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steel alloys
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Richard Kleinhenz
Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell what you have? Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has some yellow or blue color on it. Is that meaningful?
Secondly, if you bought some stuff and don't use it all - do you write the alloy on it with permanent marker? Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean telling stainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod. How do you store it? Inside, of course, in a 'dry' basement that is unheated and not all that dry. Do you keep the alloys separated? Make up your own color coding? Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust? Looking for ideas! -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... ======================================== |
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Jim E.
If I know what it is, I somehow keep track of it, even the cutoffs.
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This may be by label or segregation. Mine is stored in a shed. My philosophy is if it can rust, it will. I once sprayed some 12L14 with rust preventive, still had surface rust, so I just accept it. Same with corrosion on certain Al alloys. I haven't a clue what the colors mean, if anything. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Richard Kleinhenz wrote:
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smurf707
There is not universal color coding system, each metal foundry has
its own, or smaller shops make there own. I worked in a tool and die shop a couple years ago that used white for d2, yellow for a2, and there was one other I forget. Sean --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <woodnpen@o...> wrote: Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell whatyou have? Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has some yellow or blue color on it. Is that meaningful? write the alloy on it with permanent marker? Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean telling stainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod. is unheated and not all that dry. Do you keep the alloys separated? Make up your own color coding? Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust? Looking for ideas!
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Richard Albers
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote: Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell whatBasically, you have to take the supplier's word for it. If he lies a lot, find another supplier, or a favorite salesperson. Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has someOnly at that particular supplier's lot. I have 3 suppliers nearby that I frequent. All 3 use different color codes. There does not seem to be any standard at all, for any metal I know of. Secondly, if you bought some stuff and don't use it all - do youI use a Sharpie (brand) pen. It writes on most everything, and seems to be close to permanent - but cutting fluid does take it off... Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean tellingstainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod. James Early posted two from ME (I think), perhaps he will tell us where they are (my filing "system" does not track sources). Called "What metal is it?" by R. H. Warring, July 21, 1955. How do you store it? Inside, of course, in a 'dry' basement thatNo, I don't have that much. Yet... Mine is just leaning in a corner. Make up your own color coding?Sounds like a good idea, if you keep a lot of colors of paint around. I just mark it on the end with a Sharpie. Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust?I tried that, it worked for a while but then started to rust again. I think grease will last longer - I'm testing that idea now. It is definately messier. RA in rainy(!) Southern California |
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