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John . . .

On Fri, 20 Aug 2021 03:10:47 -0700, "John Button G8JMB via "
<hornpipe112=[email protected]> wrote:

>I'd open it? if I could - case looks welded shut or has hidden clips.? Bottom of charger says 'input 10VDC' but no AC adaptor came with the radio.? I charged it using a bench psu, but that's no good on the boat...

Here you go.



Just find the right barrel connector and solder it to the leads of
this.

$6.65 + free shipping.

Radio Shack 10 Volt DC 850 MA AC Adapter Cat. No. 273-1614 input
120vac #01

Good for 850 MA, which is probably enough, but there are others good
to 2A for less than $10:



10V 2A AC-DC Adapter For Philips golite HF3332 HF3331 Charger Power
Supply PSU

$9.05 + free shipping

Myself, if I wasn't sure about the current draw of the charging base,
I'd buy the 2A power supply for just a few dollars more. And consider
if it's not taxed to the limit supplying current to the charging base,
it will probably last a lot longer.

It's not worth making your own supply when they're this cheap, unless
you want to make a RFI-shielded power supply. Since you can control
when you're charging the radio's battery, a little RFI might not be an
issue. Just don't charge the battery while you're on HF.

The hardest part here will be to find a barrel connector that fits.
But if you have an unused old power adapter with the right connector,
cut off the wire and solder the wires to the one you just bought,
observing polarity, of course. Usually a small white stripe indicates
positive, but I would test it before you do the soldering to make it
final. If in doubt, the center of the barrel connector is almost
always positive. NOT always, just ALMOST always. Your charging base
should indicate the socket polarity. You probably know this, but we
have a lot of inexperienced new hams who memorized their way to the
amateur radio license exam (instead of learning the actual theory) and
I don't want to assume anything.

Donald KX8K





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