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Re: wood
MERTON B BAKER
One more note on this. In the old days, the linseed oil was indeed boiled,
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and the gummy stuff which takes forever to oxidize would rise to the top & be skimmed off. the resulting oil dried faster. Now, as was mentioned the linseed is "compound boiled" which mean oxidizing agents have been added the more, the quicker. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Roy Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:11 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: wood Most of the commercial "Oil" finishes are actually "Long Varnishes", composed of (roughly) equal parts of solvent, varnish & the named oil. If they don't claim tung oil, they use linseed oil. I used to use Watco Danish Oil for most things, until it became unavailable a few years ago. I started using a home made mixture publicized by Sam Maloof, which is the formula I described. If you use linseed oil, it should be the "boiled" variety, which isn't actually boiled; it's raw linseed oil with a drying agent added. (The nomenclature of finishing materials is mostly tradition, untouched by actual chemistry!) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., <ckinzer@...> wrote: superb results. oil (perhaps some tung oil), and apparantly some varnish. application like this seals it more and increases the sheen. little gummy or solid and is hard to rub off. needs to be re-applied. you need to seal it. Try to lay on a uniform coat, either wait for it to cure or hit it with accelerator, then sand & polish. Alternatively, you can just polish the wood directly, although if anyone handling it has been sensitized they will likely react to it.
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Re: wood
MERTON B BAKER
I finish gun stocks with Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil", which is a compounded
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Linseed oil finish. I have also used "Lin Speed" which is another, different one. Both give very nice results, seal the surface and are easily repaired if scratched. Tru oil dries much faster than Linspeed, but both are applied with the fingers, allowed to dry and then rubbed off with 0000 steel wool. the more applications, the better the surface fill, and the shinier the finish. If you like a dull finish, the shine can be removed with the steel wool. Apologies if this is off topic. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Roy Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:11 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: wood Most of the commercial "Oil" finishes are actually "Long Varnishes", composed of (roughly) equal parts of solvent, varnish & the named oil. If they don't claim tung oil, they use linseed oil. I used to use Watco Danish Oil for most things, until it became unavailable a few years ago. I started using a home made mixture publicized by Sam Maloof, which is the formula I described. If you use linseed oil, it should be the "boiled" variety, which isn't actually boiled; it's raw linseed oil with a drying agent added. (The nomenclature of finishing materials is mostly tradition, untouched by actual chemistry!) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., <ckinzer@...> wrote: superb results. oil (perhaps some tung oil), and apparantly some varnish. application like this seals it more and increases the sheen. little gummy or solid and is hard to rub off. needs to be re-applied. you need to seal it. Try to lay on a uniform coat, either wait for it to cure or hit it with accelerator, then sand & polish. Alternatively, you can just polish the wood directly, although if anyone handling it has been sensitized they will likely react to it.
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Re: Need a 20% harbor freight coupon if you got one,...thanks
Bookmark this site:
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Wilfred Hoafat" <wrhoafat@...> wrote:
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Knurling again
trevor_rymell
Am I right in thinking that you do not use feed unless you need a knurl that's wider than the knurling wheel?
I've grown up with the idea that even when knurling a narrow pattern ie no wider than the knurl itself, the tool can be fed backwards and forwards to aid the cutting. Maybe this is incorrect although it doesn't seem to have caused me too much trouble in the past with the medium diamond knurls I have. Thank again Trevor |
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Re: Quick Change Tool Post Set
MERTON B BAKER
I have an Armstrong brand piston/dovetail one on my 12x36, and all my others
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use the ones I make & used to sell. there are others on the market, from what I read just as good, cheaper, and you get more tool holders. The info on "Mert's Toolpost" are in the files, I think. If not in the 7x12 group, they'll be in the 7x10 one. There are a lot of 'em in use, and you can make your own with my blessing & assistance; many have. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of ronzer Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 6:44 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Quick Change Tool Post Set Can somebody till me what is a good Quick Change Tool Post Set?? ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Least expensive place to buy round stock?
Jerome Kimberlin
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOn 10/24/2011 7:00 PM, Web Williams wrote:> C360 brass would be better, > but none of us (there are three of us each building the same project) > are prepared to spend $700.00 or more on the material. That's why we > all agreed to use steel. Ever think about? making a pattern and having it cast?? I had a friend that collected old brass plumbing fixtures and melted them down for the brass to cast things.? Or you could make a pattern and core and send them up to the Cattail foundry in PA for casting in iron. A scrap yard is your only hope of getting anything cheap.? Metal Supermarkets is way more expensive than Speedy and they are about 267 for a foot of 7" plus shipping.? Shipping will have to go via truck too, not UPS. JerryK |
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Re: Least expensive place to buy round stock?
mattdbartlett
This does not directly answer your question, but it's related. You may take a look at ASTM A36 rather than 1018. It is basically the same alloy, but it is hot rolled. Tends to have fewer internal stresses, and cheaper to boot.
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As far as location, I think others have suggested MetalSupermarkets. You migh find what you need in the "cutoff" section, but that is a pretty big piece of scrap. They probably have it new, but the price may not be that different from your original number; probably have to call and ask. -Matt --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Web Williams <wy3xinsc@...> wrote:
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Re: Quick Change Tool Post Set
mattdbartlett
I also have the A2Z. It has worked well, but at times I have wished I had gone for a different style holder. My main complaint is that the piston design of the A2Z only supports the toolholder in the middle. I have found that it can flex when taking cuts that tend to "grab" (like parting or form cuts). Could be I just push my tools too hard.
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-Matt --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bob and Terrie" <rmalsbury@...> wrote:
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
Good point Jerry. I see a lot of guys on forums trying to keep an mini mill or mini lathe to .0001" or even .001" I just don't know that the hobbyist needs that tight of tolerance. Computer software seems to compensate for a lot of it anyway, as long as you know how to use it. From: Jerry Durand To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 10:18 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
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oops, hit send too soon.
In theory it should be constant over the length of the leadscrew. If you use a tight-fitting acetal nut then that is sort of anti-backlash in that it doesn't really have any lash at all. But...the leadscrew may not be accurate over its length. High accuracy lead screws cost $$$$ and in most cases aren't needed. If you're building stuff that needs to be super accurate, then you need to spend a LOT of money to get there. But, a VERY common mistake is thinking you need more accuracy than you do. This is where understanding the engineering comes into play. If you need a sleeve to fit a shaft perfectly, don't try to make both super accurate. Machine one to have a good, consistent surface and then machine the other one a little at a time until you get the fit you want. This is where lapping comes in too. If you're say making high end automobile engines, you build a batch of blocks and then measure the cylinders. You build a batch of pistons and measure them. Look at your data and select the pistons that best fit in each cylinder. Repeat on the next engine. MUCH cheaper than trying to make them all +/- 0.0000000001 inch. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
Good point Jerry. I see a lot of guys on forums trying to keep an mini mill or mini lathe to .0001" or even .001" I just don't know that the hobbyist needs that tight of tolerance. Computer software seems to compensate for a lot of it anyway, as long as you know how to use it. From: Jerry Durand To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 10:18 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
?
oops, hit send too soon.
In theory it should be constant over the length of the leadscrew. If you use a tight-fitting acetal nut then that is sort of anti-backlash in that it doesn't really have any lash at all. But...the leadscrew may not be accurate over its length. High accuracy lead screws cost $$$$ and in most cases aren't needed. If you're building stuff that needs to be super accurate, then you need to spend a LOT of money to get there. But, a VERY common mistake is thinking you need more accuracy than you do. This is where understanding the engineering comes into play. If you need a sleeve to fit a shaft perfectly, don't try to make both super accurate. Machine one to have a good, consistent surface and then machine the other one a little at a time until you get the fit you want. This is where lapping comes in too. If you're say making high end automobile engines, you build a batch of blocks and then measure the cylinders. You build a batch of pistons and measure them. Look at your data and select the pistons that best fit in each cylinder. Repeat on the next engine. MUCH cheaper than trying to make them all +/- 0.0000000001 inch. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
Jerry Durand
On 10/24/2011 09:11 PM, Jerry Durand wrote:
oops, hit send too soon. In theory it should be constant over the length of the leadscrew. If you use a tight-fitting acetal nut then that is sort of anti-backlash in that it doesn't really have any lash at all. But...the leadscrew may not be accurate over its length. High accuracy lead screws cost $$$$ and in most cases aren't needed. If you're building stuff that needs to be super accurate, then you need to spend a LOT of money to get there. But, a VERY common mistake is thinking you need more accuracy than you do. This is where understanding the engineering comes into play. If you need a sleeve to fit a shaft perfectly, don't try to make both super accurate. Machine one to have a good, consistent surface and then machine the other one a little at a time until you get the fit you want. This is where lapping comes in too. If you're say making high end automobile engines, you build a batch of blocks and then measure the cylinders. You build a batch of pistons and measure them. Look at your data and select the pistons that best fit in each cylinder. Repeat on the next engine. MUCH cheaper than trying to make them all +/- 0.0000000001 inch. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
John lindo
Please check out Axminster The DRO's are fitted to the compound and cross slides.Very easy fitting everything supplied. Excellent value for money. Regards John From: Jerry Durand To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 5:42 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
?
I doubt any standard zero backlash nuts will fit a stock machine that
wasn't designed for them, you'd probably have to make your own. That's cheaper anyway. Simple version, two nuts on shaft with space between them and a strong spring in that space. One is fixed to object to be moved, the other is held in a manner that it can't turn but can move back and forth as needed. On 10/24/2011 08:29 PM, nissan.370z wrote: > But I can purchase all the parts for the Grizzly 7x12 to have "zero" backlash for the CNC? > > can you swap out any parts to make it almost zero backlash as it sits for manual use? If so where do I get them? > > Thanks for the info. > -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
Jerry Durand
On 10/24/2011 08:51 PM, nissan.370z wrote:
Okie Dokie. Thanks. Will be a project someday.On my low priority to-do list is adding anti-backlash to both my manual mill and the lathe. So far I've been using the manual mill since the mid 1990's and haven't had a big problem yet..except, climb milling will tend to pull the work in the backlash direction and bite off a bigger chunk than I planned, so I can't do climb milling there. On my CNC pretty much every thing is done climb. With the lathe I automatically think of doing everything from one direction so it doesn't matter. You could do that with CNC too if you were careful in setting it up. The backlash that you can program into the CNC to account for, will that be constant? Like will my lathe have the same backlash no matter what (without adjustment/mos of course) position it is in?-- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
nissan.370z
Okie Dokie. Thanks. Will be a project someday.
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The backlash that you can program into the CNC to account for, will that be constant? Like will my lathe have the same backlash no matter what (without adjustment/mos of course) position it is in? --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
nissan.370z
Nice! Thanks for the links. Meant to sign up over on that forum, will do so finally. Seen it before just never checked it out to see what all was on there yet. Will now though.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank <usarmyfly@...> wrote:
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Re: Need a 20% harbor freight coupon if you got one,...thanks
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI received a HF brochure/email that sys 20% off on online orders. I agree just call them mention today¡¯s brochure.? I did not notice a code in the email, wilfred ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Frank
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 11:16 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Need a 20% harbor freight coupon if you got one,...thanks ? ? I would try calling if you are really interested. I called when I ordered my mill and got a discount and didn't pay the $89 shipping or what ever the price was when ordering online. ? From: nissan.370z <ebandit@...> ? I tried paper coupon barcodes before and none have ever worked as of yet. The 20% codes must not work for the 8x12 for some reason. calling them is all you can do I guess. The 3 codes below, they all say they are not valid when tried with the lathe in the cart and nothing else. Tried with CAP and lowercase both. ? |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
Jerry Durand
I doubt any standard zero backlash nuts will fit a stock machine that
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wasn't designed for them, you'd probably have to make your own. That's cheaper anyway. Simple version, two nuts on shaft with space between them and a strong spring in that space. One is fixed to object to be moved, the other is held in a manner that it can't turn but can move back and forth as needed. On 10/24/2011 08:29 PM, nissan.370z wrote:
But I can purchase all the parts for the Grizzly 7x12 to have "zero" backlash for the CNC? --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
This is one of my favorite more recent clean compact builds on a . From: nissan.370z To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:19 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
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When you CNC, what about backlash? Is anything used converting to CNC make that go away? cause the CNC cannot have any backlash I wouldnt think unless it had its on "DRO" to know where it is.
I am curious about just how affordable is it to piece together my own CNC kit and convert my 7x12. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "usarmyfly" wrote: > > They seem to mess up when I change directions a couple times. Just CNC then you don't need them! Hopefully I will some day. Until then I make due. > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" wrote: > > > > Crap, seems they are buggy. Dag-gone-it! May have to make one then. > > > |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
My favorite place to go for all mini things cnc is . Plenty of ideas flying around there. From: nissan.370z To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 9:19 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
?
When you CNC, what about backlash? Is anything used converting to CNC make that go away? cause the CNC cannot have any backlash I wouldnt think unless it had its on "DRO" to know where it is.
I am curious about just how affordable is it to piece together my own CNC kit and convert my 7x12. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "usarmyfly" wrote: > > They seem to mess up when I change directions a couple times. Just CNC then you don't need them! Hopefully I will some day. Until then I make due. > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" wrote: > > > > Crap, seems they are buggy. Dag-gone-it! May have to make one then. > > > |
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Re: Cheap $35 Remote DRO units, any opinion on these?
nissan.370z
But I can purchase all the parts for the Grizzly 7x12 to have "zero" backlash for the CNC?
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can you swap out any parts to make it almost zero backlash as it sits for manual use? If so where do I get them? Thanks for the info. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
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