of the boat that way. I took your advice and checked all of the hoses and their connectionsfor leaks, and there is no sign of a problem there. I should be good to go on the tank replacement. ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaking diesel fuel tank
Mark Swart
Dave, I too have the inboard diesel, I'd be surprised if my tank would come out through the lazarette. I'm pretty sure it could come out from the front if you took the engine out (ugh). I'm guessing it was put in before the deck was put in place. Some other possibilities to think about other than the tank: inspect and replace all of the hoses (tank fill, vent, and mine has the a primary fuel filter mounted back by the tank as well.) The hoses dry rot over time, if you have a full tank or are heeled a lot it could cause fuel to leak if they are compromised. Could even be something as simple as a hose clamp that isn't on good.? -Mark |
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Leaking diesel fuel tank
Have any of you replaced your fuel tank?
Did you replace the tank with a plastic or aluminum? If you have done this job, can the tank be removed through the lazarette (I haven't measured mine yet)? How big of a job did the replacement end up to be? I am fairly sure that I have a minute leak on the bottom of my aluminum fuel tank, which holds about 8 gallons. The tank is located on the centerline of the boat, just aft of the shaft. It is fixed to a plywood platform that spans the shallow "V" of the bilge in that area. There is a very small gap between the bottom of the tank and the platform, and I keep finding fuel there. After sailing, I also end up with a very small amount of fuel in the bilge, presumably because the boat "works" and the tank flexes a bit, releasing the diesel fuel. Thanks for any advice you can give me. ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
For me, leaks fall into two?categories: nuisance leaks above the waterline (can lead to core rot, however), or serious leaks below the waterline. ?If the keelbolts are leaking, that would fall into the serious category in my book. ?If it's a keelbolt leak, the water will be obviously salty or brackish, given where Rick sails. ?
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Tasting the water is the easiest test for salt or fresh (yuck), but a test of the conductivity or the refractive index of the water would be other methods, since seawater will have different values than fresh water?for both of these physical properties. ?Finding the instrumentation for these tests might be a problem, though. ?
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If a dry spell is forecast for three or four days, de-water the bilge, then dry the area. ?If no new water appears for a few days, it's likely a rainwater leak. ?If not, check for saltwater.
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My suggestions are pretty obvious, and I am sure you thought of them...hope it helps, though.
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Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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? -----Original Message-----
From: "s227classassociation" [rperret@...] Date: 05/23/2012 08:50 AM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27 ?
thanks guys - will test some of the suggestions, including the magic marker method - i used that once on mu Tanzer 22 - had forgotten about that method which works quite well in chasing down a leak. |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
thanks guys - will test some of the suggestions, including the magic marker method - i used that once on mu Tanzer 22 - had forgotten about that method which works quite well in chasing down a leak.
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--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Okay, science it is!
Since these boats are covered with carpet inside, water spreads out quickly and leak sources are not obvious. I bought an electrophysics moisture meter. (I'm a woodworker, my old pin type meter was croaking, so it was a completely justifiable expense.) The new meter has shown me many water intrusions I would not have known about for a while. I found the chain plate leak before I got it, but the extent of the wet core was revealed by the meter. I had water in the portside settee compartment the following year and blamed the hull to deck joint until I metered the area and discovered my caulk job at the chainplates was not good enough. Cabintop winches & traveler mounting bolts had wet core. The forward hatch was a big culprit but a fairly simple re-bed; no core problems. I even found an impact zone on the hull just below the toerail that showed dampness. I wouldn't have noticed that one until it was a much bigger repair otherwise. So Rick; if you can beg, borrow, etc., plot the relative moisture readings with sticky notes or something. You'll find out more than you wanted to know! Maybe even the leak you're looking for! After the fact, I can now see some of the visual cues I should have picked up on. There were more obvious watermarks around bolts in the ceiling, but there are a few spots on the V-berth bulkheads where the finish looks thin that must have been from being wet repeatedly. Not flooded, but frequently on the wet side of damp. Best of luck hunting, Bob |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Mark Swart
I'll start with my idea of blocking off the bilge compartments. That way you isolate front and rear. Second, in the back around the engine and in the lazarettes, you can use a water soluble marker (crayola) and draw a few lines across a few different areas. The water will mess up the crayola where it runs across it. Ideally, sit on the boat during a heavy rain and you might catch the dripping 'red handed.' Chasing these things is no fun, that's for sure! That's about all I can think of. |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Okay, troops, let's help Rick solve his water infiltration problem by applying the scientific method. Speculation is fine, but what get us to the solution to his problem?
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a) What hypothesis (or hypotheses) are we going to have him test? b) What's the experimental design that he needs to apply to the hypothesis? Let's hear 'em! It's the least we can do for the founder of this group! ____________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Mark Swart
My pump is very similar (and may even be the same pump) as this one: Bosworth Guzzler Jr GF-0250S, listed at $29.60. Here is the manufacturer page: ? ? Purely hand powered, and mounted under the sink on the same side of the compartment as the icebox. T is plumbed into the sink drain 3-4 inches beneath the sink (keeps it from backflowing into the sink when you pump). So with the pump, a T, and a few feet of hose you could probably solve the problem for around $40 total and probably under an hour to install (provided your icebox already has a drain fitting and tube.) |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Mark, Your icebox drain setup has been on my wish list for a while now. Do you have any pics or details of the install? Is your pump electric or purely manual??
Steve On May 21, 2012, at 8:00 AM, Mark Swart <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Mark Swart
Yes, once sealed, it appeared only to accumulate in the first bilge compartment right behind the mast. I have occasionally gotten a little in the 'aft bilge' area in front of the engine (not the engine pan, but right in front of the seacock for the water intake). I"m not sure where it comes from, sounds like the lazarette is a common entry point after reading this thread. It seems to be intermittent so I haven't worried about it too much. My ice box drain is routed to a small manual pump that is located under the sink, which T-s into the sink drain. So I know mine isn't coming from the icebox. |
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Re: water in bilge...keel stepped s2 27
Bob - thanks - this happened BEFORE the mast was stepped.
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Re the mast partners - i get no water in ceiling ever since i moved to sealing the partners using Butyl Rubber (i use butyl rubber under the mast partner plates around the bolt holes, and also a seam around the outer perimieter of the partner plates. The stuff is excellent....and it can be easily removed (vs silicone) Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
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