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Mini lathe gear noise


 

I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted?



On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:

While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!??

??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO


 

There have been a lot of reports about the detents (divots) for the Fwd/0-Rev lever being in the wrong spot. Is the lever moving enough to fully engage the gears for reversing the leadscrew? On my lathe the spring in that gearshift handle is so strong that it's easy to miss the small hole that the point sits in.


 

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Aside from what you already mentioned, check the engagement of the gear’s teeth for backlash. You can use a plain piece of copier paper between the teeth of two gears.

?

Many times there is more than one set of gears that will give you the same pitch. You could try using some other gear selections.

?

Michael - California, USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chad Rebuck
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2022 10:26 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise

?

I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted?

?

?

On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:

While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!??

??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO


 

And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all that gear train.?

Ryan
On Mar 26, 2022, 1:41 PM -0400, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...>, wrote:

Aside from what you already mentioned, check the engagement of the gear’s teeth for backlash. You can use a plain piece of copier paper between the teeth of two gears.

?

Many times there is more than one set of gears that will give you the same pitch. You could try using some other gear selections.

?

Michael - California, USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chad Rebuck
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2022 10:26 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise

?

I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted?

?

?

On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:

While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!??

??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO


 

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??? ??? Ryan , which ELS did you go with ?

??? ??? thanks

??? ??? animal

On 3/26/2022 10:46 AM, Ryan H via groups.io wrote:

And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all that gear train.?

Ryan


 

Hi. I went with the Clough 42 based system. He has a lot of videos on YouTube about the development and sells a kit that has a board that plugs into a Texas Instruments launchpad board and a control board. The Ti board is available from Digikey, Mouser or direct. The rest of the parts, motor, belts, pulleys, etc can be sourced wherever you want. It wasn't exactly cheap. I have just over $400 US in it but that is literally buying everything including aluminum and screws to build a motor mount. For me it has been great though and I don't have any regrets about doing it. Literally push buttons to change from feeding to imperial threading to metric feed or metric thread. I love the ability to use power feed to cut to diameter, cut a thread and back to feeding in seconds. I wanted a thread change gearbox and to me the ELS is leaps more functional.?

Ryan
On Mar 26, 2022, 2:05 PM -0400, mike allen <animal@...>, wrote:

Ryan , which ELS did you go with ?

thanks

animal

On 3/26/2022 10:46 AM, Ryan H via groups.io wrote:
And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all that gear train.?

Ryan


 

Looks like you need to fiddle around with spacers under the gears to ensure you're getting full gear width tooth engagement. Mine improved with slightly moving/enlarging the detent holes with a rotary file & replacing the spring in the detent handle with a softer one that doesn't require a gorilla to operate.

Roy


 

If the gears are jammed together too tightly (too much engagement of the teeth) that can also cause noise - and excessive tooth wear.

Getting the gears 'just right' -loose but not too loose - is something I find a bit difficult.


 

Some lash between gears is desirable. Any amount of binding between gears is not wanted at all. I was taught that when using the half nuts for threading to always keep keep some tension on the carriage hand wheel with my hand to take up any lash in the gear train.


 

Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.

Roy


 

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.


 

thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?


On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.


 

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On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.

?

Michael - California, USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

?

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chad Rebuck
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise

?

thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?

?

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:

Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.

Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.


 

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This was the case on my machine, too; I tried to do a large threading operation (I think it was 13tpi ) and the lever would just pop out of the detent. Actually calling them ‘center punches’ was generous.

You could probably use JBWeld to fill in the old ones if you have to drill new ones.

On Mar 28, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote:

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?Chad Rebuck
Sent:?Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise
?
thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?
?
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via??<j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.?


--?
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD


 

I just looked at where the indents were and just used a small drill bit to make them a tad deeper and wider. Not much at all. But now without looking, I can feel and know where the lever and detent is. As to drilling. Put the lever where you think it should be and tap it. It should make enough of a mark for you to punch it a bit more for drilling purposes. Drill just enough to work. Later if needed you can drill more. And yes, I sanded a bit off of the spring to make it easier to pull but not enough that it will come loose. The deeper detente also help keep it engaged.

George

On Monday, March 28, 2022, 02:41:15 PM PDT, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:


This was the case on my machine, too; I tried to do a large threading operation (I think it was 13tpi ) and the lever would just pop out of the detent. Actually calling them ‘center punches’ was generous.

You could probably use JBWeld to fill in the old ones if you have to drill new ones.

On Mar 28, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote:

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?Chad Rebuck
Sent:?Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise
?
thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?
?
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via??<j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.?


--?
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD


 


Hi Chad,

Quinn Dunki (Blondihacks) has talked about the way Chinese gears are made and apparently they can be a but rough. You might need to polish then a bit with a file. This will not affect the gear ratios but may increase backlash a bit.

If you do want try different gears for cutting the same thread you might find my free online computer program useful:?? (I must fix the old link in my signature file, if I can find out how to change it!

Evan

Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox and power feed.
My Free Online Geartrain Software:
My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: ?
Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output:?