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wrote: pinions? the bigginer If you haven't already, go to this site: http://www.CNCzone.com There is a plethora of various DIY machines and just as many different drive systems. where you

Hi Robert - I made my own. I use Amplified photo home switches, which in and of themselves are optoisolated, my limits and estop go thru 4n25s, my step & dir line go thru a filter/ amp/ inverter, and

Thank all of you for your input and opinions. Does anyone have pictures of there chain drives and belt drives and rack and pinions? I think this will help alot. Also, about the 5 axis, I have seen the

One of the advantages of using the Sound Logic breakout board is that it includes an optical isolator on the input. The optical isolator in effect eliminated the very short false triggers. You can use

I use 10Ks with no problem, the reason is to supply a positive "Pull Up" to the ttl signal, you only need a little bit of power, so 10K works fine, Without them, you run the risk of false triggers.

I have no idea. I know that sound stupid but I have seen a few diagrams that have that. Maybe domeone can answer that question. Andre wrote:

I am using a proximity switch in NC mode. I do not use any resistor (e.g. 4.7k) and it still works. Do I need a resistor for my limit switches and what are the advantages/disadvantages with using a

I'm trying to finish up my gantry router and I'm at the limit switch part. Here's what I was thinking of doing. Take the 5v from the pc and run it through a 4.7k resistor to a NC limitswitch and then

I have a question about Mach2 limit switches: When Mach2 senses that one of the limit switches has been triggered, how do I jog off the end of one of the axis? All of my X axis limit switches is

Not true....I'm driving my lead screws with chain and sprocket. I have a whisker of backlash in the leadscrew nut but nothing...zero...between the chain and sprocket. I've been running it for a year

Well If I had the money I'd do it with the Canadarm ;-) But then what do you expect from a crazy Canuck (the correct spelling). TTFN Vern.

A few newbie questions: 1. I set up the machine to be an x,y,z and c mill. Why on the main screen (program1 display screen does A display rather than C. C works ok, however. 2. I am somewhat familiar

Chain and sprocket is OK for driving things in one direction where backlash isn't a problem, like ancient aero props ;) Not if you want any sort of accuracy. Toothed belt drive is much better, and

the problem is the 12mm .. its just an arbitary value, there will not be a standard procedure or OEM code for this, because you use 12mm, other people might use somehting entirely different. .... so

hi all if my machine coords are set and defined and i then jog the tool to a start position at the workpiece with a 12 mm slip-gauge between the tool tip and surface, i will set my prog dro to x=0 y=0

Robin, Thank you for taking time to respond to my question. I will study the movement more closely. I don't have the machine hooked up to the pc yet, but I do have the motors turning on the bench, and

Robin, Thank you for taking time to respond to my question. I will study the movement more closely. I don't have the machine hooked up to the pc yet, but I do have the motors turning on the bench, and

Robin, Thank you for taking time to respond to my question. I will study the movement more closely. I don't have the machine hooked up to the pc yet, but I do have the motors turning on the bench, and

It seems to me that, I've noticed here before, that for large size tables chain and sprockets work quite well. Remember the Wright Bros. Cheers, Vern.

My understanding is that the display may show a chord, (because the display point is only sampled 10 times a second or so) but the actual machine will follow a true arc. One 'trick' you might like to