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Any machine tool needs to be adjusted when installed. The MM might be closer to working out of the box but I would still expect something to get tweaked in shipping. The heavier the machine, the more

Hi Bill, I have read what others have said and most of it is good advice. I had the same problem with my MM 7x16. The best thing I have done is to spring for a new pair of tapered roller bearings for

Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their catalog for a couple of years. Mert

Probably, Bill. The reason the Wright brothers could fly their first powered airplane was that, unlike all the other would-be inventors, they were both experienced pilots, with many hours in the air

I've been looking for a mini lathe for a while. I put a wanted add on a local online site. I had a guy say he has the lathe in the subject line. Said he bought it about 8 years ago and hasn't used it

Simon thanks. I've sent Sarah a private e mail. Good luck with your new venture. Take care John L Spain

Copper based alloys like brass and bronze require different tool bit geometry than tooling for other metals and plastics. In short, most materials - at least on these small lathes - will like some

my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not finished adj with shims. george ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013

I have very little experience with brass, but isn't it famous for chatter if the cutting tool doesn't have NO top rake? In other words, the top of the cutting tool should be completely flat

Try changing cutting bits? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 9:11 PM To:

thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I

Hi Bill, The problem began when you got into a taper? Hmmm. Well, I wouldn't go straight for the gibs. I'd look at the tool geometry, that it's set on the centerline, your cutting speed and the depth

Look at the underside of the bed; there are sometimes globs of paint that have to be removed to provide a clean path for the slide plates to travel. If that's not a problem, the easy way to adjust the

Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing depending on who set them at the factory. Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them. If when you lift up on the

I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs

yea.. machspace wrote:

Hello Bill, The following on adjusting the carriage gibs assumes that you are using a properly sharpened tool bit, all the angles are correct, it is set to the proper height, and that the gibs on the

On my chatter issue the instructions refer to 1 mil gap between ways and the saddle is this .001 of an inch? Bill

Hi all I am a newbie , I am having difficulty with chatter even on light cuts. I am trying the tuning method explained in mini-lathe .com. I got a micro mark 7x16 lathe I have done a few light turning

Opps, I guess you did say in the subject line that you are in Yellowknife, Canada. My mistake. Michael - USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16