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I have a project that will require 1/8” x 1/4” SS flat stock to be formed at 90 degrees in the wide (1/4”) direction. I large gradual bend is ok. I want the 1/8” thickness to remain perfectly flat. Any suggestions are welcome. Dick -- Dick
?OFF-SET TAILSTOCK CENTER PLANS
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS??LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS??QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Hi Dick, some questions.
How long is the finished part?? And, does it have to be one piece?? Bending something with that small a thickness/width ratio will be very challenging,? ?Silver-soldering two pieces together might be an alternative.? Or screwing them together.? Or milling a piece of 1/4" stock.
Online Metals has L shapes in 304? and 316? stainless.? The smallest I found has .75" legs but it is 1/8" thick, so you would have to cut down the lengths of the sides.
BTW, Happy New Year!
Mark
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Hello Dick, ? A little more information would be helpful. ? You say a “gradual” bend is ok, but gradual is too general. What is the tolerance of the 90 degree bend? ? inch radius? 2 inch radius? Etc… ? Are you familiar with making a bending jig? < > ? Heating the metal will make the bend much easier. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 - LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of OldToolmaker via groups.io Sent: Saturday, January 1, 2022 6:48 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Forming 1/8”x1/4” Flat Stock ? I have a project that will require 1/8” x 1/4” SS flat stock to be formed at 90 degrees in the wide (1/4”) direction. I large gradual bend is ok. I want the 1/8” thickness to remain perfectly flat.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Dick
--
Dick
?OFF-SET TAILSTOCK CENTER PLANS
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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If you bend it, it won't keep the same thickness in the bent section. The outside of the bend will be drawn thinner & the inside of the bend will be compressed thicker (& will probably wrinkle.) To make a flat piece, either cut it from plate or join (TIG or silbraze) 2 flat pieces & dress the joint appropriately.
Roy
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Hi Mark,
I have not yet designed my project so the requirements are fuzzy at best. I want to build an adjustable frame jewelers fret saw that can make use of broken pieces of saw blade. That is the purpose of the adjustable frame. I know I can purchase a commercially available saw frame but would enjoy the challenge of fabricating my own.
Dick
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Hi Michael,
The radius would be approximately 1/2”.
Dick
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There’s a very nice jeweler’s saw build on Instructables:??to mine for ideas; This design allows for shorter blades not by adjusting the frame but by extending the blade holder in and out of the handle.?
Hi Mark,
I have not yet designed my project so the requirements are fuzzy at best. I want to build an adjustable frame jewelers fret saw that can make use of broken pieces of saw blade. That is the purpose of the adjustable frame. I know I can purchase a commercially available saw frame but would enjoy the challenge of fabricating my own.
Dick
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Thanks, Bruce!
The design you pointed me to is a great starting point for me. It sure eliminates the bending of 1/8” x 1/4” flat stock. I kind of like the look of the traditional jewelers saw,
but this design simplifies construction and is stronger for sure.
Dick
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As noted the material will not be a perfect finish if you bend it. If I were making a jig I would take a 1" rod maybe 2" long? and turn the end down to 1/2" diameter?for 1/2" making the corner square. You could use the bar to be bent as a guide for the actual diameter.?Use a parting tool to make a shoulder that is 1/8" thick and the cut 1/8" deep. You could use the bar to be bent as a guide for the shoulder thickness. Turn the rest of the end down as required?for a 3/8 thread. Take a 3/8 plate and drill and tap for a 3/8 thread where you feel it needs to be. Thread the rod into the plate. Place the jig in a vise with your bar to be bent in the groove in the bottom of the rod. push the assembly down so the bar is tight against the top of the vise jaw and bend away. As noted by others heat would help. Paul M?
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I have decided to cut the jewelers saw frame from 1/4” thick 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum plate and follow the plan that was linked to in a previous post.
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Just the upper tensioning/securing mechanism needs a rework. Pushing the threaded section into the softer aluminium?will end in tears...and sticky adjustments.
Alternately, the same slider used at the bottom of the commercial sawframes, the one that allows adjusting the frame, can be reproduced at the top as well, thus eliminating the bend altogether.
On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 7:28 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: I have decided to cut the jewelers saw frame from 1/4” thick 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum plate and follow the plan that was linked to in a previous post.
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This style of saw design was really pioneered by Knew concepts who make really good, (and really $$$) coping and jeweler’s saws
Many more theftable ideas on their website:??
Thanks, Bruce! The design you pointed me to is a great starting point for me. It sure eliminates the bending of 1/8” x 1/4” flat stock. I kind of like the look of the traditional jewelers saw, but this design simplifies construction and is stronger for sure. Dick
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--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Nickel never seize should solve the sticky adjustment problem.? I
think 7075-T6 would be the better choice of material.
On 1/3/2022 8:45 AM, mario mohl wrote:
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Just the upper tensioning/securing mechanism needs
a rework. Pushing the threaded section into the softer
aluminium?will end in tears...and sticky adjustments.
Alternately, the same slider used at the bottom of the
commercial sawframes, the one that allows adjusting the frame,
can be reproduced at the top as well, thus eliminating the
bend altogether.
On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 7:28 AM
OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have decided to cut the jewelers saw frame from 1/4”
thick 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum plate and follow the plan
that was linked to in a previous post.
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It's the threads that will end up marking/embedding into the guide hole, nickel or not, that part should, at the very least be smooth and not threaded. Hardened and ground? even better.
Personally, i would still go for the adjustable frame version, which is where the subject started out.? The bend can be hammered and sanded smooth easily enough, besides it not even being such a huge deal in the first place.
Nickel never seize should solve the sticky adjustment problem.? I
think 7075-T6 would be the better choice of material.
On 1/3/2022 8:45 AM, mario mohl wrote:
Just the upper tensioning/securing mechanism needs
a rework. Pushing the threaded section into the softer
aluminium?will end in tears...and sticky adjustments.
Alternately, the same slider used at the bottom of the
commercial sawframes, the one that allows adjusting the frame,
can be reproduced at the top as well, thus eliminating the
bend altogether.
On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 7:28 AM
OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have decided to cut the jewelers saw frame from 1/4”
thick 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum plate and follow the plan
that was linked to in a previous post.
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I think if I were making this, I'd do it in steel rather than aluminum. There's no particular need for light weight here. Also with steel you'd have less waste because you could braze the frame from three pieces instead of sawing it out of a larger plate.
My current problem is finding high-quality jeweler saw blades. Does anyone know of good sources? Most of the ones online are junk.
Mike Taglieri?
It's the threads that will end up marking/embedding into the guide hole, nickel or not, that part should, at the very least be smooth and not threaded. Hardened and ground? even better.
Personally, i would still go for the adjustable frame version, which is where the subject started out.? The bend can be hammered and sanded smooth easily enough, besides it not even being such a huge deal in the first place.
Nickel never seize should solve the sticky adjustment problem.? I
think 7075-T6 would be the better choice of material.
On 1/3/2022 8:45 AM, mario mohl wrote:
Just the upper tensioning/securing mechanism needs
a rework. Pushing the threaded section into the softer
aluminium?will end in tears...and sticky adjustments.
Alternately, the same slider used at the bottom of the
commercial sawframes, the one that allows adjusting the frame,
can be reproduced at the top as well, thus eliminating the
bend altogether.
On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 7:28 AM
OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have decided to cut the jewelers saw frame from 1/4”
thick 6061 or 7075 T6 aluminum plate and follow the plan
that was linked to in a previous post.
|
I think if I were making this, I'd do it in steel rather than aluminum. There's no particular need for light weight here. Also with steel you'd have less waste because you could braze the frame from three pieces instead of sawing it out of a larger plate.
With a saw of this design, light weight is an advantage if you’re going to be using it a lot.?
My current problem is finding high-quality jeweler saw blades. Does anyone know of good sources? Most of the ones online are junk.
Rio Grande sells Herkules german-made ones ?($27/144 blades (price varies with size) Knew Concepts sells them as well, but at $5.50/dozen More expensive but if you’re not making a lot of jewelry, 144 blades is several lifetime’s worth of supply :-)?
They also have their own brand which are swiss-made which appear to be a bit cheaper.?
This company is referenced as making very good ones??I do know that Clickpring recommends their files...
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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You beat me to recommending Rio Grande as a supplier ;-)?
I've been pleased with them since I lived in Albuquerque in the '70s & could just wander in to pick up stuff. Their target market is people making a living using their products, so, they don't sell junk.
Roy
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Bruce,
Do a search on Google for:?
Pegas Jewelers saw blades.
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Mike,
I bet if you were to ask a jeweler or craftsman who spends a lot of time at the bench using a jewelers saw you would get quite a different opinion on saw weight. Hand fatigue is an issue. Of course for the occasional user it is less of an issue.
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In that case, Dick, go carbon fibre all the way any day. And the bend is a non issue before the resin sets up.
On Tue, Jan 4, 2022 at 8:05 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: Mike,
I bet if you were to ask a jeweler or craftsman who spends a lot of time at the bench using a jewelers saw you would get quite a different opinion on saw weight. Hand fatigue is an issue. Of course for the occasional user it is less of an issue.
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OldToolmaker