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Tons of thanks! I have no access to the lathe. Sick, bored and entertaining useless musings... but it helps. 7x12minilathe@...> wrote:

Better links - silly Windows: http://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/lathe-spindle.pdf http://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/lathe-spindle.DWG

This is from Drew's 3D model of the HF: http://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3\lathe-spindle.pdf http://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3\lathe-spindle.DWG you may have to right-click Save As on the dwg

On a "7x12", it's 14". The "12" is measured from the chuck face. All the Chinese minis except the "7x10" are so measured, AFIK. The Ten is center-to-center. At least, mine is. Mert

Talk about gears, anyone happen to know the between centers distance from spindle to aux shaft?

Good news. The old dried grease was softened by spraying WD40 into the joint on both sides of the pot metal casting so i could pull out the shaft and gear. On inspection i found the previous owner had

Not true. The part about throwing almost anything into the mix. There are official published formulas for denaturing ethyl alcohol. Each is intended to make the stew undrinkable (and difficult to

Did I mention "precaution handling"? I said it may work differently, might just mean today's batch corrodes metal or removes a finish that yesterday's batch didn't. As it's already flammable I doubt

Yes, but it works great for drilling blind holes!! and they burn it in cars, even in California...... We deal with many things that need precaution handling (use outdoors, don't drink it, don't

Be aware that denatured alcohol is drinking alcohol (ethanol) mixed with "something" to make it denatured (undrinkable). For the "something" I've seen gasoline, wood alcohol, and other people have

Many shellacs and varnishes use denatured alcohol as a carrier and that will also soften them later for removal. It's thin, cheap and available in the paint aisle at the store. It is also, as the

Just what i was thinking Warren. I have some WD40 on it now. If that doesn't do i will visit Napa Auto Parts and see if they have some brand of penetrating oil to put on it. Pete McLaughlin

Soak it down in a penetrating solution....if the grease varnished, a couple of days in that may well get it loose with no damage, pounding, heat issues. Warren L [7x12minilathe] wrote:

any way to heat the mechanism up and break the gears free to turn before trying to disassemble? Ralph

thanks John Thats what i needed to know. It looks like the original grease dried in the die cast cover end of the shaft and glued the shaft and the 45 tooth gear so they could not turn. I will gently

Hi Pete, I made the dog clutch in 2009 so don't recall the details. I do know it wasn't difficult to remove and replace that shaft without removing the die cast cover on the end of the machine.

Hi John Then the end of shaft #26 is bearing in the potmetal? Thanks Pete

last time I tried to figure it out, they were fighting over with or without a chuck.....I gave up. I'm pretty sure it was sold as a 14, but I never ran out of room, so I didnt worry about it too much.

Pete, The shaft for the dog clutch is one piece, no central shaft. I did a crude sketch which can be interpreted as showing a shaft but the drawing shows the part more clearly, see:

Hi Warren, You most likely know this, but I will say it anyway for the benefit of those that might not. Set your tailstock as far to the right as it will go and still be able to clamp up on the bed.