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Thanks Ron. So how about using threaded inserts in an aluminum block? First downside I see with an insert it creates an additional place for possible lost rigidity. I've seen Pem Nuts for 6-32 screws

Hi, Rance. Aluminum (aluminium) is strong, but it has been my experience that threaded holes are easily stripped or deformed with twisting motions. Steel would probably be best. As for the stability,

If you are more interested in having the parts you describe instead of learning and playing with a lathe, you might do well to consider www.emachineshop.com. They have a small software program to

Thanks Ron, and to Clint for posting the pics. I went to the local scrap yard (for the 1st time) and found a plethora of alum. scraps. I got 2' of 1.5" bar stock and a 6"x1" square plate for starters.

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?1 so if that is all that is wrong I shall have saved ?84 !! Thanks for your interest and support. Ian

Comparatively I was lucky, all I had was a goopy pile in the tailstock and some spatter on the drill press table! Next time I will remember that. One has to be so careful about using fluids around

Duhhh, I clean up the lathe when I do magnetic stuff with a magnet in a sandwich baggie turned inside out, just turn it rightside out, seal and toss. Why didn't I think of that here? Sometimes we're

Hi Ian, You referenced the 2 locknuts on the compound feed when you were talking about the locking grub screw in the end of your leed screw last week. I was mystified but figured I understood the

G'day all. My machine may be a Real Bull, which may explain many of my posts! More variations. The RBM machine (probably mine) has two lock nuts on the compound feed screw to provide adjustment of the

Hi all, I have the 7x14 Mini Lathe with the digital readout. I had cause to change over to the metal gears and put new bearings in as well. My big question is now that I have it all back together the

G'day John. I believe you may be right. Thank you for your prompt response. Real Bull Machinery have a functioning web site. They have variations on the 7x12 including a CNC version. They also have

G'day Nicipi. I'm glad you are still with us. Your tolerances seem more generaous than implied by your initial description. Regarding the video/DVD. I am sure links from minilathe.com will find

Older Homier and Cummins used 4 mm keyways. Rabid Uncle Rabid ( http://www.unclerabid.com ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the

G'day all. I recently told you of my testing of the leadscrew mechincal fuse, it works!. Yes, I damaged the 80T gear. Thankfully it is not beyond recovery, so that it is now in the tuit basket. I had

Hi Nicipi, I'm certainly not an expert. I'm only a bit more advanced then you are. It sounds like what you want to do should be well within the capabilities of the lathe. It might take you several

Ron That is actually Rance's tool post mods, I just uploaded the pix for him. so, Rance gets the credit, no matter how much I would love to receive it 8-) Clint Ronald Durbin wrote:

First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you guys have added a lot to my sense of what's involved in this endeavor. I should at least clarify my tolerances. The wall thickness

It's well within the lathe's capabilities. The tricky part is going to be working with the thin wall without tearing or distorting the piece. Since it's only 1" long, I'd make it in one chucking,

I believe your lathe is by Real Bull and not Seig. Later..........John *** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

G'day nicipi. You have some sound adice from Mike & John. The limitation to what you want to do will be the strength of the material and your skill. I take it by your question that you may not have