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The tailstock horizontal position is supposed to be a user adjustment. There's no reason to suspect any factory adjustment survived shipping. IIRC, mini-lathe.com has a link to Jose Rodriquez's site;

<Snip> Someone else reported this, some time ago. He finally found that the dovetail on the gib side had a very large radius, and the gib had a sharp corner that didn't fit into the dovetail. He

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard" <phrh@w...> wrote: <Snip> > 1. The compound slide (bottom slide)the one which rotates, on my > ch250 is aluminum as is the cross slide ( the part which

I'm also on the 7x10 minilathe group and I think many of those folks would recommend 1) lap the gibs flat - one guy mentioned sandpaper with finer and finer grits taped to a sheet of glass 2) consider

Robert, Lets see, a 5 inch chuck, a better tool post. I have those tiny tools, the 1/4 inch type, a set of indexable tools and I took large tools and ground them to fit. They may help you on some

Has anyone ever converted the gears.exe program to a Macintosh program? I'd sure like to have this handy program running at my home computer. Larry New Orleans

I am planning on buying a Speedway lathe. This will be my first one. I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on items that I will need to purchase with my lathe to start me off? Thank

I have been using a nice green painted Asian CH-250A 1995 model 7x10 minilathe made in Taiwan for 4 years or so. No controller problems at all so far. The controller uses SCR's (5 of them!) and the

Hi all, my name is Bill Holland. I am new to machining, and I bought the 7x14 lathe not too long ago. I have since been making parts on it, and have started a 1" scale live steam locomotive on it. I

Clay, Here's a late reply, but may be useful. See message 10157 in yahoo group "9x20lathe" on a way to make a disk, fully finished on all sides/edges. If you're not a member, email me and I can send

Rich, Frank, Roy, et al; All points presented are excellent. Another thing I like about the rigid mounting is improved stability during various operations, expecially using the tailstock. The little

Thanks to all for the many suggestions. Clay <rralbers@j...> wrote: chuck use paper you possibly

Thanks for the pointer, I'll go search over there (or just take your word for the consensus :-). I have stopped email from that group, I just could not keep up, unfortunately I'm also losing the good

Leveling is an important factor for large industrial lathes, but I don't think it is at all critical for very small lathes. I have never made any attempt to level mine and it works just fine. What is

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than 0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10 group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting within

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is something used in the woodworking world. * REPLY SEPARATOR * -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard

Rich, Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been online in a few days. It depends on the absolute flatness of the bench and the original quality of the lathe feet. The rubber feet are more resilent than

You can simply retap the holes in the mounting feet of the lathe to 1/4-20. Here are some tips: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Setup/setup.htm#Bench_Mounting Frank Hoose

wrote: If the disk has any holes in it, you can use them to mount it to a faceplate. If there is one central hole (like a washer), you can use a drawbar (long bolt) to hold it to the spindle nose -

A piece of packing long enough to let the work protrude from the jaws, bearing against the chuck face. Things like faced off tubing scraps or hardwood work for lengthwise alignment, depending on