Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Mr. Starks, ? I contacted the previous owner, and he too had the same issue with focus, he adjusted the Primary “up” in the collimation bolts such that his bevy of ETHOS eyepieces would come to focus and never did anything more with it. ? I don’t own any ETHOS, I had a 10mm once but sold it as I didn’t care for it – probably the only person in the world to not care for the ETHOS line.? My favorite eyepieces are my Pentax XW collection, and sadly none of them will come to focus even with the mirror raised as high as I could get it.? ? I am going to remove the Primary and CLEAN it, it is filthy, I could barely see the center donut while collimating.? I will check the sling and try to ascertain if the mirror cell looks OK.? ? I believe the 20” F5 is a 2007 or 2008 production unit. ?
Future ??????? Gone... ?????? ? ? Chuck, I have the same scope as you, Obsession 20” F/5, except that my focal ratio is actually 4.92 and my scope and mirror were made in 1999.? I have had them since new.? ? Your focal length is another factor in the pole length required.? What is your mirror focal ratio?? It should be marked on the rear of the mirror, or maybe on the edge.? I’ll check mine here and let you know the length of my poles.? You can compare.? By the way, I have Naglers from 5mm up through a 35mm Panoptic.? I also have an Explorer Scientific 14mm 100 degree EP.? All come to focus. ? Double check proper seating of the poles inside your blocks and proper seating of the poles inside the aluminum clamps at the top. I also concur with the others’ remarks about the collimation screws position, but you have adjusted that already. Has something gone awry in the mirror cell supports?? Perhaps occurring during vehicle transit.? ? If you do go through with cutting your poles, I recommend a large tubing cutter, available a Lowes and Home Depot. However, before I would cut them, I would try to understand what has changed since 2007 to require them to be cut. ?Presumably prior owners had no major issues, but maybe they had different eyepieces.? Measure twice, cut once, of course, but first know “the rest of the story”. ? Good luck. ? Charlie ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of charles jagow Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 9:20 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5 ? Thank you for your help.? The previous owner contacted me after I had put the scope to bed last night.? He had the same problem, but he said he moved the mirror up via the collimation bolts such that his eyepieces (ETHOS) would come to focus.? I moved the mirror up with the collimation bolts to the point I could only see three threads of travel left on each.? I then re-collimated first with the Howie Glatter and then dialed it in with a visual Cat's Eye tool set.? This allowed my Nagler 17mm to pass through focus, allowing me to focus that eyepiece.? The seeing and transparency was horrible last night, but the view of Jupiter was very well defined with the Nagler 17.? Stars are well formed, a little comet shaped much closer to the edge.? The mirror combination is exponentially better than the Ostahowski mirror in my UC 18.
I was able to bring a few of the other eyepieces to focus, mostly those above 17mm.? The range of 7-12mm were not able to pass through focus inward, some were close but no banana. ? NONE of the eyepieces would come to focus with my adjustable Paracor.
My favorite eyepieces, Pentax XW series (5mm, 7mm,10mm, and 14mm) will not come to focus at all.
This issue must be corrected.? It is apparent to me that the strut poles are too long.? All of the poles measure the same length plus or minus a 1/32".? The depth of my blocks measures? 2 3/4" each, +/- 1/8".
I am inclined to cut my poles by a half of an inch each.? My non-existent? ATM skills/experience would tell me that this should solve my inward focus issue if I place the mirror in about the middle of the collimation bolt's travel.? What I don't know is what effect the Secondary mirror has on focal length calculations, if any at all.?
I am inclined to believe that either the 45 degree angle and/or just the reflection off of the secondary mirror has an effect on the focal length somehow???
Lets say I get my 17mm Nagler to come to focus with the mirror positioned (and collimated) near the midpoint of travel of the collimation bolts, if I then were to reduce the length of the poles by a 1/2", will this result in an extra 1/2" of inward focus travel at the focuser?? Or is this somehow increased or decreased due to the effect of the Secondary mirror??
v/r
Chuck J.
|
I bought my Obsession 18” UC several years ago after the owner had contracted a serious medical condition while he was waiting to receive the scope from Obsession.? He sold me the scope and had never even been able to look through it.? It was essentially brand new.? I previously owned briefly another brand of “compact” Dobsonian with a 20” mirror.? The optics were excellent on the 20” but the packaging (mount) was worse than a dime store refractor’s tripod.? That is another very long story, but suffice it to say I returned the 20” and about a week later acquired the 18” UC. ? At this point in my Dobsonian stable I have the new to me 20” Obsession Classic, an 18” Obsession UC, an Orion 12” truss tube goto (which I believe, and many others have conceded to as well, that it has the best 12” mirror they have ever looked through), a 10” Orion Intelliscope, and a fun little 6” Dob.? I have observed with many different dobs at many star parties, one of my observing buddies includes a very accomplished ATM fellow who has recently won the highest ATM award for Newtonian (Dob style) reflectors at Stellafane – something he has accomplished more than once.? I have learned from some very seasoned and experienced observers, and I have looked through some amazing scopes and some not so amazing scopes.? And I will stand by my statement that my Obsession 18” UC Ostahowski mirror is not even very good, I dare say that my 10” Intelliscope has a better view.? The dismal performance of the UC’s optics coupled with its inability of the UC design to remain collimated through a heavy night of observing and/or public outreach led me down the path to a Classic Obsession.? I tried to buy a NEW one from Dave, but they have abandoned the 20” Classic design in favor of the UC design. ?
Future ??????? Gone... ?????? ? ? The only way your Ostahowski mirror is exponentially worse is if you have it mounted upside down. ? The diagonal is flat, so there isn’t a multiplying/fudging factor.? As you move a secondary closer to a primary the light cone it intercepts gets bigger.? That’s why you have “planet killer” Newtonians:? with really slow focal ratios you can mount a small secondary and get better contrast.? ?” won’t move you to another secondary size. ? If it were me, I’d cut ?” off, try the eyepieces and paracorr.? Then I’d make another round cutting, if necessary.? Only because I’ve overcut more than once.? ? -jeff ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of charles jagow
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 6:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5? Thank you for your help.? The previous owner contacted me after I had put the scope to bed last night.? He had the same problem, but he said he moved the mirror up via the collimation bolts such that his eyepieces (ETHOS) would come to focus.? I moved the mirror up with the collimation bolts to the point I could only see three threads of travel left on each.? I then re-collimated first with the Howie Glatter and then dialed it in with a visual Cat's Eye tool set.? This allowed my Nagler 17mm to pass through focus, allowing me to focus that eyepiece.? The seeing and transparency was horrible last night, but the view of Jupiter was very well defined with the Nagler 17.? Stars are well formed, a little comet shaped much closer to the edge.? The mirror combination is exponentially better than the Ostahowski mirror in my UC 18.
I was able to bring a few of the other eyepieces to focus, mostly those above 17mm.? The range of 7-12mm were not able to pass through focus inward, some were close but no banana. ? NONE of the eyepieces would come to focus with my adjustable Paracor.
My favorite eyepieces, Pentax XW series (5mm, 7mm,10mm, and 14mm) will not come to focus at all.
This issue must be corrected.? It is apparent to me that the strut poles are too long.? All of the poles measure the same length plus or minus a 1/32".? The depth of my blocks measures? 2 3/4" each, +/- 1/8".
I am inclined to cut my poles by a half of an inch each.? My non-existent? ATM skills/experience would tell me that this should solve my inward focus issue if I place the mirror in about the middle of the collimation bolt's travel.? What I don't know is what effect the Secondary mirror has on focal length calculations, if any at all.?
I am inclined to believe that either the 45 degree angle and/or just the reflection off of the secondary mirror has an effect on the focal length somehow???
Lets say I get my 17mm Nagler to come to focus with the mirror positioned (and collimated) near the midpoint of travel of the collimation bolts, if I then were to reduce the length of the poles by a 1/2", will this result in an extra 1/2" of inward focus travel at the focuser?? Or is this somehow increased or decreased due to the effect of the Secondary mirror??
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Chuck, I have the same scope as you, Obsession 20” F/5, except that my focal ratio is actually 4.92 and my scope and mirror were made in 1999.? I have had them since new.? ? Your focal length is another factor in the pole length required.? What is your mirror focal ratio?? It should be marked on the rear of the mirror, or maybe on the edge.? I’ll check mine here and let you know the length of my poles.? You can compare.? By the way, I have Naglers from 5mm up through a 35mm Panoptic.? I also have an Explorer Scientific 14mm 100 degree EP.? All come to focus. ? Double check proper seating of the poles inside your blocks and proper seating of the poles inside the aluminum clamps at the top. I also concur with the others’ remarks about the collimation screws position, but you have adjusted that already. Has something gone awry in the mirror cell supports?? Perhaps occurring during vehicle transit.? ? If you do go through with cutting your poles, I recommend a large tubing cutter, available a Lowes and Home Depot. However, before I would cut them, I would try to understand what has changed since 2007 to require them to be cut. ?Presumably prior owners had no major issues, but maybe they had different eyepieces.? Measure twice, cut once, of course, but first know “the rest of the story”. ? Good luck. ? Charlie ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of charles jagow Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 9:20 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5 ? Thank you for your help.? The previous owner contacted me after I had put the scope to bed last night.? He had the same problem, but he said he moved the mirror up via the collimation bolts such that his eyepieces (ETHOS) would come to focus.? I moved the mirror up with the collimation bolts to the point I could only see three threads of travel left on each.? I then re-collimated first with the Howie Glatter and then dialed it in with a visual Cat's Eye tool set.? This allowed my Nagler 17mm to pass through focus, allowing me to focus that eyepiece.? The seeing and transparency was horrible last night, but the view of Jupiter was very well defined with the Nagler 17.? Stars are well formed, a little comet shaped much closer to the edge.? The mirror combination is exponentially better than the Ostahowski mirror in my UC 18.
I was able to bring a few of the other eyepieces to focus, mostly those above 17mm.? The range of 7-12mm were not able to pass through focus inward, some were close but no banana. ? NONE of the eyepieces would come to focus with my adjustable Paracor.
My favorite eyepieces, Pentax XW series (5mm, 7mm,10mm, and 14mm) will not come to focus at all.
This issue must be corrected.? It is apparent to me that the strut poles are too long.? All of the poles measure the same length plus or minus a 1/32".? The depth of my blocks measures? 2 3/4" each, +/- 1/8".
I am inclined to cut my poles by a half of an inch each.? My non-existent? ATM skills/experience would tell me that this should solve my inward focus issue if I place the mirror in about the middle of the collimation bolt's travel.? What I don't know is what effect the Secondary mirror has on focal length calculations, if any at all.?
I am inclined to believe that either the 45 degree angle and/or just the reflection off of the secondary mirror has an effect on the focal length somehow???
Lets say I get my 17mm Nagler to come to focus with the mirror positioned (and collimated) near the midpoint of travel of the collimation bolts, if I then were to reduce the length of the poles by a 1/2", will this result in an extra 1/2" of inward focus travel at the focuser?? Or is this somehow increased or decreased due to the effect of the Secondary mirror??
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
The only way your Ostahowski mirror is exponentially worse is if you have it mounted upside down. ? The diagonal is flat, so there isn’t a multiplying/fudging factor.? As you move a secondary closer to a primary the light cone it intercepts gets bigger.? That’s why you have “planet killer” Newtonians:? with really slow focal ratios you can mount a small secondary and get better contrast.? ?” won’t move you to another secondary size. ? If it were me, I’d cut ?” off, try the eyepieces and paracorr.? Then I’d make another round cutting, if necessary.? Only because I’ve overcut more than once.? ? -jeff ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of charles jagow
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 6:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5? Thank you for your help.? The previous owner contacted me after I had put the scope to bed last night.? He had the same problem, but he said he moved the mirror up via the collimation bolts such that his eyepieces (ETHOS) would come to focus.? I moved the mirror up with the collimation bolts to the point I could only see three threads of travel left on each.? I then re-collimated first with the Howie Glatter and then dialed it in with a visual Cat's Eye tool set.? This allowed my Nagler 17mm to pass through focus, allowing me to focus that eyepiece.? The seeing and transparency was horrible last night, but the view of Jupiter was very well defined with the Nagler 17.? Stars are well formed, a little comet shaped much closer to the edge.? The mirror combination is exponentially better than the Ostahowski mirror in my UC 18.
I was able to bring a few of the other eyepieces to focus, mostly those above 17mm.? The range of 7-12mm were not able to pass through focus inward, some were close but no banana. ? NONE of the eyepieces would come to focus with my adjustable Paracor.
My favorite eyepieces, Pentax XW series (5mm, 7mm,10mm, and 14mm) will not come to focus at all.
This issue must be corrected.? It is apparent to me that the strut poles are too long.? All of the poles measure the same length plus or minus a 1/32".? The depth of my blocks measures? 2 3/4" each, +/- 1/8".
I am inclined to cut my poles by a half of an inch each.? My non-existent? ATM skills/experience would tell me that this should solve my inward focus issue if I place the mirror in about the middle of the collimation bolt's travel.? What I don't know is what effect the Secondary mirror has on focal length calculations, if any at all.?
I am inclined to believe that either the 45 degree angle and/or just the reflection off of the secondary mirror has an effect on the focal length somehow???
Lets say I get my 17mm Nagler to come to focus with the mirror positioned (and collimated) near the midpoint of travel of the collimation bolts, if I then were to reduce the length of the poles by a 1/2", will this result in an extra 1/2" of inward focus travel at the focuser?? Or is this somehow increased or decreased due to the effect of the Secondary mirror??
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Thank you for your help.? The previous owner contacted me after I had put the scope to bed last night.? He had the same problem, but he said he moved the mirror up via the collimation bolts such that his eyepieces (ETHOS) would come to focus.? I moved the mirror up with the collimation bolts to the point I could only see three threads of travel left on each.? I then re-collimated first with the Howie Glatter and then dialed it in with a visual Cat's Eye tool set.? This allowed my Nagler 17mm to pass through focus, allowing me to focus that eyepiece.? The seeing and transparency was horrible last night, but the view of Jupiter was very well defined with the Nagler 17.? Stars are well formed, a little comet shaped much closer to the edge.? The mirror combination is exponentially better than the Ostahowski mirror in my UC 18.
I was able to bring a few of the other eyepieces to focus, mostly those above 17mm.? The range of 7-12mm were not able to pass through focus inward, some were close but no banana. ? NONE of the eyepieces would come to focus with my adjustable Paracor.
My favorite eyepieces, Pentax XW series (5mm, 7mm,10mm, and 14mm) will not come to focus at all.
This issue must be corrected.? It is apparent to me that the strut poles are too long.? All of the poles measure the same length plus or minus a 1/32".? The depth of my blocks measures? 2 3/4" each, +/- 1/8".
I am inclined to cut my poles by a half of an inch each.? My non-existent? ATM skills/experience would tell me that this should solve my inward focus issue if I place the mirror in about the middle of the collimation bolt's travel.? What I don't know is what effect the Secondary mirror has on focal length calculations, if any at all.?
I am inclined to believe that either the 45 degree angle and/or just the reflection off of the secondary mirror has an effect on the focal length somehow???
Lets say I get my 17mm Nagler to come to focus with the mirror positioned (and collimated) near the midpoint of travel of the collimation bolts, if I then were to reduce the length of the poles by a 1/2", will this result in an extra 1/2" of inward focus travel at the focuser?? Or is this somehow increased or decreased due to the effect of the Secondary mirror??
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I have had the same problem and it was because the mirror was not seated correctly. I agree with the above comments and would start with adjusting the mirror mount first.?
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Hi Charles,
I agree with the previous answers, depending of the direction where you see you come close to focus, inward or outward, but you do not reach it, you have to move the mirror up if inward, down if outward to bring the focus point within the range of the focuser. It happens when collimation after collimation you move the mirror in the same direction up to a point where the focus point get out of the focuser range. Of course you will have to decollimate the primary.
贵谤é诲é谤颈肠
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Yes, he needs to move the primary up, closer to the secondary. I'll bet the collimation bolts are backed way out. Move that mirror up half an inch and see how that works.
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I thought it sounds like he needs to get the primary mirror closer to the secondary...
On Mon., Jul. 19, 2021, 9:21 p.m. bob414, < bob414@...> wrote: Greetings from someone from your old stomping grounds.? ? I agree with Mark, back off all the collimation screws/bolts, this positions the primary mirror the farthest from the secondary mirror and re collimate.? I had the same problem on my 12” Orion and recently on a 18” Obsession.? The 12” had a damaged threads on one bolt, I cleaned that up and was able to get the primary further back in the cell. ? You might have a situation where someone modified, the poles.? If you know anyone with the same scope, measure the pole length. ? Hope this helps. ? Bob (bill) Beuerlein ? ? ? ? I've got an 18" classic - you have quite a bit of up-travel on your mirror - run the collimation bots up a bit and see if that give you enough in travel. Just a thought.
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Greetings from someone from your old stomping grounds.? ? I agree with Mark, back off all the collimation screws/bolts, this positions the primary mirror the farthest from the secondary mirror and re collimate.? I had the same problem on my 12” Orion and recently on a 18” Obsession.? The 12” had a damaged threads on one bolt, I cleaned that up and was able to get the primary further back in the cell. ? You might have a situation where someone modified, the poles.? If you know anyone with the same scope, measure the pole length. ? Hope this helps. ? Bob (bill) Beuerlein ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Mark Gregory Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:38 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5 ? I've got an 18" classic - you have quite a bit of up-travel on your mirror - run the collimation bots up a bit and see if that give you enough in travel. Just a thought.
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I had a similar experience once but I found my collimation screws had backed out nearly all the way from extensive travelling/bumpy roads.
FYI, the truss poles on my 20" F5 classic are ~65-7/8" with ~2-3/4" inserted into the wood retaining blocks.
Hope this helps.
On Mon., Jul. 19, 2021, 8:36 p.m. charles jagow, < chuck@...> wrote: I just acquired a 2007 classic Obsession 20" F5.? The scope looks to be in excellent shape.? I assembled the scope being careful to place the strut poles in the blocks according to the previous owners labels on the blocks and poles.? Attached the Upper Cage Assembly and collimated the mirrors with my HG laser and then also eyeballed it with the cats eye tools.? I just rolled the scope out to look at the moon.? I am unable to bring??? ANY?? of my eyepieces to focus on the moon.? 17mm Nagler, 35mm Orion Deep View, 42mm Deep view, 40 mm Meade Plossl, and many others, tried everything in my case.?
The focuser is racked all the way in, not enough inward travel.
I double checked to ensure the poles are fully seated in the blocks on the mirror box, and that the Upper Cage Assembly is properly seated on the poles and secured.
I have an Obsession 18 UC, but this is my first experience with an Obsession Classic.
What am I doing wrong??
I have had many DOBs but this is my first really big classic style.
v/r
Chuck J.
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
Read before send. BOLTS, not BOTS.
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Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I would send this email to Dave Kriege.
On Mon, Jul 19, 2021 at 9:36 PM charles jagow < chuck@...> wrote: I just acquired a 2007 classic Obsession 20" F5.? The scope looks to be in excellent shape.? I assembled the scope being careful to place the strut poles in the blocks according to the previous owners labels on the blocks and poles.? Attached the Upper Cage Assembly and collimated the mirrors with my HG laser and then also eyeballed it with the cats eye tools.? I just rolled the scope out to look at the moon.? I am unable to bring??? ANY?? of my eyepieces to focus on the moon.? 17mm Nagler, 35mm Orion Deep View, 42mm Deep view, 40 mm Meade Plossl, and many others, tried everything in my case.?
The focuser is racked all the way in, not enough inward travel.
I double checked to ensure the poles are fully seated in the blocks on the mirror box, and that the Upper Cage Assembly is properly seated on the poles and secured.
I have an Obsession 18 UC, but this is my first experience with an Obsession Classic.
What am I doing wrong??
I have had many DOBs but this is my first really big classic style.
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Re: HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I've got an 18" classic - you have quite a bit of up-travel on your mirror - run the collimation bots up a bit and see if that give you enough in travel. Just a thought.
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HELP! 20" Obsession Classic F5
I just acquired a 2007 classic Obsession 20" F5.? The scope looks to be in excellent shape.? I assembled the scope being careful to place the strut poles in the blocks according to the previous owners labels on the blocks and poles.? Attached the Upper Cage Assembly and collimated the mirrors with my HG laser and then also eyeballed it with the cats eye tools.? I just rolled the scope out to look at the moon.? I am unable to bring??? ANY?? of my eyepieces to focus on the moon.? 17mm Nagler, 35mm Orion Deep View, 42mm Deep view, 40 mm Meade Plossl, and many others, tried everything in my case.?
The focuser is racked all the way in, not enough inward travel.
I double checked to ensure the poles are fully seated in the blocks on the mirror box, and that the Upper Cage Assembly is properly seated on the poles and secured.
I have an Obsession 18 UC, but this is my first experience with an Obsession Classic.
What am I doing wrong??
I have had many DOBs but this is my first really big classic style.
v/r
Chuck J.
|
Bob , Jeff , and others,
Thank you so much for your advice.? I am going to get the tripod ladder first and then will try to get another ladder to steal steps from.? Nobody seems to have tripod ladders in stock.? So I have to pay for shipping and that can be as much as the ladder.? Oh well.? Please let me know if anyone sees an astronomy ladder for sale in the eight to nine foot range.??
Thanks again.? Clear skies!
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: Netscape via groups.io <P21932@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jul 9, 2021 10:17 pm
Subject: Re: [ObsessionUsers] Three legged ladder
After reading all of this I am very glad that I contacted Tallman ladders 10 years ago or so and was able to order an Astronomy ladder and go pick it up direct from them (only about an hour from me). At the time they said they were not certain how much longer they would be making them. Glad I didn’t hesitate.?
On Jul 9, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky via groups.io <indanapt@...> wrote:
?
I was lucky to get a 2 meter Astronomy ladder in a group buy many years ago. I think my friend with a 25 f/5 got the 2.5m
I know someone with a modified ladder. They placed intermediary steps. It is not quite as nice.?
And be much more careful going up and down. I noticed the cadence took some getting used to and needed to warn myself
to slow down.?
And if you were to fall backwards, universe forgive, make sure your foot can not get caught between the steps.
I friend placed a heft wooden dowel as a hand hold (I think it could switch sides) near the top. I think it just slid into brackets?
on either side of the ladder. A confidence builder.?
After using tripod ladders it's hard to go back back using other's at their scopes. It's so stable on almost any surface.?
Clear skies!
Jeff
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 09:21:52 AM PDT, bobrose@... <bobrose@...> wrote:
I drilled through the front and back edge of the channels of the new ladder pretty much matching the intent of the original manufacturing process.
Bob, ?Thanks so much?for the info. You got some steps from an old ladder (donation?ladder)??to add to your astronomy ladder, ?Do you remember how you got the steps off the donation?ladder? ?That was were I am seeing rivets etc.?
Once?you got the steps off did you:?
Drill?holes into the side rails of the astronomy ladder?to attach the steps you were adding and use nuts and bolted to attach the new steps? ?Hope these questions make sense. I am just?trying
to make a safe ladder. Yours looked really solid. ?
?
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:49 AM, bobrose500 <bobrose500@...> wrote:
I did not risk removing the factory steps. Just added some in. Do remember that any modifications to the ladder will probably void any manufacture warranty/liability.? That being said, it is a lot more comfortable on your feet and back.
Bob Rose
Hello,
I just joined this group.? I was a member of the old group and have missed the postings.? I own a 25" F/5 Classic Obsession and have been saving for a tripod ladder.? Unfortunately I guess I waited too long.? ?Strathmore and Tallman no longer make their Astronomy
tripod ladders.? I have been considering purchasing a Werner tripod ladder and altering it by adding steps in between the existing steps like Bob mentions in January 2020 post.? Anyone have any advice on how to do this safely (add the extra steps) and not
compromise the integrity of the ladder?? I thought of buying a used standard Werner ladder and somehow use its steps for the added steps.? Most of these ladders have the steps riveted on and I'm not sure how the undo the rivets.? Any other advice on where
I could find an 8 or 9 foot tripod ladder with steps that are 6"-8" apart??
Thanks,
Craig
|
After reading all of this I am very glad that I contacted Tallman ladders 10 years ago or so and was able to order an Astronomy ladder and go pick it up direct from them (only about an hour from me). At the time they said they were not certain how much longer they would be making them. Glad I didn’t hesitate.?
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On Jul 9, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky via groups.io <indanapt@...> wrote:
? I was lucky to get a 2 meter Astronomy ladder in a group buy many years ago. I think my friend with a 25 f/5 got the 2.5m I know someone with a modified ladder. They placed intermediary steps. It is not quite as nice.?
And be much more careful going up and down. I noticed the cadence took some getting used to and needed to warn myself to slow down.?
And if you were to fall backwards, universe forgive, make sure your foot can not get caught between the steps. I friend placed a heft wooden dowel as a hand hold (I think it could switch sides) near the top. I think it just slid into brackets? on either side of the ladder. A confidence builder.?
After using tripod ladders it's hard to go back back using other's at their scopes. It's so stable on almost any surface.? Clear skies! Jeff
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 09:21:52 AM PDT, bobrose@... <bobrose@...> wrote:
I drilled through the front and back edge of the channels of the new ladder pretty much matching the intent of the original manufacturing process.
Bob, ?Thanks so much?for the info. You got some steps from an old ladder (donation?ladder)??to add to your astronomy ladder, ?Do you remember how you got the steps off the donation?ladder? ?That was were I am seeing rivets etc.?
Once?you got the steps off did you:?
Drill?holes into the side rails of the astronomy ladder?to attach the steps you were adding and use nuts and bolted to attach the new steps? ?Hope these questions make sense. I am just?trying
to make a safe ladder. Yours looked really solid. ?
?
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:49 AM, bobrose500 <bobrose500@...> wrote:
I did not risk removing the factory steps. Just added some in. Do remember that any modifications to the ladder will probably void any manufacture warranty/liability.? That being said, it is a lot more comfortable on your feet and back.
Bob Rose
Hello,
I just joined this group.? I was a member of the old group and have missed the postings.? I own a 25" F/5 Classic Obsession and have been saving for a tripod ladder.? Unfortunately I guess I waited too long.? ?Strathmore and Tallman no longer make their Astronomy
tripod ladders.? I have been considering purchasing a Werner tripod ladder and altering it by adding steps in between the existing steps like Bob mentions in January 2020 post.? Anyone have any advice on how to do this safely (add the extra steps) and not
compromise the integrity of the ladder?? I thought of buying a used standard Werner ladder and somehow use its steps for the added steps.? Most of these ladders have the steps riveted on and I'm not sure how the undo the rivets.? Any other advice on where
I could find an 8 or 9 foot tripod ladder with steps that are 6"-8" apart??
Thanks,
Craig
|
I was lucky to get a 2 meter Astronomy ladder in a group buy many years ago. I think my friend with a 25 f/5 got the 2.5m I know someone with a modified ladder. They placed intermediary steps. It is not quite as nice.?
And be much more careful going up and down. I noticed the cadence took some getting used to and needed to warn myself to slow down.?
And if you were to fall backwards, universe forgive, make sure your foot can not get caught between the steps. I friend placed a heft wooden dowel as a hand hold (I think it could switch sides) near the top. I think it just slid into brackets? on either side of the ladder. A confidence builder.?
After using tripod ladders it's hard to go back back using other's at their scopes. It's so stable on almost any surface.? Clear skies! Jeff
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 09:21:52 AM PDT, bobrose@... <bobrose@...> wrote:
I drilled through the front and back edge of the channels of the new ladder pretty much matching the intent of the original manufacturing process.
Bob, ?Thanks so much?for the info. You got some steps from an old ladder (donation?ladder)??to add to your astronomy ladder, ?Do you remember how you got the steps off the donation?ladder? ?That was were I am seeing rivets etc.?
Once?you got the steps off did you:?
Drill?holes into the side rails of the astronomy ladder?to attach the steps you were adding and use nuts and bolted to attach the new steps? ?Hope these questions make sense. I am just?trying
to make a safe ladder. Yours looked really solid. ?
?
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:49 AM, bobrose500 <bobrose500@...> wrote:
I did not risk removing the factory steps. Just added some in. Do remember that any modifications to the ladder will probably void any manufacture warranty/liability.? That being said, it is a lot more comfortable on your feet and back.
Bob Rose
Hello,
I just joined this group.? I was a member of the old group and have missed the postings.? I own a 25" F/5 Classic Obsession and have been saving for a tripod ladder.? Unfortunately I guess I waited too long.? ?Strathmore and Tallman no longer make their Astronomy
tripod ladders.? I have been considering purchasing a Werner tripod ladder and altering it by adding steps in between the existing steps like Bob mentions in January 2020 post.? Anyone have any advice on how to do this safely (add the extra steps) and not
compromise the integrity of the ladder?? I thought of buying a used standard Werner ladder and somehow use its steps for the added steps.? Most of these ladders have the steps riveted on and I'm not sure how the undo the rivets.? Any other advice on where
I could find an 8 or 9 foot tripod ladder with steps that are 6"-8" apart??
Thanks,
Craig
|
I drilled through the front and back edge of the channels of the new ladder pretty much matching the intent of the original manufacturing process.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bob, ?Thanks so much?for the info. You got some steps from an old ladder (donation?ladder)??to add to your astronomy ladder, ?Do you remember how you got the steps off the donation?ladder? ?That was were I am seeing rivets etc.?
Once?you got the steps off did you:?
Drill?holes into the side rails of the astronomy ladder?to attach the steps you were adding and use nuts and bolted to attach the new steps? ?Hope these questions make sense. I am just?trying
to make a safe ladder. Yours looked really solid. ?
?
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:49 AM, bobrose500 <bobrose500@...> wrote:
I did not risk removing the factory steps. Just added some in. Do remember that any modifications to the ladder will probably void any manufacture warranty/liability.? That being said, it is a lot more comfortable on your feet and back.
Bob Rose
Hello,
I just joined this group.? I was a member of the old group and have missed the postings.? I own a 25" F/5 Classic Obsession and have been saving for a tripod ladder.? Unfortunately I guess I waited too long.? ?Strathmore and Tallman no longer make their Astronomy
tripod ladders.? I have been considering purchasing a Werner tripod ladder and altering it by adding steps in between the existing steps like Bob mentions in January 2020 post.? Anyone have any advice on how to do this safely (add the extra steps) and not
compromise the integrity of the ladder?? I thought of buying a used standard Werner ladder and somehow use its steps for the added steps.? Most of these ladders have the steps riveted on and I'm not sure how the undo the rivets.? Any other advice on where
I could find an 8 or 9 foot tripod ladder with steps that are 6"-8" apart??
Thanks,
Craig
|
On the donor ladder I just drilled them out. A couple of rivets were a little obstinate.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bob, ?Thanks so much?for the info. You got some steps from an old ladder (donation?ladder)??to add to your astronomy ladder, ?Do you remember how you got the steps off the donation?ladder? ?That was were I am seeing rivets etc.?
Once?you got the steps off did you:?
Drill?holes into the side rails of the astronomy ladder?to attach the steps you were adding and use nuts and bolted to attach the new steps? ?Hope these questions make sense. I am just?trying
to make a safe ladder. Yours looked really solid. ?
?
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:49 AM, bobrose500 <bobrose500@...> wrote:
I did not risk removing the factory steps. Just added some in. Do remember that any modifications to the ladder will probably void any manufacture warranty/liability.? That being said, it is a lot more comfortable on your feet and back.
Bob Rose
Hello,
I just joined this group.? I was a member of the old group and have missed the postings.? I own a 25" F/5 Classic Obsession and have been saving for a tripod ladder.? Unfortunately I guess I waited too long.? ?Strathmore and Tallman no longer make their Astronomy
tripod ladders.? I have been considering purchasing a Werner tripod ladder and altering it by adding steps in between the existing steps like Bob mentions in January 2020 post.? Anyone have any advice on how to do this safely (add the extra steps) and not
compromise the integrity of the ladder?? I thought of buying a used standard Werner ladder and somehow use its steps for the added steps.? Most of these ladders have the steps riveted on and I'm not sure how the undo the rivets.? Any other advice on where
I could find an 8 or 9 foot tripod ladder with steps that are 6"-8" apart??
Thanks,
Craig
|
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