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Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info. The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the

Hi John, It would probably cause a bit of a furore at airport security, too. Anyway, I've got a Warco-badged Wiess lathe, which according to the Warco specs has a 0.75" spindle bore. Out of curiosity,

G'day Tony & Ed. "Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?" My preference is for the meter to go in the + side of the circuit so as not to risk bypassing the current limit resistor (Horse

wrote: them travel to the UK all on its own! Hi Andy, I guess that rules out a trip to Oz? Well, it's not been on my must-do list. But if I can't have it, suddenly I want it! John

Yes, that's got to be right, Roy. I was just thinking aloud. Enlarging the calibre of my spindle isn't on my project list, though if it was, I doubt if the official Guardian of the Reamers would let

Thanks for that Andrew, It's not the one I used years back which went milky-white with water. The EP690 apparently goes translucent blue. Is that your recollection? But if it works and is available...

The meter can go anywhere in the circuit, if you hook the + - up backwards, you'll just get a negative reading. If someone is planning on using digital meters, check the specs. Most of them don't like

Going to the Castrol site and looking through the descriptions, I think that Clearedge EP690 is the brew I encountered at the TAFE college. Cheers, Andrew.

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I

Guys: HF Micro Mill motor, 1.8 amps 110 volts or 198 watts. Board is a 150 watt board current limit 1.4 amps, 76% Motor is billed as a 1/5th hp motor, 150 watts, that fits for full load current. Real

Thanks again, Ian. The motor is labeled DC120V, 3A, 400W. The wiring should be simple. The manual shows the #2 wire as + DC Out and it's a screw terminal. I'll order a meter (and a few other parts

You'd actually be better off with a suitably large conventional boring bar. A regular boring bar will ensure that the spindle bore is concentric with the axis of rotation. As a generality, the

In addition to setting the compound gib screws tight, position it so it's full supported, use the cross slide to advance the tool. If you change to a "T" shaped parting tool, you'll get better

G'day Ed. UNPLUG THE LATHE FROM THE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THE CONTROL BOX! Putting the meter between the reversing switch and the motor means the current reverses and the meter needle will be

Thanks, Ian, for the explanation. I get a catalog from allectronics.com. They have AC and DC meters in various ranges for $12 each. I pulled my electronics and it looks like it'd be easy to add a

G'day Keith "Did I leap before I looked when buying this brand???" From the other side of the world I'd say it depends on the colour! One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian wrote: I lathe

G'day Ren. I have looked at other's posts and what they say is true but may not have answered your problem. I read that you are seeing flexing of the compound and tool post structure. Having the gibs

John, Still in the trade with 30+ years and counting, high end diamond custom to fashion on the resume. I was presented with the possibility of self employment 7 years ago when my last employer sold

Are you using a QCTP? If so, be sure it's locked down tight. If not, the tools will flex slightly, and they tend to flex down, in reaction to the turning workpiece.

G'day Ed. I respect your wish to "stay away" from the motor wiring" but is no bigger issue than wiring into the ac side. I used a dc meter because that was available directly from an electronics