开云体育

Most of the out of warranty problems are with the speed controls; it's usually just a matter of replacing the power MOSFETs, there are some exceptions. Some of the play in the handwheels is inherent

1. Yes, no problem if you listen to the machine to figure out a reasonable depth of cut. 2. No different than on any other engine lathe; the change gears for threading have to be installed manually -

No x 3! Drill rod comes in 3 common types; water, air & oil hardening. They're all basically high carbon steel with various other alloying elements that affect hardening & toughness. Here are some

You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine

Yes, I see it's gone now. But there are still lots of many different parts 3D modeled. There is a lot of different CNC models, routers, lathes, mills, etc. Some of the brackets/motors/parts are

See if these look like what you have: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam4/cross_screw_mount.pdf DWG - ACAD2000: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam4/cross_screw_mount.DWG You can get the 3D models from

Hi Stefan, bit of a misunderstanding there! That looks to be exactly the same as the one on my metric lathe. That has the "universal" 0.025mm/0.001" marking as well What dimensions is it you are

I think a taper turning attachment is the only practicable way, short of CNC, of getting the threading tool to follow the taper of the workpiece. I think the taper angle is 1/16" per inch measured

sorry friends, I was talking about this part http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1386&category=5

CRS is just low carbon steel. Drill rod is a hi carbon hardenable alloy some intended to quench in water, some in oil, and some just in air. Read the printing on the label to find out which. Or, when

Boring out doesn't work on all of the 3" chucks it can destroy the drive pinions on some Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________

I bored out my 3 inch chuck to a tad over 0.750 so I could pass that size stock through. Not hard to do, but you must disassemble the chuck to clean out the chips. John

Hi Bob the spindle pass through on the 7x lathes is actually quite generous, many similar size lathes have less or none. It is comparable to that on the larger 9x18 or 2o" bed hobby lathes considered

I did wonder what Stefan meant by this, many folk refer to them as knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily

Hi Stefan, This is the original part: < http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1543&category= >. As you can see, it is a standard M5 socket capscrew, with a threaded section

Mike, Drill is not the same as cold rolled steel. Drill rod is a high carbon steel capable of being hardened by heat treating. It usually is available in three foot lengths and is designated as O-1

Drill rod can be hardened, you buy it in various grades such as O-1 (oil hardening) or W-1 (water hardening). It's decent but not super precision tolerance. Good deal for the low cost. Note, you don't

Is drill rod just basically cold rolled steel that's made to better tolerances? Is it easy to drill and tap like cold rolled steel is? It's not drill bit blanks to make drill bits from right? Thanks!

I have a RB also and agree with Mert I also think that they are a little better built and they have oil ports on the LS tailstock and saddle and the motor is more powerful than the most basic Sieg The

I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered