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Hi, Roy. That is a good point. I had thought of recommending Helicoils, but the expense of the special taps and insertion tools seemed somewhat prohibitive at our level. Used many a Helicoil myself to

G'day Jim. Have you found that the fuse protects the FETs or SCRs if there is a short circuit on the motor side? In my experince on large drives I found that the energy let through of a standard fuse

G'day John. You've given me an idea how to machine the tool holder and the packer. I need to think about what radius is required and whether the lathe could cut it. If the concavity in the tool holder

Garry, check that you didn't trap a wire somewhere when you screwed the casings etc back together, cutting through its insulation and creating a short circuit. I speak from personal experience! Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...> wrote: > > On Saturday 31 March 2007, steam4ian wrote: > > Thanks Vikki. > > Good sleuthing. In that it fits the 7x14 it should fit

Ian wrote.......Has anybody made, bought or used a rocking shim in the tool post?....... I have used them in the past. The main problem is you need to allow for the 'rock' when grinding the tool

Hi Vikki, That rocker post you linked looks like something you could make out of your old stock toolpost. Just whack it on the faceplate and cut those rocker depressions in the lower tool ledge using

Hi Ian, Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense

You have either misconnected something on the board, or cause a short. the most common cause of blowing fuses is either the bridge rectifier or the pot shorting out on the fuse-holder. Check the

Hi, I just picked up a Cummins mini lathe and was wondering if there is any resource out there that can tell me what speeds to run for diff materials....I mostly play with Stainless Steel and not sure

I'm not 100% sure that post fits the 7x stuff, but it seems a safe assumption, I think :-). Does not sound good to me, I'd avoid anything like that unless I was just doing balsa :). I think that would

Thanks Vikki. Good sleuthing. In that it fits the 7x14 it should fit the 7x12. That tool post is really good because the bottom of the tool slot is cupped to match the curved packer, the tool and

The one I was considering (still am :) is this one: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82689 Seems like it should be solid enough. I like my

G'day all. Not wanting to rain on Rance's parade I have started a new topic. Has anybody made, bought or used a rocking shim in the tool post? The idea is that the bottom of the shim has a slight

The other day I put a dial indicator in a spare toolholder for my QCTP, set it on centreline of my lathe, and left it on the shelf. Tonight I had to do some stuff using the 4 jaw chuck, the job was

A common method of making strong threaded holes in aluminum is with Helicoils. If you're not familiar with them, they're spring looking objects, wound from trapezoidal wire, usually stainless steel.

Rance, as a machinist, even a hobby machinist, you do start to look at things differently. It sometimes is a curse. When my eyesight was better, I saw every crooked picture on a wall, and noticed

Well dooooooooh! 8) I have a lathe now. What was I thinking. I'm gonna have to change my mindset. I could easily make my own steel inserts now, right? :D That's one of the reasons I got this thing, so

<miket--nyc@...> wrote:

Thanks Ron. So how about using threaded inserts in an aluminum block? First downside I see with an insert it creates an additional place for possible lost rigidity. I've seen Pem Nuts for 6-32 screws