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I've used the steady rest a few times to support larger diameter work when the tailstock center was in the way. I found that the stock brass pieces didn't retract far enough to suit work which would still fit through the opening in the frame, so I spent some time with files and enlarged the slots in those. The end of those brass pieces weren't square, so fixing that and rounding the ends a bit with fine sandpaper helped, too. Along with a liberal shot of oil when things were moving... :)  
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I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod. Has someone have success with this solution? ? &johnnes ?
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Well, most bearing places will have a choice of bearings. Dont think it would be hard to add them onto what you have.
george
On Friday, March 18, 2022, 06:09:29 PM PDT, Johannes <johannes@...> wrote:
I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod. Has someone have success with this solution? ? &johnnes ?
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Yes, worked fine for me once I learned how to set it up.
On Friday, March 18, 2022, 06:08:24 PM PDT, Johannes <johannes@...> wrote:
I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod. Has someone have success with this solution? ? &johnnes ?
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Thanks to George and Arthur I have some old bearing to start testing with. &johannes ? ? Sendt fr? for Windows ? ? Well, most bearing places will have a choice of bearings. Dont think it would be hard to add them onto what you have. On Friday, March 18, 2022, 06:09:29 PM PDT, Johannes <johannes@...> wrote: I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod. Has someone have success with this solution?
? &johnnes ?
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On Fri, Mar 18, 2022 at 06:08 PM, Johannes wrote:
I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod.
Has someone have success with this solution?
Low speed and plenty of lubrication seems to work for me with the steady rest, and I don't leave the lathe running if I'm not cutting. I bought that LMS bearing set but I don't think I will use it, as I couldn't turn larger diameter work with those bearings on the end of the brass pieces. BTW, the bearings in the LMS 'kit' are R3-ZZ bearings; they are a press fit on a 10-32 cap screw.
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On Fri, Mar 18, 2022 at 07:08 PM, Johannes wrote:
I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod.
Has someone have success with this solution?
?
&johnnes
?
I also must be doing something wrong.? ? And I have modified the rest with ball bearings.? ?The work was anodized aluminum tube which was well marred by the effort.? ? Very carefully fitting duct tape can help.? ?I don't have much need for the rest so not much of an issue. The slots do need to be modified to gain back some lost capacity - but not all the loss can be regained. -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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you can wrap the work piece with s piece of cardboard like from
the bottom of a tablet & the adjust the fingers to fit the
cardboard . I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside
out.
animal
On 3/20/2022 5:06 AM, Craig Hopewell
via groups.io wrote:
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On Fri, Mar 18, 2022 at 07:08 PM, Johannes wrote:
I dont like this steady rest, I am sure I am
doing something wrong, it always destroy my metal rod.
Has someone have success with this solution?
?
&johnnes
?
I also must be doing something work.? ? And I have modified the
rest with ball bearings.? ?The work was anodized aluminum tube
which was well marred by the effort.? ? Very carefully fitting
duct tape can help.? ?I don't have much need for the rest so not
much of an issue.
The slots do need to be modified to gain back some lost capacity -
but not all the loss can be regained.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 10:29 AM, mike allen wrote:
I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside out.
Good suggestions, thanks. I did some reading/watching just now and well-oiled emery cloth inside-out, with the cloth sliding on the workpiece was one solution. I think a bushing of some kind, clamped to the work -in a non-marring way - might be the solution for delicate workpieces like anodized or blued pieces. Gunsmiths deal with this issue when working on blued rifle barrels. A lot of the machinist comments online mentioned bearings marring the work because it was easy for metal particles to get rolled on to the workpiece, so that's something to protect against with some sort of shield.,
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Anyone have some good illustrated tips on using a steady rest? Step by step from the very beginning?
I have tried but never got it really centered.
Ralph
On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie= [email protected]> wrote: On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 10:29 AM, mike allen wrote:
I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside out.
Good suggestions, thanks. I did some reading/watching just now and well-oiled emery cloth inside-out, with the cloth sliding on the workpiece was one solution. I think a bushing of some kind, clamped to the work -in a non-marring way - might be the solution for delicate workpieces like anodized or blued pieces. Gunsmiths deal with this issue when working on blued rifle barrels.
A lot of the machinist comments online mentioned bearings marring the work because it was easy for metal particles to get rolled on to the workpiece, so that's something to protect against with some sort of shield.,
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< > ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2022 12:15 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Steady rest tune-up ? Anyone have some good illustrated tips on using a steady rest? Step by step from the very beginning? I have tried but never got it really centered. ? On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote: On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 10:29 AM, mike allen wrote: I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside out.
Good suggestions, thanks. I did some reading/watching just now and well-oiled emery cloth inside-out, with the cloth sliding on the workpiece was one solution. I think a bushing of some kind, clamped to the work -in a non-marring way - might be the solution for delicate workpieces like anodized or blued pieces. Gunsmiths deal with this issue when working on blued rifle barrels.
A lot of the machinist comments online mentioned bearings marring the work because it was easy for metal particles to get rolled on to the workpiece, so that's something to protect against with some sort of shield.,
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Yup, first time I used my steady rest I found this and it made everything make sense and go much easier. I did run into an issue on the steady rest itself, the fingers were not moving well so I had to so call overhauls the steady rest. Now the fingers move easily.
On Sunday, March 20, 2022, 12:48:37 PM PDT, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote:
< > ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2022 12:15 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Steady rest tune-up ? Anyone have some good illustrated tips on using a steady rest? Step by step from the very beginning? I have tried but never got it really centered. ? On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote: On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 10:29 AM, mike allen wrote: I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside out.
Good suggestions, thanks. I did some reading/watching just now and well-oiled emery cloth inside-out, with the cloth sliding on the workpiece was one solution. I think a bushing of some kind, clamped to the work -in a non-marring way - might be the solution for delicate workpieces like anodized or blued pieces. Gunsmiths deal with this issue when working on blued rifle barrels.
A lot of the machinist comments online mentioned bearings marring the work because it was easy for metal particles to get rolled on to the workpiece, so that's something to protect against with some sort of shield.,
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Also this is nice from Blondihacks
? I Will do this. ? /johannes ? Sendt fr? for Windows ? ? Yup, first time I used my steady rest I found this and it made everything make sense and go much easier. I did run into an issue on the steady rest itself, the fingers were not moving well so I had to so call overhauls the steady rest. Now the fingers move easily. On Sunday, March 20, 2022, 12:48:37 PM PDT, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote: < > ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2022 12:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Steady rest tune-up? Anyone have some good illustrated tips on using a steady rest? Step by step from the very beginning? I have tried but never got it really centered. ? On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote: On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 10:29 AM, mike allen wrote: I think you can also use emery cloth turned inside out.
Good suggestions, thanks. I did some reading/watching just now and well-oiled emery cloth inside-out, with the cloth sliding on the workpiece was one solution. I think a bushing of some kind, clamped to the work -in a non-marring way - might be the solution for delicate workpieces like anodized or blued pieces. Gunsmiths deal with this issue when working on blued rifle barrels.
A lot of the machinist comments online mentioned bearings marring the work because it was easy for metal particles to get rolled on to the workpiece, so that's something to protect against with some sort of shield.,
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On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 07:50 PM, Johannes wrote:
Also this is nice from Blondihacks
Nice project IF you have a good milling machine. :)
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I have only a LMS 4700 , so I am collection good advices. ? /johannes ? Sendt fr? for Windows ? ? On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 07:50 PM, Johannes wrote: Also this is nice from Blondihacks
Nice project IF you have a good milling machine. :)
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 -- Since I have just been cleaning and painting a steady that was given to me for my Boxford A lathe, your post caught my attention. I like the big open gate at the top. It bolts onto the ways with a plate underneath the bed. ? I have been using this with no problems. It has hardened steel fingers. I have not seen significant damage to my work, but it can be expected. Just plan for it I suppose and expect to re-turn the circumference later, when you can fit a tailstock center. ?I have been turning stainless steel, which can handle it. I love the way it forces the work to stay concentric. This is important for the ER32 collet holder I am making for a grinding/milling-motor attachment to go on the cross-slide in place of the compound slide. ?(Love Quinn Dunkie's work. I don't have a milling machine, but then a milling tool on the cross-slide might help.). Evan Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox and power feed. My Free Online Geartrain Software: My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: ? Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output:?
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Johannes
Evan