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The trick I learned is to never clean the cutting oil (I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil) off the lathe. I smear it around when I brush off the chips. Then, I keep the lathe covered with the brown cardboard

All you really need is a good roof and just enough heat to raise the internal temperature above ambient for most moist areas. We use small heaters or 150 watt lights to preserve electrical equipment

wrote: Yes you are... I use both Mil-Spec CLP slathered all over exposed surfaces as well as LPS #3. Also, if you can do it and afford it insulate and heat the shed.

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe and a

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe and a

I have the one from LMS. It works well. Be sure to order the adapter plate and studs for it. You'll see those items in a reminder at the bottom of the chuck page. Nice thing about LMS is that Chris is

Sold, 4"-4 Jaw independent must be the way to go. Most of what I am turning is round stock up to 10 inches long. And I need it as tight and accurate as possible. I think when I'm ready to step up to a

Here's a link to the Reference section of the mini-lathe.com links page. There are many useful links there, including the ones to the Army manuals. http://www.mini-lathe.com/Links.htm#Reference Frank

4 jaw scroll chucks are of limited use. They can hold round, square & octagonal stock; the 3 jaw can hold round & hexagonal stock. Since most common threaded fasteners are hexagonal or have hex heads,

Roy, I knew of the Army one, it's not just for reserves(USAR), but the MSU site is great. Jerry

Jerry, Here's a direct link to the USAR manual: http://155.217.58.58/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-524/toc.htm Here's the University of Michigan digital collection; "Modern Machine Shop Practice" vols 1&2 &

I don't think hexagons will work to well in the 4 jaw. Maybe octagons. Tom square

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<The 3-jaw chuck is more convenient for most work due to the time savings of its self-centering feature. The 4 jaw is an almost essential accessory for precise centering, off-center work

I took the face plate that I bought from HF, laid the chuck on it, and found where I had to mill new slots. So half and hour later, I was up and running with the 5 inch chuck. Hope this helps, Jerry

A couple of notes: 1. this chuck will not give you the versatility of an independent 4 jaw which imnsho is much more valuable than having a somewhat larger self-centering chuck (be it 3 jaw, 4 jaw or

Thanks Frank and Jerry, The HF 4"-4 Jaw chuck I was refering to P/N# 47461 for 59.99 self centering. Has anyone used that one? I thought about the 5" and read up on it on mini-lathe.com. Still

The 3-jaw chuck is more convenient for most work due to the time savings of its self-centering feature. The 4 jaw is an almost essential accessory for precise centering, off-center work and holding

I bought the 5 inch 3 jawed chuck for my HF 7 x 10 and found it to be extremely useful. I do a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck and the 3 inch 3 jaw that came with the lathe. The 5 inch works great for me. I paid

I am looking to purchase a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck for my Homier. LMS has one for 69.00 and it is a independently adj., HF has one for 59.00 self centering. Any suggestions? I've already bought the adapter

lecompte126 wrote: Some small boring bars use 1/8" bits. I got one from Grizzly that required them. Regards Bob