|
G'day Jim
<snip>
I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I frequently
stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a
place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It certainly
confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got short
changed.
Regards
Ian
Ian and All:
Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the tooling and date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the same manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a parting tool and thus the snip from Ian's post.
This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry! I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem stone. "T" form parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip straight back over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V" form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching holder and the operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems.
Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the amazement of the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very little power to do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is designed to part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
Marty
|
Hi Marty, You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool and especially the business end, won't you? John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
G'day Jim
<snip>
I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It certainly confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got short changed.
Regards
Ian
Ian and All:
Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the tooling and date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the same manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a parting tool and thus the snip from Ian's post.
This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry! I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem stone. "T" form parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip straight back over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V" form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching holder and the operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems.
Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very little power to do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is designed to part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
Marty
|
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom they are?
Marty
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
|
G'day Marty. Until the moderators come out of the cupboard I have posted my pictures on 7x10 minlathe-photos. One good turn deserves another. Regards Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom
they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
|
Hi Marty, Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who don't advertise much! I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified himself as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on the principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages like this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure! John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom
they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting
tool and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
I really don't understand this mystery moderator comment...
Marty lists me as a moderator of the 7x12 group on the first page of
his site -- and I listed his site in the 7x12 Links some time back.
So, that isn't much of a mystery. And Clint identifies himself
periodically as a moderator too, so that isn't hidden either. The
replicating posts ordeal also provided obvious clues to finding
moderators. Both Clint and I post pictures for people as evidenced by
looking at the recently posted pictures - another easy way to find
moderators.
Further, the 7x12 Terms-of-use file in the 7x12 files section, which
provides info on how this group operates suggests a way to find the
moderators. I guess we need to add info on the home page pointing to
the Terms-of-Use, it used to be published at the beginning of each
month but that disappeared a while back.
In some groups, clicking on the Members menu item allows accessing a
list of moderators - I don't know whether that works here because
Yahoo provides a slightly different menu to moderators so I can't
check. Perhaps someone could comment on that?
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
Hi Marty,
Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who
don't advertise much!
I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified himself
as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on the
principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages like
this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure!
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom
they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting
tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
|
Ian and all, send any photos to me are any other mod,
please let me know a name for the folder you want and if you want any
name on the photos
driggars@...
Clint
Ian Foster wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
G'day Marty.
Until the moderators come out of the cupboard I have posted my
pictures on 7x10 minlathe-photos.
One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom
they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Marty
Yes, send them to me or any other mod
Clint
Marty N wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
> G'day Jim
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
> Regards
> Ian
> Ian and All:
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
> Marty
>
Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Hi John, Oops, pardon my ignorance. Intermittent brain connector wiring. Clint was the only mod that came to mind as I typed although I did know you could help too. Maybe I should re-read the Terms of Use. After you join a few related groups the names all merge together! No offense meant about being mysterious - just a mystery to me! John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:
I really don't understand this mystery moderator comment...
Marty lists me as a moderator of the 7x12 group on the first page
of his site -- and I listed his site in the 7x12 Links some time back. So, that isn't much of a mystery. And Clint identifies himself
periodically as a moderator too, so that isn't hidden either. The
replicating posts ordeal also provided obvious clues to finding
moderators. Both Clint and I post pictures for people as evidenced by looking at the recently posted pictures - another easy way to find
moderators.
Further, the 7x12 Terms-of-use file in the 7x12 files section, which provides info on how this group operates suggests a way to find the
moderators. I guess we need to add info on the home page pointing to the Terms-of-Use, it used to be published at the beginning of each
month but that disappeared a while back.
In some groups, clicking on the Members menu item allows accessing a list of moderators - I don't know whether that works here because
Yahoo provides a slightly different menu to moderators so I can't
check. Perhaps someone could comment on that?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@> wrote:
Hi Marty,
Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who
don't advertise much!
I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified
himself as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on
the principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages
like this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure!
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of
whom they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting
tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@>
wrote: >
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I
wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide.
It certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I
got short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the
face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring
bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased
the tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of
the same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not
all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is
a parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece
of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if
you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a
gem stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel
blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the
chip straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the
matching holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after
the amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use
very little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool
is designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one
operation! >
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more
to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
To find moderators, go too the group home page, click members. once
there, look towards the top, you should see a link that says moderators,
click it, then you will see the moderators listed.
John is correct in all he said in this post
Clint
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
In some groups, clicking on the Members menu item allows accessing a
list of moderators - I don't know whether that works here because
Yahoo provides a slightly different menu to moderators so I can't
check. Perhaps someone could comment on that?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
Hi Marty,
Now isn't that a good question? They are a mysterious bunch who
don't advertise much!
I noticed a post a few hours back from Clint who identified himself
as a moderator here. You could also contact the list owner on the
principle of going for the boss or if we just bounce messages like
this around, one of them will pop his head up for sure!
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
John:
Would I send the photo to the list owner? List moderator? of whom
they are?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting
tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted
it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of
tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face
plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting
tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars
was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all
the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of
fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you
are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the
geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow"
to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and
directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact.
Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed"
address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to
do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square
faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Okay John:
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt.
Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.
Marty
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
|
Marty
I am now going in to upload the photos for you shorty, I will call your album Martys Folder
Clint
Marty N wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Okay John:
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt.
Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
> G'day Jim
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
> Regards
> Ian
> Ian and All:
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
> Marty
>
Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links
|
The photos look well to me, good job on them, they are now uploaded to Marty's Folder
Clint
Marty N wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Okay John:
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt.
Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
> G'day Jim
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
> Regards
> Ian
> Ian and All:
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
> Marty
>
Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Marty, Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish. Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info would be appreciated. Jeff PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections * REPLY SEPARATOR * On 4/7/2007 at 5:03 PM Clint D wrote: The photos look well to me, good job on them, they are now uploaded to
Marty's Folder
Clint
Marty N wrote:
Okay John:
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others.
Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting,
drove me nutty in attempt.
Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool
and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it
at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling,
fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate
and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling.
Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was
engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the
same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine
jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are
looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry
of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to
the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it
by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think
of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address
it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do
with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced
tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
- Demand Designs Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing jdemand@... -
|
Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime.
On center if I understand your question correctly. I sent Clint what I hope is a clearer picture a bit closer. Getting a snap of the front end was a disaster. The upper point of the vee is the first thing to contact the material. From the side view the relief under the point is 10 degrees back and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the remainder. The square portion is .310" as is the round. From the square to the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included and .150 from the tip to the flat. The tool tapers from the vee in width from .180" back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is about 10 degrees included. Hope that helps.
Marty,
Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder
locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing
type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top
angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only
cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish.
Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info
would be appreciated.
Jeff
PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light
diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light
and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections
|
Marty, Thanks, I usually use eye ball numbers and yours are a very good start. Now to just get the time to grind a standard tool and one like yours... Jeff * REPLY SEPARATOR * On 4/7/2007 at 7:22 PM Marty N wrote: Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime.
On center if I understand your question correctly. I sent Clint what I
hope
is a clearer picture a bit closer. Getting a snap of the front end was a
disaster. The upper point of the vee is the first thing to contact the
material. From the side view the relief under the point is 10 degrees back and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the
remainder. The square portion is .310" as is the round. From the square to the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included and
.150
from the tip to the flat. The tool tapers from the vee in width from .180" back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is about 10 degrees included. Hope that helps.
Marty,
Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder
locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing
type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top
angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only
cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish.
Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info
would be appreciated.
Jeff
PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light
diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light
and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections
Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.26/750 - Release Date: 4/6/2007 9:30 PM - Demand Designs Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing jdemand@... -
|
Marty,
Thanks, I usually use eye ball numbers and yours are a very good start.
Now to just get the time to grind a standard tool and one like yours...
Jeff
* REPLY SEPARATOR *
Your welcome
Marty
|
Thanks Marty, Those pics help clarify a lot - well worth a thousand words! In terms of diffusing flash, a white tissue over the flash is pretty effective. Fold a few layers and tape them if needed. You game to tackle a front-on view? If the camera is autofocussing you may need to sit the tool on top of something else (at the same range) to fool the camera into focussing on the small target. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
Okay John:
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well
as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt.
Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting
Hi Marty,
You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting
tool and especially the business end, won't you?
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Thanks Marty,
In terms of diffusing flash, a white tissue over the flash is pretty
effective. Fold a few layers and tape them if needed. You game to
tackle a front-on view? If the camera is autofocussing you may need
to sit the tool on top of something else (at the same range) to fool
the camera into focussing on the small target.
Hi John:
It's one of the things I dislike about the digital camera. I can get a pic of the eye of a fly with my manual Pentax film camera but this Fuji Digital is a focusing nightmare. I spend hours yesterday getting what I did get and likely drove Clint bannanas reposting snaps for me, sorry Clint. I'll have a go at your request and try the tissue paper idea. Should have thought of that myself. Use bounce flash or reflectors with film :(
Marty
|
Hi Marty, The round shank is an interesting feature - they went to some trouble to grind that since they started with a square blank. My guess is that this is a threading tool rather than a cutoff tool; the round shank allows angling the tool as is needed when making square threads. Martin Cleeve recommends round shank threading tools for this reason in "Screwcutting in the Lathe". One suggested profile for cutoff tools is with a V in the top of the tool. This works as a chipbreaker so chips don't pack into the narrow groove. I've found this works well but it is tricky to get an accurate V such that it cuts the same on both sides of the groove. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime.
On center if I understand your question correctly. I sent Clint what
I hope is a clearer picture a bit closer. Getting a snap of the front end was a disaster. The upper point of the vee is the first thing to contact the
material. From the side view the relief under the point is 10 degrees back and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the
remainder. The square portion is .310" as is the round. From the square to the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included and .150 from the tip to the flat. The tool tapers from the vee in width from .180" back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is about 10 degrees included. Hope that helps.
Marty,
Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder
locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top
angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish.
Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info
would be appreciated.
Jeff
PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light
diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections
|
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