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Aw shucks... why didn't I think of that? That dead center was probably grinning at me all along! Thanks * REPLY SEPARATOR * -- Regards, Rich

Not sure if this is of any help: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Accessories/Layout/layout.htm#hgage http://chemlearn.chem.indiana.edu/c121/C121L01.pdf Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com ---

Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews. The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch with the calibrated wheels having 40

<<<<<<<<The idea of scrap yard material isn't a bad one. Let me know if you find a good cheap source. >>>>>> i use local scrapyards all the time, our local one always has plenty of brass and aluminium

There's some comparisons here: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Versions/Versions.htm Some of the confusion about bed length may come from the tailstock not being able to seat a standard dead

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center, it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest

I bought one a couple of months ago. It works very well. The digital readout has been very handy and their cam-lock tailstock is great. I certainly would recommend one.

There is something to be said for a large tool bit (1/2" in our case) clamped to the top slide in the British style with a rocker style clamp and a stack of shims on the other side! Room and rigidity.

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost. The

For external threads, Fowler (IIRC), makes a micrometer attachment consisting of 2 triangular prisms with little elastic thingies that hold them to the micrometer spindle & anvil. Each prism has 3

What I see as the problem with the razor blade idea is that it is dependent on the shape of the tip of the tool cutting the thread. Any wear and you are getting off in diameter. And if you were

shipped. Not a big there is interest. eric please let me know what you learn mike

<bwmsbldr@j...> wrote: to yes thread wires will work but i am looking for something simpler for the thread I'm cutting, 9/16 12, shoving in the blade parts of the caliper gives a number of about .475

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00 shipped. Not a big investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if there is interest. --Eric Part # 82771 DIAMOND

My first stop, however, out of stock :(

< Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing offered for sale or do I need to make it? > Thread wires? Bill in

<rralbers@j...> wrote: wrote: that threads Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving. A remaining issue is

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something that looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-) Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision of single-point cut

Beware the Little Machine Shop knurling tool. They are a great supplier and offer many quality items but the knurling tool is not one of them. I purchased one several months ago. I recently had

thanks everyone for helping i finally cut some respectable threads today mike aita