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Threading for the first time
Hi, All,
I'm going to try single-point threading for the first time. I've read up on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? I guess it really doesn't matter; if I screw it up (pun intended), I'll just try it again. Thanks, Charlie |
开云体育The only thing to watch out for is the speed that the carriage moves towards the chuck. Hand turn the chuck as the whole process happens quickly for each pass. Take light cuts and have the cross slide set at 29.5Degrees.Good luck, Cheers, Andrew in Melbourne On 05/12/12 23:57, CLevinski wrote:
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MERTON B BAKER
I still have the piece I made for my very first threading project in machine
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tool lab back in 1948. A 3/4 x 8 Acme jack screw. Fun. Threading is very exciting at 8 tpi. Much less so at 24. Turning the spindle with a hand crank makes it much less so. Now about the cover screws. I just pressed brass butterflies on the heads the original Allen screws for my 7x lathe. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of CLevinski Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:58 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Threading for the first time Hi, All, I'm going to try single-point threading for the first time. I've read up on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? I guess it really doesn't matter; if I screw it up (pun intended), I'll just try it again. Thanks, Charlie ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
Hi Charlie,
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M5 x 0.8 converts to 0.197" x 31.5 tpi. A 10-32 UNF screw is 0.190" x 32 tpi so would probably do the job, and you might have a 10-32 die available. However, single-pointing a thread will be a useful exercise, and M5 x 0.8 (that's a thread from the metric coarse series) is certainly not too fine for you to have a go. Three tips, linked to the fact that you will be working up to a shoulder: First, make a run-out groove up against the shoulder, where the thread will end. Secondly, use a spindle handcrank. Under power, the carriage will move so rapidly that you will find it hard to stop in the right place, particularly as you would have to stop the motor rather than disengaging the half nuts (see below). Thirdly, looking at the tool from above, its 60 degree point should be offset to the chuck side so you can work up close to the shoulder. And a fourth tip: assuming you have an inch leadscrew, yiour threading dial won't work when cutting a metric thread, unless you use an approximation which is an exact number of tpi, like the 32 tpi mentioned above. So the half nuts must be left engaged throughout, and the carriage returned to the start point (after withdrawing the tool a little) by cranking the spindle the other way. That's another good reason for the hand crank; it's a lot less bother that stopping the motor, changing its direction with the F/R switch and restarting it at the beginning and end of each pass. Good luck! Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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Jim Dunmyer
开云体育Charlie,
The others have given you great advice on threading, so jump in and give it
a try. Be sure to have a suitable nut on hand to check the thread when you get
“close”. In addition to the tips from the others, I’ll offer these two: file or
turn a bevel on the LH end of the part before beginning, and run a file over the
top of the threads for just a bit when you’re done. Be certain that the part is
clean when you are checking it with the nut, so a burr or small particle doesn’t
throw you off.
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The hand crank is VERY useful on these little lathes, as they turn pretty
fast for threading. At least for my old, slow reflexes. I do nearly all my
threading on my LeBlond, which runs as slow as 20 RPM. “Third” speed is only 40
RPM on that machine, and that’s about as fast as I’ve ever run it while
threading.
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My original cover screws have the head recessed in deep counterbores in the
cover, so it wasn’t easy to do what Mert did with his. Instead, I cut off an
Allen wrench and pressed the piece into a turned & knurled brass knob. This
makes it quite easy to spin those bolts out or in.
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Another way to get around this sort of problem is to cut the head off a
suitable screw and silver solder it into an extension that you’ve made.
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? From: CLevinski
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:57 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Threading for the first
time ?
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Hi, All, |
OK, looks like I need to make a hand-crank for the mini-lathe...
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Thanks to all for their suggestions and comments! Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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My first threads were 1/4 -20 ,then I made 1/2-40. Both turned out well. I could test the 1/4-20 with a standard nut but the 1/2-40 wasn't tested.I could have tried making a nut to fit, I figured I'll leave well enough alone for now.I read a lot, asked questions and then gave it a try.I was happy that the threads looked right . I'm sure you can do it with a bit of practice.As far as tips go, I'm almost as much a rank beginner cutting threads as you are. mike
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Jim Dunmyer
开云体育I made 2, for 2 different 7X lathes, it was very easy. Used a length of
1/2” water pipe for the main part, turned down the one end for a couple of
inches or so to be maybe .002” smaller than the headstock bore. Split it with a
hacksaw; a long 1/4” bolt draws a tapered plug into the end to expand and lock
the thing into place. The crank is made from 1/4” flat stock, the handle is a
piece of 3/4” aluminum rod, and a long shoulder bolt serves as the crankpin.
There’s plans someplace or another that I followed. I’m lucky enough to have all
of the stuff ‘in stock’ except for the shoulder bolt, but one could use a
regular bolt and a sleeve instead.
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? From: CLevinski
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 10:06 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first
time ?
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OK, looks like I need to make a hand-crank for the
mini-lathe... |
It might be an idea to make it as a wheel rather than a crank, Charlie.
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I have a crank, and unplug the lathe before using it, as a reminder to remove the crank before starting the motor later on. If I forget, the crank tries to whack me as the motor starts, at the same time as the lathe tries to turn upside down due to the imbalance. A wheel wouldn't hit me, and would be better balanced. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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You can find 3 different sets of Hand Crank Plans here:
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HTH --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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Gadgetbuilder has a nice wheel for turning the lathe be hand, see www.gadgetbuilder.com.
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Mike --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" <andyf.1108@...> wrote:
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Jerry Durand
On 12/06/2012 07:20 AM, andyf1108 wrote:
It might be an idea to make it as a wheel rather than a crank, Charlie.I made mine a wheel with removable crank, never considered only making one or the other. For anyone who hasn't seen it: Made almost entirely on the lathe. Saw cuts with a 4x6 bandsaw and the grub screw flat on a mill. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
Jim Dunmyer
开云体育Ralph,
I used your Version 2, 1A style, more or less. Thank you much for sharing
your plans, I’ve either built several or at least used some of the ideas. Great
job!!
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? From: ralph_pattersonus
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first
time ?
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You can find 3 different sets of Hand Crank Plans here: |
Thanks, guys... I like the idea of a wheel, but I would think it really needs a handle to hold onto. One of the linked designs was set up with both. I'll pick one and go with it. Now if I could just find some 1 1/8 inch round stock without having to pay more for shipping than the metal is worth! I have one inch in stock, but not 1 1/8 inch...
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Well, maybe I'll put together another metal order... Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote:
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MERTON B BAKER
A wheel is fine for things like collet closers, or to add inertia to the
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spindle, or if you like to stop & start the spindle by hand, as is necessary on a sewing machine, but for threading, you need torque and control, and the hand crank rules. The radius wants to be 6" at least, and 8" is better. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of CLevinski Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 10:02 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first time Thanks, guys... I like the idea of a wheel, but I would think it really needs a handle to hold onto. One of the linked designs was set up with both. I'll pick one and go with it. Now if I could just find some 1 1/8 inch round stock without having to pay more for shipping than the metal is worth! I have one inch in stock, but not 1 1/8 inch... Well, maybe I'll put together another metal order... Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> wrote: on the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and give it a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's big enough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I would really like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, I believe, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to hold the gear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it off. My question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a beginner? Are there any special tricks? just try it again.
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
I am quite lazy :-) This one works great if you are of a similar persuasion (unfortunately the site says not in stock right now).
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Paul (in Jamaica). ----- Original Message -----
From: "CLevinski" <clevinski@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 10:06 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading for the first time OK, looks like I need to make a hand-crank for the mini-lathe... |
Hi, Paul,
In my experience, the word "lazy" can often be replaced bythe word "efficient" with no change in meaning whatsoever! And "efficient" sounds much better! For example, which sounds better: "I'm lazy, so I set up a fixture so I wouldn't have to relocate each part I have to drill" or "I'm efficient, so I set up a fixture so I wouldn't have to relocate each part I have to drill"? That said, this is such a good little project for my limited skill level that I have to give making one a try. Thanks for the link! Charlie --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Beswick" <pab@...> wrote: persuasion (unfortunately the site says not in stock right now).; 7&category= read up giveon the procedure, and I figure the best way is to just jump in and bigit a try. I'll initially make a 3/8-24 thread, only because it's wouldenough for me to really see the progress as it develops. But what I Ireally like to make for use after that is a 5 mm thread. These are, hold thebelieve, a 0.8 mm pitch. My goal is to make some thumbscrews to off. Mygear cover on my lathe without having to use a hex key to get it beginner?question is whether this is too fine a thread for me to do as a I'llAre there any special tricks? just try it again. |
开云体育Charlie wrote......In my experience, the word "lazy" can often be replaced
bythe word "efficient" with no change in meaning
whatsoever!.......
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I prefer the word 'effective'. After all you can be
very efficient in drilling a 13mm diameter hole in every piece, but if it was
meant to be 12mm diameter, not very effective was it !!!
Cheers.
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Ellis |