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My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)
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Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided
to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance |
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andrew franks
I think that screw is supposed to stop the tailstock sliding. Not a lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside.
A rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Inbox full of unwanted email? Get leading protection and 1GB storage with All New Yahoo! Mail. |
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G'day Rance.
If Andy is right regarding the purpose of your mystery screw then my advice differ from his! This screw is important unless you want your tail stock to crash to the floor and break the handwheel and bend the screw. It is too easy to run the saddle back or push the tailstock back to get more working space only to end in an oops! I haven't done it myself simply because the stop screw is in place. If your lathe doesn't have a way of preventing the tailstock inadvertently sliding off the bed then I recommend you use the spare screw for that purpose, it can be your first customisation. One good turn deserves another. Regards Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside. AI decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, andtailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I justafter it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on theunder side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at thevery end.the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, thewith that later.rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut.Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the checkI need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cansfor those?screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process,the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screwis at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below theTS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether itwas installed or not.underneath it.for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.storage with All New Yahoo! Mail.
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andrew franks
Good thinking, Ian. I think I'll fit some sort of spring-loaded catch in place of the screw, for ease of operation.
Andy steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote: G'day Rance. If Andy is right regarding the purpose of your mystery screw then my advice differ from his! This screw is important unless you want your tail stock to crash to the floor and break the handwheel and bend the screw. It is too easy to run the saddle back or push the tailstock back to get more working space only to end in an oops! I haven't done it myself simply because the stop screw is in place. If your lathe doesn't have a way of preventing the tailstock inadvertently sliding off the bed then I recommend you use the spare screw for that purpose, it can be your first customisation. One good turn deserves another. Regards Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside. AI decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, andtailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I justafter it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on theunder side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at thevery end.the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, thewith that later.rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut.Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the checkI need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cansfor those?screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process,the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screwis at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below theTS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether itwas installed or not.underneath it.for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.storage with All New Yahoo! Mail. --------------------------------- What kind of emailer are you? Find out today - get a free analysis of your email personality. Take the quiz at the Yahoo! Mail Championship. |
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Druid Noibn
Hi,
The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. |
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andrew franks
Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to act as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries.
Andy Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: Hi, The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. --------------------------------- New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Thanks for the info. I'll just make my own pan, just wanted to know
if it was missing. Their packing list leaves a lot to be desired. Same for the manuals. But that's just part of this cheap-lathe- game. :D I already got a couple of the cheap oil cans from HF. I can modify one for the ball valves. Thanks again guys. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries. Andyone up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it.
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Commercial sheet pans can be had in 18 x 26 inches, here is an example eBay # 160020141890
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-----Original Message-----
From: andyf1108@... To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 2:06 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up) Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to act as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries. Andy Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: Hi, The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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G'day Rance
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
"I'll just make my own pan,.." "...I can modify one for the ball valves." That's the spirit. However you may find a vehicle drip tray is cheaper than buying the sheet metal. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian |
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Thanks Ian. Great idea. I'd rather spend my time making more fun stuff
(like a ball turner, etc.). I particularly enjoy using 'things' for other than their intended purpose. I just measured what I need. Minimum of 30" long, and 15" (or bigger) in width is a good start. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote: cheaper than buying the sheet metal. |
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Druid Noibn
Hi Rance,
Just an FYI..in case you didn't pick up on it earlier... The manual is not 100% accurate <smile>. The drawings and sizes of the gear hardware, (axels, clip rings, etc...) might not match. Make notes. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Thanks for the info. I'll just make my own pan, just wanted to know if it was missing. Their packing list leaves a lot to be desired. Same for the manuals. But that's just part of this cheap-lathe- game. :D I already got a couple of the cheap oil cans from HF. I can modify one for the ball valves. Thanks again guys. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries. Andyone up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it.
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