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That can be prevented by not wearing shorts. :)

As to the original poster, doesn't that first piece off your machine make you feel good?

Dave


Clint D wrote:

It is sort of like going off of the high diving board for the first time
but you acclimate with remarkable ease!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Kent

Them metal splinters, hehe! just don't get em in your shorts!

Clint

Well folks, I fired up my lathe for the first time. I started out
by squaring the ends of on a scrap piece of brass, and then cutting
two small grooves on one end. Then I used the center bore, and
place a small hole in the end. My son thought I was making a
shotgun shell. At least it had SOME semilence (not sure if this is
a word) to something real. I did however discover something that
sucks about this whole thing, metal splinters ;-)

I have just ordered a face plate, a 4 jaw chuck, and a few other
items. Once the faceplate comes I can try squaring up the flywheel
for my Stuart D10, and the 4 jaw will allow me to start getting the
base ready.

I'll keep you all posted.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., broken003@j... wrote:

What would be the best way to determine if a location was acceptable
for a shop. I plan to setup my shop in an old basement, I am
wondering if it might be too humid and cause corrosion of my tools.
Is there any way I could determine if things will be OK?

It may not be the best, but an easy way to test your location is to
hang a piece of clean steel in it for a few days. If it rusts, just
repeat the test using simple rustproofing methods - oil or grease
first, then as exotic as you may want to use _all_the_time_ on your
machines and other tools.
The results of the test with "clean" steel will depend on just *how*
clean you get it. If it is really clean, it will probably start to
rust in minutes in any but the driest air. See the reports on the
many derusting methods - they all emphasize that you must immediately
oil the part to prevent rust.
Just laying the test piece on a concrete floor almost guarantees
that it will rust. Hang it up near bench height, out of the way of
anyone who might come into painful contact with it...

There are many other considerations than just how rust-susceptible
it is. Is there sufficient electrical power available? How about
lighting? Accessability? Etc... Few if any shops are in perfect
locations, but we use what we have available, anyway.

Hope some of that helps.

RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Kent Killam" <soberman@a...>
wrote: Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most

appreciated.

Kent you got a goldmine in the 150 watt lightbulb idea. cover your
equiptment with a tarp. put a trouble light under but not touching the
tarp (tent it). Viola! rust resistant environment.

Kurt.

Would it be reliably centered in a 4 jaw scroll chuck? A little
playing with drafting templates makes me wonder about the centering.
(It's possible to grab a square piece in a 3 jaw scroll chuck; it's
expedient for facing, but, not centered.)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "david" <davidalan@l...> wrote:

there is one point that will allow you to fit a hexagonal piece in

a 4 jaw,

just turn it round till all jaws grip it equally


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers

Kent, it isn't just the temperature but the humidity and how the
temperature swings through a day. If you were at the south pole then
things wouldn't rust even though they were very cold. This is because the
humidity is so low that there is almost no moisture in the air to
condense on the metal. Out there on the cape you will see a lot of
humidity as well as droplets of salt water in the air. Worst case! If you
have warm, moist, foggy air coming in contact with cold bare metal you
will get corrosion. You need to keep the metal above the dew point of the
air and filter out any of the salty aerosol off the ocean. Ultimately
this means an enclosed shop, controlled and filtered air going through
it, and (probably) radiant heating of the shop and it's contents
directly! Otherwise take a cue from the Brits and slather grease over
everything capable of rusting and clean off A/R! EECH!!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

What would be the best way to determine if a location was acceptable for a shop. I plan to setup my shop in an old basement, I am wondering if it might be too humid and cause corrosion of my tools. Is there any way I could determine if things will be OK?


Thanks
Mark


Please note: message attached

there is one point that will allow you to fit a hexagonal piece in a 4 jaw,
just turn it round till all jaws grip it equally


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers

Good Morning Kent:

Best bet against the rust issue is to keep the machines well oiled - I use Mobil 1 on all exposed parts, and to cover your machines when not in use. If you intend on working during the colder months, either an electric heater or a kerosene heater - which is what I use to heat my 12 X 30' garage is the way to go. I keep my machines covered with ordinary bath towels after giving them a generous application of the Mobil 1. I have not seen any sign of rust or oxidation in the 2 years of ownership.

Best regards,

Nick

Kent Killam <soberman@...> wrote:
I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape
Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has
electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe
and a few other tools to build my steam engines.

This past week in conversation, condensation came up, someone told
me I might have problems when it gets cold keeping my machines from
rusting. Anyone have any experiance keeping equipment in an
unheated area during the cold months? And here I was, thoinking I
have a good thing going. Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most
appreciated.

Thanks for any & all feedback.

Kent



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If you don't heat the place you will have problems. I have my shop in a cellar, I have problems with humidity in the summer. Same basic issue.

I would suggest insulation and a modest amount of heat. You won't need a lot to prevent rust. On the other hand if you expect to make use of the tools you will need quite a bit of heat. Lets face it, having your tools to cold to operate for 8 months out of the year, pretty much makes them useless even if they are rust free. Also the cold will impact a precision machine more than it will say a wood working machine, so you loose and the machine looses.

If you go to woodcrafters, they have a spray on rust preventative that may be usefull for thing you don't want to keep oiled. This keeps the table top of my saw rust free. Yes I know woodcrafters supports a different craft, but some of us have multiple interests. What ever you do do not us WD 40 as it will leave a film that you will not like on your machines. A can of sprayon oil can help. You might even consider paint, lets face it some of the paint jobs on the imported hardware leaves alot to be desired. A good quality paint job will protect those things that should have a permanent finish anyways.

Stainless steel is another option. That is make or purchase as much stainless tooling and fixturing as possible or use aluminum. Some materials rust faster than others, for example band saw blades, pay special attention to them.

Dave


Kent Killam wrote:

The trick I learned is to never clean the cutting oil (I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil) off the lathe. I smear it around when I brush off the chips. Then, I keep the lathe covered with the brown cardboard box that it arrived in. The vapor pressure of all that oil creates an oily "mist" or atmosphere inside the box. Whenever I lift off the box, I can small it. It has been that way in my humid garage for 16 months and I have zero rust.

- Charlie

All you really need is a good roof and just enough heat to raise the internal temperature above ambient for most moist areas. We use small heaters or 150 watt lights to preserve electrical equipment in the moist Ohio Valley when we're putting together power plants. I'm not familiar with what sort of problems being close to the ocean might create.
Mike Wood, in Cincinnati, where, if we didn't get frost, we would live in a rain forest.

Kent Killam wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Kent Killam" <soberman@a...>
wrote:

I might have problems when it gets cold keeping my machines from
rusting.

Yes you are...
I use both Mil-Spec CLP slathered all over exposed surfaces as well
as LPS #3. Also, if you can do it and afford it insulate and heat the
shed.

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape
Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has
electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe
and a few other tools to build my steam engines.

This past week in conversation, condensation came up, someone told
me I might have problems when it gets cold keeping my machines from
rusting. Anyone have any experiance keeping equipment in an
unheated area during the cold months? And here I was, thoinking I
have a good thing going. Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most
appreciated.

Thanks for any & all feedback.

Kent

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape
Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has
electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe
and a few other tools to build my steam engines.

This past week in conversation, condensation came up, someone told
me I might have problems when it gets cold keeping my machines from
rusting. Anyone have any experiance keeping equipment in an
unheated area during the cold months? And here I was, thoinking I
have a good thing going. Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most
appreciated.

Thanks for any & all feedback.

Kent

I have the one from LMS. It works well. Be sure to order the adapter plate and studs for it. You'll see those items in a reminder at the bottom of the chuck page. Nice thing about LMS is that Chris is always there for you if you have an issue. I buy things from HF, but only from the retail store. There's no one there to answer any technical questions.

- Charlie Starks

Sold, 4"-4 Jaw independent must be the way to go. Most of what I am
turning is round stock up to 10 inches long. And I need it as tight
and accurate as possible. I think when I'm ready to step up to a 5" I
will be ready to step up to a larger lathe.
Thanks for the help all,
Craig
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

4 jaw scroll chucks are of limited use. They can hold round,
square & octagonal stock; the 3 jaw can hold round & hexagonal
stock. Since most common threaded fasteners are hexagonal or have
hex heads, the 3 jaw scroll is handiest.
For the occasional square piece, dead-accurate round work,

offset

(camshaft/crankshaft looking stuff) & any other odd pieces, the 4-

jaw

independent is the way to go. 4-jaw scroll chucks are usually only
used by shops that turn lots of round sections on square pieces;

why

HF is offering them is a mystery to me!

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kraken_03" <kraken_03@y...>
wrote:

Thanks Frank and Jerry,
The HF 4"-4 Jaw chuck I was refering to P/N# 47461 for 59.99 self
centering. Has anyone used that one? I thought about the 5" and

read

up on it on mini-lathe.com. Still thinking about it. If you don't
want to go through the hasel of making a faceplate. Does anyone

sell

a faceplate for the 5"? Our could the LMS 6.25 Faceplate be

modified

our just used for the 5" chuck?
Thanks again,
Craig


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...>

wrote:

The 3-jaw chuck is more convenient for most work due
to the time savings of its self-centering feature. The
4 jaw is an almost essential accessory for precise
centering, off-center work and holding odd shapes, but
takes more time to set up the work.

Frank Hoose


--- Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

I bought the 5 inch 3 jawed chuck for my HF
7 x 10 and found it to
be extremely useful. I do a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck and
the 3 inch 3 jaw that
came with the lathe. The 5 inch works great for me.
I paid $60.00 and
shipping for it from Enco.

Jerry

At 08:45 AM 6/26/2003, you wrote:

I am looking to purchase a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck for

my Homier. LMS has

one for 69.00 and it is a independently adj., HF

has one for 59.00

self centering. Any suggestions? I've already

bought the adapter

plate from LMS. Just looking for the best chuck to

put on it.


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Here's a link to the Reference section of the
mini-lathe.com links page. There are many useful links
there, including the ones to the Army manuals.



Frank Hoose


--- Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...> wrote:

Roy,
Could you point the way to those government
publications? It may
help us all.

Jerry

At 11:58 PM 6/25/2003, you wrote:

The round bits are nice in shop-made boring

bars; easier to make a

round hole than a square hole (ease of manufacture

is offset by

difficulty of aligning tool.)
On the 7x10 group, there are links to

downloadable USN & USAR

training manuals and older, public domain texts.

Roy

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