开云体育

Jack Sullivan,

Your email appears to have a problem. Please contact me off list at
arendasj@...

Regards,
Jeff


Topics in this digest:

1. Atlas 6" lathe/Unimat 3 for sale. Where may I try to sell them?
From: "jsullivan10512000" <jsullivan10512000@...>

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 00:23:10 -0000
From: "jsullivan10512000" <jsullivan10512000@...>
Subject: Atlas 6" lathe/Unimat 3 for sale. Where may I try to sell them?

If you can suggest a way I may sell these, email me:
jsullivan10512000@.... Best, Jack




________________________________________________________________________

Jack,

I may have some interest...any pics /accessories/asking price/location....



John





---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.

LMS =

Hi Des,

G'Day,

I keep seeing references to a company called LMS (typically in relation to US citizens buying tooling etc)
Could someone please tell me what LMS is (preferably with a URL to their store) so I can check some of the designs etc? (I'm looking to build my own sissor knurling tool)

The only LMS I know is "London Missionary Society", and the railway (L_______ Scottish Midway??)

Thanks,
Des


________________________________________________________________________
This email has been scanned for viruses by the CITEC Email Anti-Virus service powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive email anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit www.citec.com.au
________________________________________________________________________

If you can suggest a way I may sell these, email me:
jsullivan10512000@.... Best, Jack

Will I be happy with the Homier 7x12 mini lathe? Can I buy one
anywhere in the La. Calif area?

First off allow me to introduce myself. My name is Hank and I am the
proud owner of a new Homier mini-lathe. I've wanted to buy one for a
long time now and finally took the plunge! Very nice machine, nice
features, decent power for the size. I plan on turning a few brass .5
inch bore BP cannon barrels for a couple of cannon homemade scale
wood carriages I own.

Anyway let me contribute to the group with a tip I discovered. When I
bought my mini I rushed home and did…nothing. I was so bogged down
with other stuff I couldn't even open the box fro almost a full week!
Anyway when I finally did it was about 8 pm on a Sunday night. By 10
pm I was ready to clean off the red packing grease and disaster
struck, no mineral spirits, turpentine, or any other solvent anywhere
in my shop, the house or even the neighbor! Whoa is me!

However being a big time shooter and gun owner I thought of a
substitute that worked even better. CLP, a gun cleaner was laying
around in vast quantities in my garage. CLP stands for Cleaner,
Lubricant, Preservative and it does just that. The stuff is used
extensively by the military. I thought why not? I'll try anything at
this point to make my first chips the same evening!

The CLP took the grease and washed it right off along with a little
help from a chip brush. Plus there is the added benefit of the "P"
portion of CLP. I am stuck in a non-climate controlled garage heading
right into a very humid summer. I was dreading the surface rust I'd
have to chase such as occurred on my mill-drill. Well the CLP will
keep the rust at bay! Just brush it on, wipe off the excess and leave
a heavy film. No rust, full time cleaning and lubrication on top of
it all! What more could you ask for. I'm even going to try it as a
cutting fluid sometime in the future!

If anyone would like some sources for CLP please contact me at
iltrng@....

Thanks!
Hank

I was just wondering if other members had encountered a problem with
the failure of what I call the startup safety system. When I first
got the lathe, when starting up the machine, the lower amber light
came on and the machine would not start until the direction switch was
set to the middle (0) position and then turned to the forward
position. Now, I seem to have lost this function, since the amber
light no longer comes on and the machine can be started directly up.
Also, the green light seems to have a lower brightness then it
originally did. My lathe is the Micro-Mark 7X14 and is only about 6
months old. Thanks for any comments that the more experienced users
may have.

Fred Townroe

Good morning Jacko, on the occasion that I'm turning CRS, usually
the type of cutting bit I'm using and the finish that I want dictates
the depth of cut. I use mainly carbide (started with cemented, now
use inserts) and with a new sharp bit, I was able to "hog" (if you
can actually hog on a mini) typically .025 - .035 using tap-magic.
With the inserts, I can go upwards of .045 with groans and chatter.
I've gotten used to making smaller cuts and feel that this is
probably the Gods way of teaching me a little patience... To have
the swarf flying, on occasion just chuck up some aluminium with a
sharp bit and hog out .050 - .060 for a mental holiday...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "doggypaw" <doggypaw@y...>
wrote:

hello.
I am pretty happy with my new 7x12 mini lathe but was wondering
what size cuts others are making on cold rolled steel.
I've gotten used to making .100+ cuts on 2" CRS on the
backgeared South Bends. I still need to get to know this lathe but
it looks like I'll be lucky to do .020 on this mini lathe.

Regards,
Jacko

ScottM015@... wrote:

They make a lubricant called white lightning for bicycle chains it has teflon
in it.

You sure about this? I just read the White lightning FAQ and it said nothing about teflon. It said it was a wax based lube.
Regards
Bob

I checked the label and it does not give ingredients. My bottle is atleast
6 years old and the stuff is still liquid form. Would that indicate if it
were wax or not. I really thought the sales person said it had teflon but
there is nothing that says it. However the properties it describes being
able to shed off dust and dirt and being self cleaning does sound like what
I'm looking for the leadscrew. I may try it out and see what happens. Any
other ideas?

Scott

I may still have some in my garage and I will check the label to confiem
this..

Scott

They make a lubricant called white lightning for bicycle chains it has teflon
in it. The neat thing about this lubricant is that you apply it and in a few
minutes it dries. It is real slippery after it dries. Maybe this would work
for us on the leadscrew? They use this to keep dirt from sticking to the
chain links.

Scott

hello.
I am pretty happy with my new 7x12 mini lathe but was wondering
what size cuts others are making on cold rolled steel.
I've gotten used to making .100+ cuts on 2" CRS on the
backgeared South Bends. I still need to get to know this lathe but
it looks like I'll be lucky to do .020 on this mini lathe.

Regards,
Jacko

Also, the error is in the direction of removing less metal - it's
easy to take another pass with a small advance to final diameter. If
the early cut was too big, no amount of cutting will replace removed
metal.
These lathes have some flex; taking multiple passes without
changing the tool position will take another small cut or 2. If you
carefully measure, you'll probably find the flex, even on light cuts,
is bigger than the theoretical error of the pseudo-inch dials.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@y...>
wrote:

Here's an example, which will hopefully make it more clear why the
small error of the dials is usually insignificant:

Suppose you want to turn a 1/2" diameter rod to .475" in dia. You
start by making a shallow turning pass to get a reference surface.
Let's say you measure it with your dial caliper and it is
now .497" dia. so you need to remove .497-.475" or
.022. So you will need to advance the cross feed by
11 divisions (reducing the radius by .011 will reduce
the dia by .022). To be safe, you advance by 9
divisions, then stop and check the diameter again.
Let's say it is now .477. For your final finishing
pass you advance the cross feed by 1 division reducing the diamer
by .002 to .475. The error of the dial for this small adjustment is
negligible - less, in fact, than the inherent
precision of the lathe.

The only time the error would be significant is if you advance the
dials by a full turn or more without rechecking the diameter by
measuring.

Suppose you needed to remove, say .240 and counted off 3 full
turns of the dial (.120) without taking another
measurement. Since the error for each full turn of the
dial is .040 - .03937 = .00063, the total error would
be .00189 or nearly 2 thousandths. In
practice, as you approach your desired diameter, you
would stop the lathe and measure the actual diameter,
then turn the dial by just a few divisions as needed to
reach the final diameter. With careful technique you should be able
to get the final diameter accurate to .001".


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...>

wrote:

Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews.
The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is
true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch
with the calibrated wheels having 40 divisions. The
margin of error is very small (each rotation of the
handwheel is actually .03937 inches instead of .04000
inches and a single division is thus .000984 inches
rather than .00100 inches). Since you will no doubt
measure your work with "inch" measuring tools, the
error becomes negligible.

Frank Hoose



--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come
from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless
the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper
is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther
than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these

machines. I am
currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or

7xX. Wonder if
anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to

hear a
compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true

inch lead
screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts

on this will be
much

appreciated.

Ben

------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.

I converted my mini mill to belt drive, eliminating the nylon gears,
and converted "Z" axis rack control to acme screw control, for more
precise operation. Have all parts from conversions, NEW PARTS,
GUARANTEED, to sell. What is internet site best to advertise/sell
them. gears are same as on mini lathe. email me
jsullivan1051@.... Best, Jack

Here's an example, which will hopefully make it more clear why the
small error of the dials is usually insignificant:

Suppose you want to turn a 1/2" diameter rod to .475" in dia. You
start by making a shallow turning pass to get a reference surface.
Let's say you measure it with your dial caliper and it is
now .497" dia. so you need to remove .497-.475" or
.022. So you will need to advance the cross feed by
11 divisions (reducing the radius by .011 will reduce
the dia by .022). To be safe, you advance by 9
divisions, then stop and check the diameter again.
Let's say it is now .477. For your final finishing
pass you advance the cross feed by 1 division reducing the diamer
by .002 to .475. The error of the dial for this small adjustment is
negligible - less, in fact, than the inherent
precision of the lathe.

The only time the error would be significant is if you advance the
dials by a full turn or more without rechecking the diameter by
measuring.

Suppose you needed to remove, say .240 and counted off 3 full
turns of the dial (.120) without taking another
measurement. Since the error for each full turn of the
dial is .040 - .03937 = .00063, the total error would
be .00189 or nearly 2 thousandths. In
practice, as you approach your desired diameter, you
would stop the lathe and measure the actual diameter,
then turn the dial by just a few divisions as needed to
reach the final diameter. With careful technique you should be able
to get the final diameter accurate to .001".

hello.

Was just cleaning and lubing a new 7x12 as per the
mini-lathe.com site. In that site, they use lithium grease on the
dovetails and lead screws.

Isn't this a bad idea? Wont the chips stick? What lube do you
all recomend?

Thanks for any info.

jacko

Try www.mcmaster.com