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So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
Hi Jeremy.
Always used the apron handwheel, for the past 50+ years......
Until my pal wanted a leadscrew feed wheel. I made one. He copied it..... ,7643.0.html
We're both happy now!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
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Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
I use 3 of these lathes in my shop. Every one has the LS geared to the
slowest feed rate, and I use the handwheel for faster ones where the finish
is not so important. It sounds to me that your problem stems from the way
the toolbit is ground, combined , perhaps with some slop in the handwheel.
Now, on my 12x lathe, I use this method as well, but as there are
frequently much longer cuts to make, and given that there is a 40 feed
choice Gearbox on the LS, I use that. To advise you in a useful fashion
I'll need more info.
Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of
cptwinderatgmaildotcom
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2013 2:18 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big
enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would
use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the
cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod.
And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't
turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron
to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading
somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x
lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the
time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump
forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter
towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other,
etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
It sounds like you have some adjustment problems with the carriage.
I always use the hand wheel to advance the carriage toward the chuck. My compound is set at 29.5 degrees.
John
|
I too made a handwheel, modified the lead screw to be split so i don't have to fight/remove change gears all the time.
pic of the collar here:
Theres' a PDF of the way I cut the leadscrew on the lathe mod page
Just loosen or tighten the collar setscrews. With the lead screw handwheel I can smoothly advance or retract the carriage in roughly 1-2mil increments as per my DRO... just had to adjust the half nuts closing limit for a little less slop.
Also make sure the rack/pinion is setup - I had to shim the apron to get the pinion gear to mesh nicely with the rack. My carriage move quite smoothly after lapping the ways and adding the counter set-screws on the saddle gibs as per the tools and mods site:
pic from there -
Tapered gibs is my next project, thos after a year my carriage is nice and tight, smooth running (I use Mobil Vactra #2 for lube)
Someone just posted about that :
Mr Kruger's site:
davidjones686@... wrote:
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Show quoted text
Hi Jeremy.
Always used the apron handwheel, for the past 50+ years......
Until my pal wanted a leadscrew feed wheel. I made one. He copied it..... ,7643.0.html
We're both happy now!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
I have found that manual feed toward the headstock and power feed away gives a nice finish. I am with Mert on using the finest feed available.? John
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On Feb 1, 2013, at 11:42 AM, "MERTON B BAKER" < mertbaker@...> wrote:
?
I use 3 of these lathes in my shop. Every one has the LS geared to the
slowest feed rate, and I use the handwheel for faster ones where the finish
is not so important. It sounds to me that your problem stems from the way
the toolbit is ground, combined , perhaps with some slop in the handwheel.
Now, on my 12x lathe, I use this method as well, but as there are
frequently much longer cuts to make, and given that there is a 40 feed
choice Gearbox on the LS, I use that. To advise you in a useful fashion
I'll need more info.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of
cptwinderatgmaildotcom
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2013 2:18 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big
enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would
use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the
cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod.
And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't
turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron
to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading
somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x
lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the
time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump
forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter
towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other,
etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
For some reason, your link goes to the Madmodder home page, David.
This one might work better ,7643.0.html
or then again it looks like yours, so it might not. It did work when I pasted it into a text document off this forum.
Andy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "davidjones686@..." wrote:
Hi Jeremy.
Always used the apron handwheel, for the past 50+ years......
Until my pal wanted a leadscrew feed wheel. I made one. He copied it..... ,7643.0.html
We're both happy now!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
On Fri, 1 Feb 2013, cptwinderatgmaildotcom wrote: So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy There are a number of mods out there for a lead screw crank. I did a really simple one. Just lock the carriage with the half nuts and turn the crank. Probably the most used mod I've done (besides the T Slot in place of the compound slide). Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium
|
They both work the same for me, Andy!
With 61 extra hits, since I posted..... It's working ok for most people!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:
For some reason, your link goes to the Madmodder home page, David.
This one might work better ,7643.0.html
or then again it looks like yours, so it might not. It did work when I pasted it into a text document off this forum.
Andy
|
Must be something at my end, David.
?
I tried the one in my post when it appeared on the board, and it worked OK. Now,?both links (yours and mine) take me to the home/index page.?Weird! But?if it's working for everyone else, I'll deprive the the gremlins of the satisfaction of watching me rack my brains by?going to bed and simply forgetting about it.
?
Andy?
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: stilldrillin@... Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 22:45:15 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel. ?
They both work the same for me, Andy!
With 61 extra hits, since I posted..... It's working ok for most people!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote: > > For some reason, your link goes to the Madmodder home page, David. > > This one might work better > or then again it looks like yours, so it might not. It did work when I pasted it into a text document off this forum. > > Andy >
|
Jeremy, unless the compound is at exactly 0 on the vernier scale you will get a taper.Very difficult to get 0 by eye.Instead don't use the compound except for tapers and when facing for depth of cut. Use the powerfeed when possible or the large handwheel that moves the carriage.The compound is not used for threading.Use a shop made saddle lock instead of the feed lever,for facing or parting.The half nut is to engage the the feed screw for threading ,not used as a lock. One other thing, get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a well known publication that is only $10.00 or so.The info is helpful to any home shop
machinist ,not just South Bend owners.This is a republished copy available by online bookstores.Lindsay Publications retired the company but someone will direct you to the new online store.
mike
From: cptwinderatgmaildotcom
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
?
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
Nearly everyone on earth uses the apron handwheel. Me too. If you have trouble with lurching you may want to look at the angles ground on your toolbit. They may be too agressive. This will pull the cutter into the work. You will lose control of the feed rate. Try angles with less angle; 5 degrees is about right. Use your eye to estimate these angles when grinding. With experience you will get a feeling for this. If what you have does not work; change something.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
A apron feed wheel is very useful. Problem is unless you?disconnect?the last gear at the change gear end you are fighting the mechanical advantage and turning all the gear train.It's very stiff to turn, I devised a pop on / pop off arrangement,and by simply turning a? knob outside the gear cover the last gear slides in and out of mesh.So easy to use and no severe loads on the feed screw. The screw arrangement was made from a domestic radiator valve. see link https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5789361520814934033
Regards John L Spain.
From: "davidjones686@..." <stilldrillin@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 8:38 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
?
Hi Jeremy.
Always used the apron handwheel, for the past 50+ years......
Until my pal wanted a leadscrew feed wheel. I made one. He copied it.....
We're both happy now!
David. Derbyshire. UK.
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
>
> So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
>
> Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
>
> So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeremy
>
|
Hi Michael,
When I started as a raw amateur several years ago I quickly encountered the same problems and that moving the saddle is the best way and to use the topslide only for small cuts. I now generally feed with the saddle handwheel and only use the auto-feed occasionally for threading or where no precision as to distance is required. A decent engagement between the saddle rack and the gear pinion is desirable to reduce play although mine was OK
the topslide protractor is very much an expression of hope, it is so inaccurate and you cannot just use an angle square to set the topslide square to the cross-slide as the dovetails are sometimes slightly out in relation to the edges of the parts.
I set mine using trial and error to get as little taper as possible on the range of topslide movement and haven't moved the angle since.
I quickly found the lack of a saddle lock a nuisance and? that although engaging the feed lever made a half passable alternative a home made lock is much superior and positive as the saddle cannot twist or rock when cutting.
I also made a small saddle stop from aluminium to clamp to the front V and it is then easy to roughly position the stop and run the carriage up to it using the hand wheel and fine tune the cut with the topslide
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: kwoodhands@... Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 16:57:12 -0800 Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
?
Jeremy, unless the compound is at exactly 0 on the vernier scale you will get a taper.Very difficult to get 0 by eye.Instead don't use the compound except for tapers and when facing for depth of cut. Use the powerfeed when possible or the large handwheel that moves the carriage.The compound is not used for threading.Use a shop made saddle lock instead of the feed lever,for facing or parting.The half nut is to engage the the feed screw for threading ,not used as a lock. One other thing, get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a well known publication that is only $10.00 or so.The info is helpful to any home shop
machinist ,not just South Bend owners.This is a republished copy available by online bookstores.Lindsay Publications retired the company but someone will direct you to the new online store.
mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: cptwinderatgmaildotcom
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
?
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
If I need to use the top slide, I set it by installing an accurate rod in the chuck and a DTI+mag-base on the top slide. I monitor the run-out between the DTI and rod while moving the top slide back & forth, adjust the angle for least movement. Of course, the DTI contacts the side of the rod, not the top. This approach assumes that your headstock is accurately aligned with the bed, and the rod is, too. It's always good to know where the variables are in your setup.
While doing this I also discovered a regular "blip" in the top slide position of about .002". It seemed to repeat for every revolution of the feed handle. Not sure what that's about yet...at present it's a motivation to avoid using the top slide whenever possible!
Mark
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote:
Hi Michael,
When I started as a raw amateur several years ago I quickly encountered the same problems and that moving the saddle is the best way and to use the topslide only for small cuts. I now generally feed with the saddle handwheel and only use the auto-feed occasionally for threading or where no precision as to distance is required. A decent engagement between the saddle rack and the gear pinion is desirable to reduce play although mine was OK
the topslide protractor is very much an expression of hope, it is so inaccurate and you cannot just use an angle square to set the topslide square to the cross-slide as the dovetails are sometimes slightly out in relation to the edges of the parts.
I set mine using trial and error to get as little taper as possible on the range of topslide movement and haven't moved the angle since.
I quickly found the lack of a saddle lock a nuisance and that although engaging the feed lever made a half passable alternative a home made lock is much superior and positive as the saddle cannot twist or rock when cutting.
I also made a small saddle stop from aluminium to clamp to the front V and it is then easy to roughly position the stop and run the carriage up to it using the hand wheel and fine tune the cut with the topslide
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: kwoodhands@...
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 16:57:12 -0800
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
Jeremy, unless the compound is at exactly 0 on the vernier scale you will get a taper.Very difficult to get 0 by eye.Instead don't use the compound except for tapers and when facing for depth of cut. Use the powerfeed when possible or the large handwheel that moves the carriage.The compound is not used for threading.Use a shop made saddle lock instead of the feed lever,for facing or parting.The half nut is to engage the the feed screw for threading ,not used as a lock.One other thing, get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a well known publication that is only $10.00 or so.The info is helpful to any home shop
machinist ,not just South Bend owners.This is a republished copy available by online bookstores.Lindsay Publications retired the company but someone will direct you to the new online store.
mike
From: cptwinderatgmaildotcom
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
So after having my lathe a couple of years now, I finally have a shop big enough to actually use it. What little I have used it in the past, I would use the half-nut to lock the saddle and use the compound slide to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck.
Last night I was attempting to turn down the diameter of an aluminum rod. And for the life of me I could not get the compound slid setup so it didn't turn a taper. Knowing that on "big iron" you use the hand wheel on the apron to move the cutter towards and away from the chuck and remembering reading somewhere that someone left their compound setup for threading on their 7x lathe, I figured I would attempt to use the apron hand wheel as well. By the time I gave the wheel enough pressure to start it moving it would jump forward, making cuts impossible.
So the question to all of the veterans, what method of moving the cutter towards and away from the chuck are you using, compound, apron wheel, other, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more practice.
Thanks again,
Jeremy
|
To get a nice finish using the carriage handwheel, use a round nose toolbit,
and turn the wheel slowly, using the rim, with both hands to keep it moving
smoothly.
Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jeremy Winder
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 6:17 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand
wheel.
I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced
using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then
the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the
wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more
practice.
Thanks again,
Jeremy
|
I ground a “skew” bit for finishing cuts where I want a mirror finish. It
won’t take but maybe .003” DOC, but it’s very smooth. And, of course your
technique is the only way.
?
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
<>
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Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 6:47 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron
hand wheel.
?
?
To get a nice finish using the carriage handwheel, use a round nose
toolbit,
and turn the wheel slowly, using the rim, with both hands to keep it
moving
smoothly.
Mert
|
I sometimes hold the wheel with both hands!
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jeremy Winder wrote:
I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced
using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then
the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the
wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more
practice.
Thanks again,
Jeremy
|
When ever possible use the power feed and make sure the cutter is ground sharp and the leading edge honed.Take a stone,diamond stick or whatever use use for honing and round the sharp point you ground for a better finish. I won't go into the various cutter configurations. You can find them on the web,LMS, Sherline Tools ,or just google lathe tools.You can get a mirror finish on most metals if the cutter is ground correctly,correct speed, etc. mike
From: Jeremy Winder
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 2, 2013 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.
?
I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more practice.
Thanks again,
Jeremy
|
John Mattis
gerry waclawiak