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John wrote.....When I asked where they'd hidden the thread cutting taps (I couldn't find them in the self serve settup) they called the rep from plumbing. I started for the door before I had to

Hi Vikki, wrote: Eureka! Great feeling when a broken tap is sorted! alum :-). Oh yes there will. That's unless you're about to quit and sell up your shop! But with more experience you should go

G'day Gavin. I bought my lathe from Taig Machinery P/L in Canberra. A complete package including steadies, 4 jaw chuck, TS chuck etc was available for AUD920. Freight to Adelaide was AUD75. Roger of

G'day John. My lathe does look like that, sans guards. I do have a chuck guard but it has the pivot point raised to clear the 90mm swing. Regarding your other question, there is so much other mess on

Hi Folks, Well, I did get the broken tap out! Since I had to bore out the holder more, it had to go. Was going to drill all around it with small drills, that did not work out well with the tiny

hi John, That image is slightly out-of-date as all their mini-lathes come with a tailstock lever lock as standard - with a handle that curves over the tailstock and is a breeze to operate. Hugh

Hi Folks, Got it together and almost calibrated tonight: http://wrlabs.shacknet.nu/~vw/MyMachineShop/ Under temporary working stuff - First entry: first prototype. Initial results are encouraging!

Thanks for the comments. Perhaps that explains why I had to move the table a bit after drilling to get the tap to line up, not much, but enough to notice. I suspect that if I had spun it with the

I have a set of those Kobalt taps, and a set of Hanson taps from Home Depot. The Hanson taps are much better quality IMHO. They seem to be sharper and harder. They cut more easily. Also, some of the

In case anybody's been wondering, I've been offline since I packed my computer away on March 22nd to move. Now it's set up again, but my in-box has 1600-odd messages, so if anyone sent me an e-mail

I wrote a long instructional on this some years ago, which is posted on the mini-lathe site at http://www.mini-lathe.com/Lapping/mt_lap.htm If I were doing it again, I'd use a coarser abrasive, such

Thanks for the pointer, checked that earlier and the pix was missing, but I get the idea, I think that is the purpose that the drill chuck is serving for here. Once I get some bigger aluminum rod, I

:-) Nice feeling! Being able to re-do something complex does indeed have a lot of benefits :)! These are just for adjusting screws and don't need much power, it would be pretty easy to crush that

LOL, already doing that :-/. Got tight for time while I was out today and decided to just use my little PCB drills to get it out since I have to bore it out more anyway. I'll keep them, but I sure

Exactly what happened here. I picked up a couple more of those today: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=232566-1083-358001 Not sure, but I suspect these are not really all

a great resource is google books (be sure to check the full view books button) like these http://books.google.com/books?ie=ISO-8859-1&q=+Lathe&btnG=Search+Books&as_brr=1

Hi Ian, Is this your beastie at www.realbull-machine.com/images/CJ0618.jpg <http://www.realbull-machine.com/images/CJ0618.jpg> ? I assume those plastic guards are a later addition. They do look more

Hi again, I just had a reply from Doug who sells EDM books via that (broken) link below. He's still in business but his ISP has had his site down for a few days and he's spitting chips over it. So if

Hi, I stayed clear of using acide on a steel job but I guess if you use it strong enough that the job doesn't take days then you can keep an eye on progress and stop it before it destroys everything.

Hi Mark, Nice concept but I'm pretty sure my tap was too brittle hard for that. When it initially broke it left a stump protruding. It crumbled like glass when I tried to grip it. It actually broke on