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Rust prevention
|
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:00 AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Practical Machinist has a web article on rust preventatives.? One of the recommendations is something called LPS-3.? Apparently it's slightly waxy and that might do the trick.
From what I've read, it can last for months outdoors and years indoors and is also a lubricant.
May give that a try.
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 1:10 PM, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:00 AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
There are all manner of little "cabinet heaters" available as an alternative to light bulbs, since you only need heat, not light.? Such as this one at Amazon.
Of course, heaters, or incandescent bulbs used as heaters, will eat up some power.? The bulb has the benefit of confirming that it is in fact turned on.
I don't know if this will work for larger things like machines, but an old machinist trick to rustproof the tools in the machinist chest is to put in a piece of camphor.? The camphor continually sublimates (goes from solid to gas directly) and permeates the air inside the chest and puts a very, very thin coating on all of the surfaces of the tools.? I have used this for years and have never had rust issues with tools - in the machinist chest anyway.? For something larger, like a lathe, it may have to be enclosed in something pretty well for that scheme to work.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:00:46 AM PDT, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
How about WD-40 - Its a water displacement formula
- Drives out moisture and quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits
- Acts as a corrosion inhibitor to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements to prevent rust
- Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rust-to-metal bonds and helps release stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts
- Removes grease, grime, gunk, gum, tar, sap, super glue, sticker residue, and other sticky stuff from multiple surfaces
- Lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, pulleys, rollers, chains, and gears
|
I've tried WD-40 in the past, and at least to my observation, it's actually a contributor to rust.
It's great for displacing water and very short-term protection.? Problem is, at least in my experience, is it will clean off any heavier oils that may offer protection, and then eventually evaporates away leaving the item prone to rusting.
I know others swear by it, but for me, it makes things worse.
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 1:17 PM, Ralph Lehotsky <ralphlehotsky@...> wrote:
How about WD-40 - Its a water displacement formula
- Drives out moisture and quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits
- Acts as a corrosion inhibitor to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements to prevent rust
- Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rust-to-metal bonds and helps release stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts
- Removes grease, grime, gunk, gum, tar, sap, super glue, sticker residue, and other sticky stuff from multiple surfaces
- Lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, pulleys, rollers, chains, and gears
|
I¡¯ve seen folks recommend something like this?
|
There are also drawer liners that claim to inhibit rust.
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16 AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
There are all manner of little "cabinet heaters" available as an alternative to light bulbs, since you only need heat, not light.? Such as this one at Amazon.
Of course, heaters, or incandescent bulbs used as heaters, will eat up some power.? The bulb has the benefit of confirming that it is in fact turned on.
I don't know if this will work for larger things like machines, but an old machinist trick to rustproof the tools in the machinist chest is to put in a piece of camphor.? The camphor continually sublimates (goes from solid to gas directly) and permeates the air inside the chest and puts a very, very thin coating on all of the surfaces of the tools.? I have used this for years and have never had rust issues with tools - in the machinist chest anyway.? For something larger, like a lathe, it may have to be enclosed in something pretty well for that scheme to work.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:00:46 AM PDT, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
|
I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
|
Having had my lathe?on the Gulf Coast of Texas I found that a cover over the machine,;an old linen table cloth?is dust free; and a 25 watt lighrbulb?will ward off condensation.? Bill
I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
|
I wonder why a light bulb would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things, but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter" which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:35:38 AM PDT, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...> wrote:
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
|
Another + for the way oil is is stays where ya put it . I had a
problem with things in a walk in closet that was attached to a
bathroom in the early 80's . My mom ( thanks mom ) suggested a
office sized trash can full of charcoal briquets . That seemed to
do the job for me .
animal
On 3/11/24 10:10 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be
better to prevent rust?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious
moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as
further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures,
especially at night so the tools are often still below the
due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is
uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping
them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic
containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating
them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to
hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe
that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to
find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough
with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something
better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is
supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for
firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering
if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan heaters , but the
smallest that Kats makes is 200 watts , But maybe? that a usable
wattage . I did a search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended
up over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these . They
make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya can use one of
the? Katz ones & throttle it down with a Variac if ya just
happen to have one of those laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24 11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I wonder why a light bulb
would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2
hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want protection
around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The
light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular
danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a
heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be
easily available.
Regarding any type of pad
whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the
purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the
aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are
designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off
the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium
heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things,
but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter"
which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a
heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not
"pads".
You can also search the group
archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard
if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just
discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered
heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They
never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You
can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on
Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach
the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly
warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a
cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ?
Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are
flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer
<ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of
people having a cover over the machine and
then a light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as the usual
"oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist"
blog, the light bulb and many other
suggestions are offered.
|
Yes.? There are many "oil pan heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan heaters , but the
smallest that Kats makes is 200 watts , But maybe? that a usable
wattage . I did a search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended
up over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these . They
make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya can use one of
the? Katz ones & throttle it down with a Variac if ya just
happen to have one of those laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24 11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb
would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2
hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want protection
around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The
light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular
danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a
heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be
easily available.
Regarding any type of pad
whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the
purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the
aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are
designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off
the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium
heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things,
but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter"
which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a
heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not
"pads".
You can also search the group
archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard
if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just
discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered
heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They
never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You
can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on
Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach
the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly
warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a
cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ?
Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are
flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer
<ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of
people having a cover over the machine and
then a light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as the usual
"oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist"
blog, the light bulb and many other
suggestions are offered.
|
Though I dont have a serious rust issue here in calif, it does exist. Found that oil is usually the best though I have been using way oil and have found it to be leaving a nice coating on tools. Course it works great on the lathe and mill, no more rust. As to bulbs, when we lived in a small island in the Pacific, we had a small light bulb on in the closets to ward off mildew 24/7. It worked. If done right, there is no danger. Many have covered engines with a blanket and left a bulb underneath the engine to keep things warm enough to start in the cold morning. So you can get all fancy or just use a bulb.
george
?
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:34:13 AM PDT, Bill Williams <bwmsbldr1@...> wrote:
Having had my lathe?on the Gulf Coast of Texas I found that a cover over the machine,;an old linen table cloth?is dust free; and a 25 watt lighrbulb?will ward off condensation.? Bill
I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
|
Perhaps there's a spec for required wattage for this application
?
animal
On 3/11/24 12:23 PM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes.? There are many "oil pan
heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to
use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more
wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of
warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan
heaters , but the smallest that Kats makes is 200
watts , But maybe? that a usable wattage . I did a
search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended up
over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these
. They make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya
can use one of the? Katz ones & throttle it down
with a Variac if ya just happen to have one of those
laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24
11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb would be any
more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours,
or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want
protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged
shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit
ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if
left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating
element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent
USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether
designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater
designed for the purpose that comes in a solid
packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet
heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for
industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the
industrial reservation, you can search for
"terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some
pad oriented things, but also solid choices
including a "ceramic heat emitter" which
conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is
a heating element only.? All sorts of things that
are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived
messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a
fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better
solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile
heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you
buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never
get too hot to touch and are safe for animals
?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd
the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad
should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal
surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ?
I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when
needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an
older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a
light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM,
Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
wrote:
I have most often
heard of people having a cover
over the machine and then a
light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as
the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical
Machinist" blog, the light bulb
and many other suggestions are
offered.
|
Boeshield T9 created by Boeing to prevent oxidation on bare metal.
It's a waxy coating. Spray can or liquid in a bottle.
Bill Dudley
|
I doubt if there is any "spec" as there are SO many variables.? Temperature, humidity, temperature swings, size of machine, volume of area to heat, how tightly or loosely covered, how well otherwise protected (oiled well or not so much), and maybe phase of the moon.
It is my sense in reading comments here and there over the years that a 40 watt incandescent bulb would likely be more than enough.? And perhaps as little as 7 watts (like a Christmas tree bulb) might be sufficient, but I would doubt that.
I also just read a suggestion by somebody using "tubular greenhouse heaters" with the brand name "GoldenRod" but on Amazon I see it marketed as a gun safe heater.? Better yet.? If ever there was another product where you don't want rust, it might be guns.
Here it is at Amazon for 30 bucks.? It is 12 watts.
For any of these things, you could also add a thermostat designed to have a regular AC receptacle in it.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:42:50 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Perhaps there's a spec for required wattage for this application
?
animal
On 3/11/24 12:23 PM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
Yes.? There are many "oil pan
heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to
use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more
wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of
warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan
heaters , but the smallest that Kats makes is 200
watts , But maybe? that a usable wattage . I did a
search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended up
over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these
. They make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya
can use one of the? Katz ones & throttle it down
with a Variac if ya just happen to have one of those
laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24
11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb would be any
more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours,
or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want
protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged
shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit
ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if
left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating
element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent
USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether
designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater
designed for the purpose that comes in a solid
packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet
heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for
industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the
industrial reservation, you can search for
"terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some
pad oriented things, but also solid choices
including a "ceramic heat emitter" which
conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is
a heating element only.? All sorts of things that
are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived
messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a
fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better
solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile
heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you
buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never
get too hot to touch and are safe for animals
?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd
the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad
should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal
surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ?
I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when
needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an
older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a
light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM,
Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
wrote:
I have most often
heard of people having a cover
over the machine and then a
light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as
the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical
Machinist" blog, the light bulb
and many other suggestions are
offered.
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Is your shop outdoors or inside? If inside, I recommend the solution I found: a dehumidifier. I keep the humidity in my basement shop at 60-65%. If it weren't for the dehumidifier it would be up in the 80% range (like the house upstairs).?
Mike Taglieri?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
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chrisser 10:00am? ?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day
I found way oil #4 does good job. When finished brush on #4 and never had problem for 50 years. Dave?
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chrisser
Ralph Lehotsky
BuffaloJohn
davesmith1800