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Removing Tang From A Morse Taper
John, when I wanted to shorten the tang on mine, I purchased a 3"
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Cut-Off Blade with Mandrel. Then I clamped the Taper (with suitable padding) vertically in my X-Y vise on the drill press table. I wrapped a wet towel around the Taper, to act as a heat sink, and placed the Cut-Off Wheel in the drill press chuck. Running the drill press at slow speed, I fed the vise against it. I was surprised how easily it cut. After that operation, I dressed up the edge of the cut in the grinder. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:
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Thanks for the reply.
I do have a 3" blade and holder. I forgot I had it until you said!! John - In 7x12minilathe@..., "wardwmiller" <wardmiller@...> wrote: suitable padding) vertically in my X-Y vise on the drill press table. Idrill press at slow speed, I fed the vise against it. I was surprisedhow easily it cut. After that operation, I dressed up the edge of thecut in the grinder.drill hacksaw ,chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a metalmetal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a cutting blade for. |
Most MT's are hardened and neither a hacksaw or bandsaw will touch them. I have cit several using an angle grinder and disc.
You need to measure carefully before you cut, if you cut too short you will not be able to ejrct it when you retract the tailstock below "0". To measure wind out the tailstock a couple of inches and mark the taper with a magic marker or tape etc then rewind to eject the MT and then wind down to "0" and measure the depth. THen transfer the measurement to the MT and cut to length. Cut slowly and cool in water so you don't soften the MT and then face up and give a light chamfer with a bench grinder - job done! Gerry Leeds UK From: "jcmackastro" <jm@...>_________________________________________________________________ MSN Hotmail is evolving - check out the new Windows Live Mail |
It pays to check the hardness before going to a lot of trouble to
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shorten the taper - its easy if the taper isn't hardened -- many of the Chinese tapers are soft. My chuck and taper were from HF; I used a file to determine that the taper wasn't hardened. I then took the easy way out, grabbed the drill chuck in the 3 jaw and used a rolling center in the little hole in the end of the tang. The parting blade cut part way through easily and I finished up with a hacksaw while running at low RPM, then smoothed the end with a file. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:
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Thanks John , I will see how hard it is first , I have found a metal
cutting disc for the angle grinder so I might just "attack it" with this anyway. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote: the taper wasn't hardened. I then took the easy way out, grabbed thedrill chuck in the 3 jaw and used a rolling center in the little hole inthe end of the tang. The parting blade cut part way through easilyand I finished up with a hacksaw while running at low RPM, then smoothedthe end with a file.drill hacksaw ,chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a metalmetal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a cutting blade for. |
Steve Claggett
I have used the thin cutoff disks in a Dremel tool. Cuts hardened
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tangs and leaves a fine finish. Soak your disks in atf, they last longer. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:
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Hi John,
Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up on the bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but blunted it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll have problems ejecting the arbor. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote: hacksaw , metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a metal |
Hi All.
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Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the vice using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in stock and they are cheaper than using a 12" blade. Must buy myself a powered Hacksaw, the type that takes a normal blade. Finished of on a grinding wheel. Looks OK. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
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It only took me about 2mins to cut of the tang. I used a thin 41/2"
metal cutting disc that I bought from machine mart. Lots of sparks but it cut it easily. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@...> wrote: vice using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot ofwrote: on the bluntedbench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but you'llit rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and drillhave problems ejecting the arbor. metalchuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have ahacksaw ,metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a cutting blade for. |
Hello.
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Took me about 2 hours!! Good exercise? Removed the tang and about 5mm of main body. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" <ellis103@...>
wrote: have problems ejecting the arbor....... to make up the difference and it does not have to be cosmetic. HTH...and John repeated: Get the length right. Keep the other suggestions as fallback options. <G> |
Michael Taglieri
The ones I've gotten from Enco are casehardened, but not necessarily
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through hardened. If you don't have a big grinder, a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk works well enough if you're in no hurry. If you cut it a bit too short, as I did on one once, you can epoxy or solder a bit of mild steel in the center to build it out again. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:21:42 +0000 "gerry waclawiak" <gerrywac@...> writes: Most MT's are hardened and neither a hacksaw or bandsaw will touch
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