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Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Jeremy Taylor
Somehow I see this in my mind, and the cutter would have to be to the right
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of the line when it is top left, but when it moves to top right, the cutter would need to actually be on the left of the line. Look at the machine from where I SIT. Now If I imagined that I was riding on the cutter, and if every time the cutter changed directions, I was swung around so that I was always facing the direction the cutter was traveling, then ... THEN I could see it as always being to the right.... ok ok I think I'm starting to grasp this. JT JT. |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
stevenson_engineers
--- In mach1mach2cnc@..., "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j... wrote:JT. No this is wrong. Re read Mike reply #7682 Don't think of the cutter being above or below the line, this will confuse you. Think in terms of what side of the line is the cutter when the tool is moving forward. If you are cutting an internal square and you start top left corner and move to top right the cutter will always be to the right of the line no matter what side it is cutting. John S. |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
--- In mach1mach2cnc@..., "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:
I have no control over CW, OR CCW rotation, all I can set is speed,and at 30000rpm my experience has shown that cuts just as well in eitherdirection, If I was using the tool by hand, it would feed easier in onedirection, but now that it's cnc'c - it's just as smooth in either direction.the compensation would have to change, from being off to the left,under, off to the right, and above ~ the line. If the tool path was like I'd doit by hand (in once, out once), but instead the tool comes up and reenters a couple of timesor G42 is driving me crazy.invest in decent cad/cam package, although All I need is "simple!" 2d cutouts.dxf import, attached is gif of what it supposed to look like. It's fora snap in AC outlet. (everything inside the lines need to go, but nothingon, or outside the line should be cut.enters the work. I believe this import DXF was already hand drawn smallerby 1.5MM There comes a time in most CNC'rs lives when they realize that CAM is a good thing. Just like a calculator makes math easier than with a pencil, when the important thing becomes the part and not the action of laying it out, CAM takes all of the durgery out and does all of the calculations for you. In a good CAM program you should see the orginal part on the screen. You should be able to click on a path and and choices for a tool, depth and speed are one click away. The choice of tool should automatically put the toolpath where it should be after you select an on-line, inside or outside cut. More advanced programs also let you decide which direction you cut. It's last job is to spit out a valid g-code file that will run without a problem on your software controller. For those that complain that they want to change the toolpath in g- code at the machine, they guess they feel the need for control. It takes less than a minute for me to go back in my CAM program (one reason I like running a Windows controller like MACH2) and change the tool definition and recalculate the toolpaths. I guess I have gotten lazy over the years and I require a less hands-on approach to cutting things. I remember when we had to hand code everything from a blueprint into g-code and punch it in a papertape. Any changes took hours. I LOVE the fact I can draw something, click a few buttons and have the machine running the part in a few minutes. I don't miss the hand coding one bit. TC |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
notoneleft
Some of the smarter CAM programs automatically generate a toolpaththat is offset With G41/G42, you don't need to do this at all. Just throw in the G41 or G42, and Mach2 will do the offsets for you. If your cutting a square, for example, and your tool is moving around the square CCW, then you'd use G42 to offset your bit to the right side of the path. Once you start using G41 and G42, you'll never go back. It makes things much easier. Gerry |
Re: Version 5.0
Fantastic, Art, enjoy your trip you deserve it.
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Jim ----- Original Message -----
From: "Art" <fenerty@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [mach1mach2cnc] Re: Version 5.0 WHoooo HOooooo, my final act before shutting down and flying away, I foundmenus are instant. Things are much faster without that particular bug....5 hours.... |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Michael Milligan
Ross
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Cutter comp actually has two main functions :- 1) Just as you say to compensate for tool wear on re-ground or undersize tools. 2) In industry quite often the person producing the Part program does not know what cutting tools are on hand at the machine tool. Maybe I do not have a 10mm tool but I do have an 8mm tool. If the part program employs G41/G42 I can cut it but if not I have to request a new program. The logistics become more involved if the part program is being sent to a sub-contractor offsite. Regards michael -----Original Message-----
From: rrc62_03782 [mailto:rrc62@...] Sent: 07 March 2004 02:47 To: mach1mach2cnc@... Subject: [mach1mach2cnc] Re: G41 (was: First drawing software) --- In mach1mach2cnc@..., "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote: OK - so how do I determine which side of my drawn lines gets theIf I understand tool diameter compensation correctly, it is not designed to compensate for the tool radius but more designed to compensate for slight variations in tool diameter due to sharpening. To profile a part, offset your cut line vector by the tool radius either to the left or right, depending on if you want to cut on the inside or outside. Save the offset vectors to a dxf and send that to Mach2. Some of the smarter CAM programs automatically generate a toolpath that is offset by the tool radius and some make you do the offset manually. Artcam does it automatically. On more complex parts I prefer to do it manually. I have more control over the final outcome that way. Ross Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT < roupweb/S=1705063697:HM/EXP=1078714013/A=2019528/R=2/SIG=141upc4go/*http :/ad.doubleclick.net/jump/N3349.yahoo1/B1282054.27;abr=!ie4;abr=!ie5;sz= 300x250;code=18634;dcopt=rcl;ord=1078627613777090?> Click Here <;abr=!ie4;abr=!ie5 ;sz=300x250;code=18634;dcopt=rcl;ord=1078627613777090?> Click Here < pweb/S=:HM/A=2019528/rand=306172739> _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: mach1mach2cnc-unsubscribe@... <mailto:mach1mach2cnc-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of <> Service. |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Jeremy Taylor
This is what I have been doing, and particularly on complex stuff, I'd
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rather have it done automatically. -- So now I have conflicting information <,g> ----- Original Message -----
From: "rrc62_03782" <rrc62@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 9:46 PM Subject: [mach1mach2cnc] Re: G41 (was: First drawing software) --- In mach1mach2cnc@..., "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:toOK - so how do I determine which side of my drawn lines gets theIf I understand tool diameter compensation correctly, it is not designed compensate for the tool radius but more designed to compensate for slightvariations in tool diameter due to sharpening.to the left or right, depending on if you want to cut on the inside or outside. Save theoffset vectors to a dxf and send that to Mach2.offset by the tool radius and some make you do the offset manually. Artcam doesit automatically. On more complex parts I prefer to do it manually. I havemore control over the final outcome that way. |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Jeremy Taylor
I have no control over CW, OR CCW rotation, all I can set is speed, and at
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30000rpm my experience has shown that cuts just as well in either direction, If I was using the tool by hand, it would feed easier in one direction, but now that it's cnc'c - it's just as smooth in either direction. Consider the cutout a square, as you follow the line on the inside, the compensation would have to change, from being off to the left, under, off to the right, and above ~ the line. If the tool path was like I'd do it by hand (in once, out once), but instead the tool comes up and re enters a couple of times Trying to keep track of which section of a single cutout need G41, or G42 is driving me crazy. As soon as I recover from purchasing a plating system, I will invest in decent cad/cam package, although All I need is "simple!" 2d cutouts. For giggles here is an example of what Mach2 came up with from my dxf import, attached is gif of what it supposed to look like. It's for a snap in AC outlet. (everything inside the lines need to go, but nothing on, or outside the line should be cut. (in MM) F20.000000 G0 X0.000000 Y0.000000 Z0.200000 M3 S20.000000 G0 X0.000000 Y0.000000 Z0.200000 G0 X0.050800 Y18.262600 Z0.200000 G1 X0.050800 Y18.262600 Z-0.100000 G1 X8.483600 Y18.262600 Z-0.100000 G1 X8.483600 Y24.257000 Z-0.100000 G0 X8.483600 Y24.257000 Z0.200000 G0 X17.780000 Y24.257000 Z0.200000 G1 X17.780000 Y24.257000 Z-0.100000 G1 X17.780000 Y18.262600 Z-0.100000 G1 X26.187400 Y18.262600 Z-0.100000 G1 X26.187400 Y7.950200 Z-0.100000 G1 X22.199600 Y7.950200 Z-0.100000 G1 X22.199600 Y0.000000 Z-0.100000 G1 X3.987800 Y0.000000 Z-0.100000 G1 X3.987800 Y7.950200 Z-0.100000 G1 X0.000000 Y7.924800 Z-0.100000 G1 X0.050800 Y18.237200 Z-0.100000 G0 X0.050800 Y18.237200 Z0.200000 G0 X8.483600 Y24.257000 Z0.200000 G1 X8.483600 Y24.257000 Z-0.100000 G1 X17.780000 Y24.257000 Z-0.100000 G0 X17.780000 Y24.257000 Z0.200000 M5 G0 X0.000000 Y0.200000 Z0.000000 I'm assuming I'd need a g41 or g42 before each point where the Z re-enters the work. I believe this import DXF was already hand drawn smaller by 1.5MM JT ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Milligan" <zen11777@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 9:41 PM Subject: RE: [mach1mach2cnc] G41 (was: First drawing software) JT |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
--- In mach1mach2cnc@..., "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:
OK - so how do I determine which side of my drawn lines gets theIf I understand tool diameter compensation correctly, it is not designed to compensate for the tool radius but more designed to compensate for slight variations in tool diameter due to sharpening. To profile a part, offset your cut line vector by the tool radius either to the left or right, depending on if you want to cut on the inside or outside. Save the offset vectors to a dxf and send that to Mach2. Some of the smarter CAM programs automatically generate a toolpath that is offset by the tool radius and some make you do the offset manually. Artcam does it automatically. On more complex parts I prefer to do it manually. I have more control over the final outcome that way. Ross |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Michael Milligan
JT
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O the assumption that the Tool Spindle is Rotating in a clockwise direction and that you are Cutting normally (as opposed to Climb Milling) the Tool is placed to the LEFT of the material being cut where LEFT/RIGHT is relative to the direction of the tool. Imagine you are sitting on the tool facing the direction of travel, the material (geometry line/arc) should be on your Right Shoulder. This affect is achieved by using G41 (Left Compensation), to place the tool on the other side Of the Geometry use G42 (Right Compensation). Again, Imagine the tool going round the outside of a circle in a clockwise direction. With the Spindle rotating Clockwise the forward motion of the axes is working with the cutting forces of the tool as it rotates into the material. If the tool were on the inside of the circle and going in a clockwise direction the cutting forces of the tool would be working against the forward motion. This is the type of thing that CAM Systems take care of for you. Regards Michael -----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Taylor [mailto:jt@...] Sent: 07 March 2004 01:19 To: mach1mach2cnc@... Subject: Re: [mach1mach2cnc] G41 (was: First drawing software) OK - so how do I determine which side of my drawn lines gets the compensation? If I'm doing a cut out, I need the compensation to fall on the inside of the cut, IF I'm forming a piece, I'd need the compensation on the outside, however I cant seem to figure out how to tell Mach2 which I want to do, doing as you described in the previous reply. Art suggested a while ago, that it MUST be done in the CAD program. and hence my hand redrawn designs whit the lines falling on center of the cut. And my lines are set back 1.5mm so that the end result is what I needed. JT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Szemeti" <list@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 5:40 AM Subject: Re: [mach1mach2cnc] (First drawing software (was cnc plasma) On Saturday 06 March 2004 10:13, Jeremy Taylor wrote:toolingWhich versions of your software, have the capacity to figuring quickoffset, or... bit diameter? bit)tools, and I have to "hand" offset my drawings by 3mm (diameter of to andkeep them true.no you don;t :) then put G41 or whatever in your GCODE file and it will offset andapply cutter radius compensation on the fly.effectiveI'm looking for something that can automatically do thisFor automtaically doing it, Dolphin CAM is probably the most cost option. For 3 axis stuff it simple to use compared to some of the morearound for the Mach2 special offer on Dolphin which brings it down to a verygood price.plasma) plasma)Scout normal able toS&H&T. I use AutoCAD a lot and for 2D work QuickCad is easier. plasma)do everything I've asked of it, and for $48.00 whats to lose. do is to myjust andnext question. muchsuch. I guess most 2D shapes are simple, but I won't be doing buymetal art until probably next year. So what software should I to havestart out with: Corel Draw, Quickdraw, or something else? I butheard of some problems with Corel Draw for this type of work, I'mdon't not ------------------------------------------------------------------------ of------ <mailto:mach1mach2cnc-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>Service. of --<> Service. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT < roupweb/S=1705063697:HM/EXP=1078709083/A=2019528/R=2/SIG=141lmkq8u/*http :/ad.doubleclick.net/jump/N3349.yahoo1/B1282054.27;abr=!ie4;abr=!ie5;sz= 300x250;code=18634;dcopt=rcl;ord=1078622683746325?> Click Here <;abr=!ie4;abr=!ie5 ;sz=300x250;code=18634;dcopt=rcl;ord=1078622683746325?> Click Here < pweb/S=:HM/A=2019528/rand=853193137> _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: mach1mach2cnc-unsubscribe@... <mailto:mach1mach2cnc-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of <> Service. |
Re: Spindle sensors
arturodu
My lathe has a nice encoder (not sure how many pulses per rev). I
weird it and I can the pulse train as the spindle turns. Is there a way to connect this encoder for threading? I have not been able to find a place in the program to configure the Timing pulse, or anything to indicate the number of pulses per rev. Thanks, Arturo Duncan --- In mach1mach2cnc@..., Art <fenerty@a...> wrote: Hi John:but if you drop a DRO #66 onto a screen, it can be used for the entranceangle of a thread. Its value is from 0 - 360 degrees, so just by changingthat value and using the same code, you can get multi-turn threads... (Justan option..) |
Re: Version 5.0
Ed Gilbert
Hey Art,
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Great news, have a good vacation. Just be careful not to look like the worm in the bottle before you come home! :) Best, Ed Gilbert Gilbert Engineered Systems 632 Warrenton-Embro Road Macon, NC 27551 252-257-0539 -----Original Message----- ------------------------------------- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by NCOL.NET, and is believed to be clean. |
Re: Version 5.0
Art
WHoooo HOooooo, my final act before shutting down and flying away, I found
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the memory bug, mach2 now uses 40% less ram than before and the config menus are instant. Things are much faster without that particular bug.... YEeeeeHaaaaaa, Gone to burn away a couple quarts of Jose Quervo's finest.... Sayonara all, Ariba Honadlay...Jeezus, I gotta get to bed, gotta fly in 5 hours.... Later... Art www.artofcnc.ca ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Blackmore" <steve@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 7:23 PM Subject: Re: [mach1mach2cnc] Re: Version 5.0 On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 23:20:05 -0000, you wrote:Setup worksheets.CAM function!(sorry, couldn't resist)Neither could I.. |
Re: How close can the wires be ? - Advice needed.
Robin Szemeti
On Saturday 06 March 2004 23:02, ja_erickson wrote:
Thanks for the repiles,OK Only one end of the drain is connected and thats the end nearest thethats right ... the real trick is to make sure that the supply to the encoders or the supply to the opto couplers on the geckos comes down the same cable, inside the same shield. For example, if you have geckos, you should run +5V down the cable and then step and direction back to the parallel port. You need to do this for each gecko, do not use the same 5V line for both drives. Also .. use twisted pair wiring (say 3 pairs) 1 wire of the 1st pair for step, the other for ground, in the other pair, 1 wire for direction, the other wire for ground. etc, by grounding 1 wire of each pair you reduce the crosstalk by LOTS. the encoder wires also have a drain that i was planning on runningsounds fine to me, when Ed refered to capacitive coupling, would that occurCapacitive coupling occurs between any wiring. the capacitance couples the AC signal in one wire into another. So .. there is always capacative coupling, but its only a problem in the presence of an AC electric field. With shielded cables there is no external electric field to the cable, so no signal to couple. Shielding works both ways, it stops elecrtic field being radiated, it also stops them being picked up. thanks again-- RapidCut CNC Technology CNC Plasma Cutter |
Re: G41 (was: First drawing software)
Jeremy Taylor
OK - so how do I determine which side of my drawn lines gets the
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compensation? If I'm doing a cut out, I need the compensation to fall on the inside of the cut, IF I'm forming a piece, I'd need the compensation on the outside, however I cant seem to figure out how to tell Mach2 which I want to do, doing as you described in the previous reply. Art suggested a while ago, that it MUST be done in the CAD program. and hence my hand redrawn designs whit the lines falling on center of the cut. And my lines are set back 1.5mm so that the end result is what I needed. JT ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Szemeti" <list@...> To: <mach1mach2cnc@...> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 5:40 AM Subject: Re: [mach1mach2cnc] (First drawing software (was cnc plasma) On Saturday 06 March 2004 10:13, Jeremy Taylor wrote:quickWhich versions of your software, have the capacity to figuring tooling totools, and I have to "hand" offset my drawings by 3mm (diameter of bit) effectivekeep them true.no you don;t :) option. For 3 axis stuff it simple to use compared to some of the moreis tojust notstart out with: Corel Draw, Quickdraw, or something else? I have ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
Re: How close can the wires be ? - Advice needed.
Thanks for the repiles,
I dont have any problems yet, because the system is just being wired. I currently have wired the step and dir. lines and their drains are terminated inside of a metal box that is shared with a breakout board. Only one end of the drain is connected and thats the end nearest the breakout board. I believe this is correct , please let me know if i'm wrong. the encoder wires also have a drain that i was planning on running inside of the breakout board metal box along with the step and dir. wires, would this be the correct way to wire those? when Ed refered to capacitive coupling, would that occur between AC and DC wiring or DC and DC wiring? thanks again jeff --- In mach1mach2cnc@..., Robin Szemeti <list@r...> wrote: On Saturday 06 March 2004 22:30, Ed Gilbert wrote:asHi Jeff, cross eachphysically possible. If the wires do come in close proximity or as thisother try to do it at 90 degree angles, do not run them parallel fundamentallyincreases capacitive coupling.Although you are correct about the coupling, I beleive you are wrong about the approach. If you have to keep your encoder wiringphyiscally separate from the motor drive wiring that is telling you that youhave got something badly wrong with your shielding. The *correct* solutionis to get the shielding right so it doesn't matter where you put the wires.Any other solution is just a sticking plaster waiting for a stray pulse tocome along and upset things. |
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