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Taper


 

Good evening everyone,
Anyone else get a kick out of the Complimentary Small Plastic Ruler
Metrology?
So I'm just up from checking the taper on the B-4. I'm smaller at
the tailstock end by .006. Guess I know what I'll be doing this
weekend. Just for fun I checked with the calipers and the micrometer
and the calipers were off by a thousandth on the actual dimension but
the difference was the same.
Dave


 

Hello Dave,
What is the diameter of your test bar?

R.T. :D

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Good evening everyone,
Anyone else get a kick out of the Complimentary Small Plastic Ruler
Metrology?
So I'm just up from checking the taper on the B-4. I'm smaller at
the tailstock end by .006. Guess I know what I'll be doing this
weekend. Just for fun I checked with the calipers and the micrometer
and the calipers were off by a thousandth on the actual dimension but
the difference was the same.
Dave


 

--- In daltonlathes@..., "R.T." <redlupmi2@...> wrote:

Hello Dave,
What is the diameter of your test bar?

R.T. :D
At the moment, the test bar diameter is .946. I'm using a piece of
12L14 steel since I only have a 5/8 piece of aluminum that's long
enough. Last time I did this I started out with a 1" piece of aluminum
and it was just under 1/2" by the time I was done!
There is about 7" extending out the chuck, and I get some vibration
cutting down the tailstock end of the test bar, so I'm wondering if
maybe, due to the length, and there only being about two inches on the
other side of the chuck jaws since the spindle ID is only 3/4, if the
test bar is in there a little crooked. I think I should put some
smaller diameter stock in there just so I have plenty through the
spindle so I know it's in there straight, to see if I still come up
with the same .006 taper before I go any furthur.
Dave


 

Hello Dave,
I would bet the bar is flexing causing the taper. Larger diameter is
preferred, such as 2", can even be pipe or tubing.

The material behind the chuck shouldn't matter as long as it is well
secured. TIGHT in the chuck. Don't want the part rocking there either.

Let's see if Dennis agrees. :o)

R.T. :D
The Notorious Alabama Dalton Gangster

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

--- In daltonlathes@..., "R.T." <redlupmi2@> wrote:

Hello Dave,
What is the diameter of your test bar?

R.T. :D
At the moment, the test bar diameter is .946. I'm using a piece of
12L14 steel since I only have a 5/8 piece of aluminum that's long
enough. Last time I did this I started out with a 1" piece of aluminum
and it was just under 1/2" by the time I was done!
There is about 7" extending out the chuck, and I get some vibration
cutting down the tailstock end of the test bar, so I'm wondering if
maybe, due to the length, and there only being about two inches on the
other side of the chuck jaws since the spindle ID is only 3/4, if the
test bar is in there a little crooked. I think I should put some
smaller diameter stock in there just so I have plenty through the
spindle so I know it's in there straight, to see if I still come up
with the same .006 taper before I go any furthur.
Dave


 

Good evening gentlemen,
Well, it turns that at least some of the taper is due to the chuck
jaws. I can fit a .002 feeler gage in between the jaws and the work.
Sooo, anybody know if there are jaws still available for a Cushman, or
is it time for a new chuck?
Dave


 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

As a non machinist lurking in the background here, I wonder if the taper would be the same if you cut from right to left and left to right. I have the same problem with my Senica Falls 103 year old lathe which is very worn and had been abused.
?
?
Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Taper

Good evening gentlemen,
Well, it turns that at least some of the taper is due to the chuck
jaws. I can fit a .002 feeler gage in between the jaws and the work.
Sooo, anybody know if there are jaws still available for a Cushman, or
is it time for a new chuck?
Dave


 

Hi Ed,

No, it wouldn't matter which direction you were cutting. The taper
is a result of a changing distance between the tool point and the
spindle axis.


Dave, your chuck may not be a factor in your taper. If the test bar
is tight and not moving in the jaws, a little clearance at the ends
of the jaws wont matter. As others have mentioned, the test bar
should fairly large in OD. I'm using a piece of 1 3/4" 6061. I
think the journals are down to about 1.680 now with a slightly
smaller relief in between.

Yes, I can see a new chuck in your future.... :-) Your chuck is
probably worn to a point where new jaws wouldn't help. Even if you
got new jaws, it's my understanding that they would have to be ground
to to match your chuck. I wonder if Dennis has a trick to "load" the
jaws under tension so you could use a boring bar to true up your
existing jaws.

Jim




--- In daltonlathes@..., "Ed stoller" <edstoller@...>
wrote:

As a non machinist lurking in the background here, I wonder if the
taper would be the same if you cut from right to left and left to
right. I have the same problem with my Senica Falls 103 year old
lathe which is very worn and had been abused.


Ed Stoller
New Fairfield, CT


----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: daltonlathes@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Taper


Good evening gentlemen,
Well, it turns that at least some of the taper is due to the
chuck
jaws. I can fit a .002 feeler gage in between the jaws and the
work.
Sooo, anybody know if there are jaws still available for a
Cushman, or
is it time for a new chuck?
Dave