UC18 and DS287C star party April 9 and 10 2022 for Galaxy season (1 of 2)
Wow, the family stayed up until sleep could not be resisted and left me with the galaxy capture marathon. 
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Re: Obsession 18 Classic - preparing for sale
Having used both many time, AM gets more results for me. And gets serious buyers. But that's me.? I don't *like* paying Herb, but the site is worth it if you want to move your item. That is my experience.? Ah.... a driven classic... I'd trade you straight across for a UC22... alas ... OH is a bit far!! :)??
Good luck. Both sites are worth posting to!
---------------------------------------? Jeff Gortatowsky - California Religion... together we can find the cure." - Richard Dawkins "Science flies you to the moon. Religion flies you into buildings. "
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Re: Obsession 18 Classic - preparing for sale
Second the suggestion for Cloudynights. I stopped using AM years ago. Nice scope!
Mark
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would suggest listing it on
cloudy nights as well...? I tend to sell things much faster
there, many more people are on that site. Figure out how far you are
willing to drive to meet someone and list that in the ad -
unless you are confident about shipping this beast.? Then get
payment before taking off (at least to cover your gas and time
in case they decide they don't like it when they see it.)
On 4/6/2022 4:24 PM, W945106 Last_Name
wrote:
Looks like another year I won't be using my Obsession 18 Classic -
original owner #1930 Jul 2011 museum condition.
I will put it on Astromart this week - but I've only sold a couple
things there so I have no rating.
Any tips appreciated. Cincinnati. Totals up to about $14K total
new.
Obsession 18 f/4.5 Classic + OMI primary mirror $6295
OMI 18-394-031611 F = 82 1/8"
spare split blocks 60
ServoCAT 10K encoders + ArgoNavis; powered ground board 3195
Feathertouch focuser upgrade 385
Counter-weight tube 30
Secondary dew heater 75
StellarView 9x50 finder scope mounted 195
ripstop nylon shroud (+ zipper added later) 189
Telrad 45
AstroSystems transport covers and cases 308
Howie Glatter sling upgrade 200
SkyFi II wireless serial adapter 200
pine ramps and truck ramp kit 100
shipping 891
Markless bumper blocks, UTA dew heater cable ¡ ~50
HardCase 22" drum box for Obsession UTA 200
laser cut 18" Bahtinov mask ~200
Catsperch observing chair with cushion 400
?
I am not selling dew heater controller, eyepieces, laser
collimater, Mallincam ... still hoping I can get back into the
hobby one day. Although the Mallincam Xtreme may be next to go.
Thanks for advice. No criticism please.
?
--
Mark Bungart
15" Obsession #643 / Swayze mirror
Grove City, Ohio
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Re: Obsession 18 Classic - preparing for sale
I would suggest listing it on
cloudy nights as well...? I tend to sell things much faster
there, many more people are on that site.
Figure out how far you are
willing to drive to meet someone and list that in the ad -
unless you are confident about shipping this beast.? Then get
payment before taking off (at least to cover your gas and time
in case they decide they don't like it when they see it.)
On 4/6/2022 4:24 PM, W945106 Last_Name
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Looks like another year I won't be using my Obsession 18 Classic -
original owner #1930 Jul 2011 museum condition.
I will put it on Astromart this week - but I've only sold a couple
things there so I have no rating.
Any tips appreciated. Cincinnati. Totals up to about $14K total
new.
Obsession 18 f/4.5 Classic + OMI primary mirror $6295
OMI 18-394-031611 F = 82 1/8"
spare split blocks 60
ServoCAT 10K encoders + ArgoNavis; powered ground board 3195
Feathertouch focuser upgrade 385
Counter-weight tube 30
Secondary dew heater 75
StellarView 9x50 finder scope mounted 195
ripstop nylon shroud (+ zipper added later) 189
Telrad 45
AstroSystems transport covers and cases 308
Howie Glatter sling upgrade 200
SkyFi II wireless serial adapter 200
pine ramps and truck ramp kit 100
shipping 891
Markless bumper blocks, UTA dew heater cable ¡ ~50
HardCase 22" drum box for Obsession UTA 200
laser cut 18" Bahtinov mask ~200
Catsperch observing chair with cushion 400
?
I am not selling dew heater controller, eyepieces, laser
collimater, Mallincam ... still hoping I can get back into the
hobby one day. Although the Mallincam Xtreme may be next to go.
Thanks for advice. No criticism please.
?
|
Obsession 18 Classic - preparing for sale
Looks like another year I won't be using my Obsession 18 Classic - original owner #1930 Jul 2011 museum condition. I will put it on Astromart this week - but I've only sold a couple things there so I have no rating. Any tips appreciated. Cincinnati. Totals up to about $14K total new.
Obsession 18 f/4.5 Classic + OMI primary mirror $6295
OMI 18-394-031611 F = 82 1/8"
spare split blocks 60
ServoCAT 10K encoders + ArgoNavis; powered ground board 3195
Feathertouch focuser upgrade 385
Counter-weight tube 30
Secondary dew heater 75
StellarView 9x50 finder scope mounted 195
ripstop nylon shroud (+ zipper added later) 189
Telrad 45
AstroSystems transport covers and cases 308
Howie Glatter sling upgrade 200
SkyFi II wireless serial adapter 200
pine ramps and truck ramp kit 100
shipping 891
Markless bumper blocks, UTA dew heater cable ¡ ~50
HardCase 22" drum box for Obsession UTA 200
laser cut 18" Bahtinov mask ~200
Catsperch observing chair with cushion 400
?
I am not selling dew heater controller, eyepieces, laser collimater, Mallincam ... still hoping I can get back into the hobby one day. Although the Mallincam Xtreme may be next to go.
Thanks for advice. No criticism please.
?
|
UC18 and DS287C Sunday night Glaxies
All, I keep my UC18 in the corner of my dining room and roll it out through my sliding glass doors over a threshold ramp.? Once the moon gets to 50% waxing I will disassemble and put into my white box. Here is a mosaic of 4 more galaxies. 
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
Bob,
I like to turn the gain down low (5 or lower) and then set the exposure to about 20 seconds.? I will make about 10 stacks of 20 seconds each.? I also do a bit of live HDR type actions between stacks to enhance the dim detail.??
If I get some good contrast then I can engage the Deep Sky stacking mode that de-rotates in the MallincamSky (free) software that comes with the DS287C camera.
With the de-rotating working I can stack for about 5 minutes.
I hope this answers your question.
Richard
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
Very impressive, thanks! ?Can you give us an idea of how long an exposure you can get before field rotation throws things off?
Bob
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
Well done! I am not an imager, but still... nicely done!
---------------------------------------? Jeff Gortatowsky, Redondo Beach, CA? "Religion... together we can find the cure." - Richard Dawkins
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
These are awesome! Do you mind sharing what gear you use with UC18?
On Sat, Mar 26, 2022 at 3:06 PM Richard < rmille64@...> wrote: All, Stellarium lets me rapidly slew to the next target.? Remote observing with a UC18 is a lot of fun.  Richard Miller
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Re: A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
Very nice, Richard.? I have an 18UC as well but I image with a C8. Thanks for sharing!
Jim
On Saturday, March 26, 2022, 06:06:32 p.m. EDT, Richard <rmille64@...> wrote:
All, Stellarium lets me rapidly slew to the next target.? Remote observing with a UC18 is a lot of fun.  Richard Miller
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A mosaic from my UC18 via remote observations
All, Stellarium lets me rapidly slew to the next target.? Remote observing with a UC18 is a lot of fun.  Richard Miller
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Re: More Help Required, 20" F5 Classic
OK, Thanks to Mr. Starks, I have found my issue.
I took out the two hex head screws and was able to remove the bottom ground board.? VIOLA!??
?
Where there should have been four Teflon pads, one each at 120 degrees and a center one, one of the three outer pads was missing!? By the rub marks on the ground board, it has been gone quite a while.
?
I could have sworn I inspected all three before I took it apart, must have missed one.
?
I have a new Teflon pad gluing right now.? I¡¯ll reassemble in the morning and do a test tomorrow night if the cloud monsters stay away.
Thanks guys.
I also am getting ready to solve ALL of my 18UC issues, I am re-hosting the optics in a new skin, a DOC Telescope from Marco!
?
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Re: More Help Required, 20" F5 Classic
I have your same scope, 20" F5.? I have not experienced your problem with the obsession, but I have experienced the problem with my 14.5" Starmaster.? To fix the problem I cleaned the Teflon?pads and used "Armor All Original Protectant" to recoat the teflon pads. In addition,?I used a counterweight?that I hung off of the upper assembly.? Once I hung the counterweight?and adjusted the weight, the azimuth stiction problem disappeared.? I now?have my buttery smooth?movement back again.
?
Regards,
Chuck
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More Help Required, 20" F5 Classic
Fixed my focus issue, shortened the poles almost an inch.? Thanks for all of the help.
New problem, after about five months of ownership.? Telescope lives in my garage covered and away from the elements.? Humidity is NOT a concern as I live in SW Colorado.
The Azimuth rotation is nearly non-existent, meaning that last Fall I could easily rotate the entire assembled scope with fingertip pressure with the ServoCAT disengaged.? I went to take the scope out this last morning and i have to use SIGNIFICANT force to move in Azimuth.? I rolled the scope back in and disassembled it to the point I removed the mirror box from the rocker box.? I anticipated to find something amiss with the ServoCAT clutch mechanism.? Nothing wrong there, it works like a dream when the lever is in the disengage position,? It clamps down good and snug when engaged.? If I turn the rocker box on its side the round ground board rotates freely.? However when I lay the rocker box down proper on its feet it begins to be "sticky" and more difficult to move, if I load the mirror box (no struts or upper cage assy) it becomes very hard to rotate in Azimuth.? I then removed the mirror box again and inspected the teflon pads I could readily see, they look fine.? I am unsure how to actually dismantle the powered ground board from the rocker box.? There is a rectangular plate on the bottom of the scope and a couple of other hex head fasteners, not real big ones.? On the top inside of the rocker box, I don't know how to release the encoder assy, I removed the screw on the end of the encoder assy arm, but the encoder won't slide off of the shaft.? I looked for a set screw on the sides of the encoder and found none.??
I am asking for help as I DON'T want to MUCK it up, but I would like to take the round ground board off and inspect between the round ground board and the rocker box bottom.??
Any suggestions at what might be causing my added friction????? And suggestions on seperating the round ground board from the rocker box?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Re: What is the best collimation tool to buy.
Same here, I set up the 15 classic in about 10 mins. I plop in the Glatter collimator, align the secondary, then go to the Barlow and align the primary. Takes about 5 mins and Im all set for the night¡
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Show quoted text
I have a UC18, I use a HOTEC laser collimater. Takes about 10 minutes to collimate secondary and primary mirrors. Works perfectly for me every time, stars are tack sharp. I have used this same?collimater on my previous scope, Orion xt10g?for many years with same great results. On Friday, March 4, 2022, 9:37 PM, Christine Zeltner <czeltner356@...> wrote: I do strictly?visual observing?so the quick easy method has been good.? I do a star test after collimating and it always looks good.??
I too do not have the money for the expensive ones.
Chris On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 8:01 PM Josh Sehn < joshsehn@...> wrote: Of all the possible methods and procedures, Gordon describes my favorite when I really want a high level of precision. (E.g. great seeing conditions, new scope or mirror, long session and/or very difficult object observations planned)
In my experience the Orion laser or "simple laser method" as I like to call it, works fine. However, at least with my sample of the "Orion" device, it simply is not very accurate. My sample of the laser does not appear to be perfectly aligned to the holder and the pointer ascribes a circle on the primary, when rotating the laser assembly in the focuser.)
In my experience, the quality of the 1.25 to 2" adapter used with the cheaper 1.25" lasers can also introduce an additional margin of error.
But I will frequently use a cheap and simple laser/method anyway because; a) I don't have $300 USD burning a hole in my pocket, b) the cheap laser works pretty good and it's so easy, c) the result is typically good enough, and d) I still need to get one of those radiation cateye stickers for the scope/mirror I bought over 5 years ago and I have delayed getting the stickers because it needs recoating... still :-).
/Josh On Fri., Mar. 4, 2022, 3:51 p.m. Gordon Pegue, < gpegue@...> wrote:
My 2 bits...
Lasers _can_ lie, if they're not properly and carefully aligned.
With that said, my procedure is as follows:
Assemble scope;
Check primary is seated in cell properly and no wonkiness in edge support;
Check spider end screws and secondary shroud screws (they can and do backoff unless you Locktite them - not sure if that's a great idea...);
Use sight tube to check gross secondary positioning (along optical axis of OTA under focuser and rotation);
Use standard 2" LaserMax laser to get secondary in ballpark (only secondary adjustment movements towards/away from focuser if laser dot is aligned with focuser axis on primary, then rotate secondary to get laser spot in center of primary center triangle - yes, I use the CatsEye system).
Once that's done (all the preceding usually takes about less than 2 minutes if I don't have to carefully tighten any screws), I use ONLY passive tools to fine adjust:
I iterate back and forth between CatsEye Cheshire for Primary and CatsEye Auto-collimator for Secondary until the multiple triangle reflections are stacked in the Auto-collimator.
The entire procedure takes just a few minutes.
Gordon
I have been using the collimating eyepiece that came with my scope and an Orion
laser collimator?in a 1.25 to 2 inch adapter?forever.? It works great.
Chris?
On Thu, Mar 3, 2022 at 10:47 PM Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky via <indanapt= [email protected]> wrote:
> Bottom line, is a $280 Howie Glasier 2" Laser a lot better that a $180 2" Barlowed laser or a $60 1.25" laser with a centering adapter?
No. Not even. A laser that when rotated in v-blocks that is close to center (ok, centered) will make your collimation look awesome. AFTER you use a sight tube.
I met Howie a few times at RTMC. I never bought his product because of how he treated his wife... you had to be there to believe it! IF you KNEW Howie, you know what I mean.
But that has NOTHING to do with his products. The laser is overpriced. IMO period. I *think* astrosystems?has a barlowed laser for about half that $280. Don't recall... I used?
it for a while.?
$280 bucks? Ya gotta be kidding.
JMO
--
Mark Bungart
15" Obsession #643 / Swayze mirror
Grove City, Ohio
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Re: What is the best collimation tool to buy.
I have a UC18, I use a HOTEC laser collimater. Takes about 10 minutes to collimate secondary and primary mirrors. Works perfectly for me every time, stars are tack sharp. I have used this same?collimater on my previous scope, Orion xt10g?for many years with same great results.
On Friday, March 4, 2022, 9:37 PM, Christine Zeltner <czeltner356@...> wrote: I do strictly?visual observing?so the quick easy method has been good.? I do a star test after collimating and it always looks good.??
I too do not have the money for the expensive ones.
Chris On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 8:01 PM Josh Sehn < joshsehn@...> wrote: Of all the possible methods and procedures, Gordon describes my favorite when I really want a high level of precision. (E.g. great seeing conditions, new scope or mirror, long session and/or very difficult object observations planned)
In my experience the Orion laser or "simple laser method" as I like to call it, works fine. However, at least with my sample of the "Orion" device, it simply is not very accurate. My sample of the laser does not appear to be perfectly aligned to the holder and the pointer ascribes a circle on the primary, when rotating the laser assembly in the focuser.)
In my experience, the quality of the 1.25 to 2" adapter used with the cheaper 1.25" lasers can also introduce an additional margin of error.
But I will frequently use a cheap and simple laser/method anyway because; a) I don't have $300 USD burning a hole in my pocket, b) the cheap laser works pretty good and it's so easy, c) the result is typically good enough, and d) I still need to get one of those radiation cateye stickers for the scope/mirror I bought over 5 years ago and I have delayed getting the stickers because it needs recoating... still :-).
/Josh On Fri., Mar. 4, 2022, 3:51 p.m. Gordon Pegue, < gpegue@...> wrote:
My 2 bits...
Lasers _can_ lie, if they're not properly and carefully aligned.
With that said, my procedure is as follows:
Assemble scope;
Check primary is seated in cell properly and no wonkiness in edge support;
Check spider end screws and secondary shroud screws (they can and do backoff unless you Locktite them - not sure if that's a great idea...);
Use sight tube to check gross secondary positioning (along optical axis of OTA under focuser and rotation);
Use standard 2" LaserMax laser to get secondary in ballpark (only secondary adjustment movements towards/away from focuser if laser dot is aligned with focuser axis on primary, then rotate secondary to get laser spot in center of primary center triangle - yes, I use the CatsEye system).
Once that's done (all the preceding usually takes about less than 2 minutes if I don't have to carefully tighten any screws), I use ONLY passive tools to fine adjust:
I iterate back and forth between CatsEye Cheshire for Primary and CatsEye Auto-collimator for Secondary until the multiple triangle reflections are stacked in the Auto-collimator.
The entire procedure takes just a few minutes.
Gordon
I have been using the collimating eyepiece that came with my scope and an Orion
laser collimator?in a 1.25 to 2 inch adapter?forever.? It works great.
Chris?
On Thu, Mar 3, 2022 at 10:47 PM Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky via <indanapt= [email protected]> wrote:
> Bottom line, is a $280 Howie Glasier 2" Laser a lot better that a $180 2" Barlowed laser or a $60 1.25" laser with a centering adapter?
No. Not even. A laser that when rotated in v-blocks that is close to center (ok, centered) will make your collimation look awesome. AFTER you use a sight tube.
I met Howie a few times at RTMC. I never bought his product because of how he treated his wife... you had to be there to believe it! IF you KNEW Howie, you know what I mean.
But that has NOTHING to do with his products. The laser is overpriced. IMO period. I *think* astrosystems?has a barlowed laser for about half that $280. Don't recall... I used?
it for a while.?
$280 bucks? Ya gotta be kidding.
JMO
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Re: What is the best collimation tool to buy.
Folks, you should be wary of "The Dreaded Star test". Most of use can't fathom the Suiter book and his math.? Also: Thermal equilibrium and seeing often will not allow a star test to tell you anything. At least for the former, not as you are 'setting up'.?
And you have to compensate for eyepiece and your eye's aberrations.
Just a word.?
THE NUMBER ONE THING newcomers need to know? If your scope is f/5 or better. Just t=do what you can. It'll be fine. Don't stress!?
If you are type A, maybe a f/7 or better telescope is the way to go before you blow a fuse! :)? Too many people lose too much time fretting over collimation when they should just be observing.? Once you have a few 100 (1000?) hours doing that, maybe you'll tell the difference.? You don't see ANYTHING observing Polaris for an hour while fretting over collimation. Except a nice double. :)
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Re: What is the best collimation tool to buy.
I do strictly?visual observing?so the quick easy method has been good.? I do a star test after collimating and it always looks good.??
I too do not have the money for the expensive ones.
Chris
On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 8:01 PM Josh Sehn < joshsehn@...> wrote: Of all the possible methods and procedures, Gordon describes my favorite when I really want a high level of precision. (E.g. great seeing conditions, new scope or mirror, long session and/or very difficult object observations planned)
In my experience the Orion laser or "simple laser method" as I like to call it, works fine. However, at least with my sample of the "Orion" device, it simply is not very accurate. My sample of the laser does not appear to be perfectly aligned to the holder and the pointer ascribes a circle on the primary, when rotating the laser assembly in the focuser.)
In my experience, the quality of the 1.25 to 2" adapter used with the cheaper 1.25" lasers can also introduce an additional margin of error.
But I will frequently use a cheap and simple laser/method anyway because; a) I don't have $300 USD burning a hole in my pocket, b) the cheap laser works pretty good and it's so easy, c) the result is typically good enough, and d) I still need to get one of those radiation cateye stickers for the scope/mirror I bought over 5 years ago and I have delayed getting the stickers because it needs recoating... still :-).
/Josh On Fri., Mar. 4, 2022, 3:51 p.m. Gordon Pegue, < gpegue@...> wrote:
My 2 bits...
Lasers _can_ lie, if they're not properly and carefully aligned.
With that said, my procedure is as follows:
Assemble scope;
Check primary is seated in cell properly and no wonkiness in edge support;
Check spider end screws and secondary shroud screws (they can and do backoff unless you Locktite them - not sure if that's a great idea...);
Use sight tube to check gross secondary positioning (along optical axis of OTA under focuser and rotation);
Use standard 2" LaserMax laser to get secondary in ballpark (only secondary adjustment movements towards/away from focuser if laser dot is aligned with focuser axis on primary, then rotate secondary to get laser spot in center of primary center triangle - yes, I use the CatsEye system).
Once that's done (all the preceding usually takes about less than 2 minutes if I don't have to carefully tighten any screws), I use ONLY passive tools to fine adjust:
I iterate back and forth between CatsEye Cheshire for Primary and CatsEye Auto-collimator for Secondary until the multiple triangle reflections are stacked in the Auto-collimator.
The entire procedure takes just a few minutes.
Gordon
I have been using the collimating eyepiece that came with my scope and an Orion
laser collimator?in a 1.25 to 2 inch adapter?forever.? It works great.
Chris?
On Thu, Mar 3, 2022 at 10:47 PM Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky via <indanapt= [email protected]> wrote:
> Bottom line, is a $280 Howie Glasier 2" Laser a lot better that a $180 2" Barlowed laser or a $60 1.25" laser with a centering adapter?
No. Not even. A laser that when rotated in v-blocks that is close to center (ok, centered) will make your collimation look awesome. AFTER you use a sight tube.
I met Howie a few times at RTMC. I never bought his product because of how he treated his wife... you had to be there to believe it! IF you KNEW Howie, you know what I mean.
But that has NOTHING to do with his products. The laser is overpriced. IMO period. I *think* astrosystems?has a barlowed laser for about half that $280. Don't recall... I used?
it for a while.?
$280 bucks? Ya gotta be kidding.
JMO
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charles jagow
Christine Zeltner