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Hi all.
For my next lathe project I'm thinking about adding an X axis DRO.? It's really the one axis there's no built in measurement for and I think I'd really like it for boring to a specific depth and tasks like that.? I'm currently looking at the Shars stainless 24" units as I have a x14.
If anyone has tried these, how do they deal with all the electrical "noise" from the lathe?? I have three 6" Mitutoyo digital calipers and two sets absolutely freak out within three or four feet of the lathe if it is running.? The other set is okay and my 4" Vinca are good.? I'm concerned the Shars DRO won't deal with the noise either so any experience with the Shars or any brand, good or bad would be appreciated.? Thanks!
Ryan
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Hi Ryan, I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do. 
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I did smoothing?similar years ago, but I only had a 1-inch travel dial indicator.. What I have found to be really useful in conjunction with the dial indicator is an adjustable stop between the carriage and the head stock. By the way, I get the best finish by hand-feeding toward the head stock and power feed toward the tail stock. Regards, John Mattis
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
Attachments:
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If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Aargh!??I meant Z axis, parallel to the bed.??That's what I get for getting involved in a project too late at night, LOL.?
Chris, that's a nice setup you've got there. That looks great for doing extremely precision work. Definitely something to keep in mind but for what I'm doing it would require a lot of install and removal.?
I looked at the iGaging absolute stainless but they're a bit more than I want to spend and I'm not sure there's any advantage to the "absolute" feature on lathe Z axis???They do have an input for a power transformer so that would eliminate batteries.? ?Is there something there I'm not thinking of in regards to the absolute feature?
That's what led me to the Shars ones. A bit more affordable and stainless but I'm not seeing much around the web about them. I'm fairly set on stainless scales as they seem to be less problematic than aluminum even if they are almost 2x the cost.
On Mar 23, 2022, 3:02 PM -0400, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
![]()
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 01:50 AM, Ryan H wrote:
For my next lathe project I'm thinking about adding an X axis DRO.? It's really the one axis there's no built in measurement for and I think I'd really like it for boring to a specific depth and tasks like that.? I'm currently looking at the Shars stainless 24" units as I have a x14.
?
If anyone has tried these, how do they deal with all the electrical "noise" from the lathe?? I have three 6" Mitutoyo digital calipers and two sets absolutely freak out within three or four feet of the lathe if it is running.? The other set is okay and my 4" Vinca are good.? I'm concerned the Shars DRO won't deal with the noise either so any experience with the Shars or any brand, good or bad would be appreciated.? Thanks!
?
I put an Igaging acuremote on the Z axis of my 7x12.? Based on my past experience with electrical-noise problems I went with the stainless steel scale, but to completely eliminate the noise problem I still had to open up the sensor box (the one that slides on the scale) and solder a 1 microfarad capacitor between Vcc and Gnd.? I think that's because the batteries are installed in the display box so electrical noise gets into the power supply & ground lines on the connector cable. It is _very_ nice when it comes to doing things like boring pockets to a specific depth, or (if you have a toolpost-mounted drill chuck) you also can drill holes to a specific depth.? I originally added the DRO for an odd kind of ball-turner I bought from LMS.? The ball turner installs in place of the compound, which made it difficult to advance the ball turner into the work with any kind of accuracy.? As part of making it work in a reasonable fashion, I also attached a handwheel to the leadscrew.? I engage the half nuts and use the handwheel to advance the ball turner into the work.? In addition, the combination of DRO and handwheel on the lead screw is very useful because I usually have my plinth installed instead of the compound -- the plinth is much more rigid, and the DRO provides the measurements I need on the Z axis. If I'm threading or cutting under power I remove the handwheel handle so it doesn't smack something (like a hand).? You can get fancy with a foldable handle or a castle nut type of drive if you want, but I just went with the KISS principle. Mark
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Aargh!??I meant Z axis, parallel to the bed.??That's what I get for getting involved in a project too late at night, LOL.?
Chris, that's a nice setup you've got there. That looks great for doing extremely precision work. Definitely something to keep in mind but for what I'm doing it would require a lot of install and removal.?
That is why I suggesting using magnets.? ?Buy a $7 digital caliper at .? You can buy magnets but I salvage then from dead computer hard drives and have a good stock of them.? ?BTW the dead hard drives have really nice diecast aluminum chassis that can be cut up and milled to make brackets and whatever.?
It helps to have a 3D printer so you can make spacers and mount brakets.? The cheap PLA plastic really is rigid enough for a use like this.? ? ?
I don't think my DO is "absolute" or that I'd want it to be.? Calipers are absolute, meaning that the meauser relative to dead-zero.? Mine measure from wherever you last pushed the "zero" button.? I think that is what yu want.? You bring the tool incontact with the part, press zero then crank the handle until the DRO says "12.00 mm" or whatever?you need.? ? In machining distance is always relative to some reference face.? ?I would never care to know the distance from the spindle.
For a lathe, I think DRO gives you 99% of what you need.? A milling machine?becomes 1000 times more useful?with CNC but with a lathe, a simple readout is enough.??
?
I looked at the iGaging absolute stainless but they're a bit more than I want to spend and I'm not sure there's any advantage to the "absolute" feature on lathe Z axis???They do have an input for a power transformer so that would eliminate batteries.? ?Is there something there I'm not thinking of in regards to the absolute feature?
That's what led me to the Shars ones. A bit more affordable and stainless but I'm not seeing much around the web about them. I'm fairly set on stainless scales as they seem to be less problematic than aluminum even if they are almost 2x the cost.
On Mar 23, 2022, 3:02 PM -0400, Chris Albertson < albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
Thanks Chris. I couldn't come up with why I'd care if the DRO had an absolute feature or not.?
The DRO I have on my tailstock is a 12 dollar caliper I cut up and that really makes drilling, counter boring, etc to a specific depth a breeze. That's what really got me to thinking about the Z axis DRO. For that though I do think I want it to cover the full length of travel but a short one with magnetic mounts on the front from a caliper could work for a while.?
I don't have a mill or 3d printer so making mounting brackets is a vice and file job here LOL.?
Ryan
On Mar 23, 2022, 7:52 PM -0400, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
Aargh!??I meant Z axis, parallel to the bed.??That's what I get for getting involved in a project too late at night, LOL.?
Chris, that's a nice setup you've got there. That looks great for doing extremely precision work. Definitely something to keep in mind but for what I'm doing it would require a lot of install and removal.?
That is why I suggesting using magnets.? ?Buy a $7 digital caliper at .? You can buy magnets but I salvage then from dead computer hard drives and have a good stock of them.? ?BTW the dead hard drives have really nice diecast aluminum chassis that can be cut up and milled to make brackets and whatever.?
It helps to have a 3D printer so you can make spacers and mount brakets.? The cheap PLA plastic really is rigid enough for a use like this.? ? ?
I don't think my DO is "absolute" or that I'd want it to be.? Calipers are absolute, meaning that the meauser relative to dead-zero.? Mine measure from wherever you last pushed the "zero" button.? I think that is what yu want.? You bring the tool incontact with the part, press zero then crank the handle until the DRO says "12.00 mm" or whatever?you need.? ? In machining distance is always relative to some reference face.? ?I would never care to know the distance from the spindle.
For a lathe, I think DRO gives you 99% of what you need.? A milling machine?becomes 1000 times more useful?with CNC but with a lathe, a simple readout is enough.??
?
I looked at the iGaging absolute stainless but they're a bit more than I want to spend and I'm not sure there's any advantage to the "absolute" feature on lathe Z axis???They do have an input for a power transformer so that would eliminate batteries.? ?Is there something there I'm not thinking of in regards to the absolute feature?
That's what led me to the Shars ones. A bit more affordable and stainless but I'm not seeing much around the web about them. I'm fairly set on stainless scales as they seem to be less problematic than aluminum even if they are almost 2x the cost.
On Mar 23, 2022, 3:02 PM -0400, Chris Albertson < albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
![]()
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Chris, let me express my admiration for your solution to your lathe travel measurement question. Cheap, simple, reliable; what¡¯s not to love! I am going to put that at the head of my ¡°Projects To Do list¡±! ? On another note I frequently read questions from the newbies asking for sources of information on basic lathe operations. I do not think that many are exposed to this sort of education in high school. That is a shame for as we all know this is a very entertaining hobby! But do not despair for there is an outstanding series of books covering all aspects of machine tools. I refer to the books written by Fred H. Colvin and various coauthors through the first half of the 20th century. I have found them both s original editions and as Lindsay reprints at very reasonable prices. I recommend ¡°Running an Engine Lathe¡± as a good starting point. ? These books have been very useful to me in my hobby and sometime business!??? Bill in Boulder CO ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 08:27 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
I have a 7x12 so a 12" scale worked without needing any cutting.? I used a 50V nonpolarized capacitor (I have a ziplock-sized bag of them).? It's overkill as far as the working voltage goes and a bit on the large size as a result -- but the case on my sensor was big enough to accommodate it.? It's green so it matches the PCB :) If you use an electrolytic just make sure it's connected up correctly so the "+" terminal is soldered to +3.3 (Vcc or Vdd). Here's a photo of the capacitor soldered down to the board.? I used the USB connector's case for the ground.? Hopefully you won't need it.? But if it turns out you do and you don't have any capacitors in that range, PM me with your address and I will mail you one.? 
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Thanks Mark. I appreciate the offer.??I think I have some small caps here back when I raced RC truck. If not and I need one I'll get in touch.??I ordered the Shars stainless one today. Should be here next week and I'll get to work getting it mounted and see how it goes.?
Do you find yours goes through batteries pretty quick or do they last a while?
Thanks.?
Ryan
On Mar 24, 2022, 11:46 AM -0400, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...>, wrote:
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 08:27 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
I have a 7x12 so a 12" scale worked without needing any cutting.? I used a 50V nonpolarized capacitor (I have a ziplock-sized bag of them).? It's overkill as far as the working voltage goes and a bit on the large size as a result -- but the case on my sensor was big enough to accommodate it.? It's green so it matches the PCB :)
If you use an electrolytic just make sure it's connected up correctly so the "+" terminal is soldered to +3.3 (Vcc or Vdd).
Here's a photo of the capacitor soldered down to the board.? I used the USB connector's case for the ground.? Hopefully you won't need it.? But if it turns out you do and you don't have any capacitors in that range, PM me with your address and I will mail you one.?
<>
Attachments:
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John Mattis