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A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I
decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot
a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5841344959009276481
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L
|
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ?
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Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John
From: Don Leitch
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52
p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away. ? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I
decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its
operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
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Show quoted text
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
?
It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ? ? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I
decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its
operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch wrote:
From: Don Leitch
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
?
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <> wrote:
?
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
?
From: [] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
?
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons.
I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from?
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
Here's a link to a pic of the one I cut for my Taig lathe:
that's what's under the reader and what's under the scale decal that has the inch/mm numbers.
I cut mine and had no issue. I will say that there are usually small copper or brass shims; some cheaper units like the 4" at Michael's Art's and Supplies lack them; I had to cut some brass shim stock to make them work.
The shims go above and below the traces on the reader head where the mounting holes attach it to the back.
There's a microcontroller of some sort counting those pulses... read my Shars' Reader head mod on some of the caveats of powering scales rant on my lathe mod page:
From wiki :
"Some digital calipers contain a capacitive linear encoder <>. A pattern of bars is etched directly on the printed circuit board <> in the slider. Under the scale of the caliper another printed circuit board also contains an etched pattern of lines. The combination of these printed circuit boards forms two variable capacitors <>. The two capacitances are out of phase. As the slider moves the capacitance changes in a linear fashion and in a repeating pattern. The circuitry built into the slider counts the bars as the slider moves and does a linear interpolation based on the magnitudes of the capacitors to find the precise position of the slider. Other digital calipers contain an inductive linear encoder, which allows robust performance in the presence of contamination such as coolants [1] <>. Magnetic linear encoders are used in yet other digital calipers.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch <don@...> wrote:
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
Don
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear adapter from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i returned to find it had melted the some of the push buttons.
I was devastated,immediately rang Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L
|
No,this was a purpose built DRO unit to fit the Weiss mill, You will note from the photos that it is attached to the bracket by 2 brass screws. these holes were originally to attach the DRO to the mill quill. maximum travel I think is 3" which is more than than lathe quill will travel before running out of thread. If you use a?converted?6" caliper,and cut it down,you may be in trouble. I recently fitted a Y axis DRO to my mill and needed to cut it down in length,seemed to work OK? with a junior hacksaw. Always remove all the burrs as good engineering practice,before you need to slide the reader off the scale for any reason, I chose not
to?separate?the reader from the scale.Maybe the rough edges could cause a scarring effect when sliding the reader off. Just guessing,I am sure we have better experts in the group to chip in,Andy Franks knows my limited electronics knowledge. But I do now know what a LMB is attached to my?satellite?dish,it fell off during a storm,my wife said John we have no picture. Simple fix,I got the local TV repair man out,paid him,job done. I did keep the broken bracket and I will make a standby one in?aluminium,he replaced the broken bracket/clamp made in plastic with another made in plastic. Not a
good idea in Spain with summer temps up to plus 42 C,winter temps down to 0 C.Expecting again severe winds tonight. lets see if the plastic bracket stands the brunt. Best regards John L Spain.
From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch wrote:
From: Don Leitch
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
?
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <> wrote:
?
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
?
From: [] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
?
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons.
I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from?
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
|
maschwiebert