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It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're hardened;

You can shim under the toolbit itself. Feeler gauges are a convenient thing to use, since you can adjust to within a .001 pretty easily. Go to www.sears.com and type this part number into the search

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a

John, Very clever arrangement, I like it. As you say there is an upside and downside. Upside is, quickly put in place with little in parts ... except the QCTP. Using the compound on a slotted angle

Hi Clay, I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my lathe with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this allows a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of

Clay, I agree with the other two responses. However, while I would not purchase a milling attachment, you may wish to try the Varmint Al homemade approach as an exercise. And to keep the cost of the

Clay The mill/drill being offered by Homier might be an alternative, it is 199.00 which is only 70.00 than the attachment and will do a lot more work Clint

Clay, I've travelled the same road you are embarking on. I've milled on my 7x12 and on a Burke horizontal miller I bought last fall. I used the Taig milling attachment on my 7x12. You can get it for

Thank You, Paul G http://furyflyer.tripod.com www.cnczone.com

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten

Neil, I don't know if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here are a couple of URLs that define symbols and standards. http://www.lanl.gov/orgs/f/f6/pubf6stds/drftman/drft_symbols.html

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online tutorial/reference of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done any of this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish

This answers some of the questions, like line styles, etc. That leaves finish marks as the biggest open question. Thanks, -Neil.

Here's a pretty comprehensive article on parting: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ShopTools_2/files/Lathe% 20tooling/Parting%20Off/ Roy said,even soon as model rotary have fed as anyone explain,

russlbowen1958 wrote: BTW, your initial post implied you have some experience with large lathes. You can make the 7x12 work. I have had fair success at this with absolutely no prior experience and

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., franksjoy@a... wrote: Can anyone explain, > technically, why parting is so difficult? > Max > This isn't the technical explanation, but from what I understand

<moldproducts@a...>" <moldproducts@a...> wrote: Absolutely, and cannot be correctly without considerable airfares - shudder!. This observation is rather like a Hundai vs BMW comparison; fit, finish,

Al, I like your idea of turning the lathe manually. I have been wanting to make a crank arrangement for threading manually, but had not thought of using the same method for parting off. Craig

Sometimes, though, a nice finish cut is needed and the work has no place to clamp in the chuck for a finish facing cut, or may be marred by the chuck (although brass shims may be used in this case).

I have experienced all the problems with parting and, as one member said,even turned the chuck by hand. With my 7X14 the circuit breaker trips as soon as the tool hogs. I'm attempting to make a small