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Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members:
I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for different drilling twisting forces.
My questions:
1) what is the best start method to make a start mark?
2) when I am drilling:
a) constant soft pressure?
b) pumping up/down to release spoon
(My steel are only making dust)
Johannes Lavoll.
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Hi johannes,
Check if your drill works OK on ordinary flat material.? Maybe it's dull.
Check if your rod is rotating while you are trying to drill it.? The drill may be creating forces that want to cause the rod to spin as it's being drilled.?
It appears you have had some problems with your fixture so maybe it's not quite right yet.
Drills don't like starting on round stock, they tend to wander.? If you can, try milling a small flat on the rod before you drill a hole there.? Using a small? spotting drill to get your hole started may also work.? ?In the case of milling a flat on the rod, that option likely depends on what your requirements are.? Getting a hole-to-hole seal:? bad idea.? A center-cutting end mill with the right diameter also might work:? or starting with a smaller one and finishing with a drill the right diameter would.
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All of Mark’s comments are valid (especially milling a flat spot to keep the drill from trying to wander when it starts to cut).? Because of its small diameter, you will want the drill to be spinning at quite a high RPM and your drill may currently be spinning too slowly.? You also will want to consider using a good quality cobalt drill as they will stay sharp for a longer period.? It would help us to know what kind of steel you are trying to drill. ? Jerry F. ??? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark Kimball
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2024 8:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole? Hi johannes,
Check if your drill works OK on ordinary flat material.? Maybe it's dull.
Check if your rod is rotating while you are trying to drill it.? The drill may be creating forces that want to cause the rod to spin as it's being drilled.?
It appears you have had some problems with your fixture so maybe it's not quite right yet.
Drills don't like starting on round stock, they tend to wander.? If you can, try milling a small flat on the rod before you drill a hole there.? Using a small? spotting drill to get your hole started may also work.? ?In the case of milling a flat on the rod, that option likely depends on what your requirements are.? Getting a hole-to-hole seal:? bad idea.? A center-cutting end mill with the right diameter also might work:? or starting with a smaller one and finishing with a drill the right diameter would.
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Standard drill bits are springy and will bend, this is why they wonder around. ?Start the hole with a “center drill” these is very short and stubby drills that are only used to make a “V” shape indent. ? Then you come back with the standard bit.
If you are unable to mill a flat spot then the usual procedure is to place a punch on the guide hole and make a dent. ?Punches come ig different dimeters like drilled and look a little ?like a drill with no flutes but only a sharp point. ?Hit it with a hammer andmake a divot. ?then center drill and then final drill. ? Just remembered, the punch is called a “transfer punch”. ?You can make one from drill rod if you have the means to case harden it.
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On May 4, 2024, at 9:29?PM, Gerald Feldman via groups.io <gfeldman2904@...> wrote:
All of Mark’s comments are valid (especially milling a flat spot to keep the drill from trying to wander when it starts to cut).? Because of its small diameter, you will want the drill to be spinning at quite a high RPM and your drill may currently be spinning too slowly.? You also will want to consider using a good quality cobalt drill as they will stay sharp for a longer period.? It would help us to know what kind of steel you are trying to drill.? ? Jerry F. ??? ? ? Hi johannes,
Check if your drill works OK on ordinary flat material.? Maybe it's dull.
Check if your rod is rotating while you are trying to drill it.? The drill may be creating forces that want to cause the rod to spin as it's being drilled.??
It appears you have had some problems with your fixture so maybe it's not quite right yet.
Drills don't like starting on round stock, they tend to wander.? If you can, try milling a small flat on the rod before you drill a hole there.? Using a small? spotting drill to get your hole started may also work.? ?In the case of milling a flat on the rod, that option likely depends on what your requirements are.? Getting a hole-to-hole seal:? bad idea.? A center-cutting end mill with the right diameter also might work:? or starting with a smaller one and finishing with a drill the right diameter would.?
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Thanks boys, you have given me some new idea. ? I am lazy, so I will first shorten a drillbit to minimum so it will not be so flexible. Only 3 mm visible length. I have a good mill. The rod is cheap hard metal, however, everything is locked very well to table . The drill is new and of good quality. Regrinding a 1 mm drill is difficult. Litlebit wrong grinding, and the drill will jump around. ? If this not work well, I will make a punch and hammer a mark for the drill. Maybe I have a 1 mm center drill? ?The brass bit will keep the rod in correct position. ? Milling first a flat is also possible. Take some extra time, however, maybe it will take away a bit of the rod strength? See you next week. ? /johannes Mexico ? ?
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You might try pushing the bit further into the chuck as a way to shorten the bit even though it will be on the flutes some. Paul M
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If drilling "a lot" of holes, milling a flat on the rod is not practical.
A grooved block with a guide hole will be far more practical
Thanks boys, you have given me some new idea. ? I am lazy, so I will first shorten a drillbit to minimum so it will not be so flexible. Only 3 mm visible length. I have a good mill. The rod is cheap hard metal, however, everything is locked very well to table . The drill is new and of good quality. Regrinding a 1 mm drill is difficult. Litlebit wrong grinding, and the drill will jump around. ? If this not work well, I will make a punch and hammer a mark for the drill. Maybe I have a 1 mm center drill?? The brass bit will keep the rod in correct position. ? Milling first a flat is also possible. Take some extra time, however, maybe it will take away a bit of the rod strength? See you next week. ? /johannes Mexico ? ?
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Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole. They're roughly the same thing
as a centre drill except wider tip angle (centre drill is 60 degree).
Then again a centre drill would probably work just fine given you're only
drilling 1mm holes.
You might also consider bits used for drilling circuit boards (PCBs).
Normally those are carbide, but you can get HSS ones. They have a 3mm shank
and the fluted part will be 5-10mm, so stiffer than a typical drill.
The carbide versions need high speed (above 20k) and are very brittle, but
could work. Not in your drill press though, you need something like those
air die grinders for that.
Possible that mounting the carbide drill in the lathe and the steel bar on
the tool post might work. I've put my die grinder on the tool post and used
it to drill holes and grind stuff.
Tony
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of
Johannes via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, 5 May 2024 12:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole
Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members:
I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for different drilling twisting forces.
My questions:
1) what is the best start method to make a start mark?
2) when I am drilling:
a) constant soft pressure?
b) pumping up/down to release spoon
(My steel are only making dust)
Johannes Lavoll.
|
? Thanks Tony I learned a new word to day: spotting drill I had one in my box, always wounder how it looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm hole with. To morrow I will check my center drills , maybe I will find one packed in a oily paper, packed in a red box. /johannes Mexico ? ?
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From: Tony SmithSent: s?ndag 5. mai 2024 10:33 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole ? Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole.? They're roughly the same thing as a centre drill except wider tip angle (centre drill is 60 degree). ? Then again a centre drill would probably work just fine given you're only drilling 1mm holes. ? ?
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The idea of a spotting drill is they have an angle slightly bigger than your drill, so 120 or 140 degree is typical.? This means the drill starts off nice and centred as opposed to what happens with something like a centre punch. ? But yeah, they’re not really all that good at drilling holes.? Terrible chip clearance and all that. ? You can get 90 degree ones for countersinking screw heads, they do a better jo than a countersink drill because you can match them to the screw head diameter and recess them a bit.? You don’t get that little gap that the countersink bit gives you. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Johannes via groups.io
Sent: Monday, 6 May 2024 4:58 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole? ? Thanks Tony I learned a new word to day: spotting drill I had one in my box, always wounder how it looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm hole with. To morrow I will check my center drills , maybe I will find one packed in a oily paper, packed in a red box. /johannes Mexico ? ? ? Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole.? They're roughly the same thing as a centre drill except wider tip angle (centre drill is 60 degree). ? Then again a centre drill would probably work just fine given you're only drilling 1mm holes. ? ?
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You're drilling lots of these holes, so it would waste too much time to use a spotting drill, mill flats on the rod, and so on. Instead I would use a guide block, but different than the one in your picture. You say everything is locked to the table, but I see your hand holding the rod. I suggest drilling and tapping your guide so a setscrew? (maybe one on each side) could hold the rod in place.? Also, I would make the guide of steel and MUCH taller. There should be? by 5-10 mm of metal supporting the drill bit before it reaches the rod. If the drill is supported like?that, it should easily make the holes.
Mike Taglieri?
Thanks boys, you have given me some new idea. ? I am lazy, so I will first shorten a drillbit to minimum so it will not be so flexible. Only 3 mm visible length. I have a good mill. The rod is cheap hard metal, however, everything is locked very well to table . The drill is new and of good quality. Regrinding a 1 mm drill is difficult. Litlebit wrong grinding, and the drill will jump around. ? If this not work well, I will make a punch and hammer a mark for the drill. Maybe I have a 1 mm center drill?? The brass bit will keep the rod in correct position. ? Milling first a flat is also possible. Take some extra time, however, maybe it will take away a bit of the rod strength? See you next week. ? /johannes Mexico ? ?
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????? A bit off topic but Johanes I'm wondering if you have
supply houses where you can get drills & lathe bits in your
p[art of the country . I have one that @ 50 miles from me in Reno
& another in Carson City @ 80 miles from me so it's not out of
the question to make a drive for something if I really need it .
thanks
animal
On 5/5/24 11:57 AM, Johannes wrote:
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?
Thanks Tony
I learned a new word
to day: spotting drill
I had one in my box, always wounder how it
looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm
hole with.
To morrow I will check my center drills , maybe
I will find one packed in a oily paper, packed in a red box.
/johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole.?
They're roughly the same thing
as a centre drill except wider tip angle
(centre drill is 60 degree).
?
Then again a centre drill would probably
work just fine given you're only
drilling 1mm holes.
?
?
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Hi Mike I have not found my shop yet, it is here somewhere. Home depot is ok, however not for the most I am doing. Mostly I get my stuff from China.? Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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On 5 May 2024, at 16:46, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
????? A bit off topic but Johanes I'm wondering if you have
supply houses where you can get drills & lathe bits in your
p[art of the country . I have one that @ 50 miles from me in Reno
& another in Carson City @ 80 miles from me so it's not out of
the question to make a drive for something if I really need it .
thanks
animal
On 5/5/24 11:57 AM, Johannes wrote:
?
Thanks Tony
I learned a new word
to day: spotting drill
I had one in my box, always wounder how it
looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm
hole with.
To morrow I will check my center drills , maybe
I will find one packed in a oily paper, packed in a red box.
/johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole.?
They're roughly the same thing
as a centre drill except wider tip angle
(centre drill is 60 degree).
?
Then again a centre drill would probably
work just fine given you're only
drilling 1mm holes.
?
?
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Thanks Johannes
animal
On 5/5/24 6:24 PM, Johannes wrote:
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Hi Mike
I have not found my shop yet, it is here somewhere. Home
depot is ok, however not for the most I am doing. Mostly I get
my stuff from China.?
Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
?
????? A bit off topic but Johanes I'm wondering if you
have supply houses where you can get drills & lathe
bits in your p[art of the country . I have one that @ 50
miles from me in Reno & another in Carson City @ 80
miles from me so it's not out of the question to make a
drive for something if I really need it .
thanks
animal
On 5/5/24 11:57 AM, Johannes
wrote:
?
Thanks Tony
I learned a
new word to day: spotting drill
I had one in my box, always wounder how
it looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill
a 10 mm hole with.
To morrow I will check my center drills
, maybe I will find one packed in a oily paper,
packed in a red box.
/johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
Use a spotting drill to make a
pilot hole.? They're roughly the same thing
as a centre drill except wider tip
angle (centre drill is 60 degree).
?
Then again a centre drill would
probably work just fine given you're only
drilling 1mm holes.
?
?
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The PCB drills are these: , or carbide .? ? 3mm & under are cheap because they use these by the millions in electronics manufacturing.? Over 3mm tends to get expensive quite fast. ? Circuit boards are generally about 1mm thick, so these drills are only 5-10mm long.? They’re very sharp, I once drilled a hole thru a coin just by spinning one between my fingers.? Yes, I was bored. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Johannes via groups.io
Sent: Monday, 6 May 2024 11:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole? Hi Mike I have not found my shop yet, it is here somewhere. Home depot is ok, however not for the most I am doing. Mostly I get my stuff from China.? Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
On 5 May 2024, at 16:46, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
? ????? A bit off topic but Johanes I'm wondering if you have supply houses where you can get drills & lathe bits in your p[art of the country . I have one that @ 50 miles from me in Reno & another in Carson City @ 80 miles from me so it's not out of the question to make a drive for something if I really need it . thanks animal On 5/5/24 11:57 AM, Johannes wrote: ? Thanks Tony I learned a new word to day: spotting drill I had one in my box, always wounder how it looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm hole with. To morrow I will check my center drills , maybe I will find one packed in a oily paper, packed in a red box. /johannes Mexico ? ? ? Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole.? They're roughly the same thing as a centre drill except wider tip angle (centre drill is 60 degree). ? Then again a centre drill would probably work just fine given you're only drilling 1mm holes. ? ?
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Most do not know most holes on pc board are layout in inch.
Dave?
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Not to be argumentative, but .156 in (common on pin headers) is 4 mm.
David Robertson.
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Most do not know most holes on pc board are layout in inch.
Dave?
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He’s talking about the older stuff that was laid out on a 2.54mm (1/10”) grid.? DIP packages are that size, as are most headers.? Of course there are 1.27mm headers (1/20”) as well. ? Most newer stuff is metric, like the 2mm headers, your 4mm headers, as well as most SMD stuff.? Or mixed, like 2x7mm LEDs with 1/10” spaced leads. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Robertson via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 7 May 2024 6:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Drill a Hole? Not to be argumentative, but .156 in (common on pin headers) is 4 mm.
Most do not know most holes on pc board are layout in inch.
Dave?
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That was true years ago back when ICs were through-hole devices with 0.1 inch pitch where common. ? Times have changed and now ICs are surface mounted with no holes. ? ?But we do still see connectors with 0.1” pitch in prototype and hobby electronics but mainstream parts are now MUCH smaller.
In fact, I’d say that finding an engineer who knows how to work with inches is hard except for some older ones living in the US. ? I may have been the last of the students who still had to work a very few problems in inches and pounds just so that we’d know how. ? This is at UCLA in the 1980s. ?I’ve heard they have stopped doing this., ?Later i ended up teaching some science classes (in the 2010s, in the US), the textbooks were 100% SI units
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Most do not know most holes on pc board are layout in inch.
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Johannes
davesmith1800